1974 Crescent Pepita Professional DeLuxe 320
09-07-17, 07:52 PM
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1974 Crescent Pepita Professional DeLuxe 320
It's been a very long time but I have a new project.
This bike was advertised on CL for $75. I just happened to see it 10 minutes after it was posted and was the first respondent. The seller of course got multiple offers and some offering more but insisted on honoring the ad price. So home with me it came on the back of the SAAB. (Funky Swedish bike on a quirky Swedish car!)
Obviously, this bike doesn't look like it should:
Almost all Campy with the exception of Mafac Racer calipers and levers (it came to me with Weinmann side pulls and levers...Racers have since been acquired via local co-ops) and, oddly, a second adjustable, Japanese BB cup on the drive side!
This bike has been garage hanging for over 30 years. I like that. Once a bike receives a good coat of greasy garage dirt it tends to preserve the components. In this case it sure did. Why is the bike blackish-brown? The previous and original owner who sold me the bike felt it a theft target so he masked off the 531 tubing and fork decals and painted it.
I'm going to go with a powder coat, decals from Cyclomondo (frame, rims, stem, and handlebar decals), and clearcoat over decals. Here's the color I'm going to be using. Assuming the old paint there dulled a bit being 43 years old I think that powder will look great and be a pretty darned good match without ordering 100 color chips to check:
I have yet to pull the headset cups and crown race but everything else is broken down, cleaned and polished:
Here's a few pre-cleaning...note the preservation grime:
My intention is to put it as close to the pic up top without breaking the bank. The wheels had to be broken down 1) to polish the rims and 2) the spokes were too corroded to save. Double butted spokes are on the way for the rebuild. Tubular tires will be the Yellow Jersey 3/$50 special. I plan on getting the VO repro Mafac half hoods since I have original black hoods with the adjusters in them.
A few things made me come out of "retirement" to tackle this:
1) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
2) I've never had a vintage Campy bike.
3) The cost of entry was obviously low.
4) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT.
5) Oh, and vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
Watch for a few interim posts once the frame is redone, the wheels get rebuilt, and stuff starts getting bolted back on.
This bike was advertised on CL for $75. I just happened to see it 10 minutes after it was posted and was the first respondent. The seller of course got multiple offers and some offering more but insisted on honoring the ad price. So home with me it came on the back of the SAAB. (Funky Swedish bike on a quirky Swedish car!)
Obviously, this bike doesn't look like it should:
Almost all Campy with the exception of Mafac Racer calipers and levers (it came to me with Weinmann side pulls and levers...Racers have since been acquired via local co-ops) and, oddly, a second adjustable, Japanese BB cup on the drive side!
This bike has been garage hanging for over 30 years. I like that. Once a bike receives a good coat of greasy garage dirt it tends to preserve the components. In this case it sure did. Why is the bike blackish-brown? The previous and original owner who sold me the bike felt it a theft target so he masked off the 531 tubing and fork decals and painted it.
I'm going to go with a powder coat, decals from Cyclomondo (frame, rims, stem, and handlebar decals), and clearcoat over decals. Here's the color I'm going to be using. Assuming the old paint there dulled a bit being 43 years old I think that powder will look great and be a pretty darned good match without ordering 100 color chips to check:
I have yet to pull the headset cups and crown race but everything else is broken down, cleaned and polished:
Here's a few pre-cleaning...note the preservation grime:
My intention is to put it as close to the pic up top without breaking the bank. The wheels had to be broken down 1) to polish the rims and 2) the spokes were too corroded to save. Double butted spokes are on the way for the rebuild. Tubular tires will be the Yellow Jersey 3/$50 special. I plan on getting the VO repro Mafac half hoods since I have original black hoods with the adjusters in them.
A few things made me come out of "retirement" to tackle this:
1) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
2) I've never had a vintage Campy bike.
3) The cost of entry was obviously low.
4) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT.
5) Oh, and vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
Watch for a few interim posts once the frame is redone, the wheels get rebuilt, and stuff starts getting bolted back on.
09-07-17, 09:20 PM
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I'd say that's a worthy candidate for coming out of retirement. Looks like you've got everything you need to get it looking right without breaking the bank. Nice find, I also love the orange. Smart of the original owner, but a shame nontheless.
09-07-17, 09:42 PM
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It's been a very long time but I have a new project.
