New to MTB, got a C’dale Catalyst
07-16-18, 05:21 AM
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New to MTB, got a C’dale Catalyst
Hi, I usually lurk in the C&V and Gravel Bike forums but have a “friend” that is trying to get me in to MTB. He gave me his old bike which is a Cannondale Catalyst (1, I think).
I’ve been out for a couple rides and really enjoyed it.
Also have learned a bit about the Catalyst and looking for advice.
the bike obviously has shortcomings, and I don’t want to over spend on it, but I’d like to at least upgrade the forks and tires. The fork is a straight steerer, which seems to be tough to locate used.
Is the frame worth the upgrade? It seems well made, but given I’ve had no experience on any other current day mtb, I’d like to know what the consensus here thinks.
The good about the bike: low mile, price was right, hydraulic discs, looks good (to me).
The bad: fork, tires (by my evaluation).
Also, I found myself riding yesterday set to the middle chain ring (although the rear is only 8x). I feel like it could be an easy swap to 1 x 10, advice on that?
I’ve been out for a couple rides and really enjoyed it.
Also have learned a bit about the Catalyst and looking for advice.
the bike obviously has shortcomings, and I don’t want to over spend on it, but I’d like to at least upgrade the forks and tires. The fork is a straight steerer, which seems to be tough to locate used.
Is the frame worth the upgrade? It seems well made, but given I’ve had no experience on any other current day mtb, I’d like to know what the consensus here thinks.
The good about the bike: low mile, price was right, hydraulic discs, looks good (to me).
The bad: fork, tires (by my evaluation).
Also, I found myself riding yesterday set to the middle chain ring (although the rear is only 8x). I feel like it could be an easy swap to 1 x 10, advice on that?
07-16-18, 08:57 AM
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All the money you want to spend "upgrading" could have been spent on a bike with better tires and fork and 1x in the first place.
This concept seems to escape many people...
This concept seems to escape many people...
07-16-18, 10:55 AM
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I have $0 invested so far. If used forks cost me $200, tires $100, derailleur and cassette $100, do I have a $400 bike or less than that?
07-16-18, 12:52 PM
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OK. I missed the part where your friend gave you the bike.
The Fork you can get a Rockshox 30 Silver TK for $200 or less new and it's much better than the Suntour. Tires and 1x conversion...Easy peasy. You might have $500 invested by the time it's all done.
The Fork you can get a Rockshox 30 Silver TK for $200 or less new and it's much better than the Suntour. Tires and 1x conversion...Easy peasy. You might have $500 invested by the time it's all done.
07-17-18, 08:52 AM
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Tires... definitely. Good tires are always worth it, and tires are generally way under-speced on all but the most expensive bikes, IMO.
The 3x8 to 1x10 conversion is not worth it, IMO. At least not until you KNOW you are keeping this bike long term. You will need a new shifter, cassette, rear deraileur, chain and chainring, and most likely new shifter cable.
However, I am a big fan of doing 3x to 2x conversions (replacing the big ring with a bash ring). Very cheap, (as in under $25) and you do gain real benefits in my expereince. Heck, you could go 1x8 for under $50. If interested I will give more details.
The fork is a tough one. Personally, I would look for an old 26" Rockshox Reba or Tora 318. Stupid easy to rebuild and maintain, and rock solid performers. As long as the bushings are not worn (which takes a LOT of riding to do) they can be easily rebuilt to be like new.
The 3x8 to 1x10 conversion is not worth it, IMO. At least not until you KNOW you are keeping this bike long term. You will need a new shifter, cassette, rear deraileur, chain and chainring, and most likely new shifter cable.
However, I am a big fan of doing 3x to 2x conversions (replacing the big ring with a bash ring). Very cheap, (as in under $25) and you do gain real benefits in my expereince. Heck, you could go 1x8 for under $50. If interested I will give more details.
The fork is a tough one. Personally, I would look for an old 26" Rockshox Reba or Tora 318. Stupid easy to rebuild and maintain, and rock solid performers. As long as the bushings are not worn (which takes a LOT of riding to do) they can be easily rebuilt to be like new.
07-17-18, 09:02 AM
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Tires... definitely. Good tires are always worth it, and tires are generally way under-speced on all but the most expensive bikes, IMO.
