What gear ranges do you guys have on your cassettes?
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What gear ranges do you guys have on your cassettes?
I'm looking at getting this cassette(or similar) for a new wheel. I just don't know what range to get.
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? I tour primarily around the midwest, and this is also my commuter bike. But I don't want to limit myself for the future but not having a low enough ratio for mountains.
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? I tour primarily around the midwest, and this is also my commuter bike. But I don't want to limit myself for the future but not having a low enough ratio for mountains.
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Floyd what cassette is on your current wheel? I would not duplicate it, but try something else for some variety. Your drive train should tolerate a bit of deviation. But, others will be better suited to help with derailers by factory numbers, etc. than I.
Friction shifters don't see the ratio difference, only cable travel (8 speed). The rear derailer is sensitive to the spread.
Hope this helps.
-Snuts-
Friction shifters don't see the ratio difference, only cable travel (8 speed). The rear derailer is sensitive to the spread.
Hope this helps.
-Snuts-
#3
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14-34 on a 9-speed, with a 26/36/46 up front. Works great for me!
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What are the chainrings on the triple?
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I just don't know what range to get.
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? .
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? .
Having a triple crank could mean a low ring of 30 down to 24, typically. If you currently have a 30t with 11-28 rear, thats a big ratio difference from a 24t with 11-32 rear.
I have an 11-32 9speed cassette mated to a 26t small ring. That works for everything ive ridden while loaded down so far. Admittedly, its been tough going a few times even in the 26-32 combo, but it works in the end.
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Depends on what's playing.
If its Zamfir you can hardly hear it at all but when I crank the ACDC connected to a sub woofer the range is phenomenal. Even had the cops come over because of a complaint once.
But now with digital the gears all earbuds and headphones so the range is pretty limited.
If its Zamfir you can hardly hear it at all but when I crank the ACDC connected to a sub woofer the range is phenomenal. Even had the cops come over because of a complaint once.
But now with digital the gears all earbuds and headphones so the range is pretty limited.
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I use a 11-34 on Surly Long Haul Trucker with friction shifters. I have no issues with "smoothness"' I find I quickly adjusted after the indexing failed and haven't bothered to go back.
#12
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floyd0117, The general recommendation of a 20-100 GI range for an expedition level touring bike has worked well for me. My primary touring bike ranges from just under 20 GI to 108 GI. While I have reduced my load, I've kept that gearing. The bottom and the top gears are the least used, but they're there, in reserve should I need or want them.
If need be, I will swap cassettes to tailor gearing to a specific route or role. An example of this could be that the bike is used for commuting on flat terrain making a 13-23T cassette a good choice.
To answer your question, I have 22-32-44T chain rings and an 8S 11-30T cassette.
Brad
If need be, I will swap cassettes to tailor gearing to a specific route or role. An example of this could be that the bike is used for commuting on flat terrain making a 13-23T cassette a good choice.
To answer your question, I have 22-32-44T chain rings and an 8S 11-30T cassette.
Brad
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I'm looking at getting this cassette(or similar) for a new wheel. I just don't know what range to get.
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? I tour primarily around the midwest, and this is also my commuter bike. But I don't want to limit myself for the future but not having a low enough ratio for mountains.
There is 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T. The 11-32 will provide a bigger range and a lower gear for loaded hills. But the 11-28 will likely have smoother shifting, especially since I use friction shifters. I have a triple crank as well, and I've probably only once found myself in the lowest ratio possible.
What would you do? I tour primarily around the midwest, and this is also my commuter bike. But I don't want to limit myself for the future but not having a low enough ratio for mountains.
I did sacrifice top end speed since my highest gear is barely 98 gear inches, but when touring or commuting, speed is not a priority for me. That's what a lightweight road bike is for.
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I have 3 different cassettes for my touring bicycle. It has 28/42 chainrings that don't get changed. But the cassettes are 15-25 for flat trails or putting around town. 12-28 midrange some hills but not too tough. And the cassette the bicycle came with 11-36.