This bike was advertised on CL for $75. I just happened to see it 10 minutes after it was posted and was the first respondent. The seller of course got multiple offers and some offering more but insisted on honoring the ad price. So home with me it came on the back of the SAAB. (Funky Swedish bike on a quirky Swedish car!)
Obviously, this bike doesn't look like it should:
Almost all Campy with the exception of Mafac Racer calipers and levers (it came to me with Weinmann side pulls and levers...Racers have since been acquired via local co-ops) and, oddly, a second adjustable, Japanese BB cup on the drive side!
This bike has been garage hanging for over 30 years. I like that. Once a bike receives a good coat of greasy garage dirt it tends to preserve the components. In this case it sure did. Why is the bike blackish-brown? The previous and original owner who sold me the bike felt it a theft target so he masked off the 531 tubing and fork decals and painted it.
I'm going to go with a powder coat, decals from Cyclomondo (frame, rims, stem, and handlebar decals), and clearcoat over decals. Here's the color I'm going to be using. Assuming the old paint there dulled a bit being 43 years old I think that powder will look great and be a pretty darned good match without ordering 100 color chips to check:
I have yet to pull the headset cups and crown race but everything else is broken down, cleaned and polished:
Here's a few pre-cleaning...note the preservation grime:
My intention is to put it as close to the pic up top without breaking the bank. The wheels had to be broken down 1) to polish the rims and 2) the spokes were too corroded to save. Double butted spokes are on the way for the rebuild. Tubular tires will be the Yellow Jersey 3/$50 special. I plan on getting the VO repro Mafac half hoods since I have original black hoods with the adjusters in them.
A few things made me come out of "retirement" to tackle this:
1) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
2) I've never had a vintage Campy bike.
3) The cost of entry was obviously low.
4) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT.
5) Oh, and vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
Watch for a few interim posts once the frame is redone, the wheels get rebuilt, and stuff starts getting bolted back on.
This bike was advertised on CL for $75. I just happened to see it 10 minutes after it was posted and was the first respondent. The seller of course got multiple offers and some offering more but insisted on honoring the ad price. So home with me it came on the back of the SAAB. (Funky Swedish bike on a quirky Swedish car!)
Obviously, this bike doesn't look like it should:
Almost all Campy with the exception of Mafac Racer calipers and levers (it came to me with Weinmann side pulls and levers...Racers have since been acquired via local co-ops) and, oddly, a second adjustable, Japanese BB cup on the drive side!
This bike has been garage hanging for over 30 years. I like that. Once a bike receives a good coat of greasy garage dirt it tends to preserve the components. In this case it sure did. Why is the bike blackish-brown? The previous and original owner who sold me the bike felt it a theft target so he masked off the 531 tubing and fork decals and painted it.
I'm going to go with a powder coat, decals from Cyclomondo (frame, rims, stem, and handlebar decals), and clearcoat over decals. Here's the color I'm going to be using. Assuming the old paint there dulled a bit being 43 years old I think that powder will look great and be a pretty darned good match without ordering 100 color chips to check:
I have yet to pull the headset cups and crown race but everything else is broken down, cleaned and polished:
Here's a few pre-cleaning...note the preservation grime:
My intention is to put it as close to the pic up top without breaking the bank. The wheels had to be broken down 1) to polish the rims and 2) the spokes were too corroded to save. Double butted spokes are on the way for the rebuild. Tubular tires will be the Yellow Jersey 3/$50 special. I plan on getting the VO repro Mafac half hoods since I have original black hoods with the adjusters in them.
A few things made me come out of "retirement" to tackle this:
1) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
2) I've never had a vintage Campy bike.
3) The cost of entry was obviously low.
4) Vintage orange bikes are HAWT.
5) Oh, and vintage orange bikes are HAWT!
Watch for a few interim posts once the frame is redone, the wheels get rebuilt, and stuff starts getting bolted back on.
09-08-17, 05:02 AM
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Congrats. I renovated a 1974 319 last winter. Blue vs orange but I really like it. I posted a thread on it back in June. I've, since then, put several hundred miles on it and can say it's "a hoot to ride". Well worth the effort and the fun of getting it back on the road. It's in the regular rotation now. Enjoy!
09-08-17, 07:14 AM
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Welcome back Keith.