The 3x8 to 1x10 conversion is not worth it, IMO. At least not until you KNOW you are keeping this bike long term. You will need a new shifter, cassette, rear deraileur, chain and chainring, and most likely new shifter cable.
However, I am a big fan of doing 3x to 2x conversions (replacing the big ring with a bash ring). Very cheap, (as in under $25) and you do gain real benefits in my expereince. Heck, you could go 1x8 for under $50. If interested I will give more details.
The fork is a tough one. Personally, I would look for an old 26" Rockshox Reba or Tora 318. Stupid easy to rebuild and maintain, and rock solid performers. As long as the bushings are not worn (which takes a LOT of riding to do) they can be easily rebuilt to be like new.
The 3x8 to 1x10 conversion is not worth it, IMO. At least not until you KNOW you are keeping this bike long term. You will need a new shifter, cassette, rear deraileur, chain and chainring, and most likely new shifter cable.
However, I am a big fan of doing 3x to 2x conversions (replacing the big ring with a bash ring). Very cheap, (as in under $25) and you do gain real benefits in my expereince. Heck, you could go 1x8 for under $50. If interested I will give more details.
The fork is a tough one. Personally, I would look for an old 26" Rockshox Reba or Tora 318. Stupid easy to rebuild and maintain, and rock solid performers. As long as the bushings are not worn (which takes a LOT of riding to do) they can be easily rebuilt to be like new.
Tell me more about 2x or 1x8 conversions (we can go dm if that's easier).
Also, what about the 26" shock? Would I need to change wheels to 26"?
I want to keep the costs low on this bike, but want an improvement and not willing to buy a new bike right now. I know, I know, cake and eat it, right?
07-17-18, 09:37 AM
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Honestly, I would just leave it 3x8. I don't think this bike is worth the cost of going 1x10.
Also, what about the 26" shock? Would I need to change wheels to 26"?
Sorry, I am really not doing very well in the advice department in this thread.
Last edited by Kapusta; 07-17-18 at 09:41 AM.
07-18-18, 06:42 AM
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IMHO it would be worth a fork and tires. Great color on the frame.
I think you should be able to find a new Rockshox Recon with straight steerer - probably closer to $300
Tires - Maxxis Ardent Race, Schwalbe Nobby Nic or WTB Ranger are all good choices
For the 1x conversion you will need crankset, bottom bracket, chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Not outside the realm of possibility/expense but need some special tools to get the current parts off and different tools to put the new ones on.
Are you doing all the work yourself? If not, installation will also cost some money.
I think you should be able to find a new Rockshox Recon with straight steerer - probably closer to $300
Tires - Maxxis Ardent Race, Schwalbe Nobby Nic or WTB Ranger are all good choices
For the 1x conversion you will need crankset, bottom bracket, chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Not outside the realm of possibility/expense but need some special tools to get the current parts off and different tools to put the new ones on.
Are you doing all the work yourself? If not, installation will also cost some money.
07-18-18, 07:09 AM
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What's wrong with the 3x? If it works, use it. Ride the bike, worry about changing stuff later. It is a never ending cycle (no pun intended).
Last edited by u235; 07-18-18 at 07:12 AM.
07-18-18, 04:27 PM
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IMHO it would be worth a fork and tires. Great color on the frame.
I think you should be able to find a new Rockshox Recon with straight steerer - probably closer to $300
Tires - Maxxis Ardent Race, Schwalbe Nobby Nic or WTB Ranger are all good choices
For the 1x conversion you will need crankset, bottom bracket, chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Not outside the realm of possibility/expense but need some special tools to get the current parts off and different tools to put the new ones on.
Are you doing all the work yourself? If not, installation will also cost some money.
I think you should be able to find a new Rockshox Recon with straight steerer - probably closer to $300
Tires - Maxxis Ardent Race, Schwalbe Nobby Nic or WTB Ranger are all good choices
For the 1x conversion you will need crankset, bottom bracket, chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Not outside the realm of possibility/expense but need some special tools to get the current parts off and different tools to put the new ones on.
Are you doing all the work yourself? If not, installation will also cost some money.
I’d do the work myself unless mtb’s needs special tools...
thanks for the feedback. I found a set of lightly used Nobby Nic’s for a good price.