I like Bradtx's comment about 20-100 inch gear. Personally I don't see much need for anything over about 90 inch gear on a touring bicycle.
It really doesn't take much time to change a cassette. Different tires also. 35s on now. came with 2" , tried 32s, didn't like them seemed a bit harsh.
I like Bradtx's comment about 20-100 inch gear. Personally I don't see much need for anything over about 90 inch gear on a touring bicycle.
It really doesn't take much time to change a cassette. Different tires also. 35s on now. came with 2" , tried 32s, didn't like them seemed a bit harsh.
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#17
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Like the 9 spd 12-36 cassette best. The 520's chain rings are 28 and 39, I know it may be odd- works well for me.
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9 Speed 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34 cassette with 24-36-48 chainrings. I will say I rarely use my 24t chainring these days but I haven't actually had a good chance to do a tour of much substance. I don't think I will change from my triple but never say never.
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44-32-22 up front, 12-36 cassette in back, downtube friction shifters, 1989-spec Suntour XCE front and rear derailleurs. Absolutely no problems shifting at all. If I'm recalling right, the bike started life with a 5 speed freewheel, since then I have gone to 7 and 8 speeds with no problems and now I'm on a nine-speed to get that big 36 tooth sprocket.
Far from experiencing problems shifting through more speeds with friction shifters I have found that the more sprockets I have in back, the less "dead space" between gears there is. You soon learn how to modulate the shifter and the short cables inherent to downtube set-ups give excellent feedback. I expect I could go to ten speeds with these same same shifters if I needed.
"27-speed" or course is really 9 speeds on the middle chainring plus an extra-low (granny gear) and a never-used extra high (big chainring). Of those 9 speeds, 99% of the time you're on the same four or five gears.
Doesn't hurt to have a super-low (in my case 15 gear inches) in case you need it.
Mike
Far from experiencing problems shifting through more speeds with friction shifters I have found that the more sprockets I have in back, the less "dead space" between gears there is. You soon learn how to modulate the shifter and the short cables inherent to downtube set-ups give excellent feedback. I expect I could go to ten speeds with these same same shifters if I needed.
"27-speed" or course is really 9 speeds on the middle chainring plus an extra-low (granny gear) and a never-used extra high (big chainring). Of those 9 speeds, 99% of the time you're on the same four or five gears.
Doesn't hurt to have a super-low (in my case 15 gear inches) in case you need it.
Mike
#21
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16:38, 26" wheel
my well traveled derailleur touring bike was/is 13~ 34, (Freewheel) 50,40,24 t crank.
24" ultimate low gear.. get Off and Push, when needed, heart rate drops vs twiddling a tiny gear
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44-32-22 front
12-36 rear
26" mtb wheels.
Old knees need to go low.
12-36 rear
26" mtb wheels.
Old knees need to go low.
#23
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38/26T chain ring. Smaller than 26 won't clear the oversized BB shell.
10-42 cassette.
29er 700x35 rubber.
17-95ish gear inches.
10-42 cassette.
29er 700x35 rubber.
17-95ish gear inches.
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48-36-22 x 15-16-17-18-19-21-23-26-30-34.
16.8 - 83.2 GI. On 26"x2”.
I've traded range for smaller GI steps.
16.8 - 83.2 GI. On 26"x2”.
I've traded range for smaller GI steps.
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50-45-30 with a 11x36 rear 10 speed I need to find a 47 mid ring or a 48 big ring to get a true half step. 23.4 to 128 G.I.
52-42-30 with a 11x34 rear 9 speed, not sure I like this setup, might try and find a 48 big ring but right now it is 24.8 to 133 G.I.
52-42-30 with a 11x34 rear 9 speed, not sure I like this setup, might try and find a 48 big ring but right now it is 24.8 to 133 G.I.
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Last edited by bwilli88; 02-25-17 at 06:58 AM.