It just so happens that I have a poorly re-painted Crescent in the shed, and was considering orange powder when I restore as well. Does your selected chip have a code to share?
It just so happens that I have a poorly re-painted Crescent in the shed, and was considering orange powder when I restore as well. Does your selected chip have a code to share?
09-08-17, 07:43 AM
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Ask, Ex Pres, and ye shall receive: https://www.prismaticpowders.com/col...7/FLAG-ORANGE/
09-08-17, 08:12 AM
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Very nice -- a Hans Rosling memorial bicycle. (The late Dr. Rosling, himself a 1948 product of Sweden, maintained that the major difference between bearable poverty and abject, hopeless poverty was possession of a bicycle. This is a little higher-end than he had in mind. )
To each is own, but I prefer Weinmann brake handles over MAFAC because the former fit my hands perfectly and enable me to do a firm and fast panic grab, if necessary.
)To each is own, but I prefer Weinmann brake handles over MAFAC because the former fit my hands perfectly and enable me to do a firm and fast panic grab, if necessary.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
09-08-17, 08:28 AM
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Very nice -- a Hans Rosling memorial bicycle. (The late Dr. Rosling, himself a 1948 product of Sweden, maintained that the major difference between bearable poverty and abject, hopeless poverty was possession of a bicycle. This is a little higher-end than he had in mind. )
To each is own, but I prefer Weinmann brake handles over MAFAC because the former fit my hands perfectly and enable me to do a firm and fast panic grab, if necessary.
)To each is own, but I prefer Weinmann brake handles over MAFAC because the former fit my hands perfectly and enable me to do a firm and fast panic grab, if necessary.
09-08-17, 09:52 AM
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I think you meant Orange Cyklar är heta
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09-08-17, 10:39 AM
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That looks like a nice project - and bought at a likewise nice price. For me - being born and living in Sweden - these Crescents (and Monarks) are my home turf. That is where I started my vintage bike hobby. You probably know already of the mix of thread standards? French BB and pedals - and English headset? And a possible toe clip overlap? Not all have it but the earlier the more likely.
If you need info on these bikes I might be of help
edit. Here is one om my early projects. Picture is pre-digital cameras (around mid 80ies) - a scanned paper photo.
edit II. From when Campagnolo introduced their normal reach (now often called long reach) Record brakes that was a choice you could make if ordering your bike thru certain shops here - the Fåglum-Pettersson brothers shop for instance. Even with the normal reach brakes it required a Campagnolo drop bolt at the rear - making Sweden the Campagnolo drop bolt country of the world... I believe I have at least five of them.
If you need info on these bikes I might be of help
edit. Here is one om my early projects. Picture is pre-digital cameras (around mid 80ies) - a scanned paper photo.
edit II. From when Campagnolo introduced their normal reach (now often called long reach) Record brakes that was a choice you could make if ordering your bike thru certain shops here - the Fåglum-Pettersson brothers shop for instance. Even with the normal reach brakes it required a Campagnolo drop bolt at the rear - making Sweden the Campagnolo drop bolt country of the world... I believe I have at least five of them.
Last edited by styggno1; 09-08-17 at 11:11 AM.
09-08-17, 11:12 AM
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Welcome back, Keith.
I built up my McLean in 1983 with mostly Campagnolo Nuovo Record stuff. It's really good stuff. The bolts etc. are precisely ground and made of hard steel, so it all goes together well. You'll enjoy this project, especially since it will look good when polished, and you like to polish.
I built up my McLean in 1983 with mostly Campagnolo Nuovo Record stuff. It's really good stuff. The bolts etc. are precisely ground and made of hard steel, so it all goes together well. You'll enjoy this project, especially since it will look good when polished, and you like to polish.
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-08-17, 12:36 PM
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Nice to see you posting again, Keith. And with a nice bike too! Subscribing.
BTW, orange bikes are the fastest, so good choice.
BTW, orange bikes are the fastest, so good choice.
09-08-17, 04:07 PM
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Great find Keith. I kind of lusted after one of these back when. Loved the color and the decals.
Bought my PX-10 instead though.
It's been a long time but as I remember, the colors of the completed bikes shown may be a little closer to original than your Flag orange, which appears to me close to what they used to call "competition orange". Just a hint more red in the orange on the original. Maybe.
You might try hitting that paint where the Reynolds fork decal came off with polishing compound to see if removing any oxidation brings the color back up.
