What is C&V using for chain lube?
#1
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What is C&V using for chain lube?
I have purchased maybe 3-4 bottles of chain lube in my lifetime. Some schwinn product you would likely find at Walmart and then Filzer hippy lube. Both are wet based lubes.
i am tired of cleaning my chains and then coming back after a short ride and finding them full of black stuff and dust. The lube does keep the chain quiet for a few hundred km.
I am looking at trying a dry lube like muck off original or ceramic.
i am tired of cleaning my chains and then coming back after a short ride and finding them full of black stuff and dust. The lube does keep the chain quiet for a few hundred km.
I am looking at trying a dry lube like muck off original or ceramic.
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Chain-L is my go-to. It lasts longer in tough, dirty, wet, gritty conditions than anything I've tried.
I've also used Tri-Flow when I'm more interested in keeping the drivetrain shiny. But it doesn't last long.
I've also used Tri-Flow when I'm more interested in keeping the drivetrain shiny. But it doesn't last long.
#3
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I've been using Finish Line Dry and like it a lot. Sets up as a wax-like film, results in a quiet drivetrain with minimal mess.
#4
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Gulf wax in a small crock pot. I have two identical KMC chains and rotate them once a month or around every 400-500 miles. I immerse the chains in the hot wax for several hours or overnight to be sure it gets into the friction surfaces. Very clean compared with everything else I've tried.
Occasionally I'll apply a bit of Boeshield T9 toward the end of the month to quiet the chain again. Boeshield is mostly paraffin in a solvent (naptha, I think). It needs to be reapplied about once a week, but it's almost as clean as wax.
If I do happen to get a chain tattoo or need to handle the chain for a flat repair the chain smudges wipe off with a dry tissue or spare napkin.
I wouldn't use wet oily lubes again unless I lived and commuted in a rainy area. Not worth the hassle in Texas. The melted wax and crock pot setup is actually less work. No need to drizzle oil drop by drop or spray it on, which is always wasteful unless we take the time to apply it droplet by droplet with a needle applicator -- that can take quite awhile.
Occasionally I'll apply a bit of Boeshield T9 toward the end of the month to quiet the chain again. Boeshield is mostly paraffin in a solvent (naptha, I think). It needs to be reapplied about once a week, but it's almost as clean as wax.
If I do happen to get a chain tattoo or need to handle the chain for a flat repair the chain smudges wipe off with a dry tissue or spare napkin.
I wouldn't use wet oily lubes again unless I lived and commuted in a rainy area. Not worth the hassle in Texas. The melted wax and crock pot setup is actually less work. No need to drizzle oil drop by drop or spray it on, which is always wasteful unless we take the time to apply it droplet by droplet with a needle applicator -- that can take quite awhile.
#5
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Yep we are long overdue for a C&V chainlube thread.
I've gone back to Tri Flow. An oldie but a goodie. The standard for decades.
Was using Finish line wet for a while. It really only works here in winter - when there isn't a drought. Local conditions are too dry and gritty for sticky wet lubes most of the year. I may try Finish line dry, but the fact that they say you have to relube every 100 miles gives me great pause, to say the least. With Tri Flow I can go 1000 no problem, though I usually clean and relube more often than that. Other dry lubes in the past (including soaking chain in hot paraffin) tended to only last a couple rides.
I was thinking of trying LPS3 on my Clem, since I have some. I figure it's basically the same as Boeshield.
I've gone back to Tri Flow. An oldie but a goodie. The standard for decades.
Was using Finish line wet for a while. It really only works here in winter - when there isn't a drought. Local conditions are too dry and gritty for sticky wet lubes most of the year. I may try Finish line dry, but the fact that they say you have to relube every 100 miles gives me great pause, to say the least. With Tri Flow I can go 1000 no problem, though I usually clean and relube more often than that. Other dry lubes in the past (including soaking chain in hot paraffin) tended to only last a couple rides.
I was thinking of trying LPS3 on my Clem, since I have some. I figure it's basically the same as Boeshield.
