Is anyone using cheap Microshift on a C&V?
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Is anyone using cheap Microshift on a C&V?
I am contemplating the next build, and the current plan is to use the Suntour Blue Line GT drivetrain I pulled from my touring bike. I have 14-32 six-speed in the back (18 tooth difference), and this will limit me, according to the specs for the long cage derailleur, to a 16-tooth difference up front (total of 34-tooth difference).
I like my 52-tooth ring up front, but that means the smallest I can go is 36-tooth. I have a 30-tooth ring I want to use despite the unfavorable math. Lots of hills where I live. Based on what I read, the front derailleur should handle the jump fine.
This is where Microshift comes in. I have been eyeing their cheap derailleurs and see that people consider them to be reliable and a good value. Has anyone used one of these (like, say, the M25 model) on a C&V build to get a wider tooth spread? It seems like it would be a simple swap, since I want to keep it friction, and that the only downsides are perhaps a little weight and the aesthetics. Am I missing anything?
I like my 52-tooth ring up front, but that means the smallest I can go is 36-tooth. I have a 30-tooth ring I want to use despite the unfavorable math. Lots of hills where I live. Based on what I read, the front derailleur should handle the jump fine.
This is where Microshift comes in. I have been eyeing their cheap derailleurs and see that people consider them to be reliable and a good value. Has anyone used one of these (like, say, the M25 model) on a C&V build to get a wider tooth spread? It seems like it would be a simple swap, since I want to keep it friction, and that the only downsides are perhaps a little weight and the aesthetics. Am I missing anything?
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Well, I haven't used any of it, BUT...I rode along with a guy on the Pasadena C&V ride a while back and he was using it with friction DT (might have been 7 speed but whatever) and it looked great. He had a mix of MS and Dia-Compe on a lugged Eroica bike of his own design and construction and was very happy with the whole package. I don't think there is anything cheap about it.
#3
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I don't know that derailleur, but Microshift stuff isn't necessarily cheap. They (allegedly) make the SunXCD and IRD derailleurs.
I currently have Centos derailleurs on my restomod PX10. Those are made very well and they work very well. They don't really give up anything in weight or quality or aesthetics IMO. I think some of the cheaper models may be a bit on the heavy and crude side.
Microshift I feel is judged somewhat unfairly, much like Shimano was in the 70s.
I currently have Centos derailleurs on my restomod PX10. Those are made very well and they work very well. They don't really give up anything in weight or quality or aesthetics IMO. I think some of the cheaper models may be a bit on the heavy and crude side.
Microshift I feel is judged somewhat unfairly, much like Shimano was in the 70s.
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I haven't used one on a vintage bike, but my cyclocross race bike has a Gevenalle BURD (which as I understand it is based on a MicroShift-made RD that Gevenalle upgrades with a stiffer spring and better pulleys). That has been fantastic for me.
I think @gugie has an R47 on his Peter Weigle Raleigh Competition.
The M25 is pretty far down their hierarchy. I'm not sure what they've done to cut costs. It looks like some of the parts are plastic (bracket body, plate body, outer link), but others are steel. If they've chosen which parts to make plastic wisely (and I don't have any reason to think they haven't), it could be that it's perfectly functional and just heavy and ugly. I would be surprised if it doesn't work well.
I think @gugie has an R47 on his Peter Weigle Raleigh Competition.
The M25 is pretty far down their hierarchy. I'm not sure what they've done to cut costs. It looks like some of the parts are plastic (bracket body, plate body, outer link), but others are steel. If they've chosen which parts to make plastic wisely (and I don't have any reason to think they haven't), it could be that it's perfectly functional and just heavy and ugly. I would be surprised if it doesn't work well.
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@Andy_K has a better eye and memory than me! I knew it was a MicroShift...
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I haven't used the derailleurs, but I am using the 3x7 integrated shifters. I don't marvel at their sex appeal whenever I use them, but they work just fine and haven't had any problems.
