TreyWestgate

In my last post I mentioned how my aluminum mountain bike was getting some bubbly white patches and how if that was the end of it or not.

So since everyone believed that it could still last a good while more, I got this in the closest color I could to the original frame color.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-hammered-spray-paint

is this stuff any good on a bike?.

hope it will actually stay on the frame and protect it from more corrosion.

it says it will work on aluminum so that may be the best I can get that is affordable.

the real first question will be when will the horrible smell go away?!.

should I apply another layer later or will one do it?.

from a distance the bike looks better and not like it did before.

02Giant 

Preparation is the key to a successful paint job. The number of coats is related to how well each coat covers.

Western Flyer 

Rustoleum sells a clear coat which will give all your work a glossy finished look and help protect the paint.

Rollfast

I hope you sanded well, and you should have used their rust converting primer where needed first IMO. If that's what it is, fine.


Painting the handlebars and all was a bit cheap.

Road Fan

His frame is aluminum. Aluminum oxidizes, but it does not rust. Would the rust converter do any good?

I'm wondering it it was actually bare aluminum, or was there a factory coating of some sort that is actually what the Rustoleum is trying to adhere to?

MNBikeCommuter

I've been using Rustoleum on my '95 Cannondale hybrid for years. It's my winter bike and hence sees a lot of salt in Minnesota. When the bubbles appear, I just scrape them off and paint over them without a lot of frame prep. With a gloss black original paint job, Rustoleum's gloss black is a nice match. I apply the primer and black with a brush, not being too concerned about appearance. It's a working bike with 23k hard miles.

2cam16

Prep it good and the paint should hold. Take your time, don't rush your coats. Clear coat it at the end.

fietsbob

Air dried paint is never 'that' durable, a catalyst is part of the more durable stuff.

Rollfast

There you have it, aluminum in my life is for pop cans and light campers and trailers. Maybe the welds oxidize.

Gresp15C

Is there anything that a DIY'er can apply, e.g., from a rattle can?

02Giant 

There are 2k aerosol can products available. The can has two chambers one of contains the hardener that is released and mixed prior to use.

As an example; 2K Aero-Spray? Paints ? Aerosol Paints & Coatings - Eastwood

OldTryGuy

I switched to Krylon. Spray Paint | DIY, Craft & Professional Spray Paint Products | Krylon

duane041

These products work great, but if used, please remember to wear a mask and cover all of your skin. Most of the hardeners/catalysts in products like these contain isocyanates, which are attracted to moisture (i.e. YOU). Covering your hands, face and arms is very important, as is wearing a proper respirator.

On the plus side, they do work very well, and the clears can be polished out just like automotive clear coats.

jfowler85

Do a proper two or three stage job. Primer, paint, clear coat. The last two steps can be combined. The key is to use remove as much old paint as possible, and use numerous coats of etching primer with plenty of progressively finer sanding in between coats. After painting several old frames with many types of paint, including from a spray can, I can attest that hand painting with a 2/3 stage process is the most cost efficient, less messy, and gives great results.


If you're less concerned with quality then try rattle canning with art-quality cans.


To answer your question, yes the smell will eventually off-gas, and yes it is probably fine for the frame.

EnjoyinTheRide

Rustoleum works on everything....