But it hardly matters. An orange bike is up there on my list. And these are cool looking bikes.
Bought my PX-10 instead though.
It's been a long time but as I remember, the colors of the completed bikes shown may be a little closer to original than your Flag orange, which appears to me close to what they used to call "competition orange". Just a hint more red in the orange on the original. Maybe.
You might try hitting that paint where the Reynolds fork decal came off with polishing compound to see if removing any oxidation brings the color back up.
But it hardly matters. An orange bike is up there on my list. And these are cool looking bikes.
09-08-17, 10:01 PM
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That looks like a nice project - and bought at a likewise nice price. For me - being born and living in Sweden - these Crescents (and Monarks) are my home turf. That is where I started my vintage bike hobby. You probably know already of the mix of thread standards? French BB and pedals - and English headset? And a possible toe clip overlap? Not all have it but the earlier the more likely.
Whew. Since I need a Campy fixed cup to replace the Sakae adjustable cup that's on the right side that should make it easier to find just a fixed cup.
Anyone have a lone, 70's, Nuovo Record fixed cup laying around? LOL
09-09-17, 07:22 AM
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Actually, my BB is English/ISO 1.370 x 24. I pulled all the headset except the cups but didn't look close to see what it was.
Whew. Since I need a Campy fixed cup to replace the Sakae adjustable cup that's on the right side that should make it easier to find just a fixed cup.
Anyone have a lone, 70's, Nuovo Record fixed cup laying around? LOL
Whew. Since I need a Campy fixed cup to replace the Sakae adjustable cup that's on the right side that should make it easier to find just a fixed cup.
Anyone have a lone, 70's, Nuovo Record fixed cup laying around? LOL
Last edited by styggno1; 09-09-17 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Spelling
09-09-17, 07:33 AM
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If the black paint was put on as a "protective" layer, it could be that the original finish underneath is still in good shape. I would first try to get off the black without removing the original paint and decals, if that is possible.
09-09-17, 08:28 AM
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If you got a cup on the right side with English thread something has happened. Crescent did not use anything other than French 35x1 at the BB until the 80ies - I promise you. There are som possibilities of course. The "best" one being that someone have filled the threads with brass and re-tapped it. I would suggest a thorough check.
I just verified that 100% for sure the BB is English threaded. Not only that but it's threaded such that an adjustable cup fits both sides. I just tried Tange cups I have here, the adjustable cup threads both sides. The fixed cup does not thread the right side. So something funky is going on for sure.
Going back to my notes from the seller (and original owner) he said he bought the bike in 1979. The NR RD has a "PATENT-73" marking on it so I assumed the date of the bike from that. But, sitting 5-6 years in a bike shop before being purchased seems odd too doesn't it?
I'm guessing the decals were applied over the paint and NOT under any clear as all the decals are missing aside from the Reynolds 531 fork and frame decals and the round foil Crescent decal on the seat tube which the PO masked off before he painted the frame brown. I was hoping to get placement guidance from what was underneath haha!
So here's the serial from the BB shell:
20170909_090516.jpg
Anyone know how to decode that? I suppose I could have a later bike but that still doesn't explain the fact that adjustable cups thread on both sides of the BB. Not that from a functional standpoint that bothers me. I just need another Campy adjustable cup rather than a fixed cup. Also, the fact that it apparently has a 1973 RD on it is interesting as well.
2017-09-09 09_26_01-Photo - Google Photos.jpg
So styggno1, any guidance you can give here? The serial number certainly matches the pattern of other Crescent serial I've found. The PO was adamant that it's a 531 frame and it seems light enough to be.
Help! Hahahaha!
09-09-17, 08:51 AM
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The upper serial is not Crescent. The lower - beginning with a "4" means it is a seventies bike. Crescent serials are all over the place and a more exact year is not possible as of now. There are efforts made but nothing firm has come up yet.
Parts are at the most indicative. Check hub bearing lock nuts for year stamping, does the cranks have a date code or are they blank?
No need to worry if it is Reynolds 531. It is - all the frames with these lugs and campagnolo drop outs were made with 531. Well... there is one exception and that is the Sandvik stainless steel version but on those the lugs were just for decoration (split and put on).
Parts are at the most indicative. Check hub bearing lock nuts for year stamping, does the cranks have a date code or are they blank?