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Good to know, thanks so much for your feedback, everyone. At this point, my only concern is tooth range, and it looks the M25 would suit my needs just fine. I've thought about an eventual upgrade to a full Microshift brifter group, but I first need to see if I like the frame, so I want to keep it within a very tight parts-bin budget for now.
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I installed Microshift levers on a coworkers old Kestrel just recently. He purchased the 9 speed double set, and is running with Dura Ace 7400 derailleurs. Works great so far, although I don't think he's ridden it much since I did the work...he's new to cycling. It was easy to set up, very similar to Shimano STI levers, and it has a good "feel" to it - doesn't feel like junk.
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My Velo Routier came with Microshift derailleurs, 10 speed friction. I used them on that bike until I sold the frame, then had them on my Katakura Silk 650b conversion until I sold that one too. Still have the mechs - the front is a typical FD. Dunno what else to say about it, but it works just fine. The RD is smooth and quick, and if you'd ever told me I'd be shifting 10 speed in friction I'd have told you to go fly a kite. BUT IT WORKS GREAT. My Jeff Lyon frame arrived from Oregon this afternoon, and my 650b kit - including the Microshift stuff - will be going on there. To your point: I'd personally recommend giving Microshift a try. I cannot say anything bad about them.
#10
Death fork? Naaaah!!
I'm running their 7-speed brifters on two different bikes and like 'em a lot; the double levers fall under my fingers just right when on the hoods.
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2x7 shifters here. Lowest level, but i like em a lot...and they dont say 'Tourney'.
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I'm running the Nashbar/microShift 9X2 integrated shifters with microShift RD and FD on my '93 Cannondale R600. It works exceptionally well and I'd never call it cheap--- just more affordable--- and thus a better buy than Shimano, SRAM, or Campagnolo. IMO, shifting is more similar to Campagnolo than to Shimano.
My setup runs a compact 50X34 and 11-34 cassette.
My setup runs a compact 50X34 and 11-34 cassette.
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I'm looking at a 10 speed Arsis group for dirt cheap. Does anyone know if it has trim adjustments on the front derailleur? I assume it does but I want to make sure.
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Careful, I had some trouble ordering "cheap" Microshift parts from Amazon
https://www.bikeforums.net/17631405-post55.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/17631405-post55.html
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I have built up and ran a bike with with the 7x2/3, with Shimano LX Dr's & crankset with mafac center pulls for a cheap brifter build on a older bike and it worked good.
Last edited by zukahn1; 06-23-17 at 07:31 PM.
#18
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I've got 9X2 microshift on my Centurion Ironman, which I like, and have ordered 7X3 for my Miyata 1000.
#19
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Let us know how the 3x7 works out. Both triple brifters I've ordered were really doubles.
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I used a Microshift FD on the bike that I called "Blingy"...and did my first full century with no issues...my son has it now and is riding...again no issues...
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I picked up a Nashbar branded Microshift M55 RD (Mezzo?) a while back and have been really pleased with it. It was easy to set up and has held adjustment perfectly for several hundred miles. It is a 9 speed mech but I've been using it with a 7 speed cassette until I can upgrade to 9. I have been most surprised at how quickly and quietly it shifts. The fit and finish of the mech itself is excellent and looks good on my bike.
That said I picked up a microshift 10 speed wide range RD for a project and was extremely disappointed with it. Slow shifting, loud and never could get it dialed in anywhere near satisfactory.
That said I picked up a microshift 10 speed wide range RD for a project and was extremely disappointed with it. Slow shifting, loud and never could get it dialed in anywhere near satisfactory.
#22
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This review describes the brifters and yes there is trim for the FD.
Also, I'm running an Arsis RD on my Mercian. I got it because it's mostly polished aluminum and I think it looks better than the gray painted Ultegra. Besides that it's a little lighter, and it works well.
Also, I'm running an Arsis RD on my Mercian. I got it because it's mostly polished aluminum and I think it looks better than the gray painted Ultegra. Besides that it's a little lighter, and it works well.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 06-25-17 at 08:28 AM.
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I often eye up the Sun XCD parts.
Haven't gotten to them yet.
Haven't gotten to them yet.
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