07-18-18, 04:31 PM
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Yeah, for sure. I’ll take my time but want to know if the frame is worth any investment at all. Build quality looks good, but I don’t know anything about it really. Also geometry is a mystery to me.
07-24-18, 06:37 AM
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Are the tires dry rotted, or badly worn? Does the fork clunk or feel loose like it is going to break? After a few rides, I doubt you are hitting any limitations of the components on that bike, unless things feel unsafe.
Any issues you have after only a few rides are caused by lack of experience. Standing and picking good lines thru rough patches and turns, proper weight balance, etc. What kind of riding are you doing (singletrack, fire roads, ski-lift-assisted downhill)? Any idea about average speed (Strava, ridewithGPS etc)?
Tire pressure is important on a MTB. Your fork should have some amount of tuning capability either via knobs on the top and/or bottom and possibly (hopefully) air. If it has a schraeder air valve, you need a special pump. Don't use a tire pump, it won't work right.
I admit, the fork does look like the first thing to upgrade. But I also don't think you will get any sort of night and day improvement. I'd wait until the right deal comes along on a fork, but not be in any particular rush. And jump on those Nobby Nics if you want them.
Moving to 1x10 would be a waste of money. Its nice if your next bike has it, but it is not worth the upgrade.
Any issues you have after only a few rides are caused by lack of experience. Standing and picking good lines thru rough patches and turns, proper weight balance, etc. What kind of riding are you doing (singletrack, fire roads, ski-lift-assisted downhill)? Any idea about average speed (Strava, ridewithGPS etc)?
Tire pressure is important on a MTB. Your fork should have some amount of tuning capability either via knobs on the top and/or bottom and possibly (hopefully) air. If it has a schraeder air valve, you need a special pump. Don't use a tire pump, it won't work right.
I admit, the fork does look like the first thing to upgrade. But I also don't think you will get any sort of night and day improvement. I'd wait until the right deal comes along on a fork, but not be in any particular rush. And jump on those Nobby Nics if you want them.
Moving to 1x10 would be a waste of money. Its nice if your next bike has it, but it is not worth the upgrade.
07-26-18, 08:30 PM
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Thanks for the feedback.
While I am fairly new to MTB, I have spent most of my life on two wheeled machines. BMX, dirt motorcycles, mountain bikes in the late 80s, road motorcycles, road bicycles, and many things in between.
What has stood out to me is that proper tires and suspension are (arguably) the two most important features on two (and 4) wheeled vehicles.
What I observed while riding the Catalyst is that the fork is soft. It clunked frequently (on the up stroke as I remember) and just felt like it struggled under my 220lbs.
The tires seemed a little under inflated when I rode it (maybe my weight issue) but I figured that should improve traction. What I actually found was I spun out frequently. Maybe a skill issue, as suggested.
My intent is to go slowly and not invest much. If the frame is worthy and I can justify costs being less than a different used bike, I’ll wrench on it (because I like to do that). Used parts only.
Just was wondering if the base was worth the effort. Again, know nothing about geometry. My riding style is trail oriented. Some single track, some “Jeep road” type stuff.
Thanks.
While I am fairly new to MTB, I have spent most of my life on two wheeled machines. BMX, dirt motorcycles, mountain bikes in the late 80s, road motorcycles, road bicycles, and many things in between.
What has stood out to me is that proper tires and suspension are (arguably) the two most important features on two (and 4) wheeled vehicles.
What I observed while riding the Catalyst is that the fork is soft. It clunked frequently (on the up stroke as I remember) and just felt like it struggled under my 220lbs.
The tires seemed a little under inflated when I rode it (maybe my weight issue) but I figured that should improve traction. What I actually found was I spun out frequently. Maybe a skill issue, as suggested.
My intent is to go slowly and not invest much. If the frame is worthy and I can justify costs being less than a different used bike, I’ll wrench on it (because I like to do that). Used parts only.
Just was wondering if the base was worth the effort. Again, know nothing about geometry. My riding style is trail oriented. Some single track, some “Jeep road” type stuff.
Thanks.
07-28-18, 02:13 PM
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Cannondale Experts is great as a resource for parts. In fact, they're often more knowledgeable than the C'Dale customer service folks. This is just based
on my own experience working with both parties.
on my own experience working with both parties.