No need to worry if it is Reynolds 531. It is - all the frames with these lugs and campagnolo drop outs were made with 531. Well... there is one exception and that is the Sandvik stainless steel version but on those the lugs were just for decoration (split and put on).
09-09-17, 10:26 AM
#21
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Ok, well, confusion mounts...
I just verified that 100% for sure the BB is English threaded. Not only that but it's threaded such that an adjustable cup fits both sides. I just tried Tange cups I have here, the adjustable cup threads both sides. The fixed cup does not thread the right side. So something funky is going on for sure.
I just verified that 100% for sure the BB is English threaded. Not only that but it's threaded such that an adjustable cup fits both sides. I just tried Tange cups I have here, the adjustable cup threads both sides. The fixed cup does not thread the right side. So something funky is going on for sure.
No, it's normal. 1.37" = 34.798mm, and a BSC adjustable cup will appear to fit into a French BB.
It is still a french BB.
09-09-17, 10:38 AM
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The upper serial is not Crescent. The lower - beginning with a "4" means it is a seventies bike. Crescent serials are all over the place and a more exact year is not possible as of now. There are efforts made but nothing firm has come up yet.
Parts are at the most indicative. Check hub bearing lock nuts for year stamping, does the cranks have a date code or are they blank?
No need to worry if it is Reynolds 531. It is - all the frames with these lugs and campagnolo drop outs were made with 531. Well... there is one exception and that is the Sandvik stainless steel version but on those the lugs were just for decoration (split and put on).
Parts are at the most indicative. Check hub bearing lock nuts for year stamping, does the cranks have a date code or are they blank?
No need to worry if it is Reynolds 531. It is - all the frames with these lugs and campagnolo drop outs were made with 531. Well... there is one exception and that is the Sandvik stainless steel version but on those the lugs were just for decoration (split and put on).
2017-09-09 11_19_41-.jpg
2017-09-09 11_19_14-Photo - Google Photos.jpg
And, just to prove I'm not crazy, here's a video of me threading an English adjustable cup into both sides of the BB shell!
No codes anywhere on the hubs, nor on the cranks which are just marked "STRADA 172.5". The only thing I have is a "PATENT-73" on the RD.
The pedal threading is standard:
2017-09-09 11_36_57-Photo - Google Photos.jpg
I'm going to e-mail the PO again and see if he can shed any light on any of this.
Additional thoughts?
09-09-17, 10:47 AM
#23
Senior Member
Again, it is normally possible to screw an English adjustable cup into both sides of a french BB. The pitch is different, but since the cup is a tiny bit smaller it's close enough. If it was BSC it would not have a right thread fixed side.
Also they could have been chased with a BSC tap at some point. If you want to know if that's happened, check with thread gauges and a magnifying glass for best fit.
Also they could have been chased with a BSC tap at some point. If you want to know if that's happened, check with thread gauges and a magnifying glass for best fit.
09-09-17, 11:05 AM
#24
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Again, it is normally possible to screw an English adjustable cup into both sides of a french BB. The pitch is different, but since the cup is a tiny bit smaller it's close enough. If it was BSC it would not have a right thread fixed side.
Also they could have been chased with a BSC tap at some point. If you want to know if that's happened, check with thread gauges and a magnifying glass for best fit.
Also they could have been chased with a BSC tap at some point. If you want to know if that's happened, check with thread gauges and a magnifying glass for best fit.
When I removed the cups when I broke the bike down they were good and tight.
Is there any functional reason not to use BSC cups instead of trying to chase down a French BB? Especially since I just found and bought an NR BSC adjustable cup to use
Thoughts? Thanks SO much for the clarification.
09-09-17, 11:14 AM
#25
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Look for the date codes on the hubs - here:
As I wrote earlier - date codes are only indicative, as parts can lay in stock for a while or have been substituted along the way, but if your hubs say the same as your rear derailleur it is at least an indicator if believeing the parts to be original to the bike. Date codes on Record cranks started in 1973 (73 in a romboid) - i e yours is pre that.
As I wrote earlier - date codes are only indicative, as parts can lay in stock for a while or have been substituted along the way, but if your hubs say the same as your rear derailleur it is at least an indicator if believeing the parts to be original to the bike. Date codes on Record cranks started in 1973 (73 in a romboid) - i e yours is pre that.