Thanks, I will try this. I thought that I had clicked down to the lowest lever setting but the pull did feel too tight.

I tried loosening the cable and “downshifting” multiple times to try and reset the lever. I’ve gone on two 40+ miles since then and only had it do a trim click on the big chainring like one time. What’s weird is that seems to want to do an intermediate click on the up shift to the big ring. Then, in order to get it centered on the big ring you need one final swoosh of the lever. By this time the cable feels tight, like some spring is bound up in the lever.

I’m about to remove the lever and try a WD-40 flush. I guess I’ll have to remove the lever to do this.

it acts like the cable is too tight that’s for sure. I loosened it several times and it now is slightly slack when in the 30 tooth chainring. When I push the inside lever multiple times nothing really happens. I’m starting to think that the shifter needs a major flush off the bike, or replaced.

one odd observation though: Even though the housing and cable are new, when I sweep the lever through it’s range it acts like there is lots of resistance.

i’m pretty frustrated right now.

It is o. The topside of the pinch bolt. Which side should it be on?

I would think these should last much longer than 12,000 miles as well...

it it was hanging up a little with the old housing, plus the housing had never been changed since new.

thank you for the link. If it is a bad setup (by me), I hope I’m not messing it up further by riding it like this. It acts unhappy.

i believe you. It appears to be instruction #5 on the FD-7703 instruction sheet I’m working from. I’m actually using a FD-6603 (Ultegra10 speed triple) front derailleur with the 7703 shifter but am unaware of any incompatibility. Besides, this exact setup used to work fine!

I sprayed out the shifter today with White Lightning Clean Stream spray then followed it up with Boeshield T9. I thought about finishing up by pumping some of my Rock-N-Roll Super Web grease in there using the Pedro’s micro grease gun but stopped short of doing that. Is this perhaps an OK idea?

BTW. after doing all this, I still have no big chainring click. Things are almost back to normal and I did forget to turn the high limit screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise this last time as the instructions say. I think I’m on to something but - wow - getting this guy set up correctly this last time has been quite the mystery.

I’ve played around with this multiple times and tried to get it like you describe. Unfortunately, it is being most stubborn. The upper trim click is empty. I mean, I can feel a half click ever so slightly but it doesn’t move the derailleur cage over any. So I’m totally unable to get anywhere near the big/big combo (or the 7th or 8th cog) on my 9 speed cassette.

This jumped out at me. It wouldn’t be limited to just the trim, but have you looked for resistance where the cable goes through the Teflon tubing under the bottom bracket? I’ve had dirt and sand pack in there pretty tightly and mess up my shifting.

Thanks for that clarification. Yes, the ability to trim the front derailleur in the more big/big combinations without rubbing was my intent. Not the very last big/big (which in my case would be a 52 front / 23 rear cog. This last one I can live without due to cross chaining and accelerated chain wear. But the next 2 in line are good gears are handy for rolling terrain situations during group riding. My “B” club ride that I’m participating in has such a collection of veteran cyclists, that a bad front mis-shift has been shown on numerous occasions to drop me to the back of the group just as things are intensifying with the group tempo.

Bingo !

This morning I replaced the old nylon cable guide with a universal replacement one that came in the bag with a Shimano derailleur cable kit. It isn’t a perfect fit but I made it work and the path of the inner wires is unimpeded. My old guide appeared clean externally. I can’t tell for sure but the nylon grooves themselves were no longer slick.

As for the mystery trim click gone missing: Indeed, an overly tight cable appeared to be partly to blame. I ended up having to release excess cable tension as the front crank was in the middle ring - while on the intermediate hard click of the shifter. I was able to dynamically let out just enough cable to observe the front shifter “relaxing” as the intended trim clicks started to function.

As with most things mechanical (that I try to optimize myself), subsequent test rides reveal further adjustments requiring follow up. My Tuesday night ride was a slight improvement as I initially could feel the big chainring trim click. But then I “lost” it again when I tweaked the adjuster barrel in an attempt to take up excess slack.

I will I’ll be doing the 45+ mile club ride again tonight, so I will post an update later. Thanks so much mechanics for your input.

Today I shortened up my housing slightly and double checked the middle chainring adjuster barrel to assure that it is correct with the Shimano instruction sheet. The front shifting movement no longer feels “tight” but appears to move through the chainrings with much lighter effort.

Even though the cable had been on the top side of the pinch bolt, I had failed to route it outside of the “ear” that is there. This last time I went outside the ear, then into the groove (still on the outside of the pinch bolt). The cable makes a 90 degree turn right there, but I gently pushed it upward to clear everything.

I have generally prided myself on self on doing my own mechanic work but damn, you might want to nominate me for the “less than stellar” award.

Wouldn't worry too much, everyone's done this at least once. Its when you've done it repeatedly that you need to start worrying about it. Glad you figured it out.

Thanks for the support pesty. I have had malfunctions with this same triple shifter and front derailleur in the past as well. So I guess you could say I should have learned (the procedure) by now.