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Chain-L here. The down side of it is that it is a bit messy, dripping ugly black stuff on my chain stay. Not a big deal but it does take a little cleanup.
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I’ve never liked Tri-Flow because it’s seems to attract and hold more dirt, although that’s the lube used at Bike Works on our hundreds of rebuilds where I volunteer.
A product called Smoove was the far and away top rated of five chain lubes tested extensively over a five-year period by Rick Schultz of Road Bike Rider (online weekly road bike magazine). His test methodology seemed pretty thorough. According to his results, this wax-based product could used for 350-600 miles between applications (others were 200 miles), and resulted in chain life of 7400 miles (others were 3200-4700). Only downside was that the nozzle gets clogged between uses.
I’ve been using either ProLink (one of the five compared) or Boeshield T9 for many years and get about 300 miles between applications and 3000 mile chain life. So my results match RBR’s. Next time I buy lube, I will definitely get Smoove.
A product called Smoove was the far and away top rated of five chain lubes tested extensively over a five-year period by Rick Schultz of Road Bike Rider (online weekly road bike magazine). His test methodology seemed pretty thorough. According to his results, this wax-based product could used for 350-600 miles between applications (others were 200 miles), and resulted in chain life of 7400 miles (others were 3200-4700). Only downside was that the nozzle gets clogged between uses.
I’ve been using either ProLink (one of the five compared) or Boeshield T9 for many years and get about 300 miles between applications and 3000 mile chain life. So my results match RBR’s. Next time I buy lube, I will definitely get Smoove.
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Another Chain-L user here. I like how it holds up over long rides. I brought a spare lubed chain to Paris-Brest-Paris 2015 and then the subsequent three RAGBRAIs just in case the lube wore out or got washed out in the rain, and never needed them.
A waxed chain that started squeaking 200 miles into any of those rides would have been unacceptable.
A waxed chain that started squeaking 200 miles into any of those rides would have been unacceptable.
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#12
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Gulf wax with teflon powder...
(as discussed in other sub-forums on this site.)
(as discussed in other sub-forums on this site.)
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It's 10/40 motor oil in the case of my intrepid teenage son. Last week he asked for some oil for his college and town BSO.
Being hors de velo and still on crutches I made the mistake of telling him to help himself from one of the cans in the garage.
15 minutes later he hadn't reappeared, so I hopped over to the garage to find him mopping up what looked like the aftermath of the Torrey Canyon from the garage floor. He'd grabbed the first oil can he saw - a 5L container of full synthetic - and apparently upended it over the freewheel.....
I made a few pointed suggestions and retreated to the house, not wanting to slip up on the oil slick and gain another broken bone.
Being hors de velo and still on crutches I made the mistake of telling him to help himself from one of the cans in the garage.
15 minutes later he hadn't reappeared, so I hopped over to the garage to find him mopping up what looked like the aftermath of the Torrey Canyon from the garage floor. He'd grabbed the first oil can he saw - a 5L container of full synthetic - and apparently upended it over the freewheel.....
I made a few pointed suggestions and retreated to the house, not wanting to slip up on the oil slick and gain another broken bone.
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I either use Tri-Flow or Rock "N" Roll lubricant. Tri-Flow is always the quick one if I'm in a hurry.
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#15
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NFS Chain Lube. Only use 12 drops for a full chain. That will last 300 miles. Chain doesn't get dirty because there is not much oil on it. Requires no special preparation, just drip the oil on. Has been marketed by Richard Sachs and by Silca but those arrangements are gone, you have to look for it online. Slightly pricey but you don't use that much. Chain runs quieter and smoother than with anything else. As soon as those 12 drops spread around in the first mile or so you know you are using something completely different. And you no longer spend any time at all faffing about with cleaning and prepping chain. My bikes have 50 year old chains, 40 to 60 year old freewheels, forty to 80 year old chainrings. Those parts aren't made anymore. They all show much less wear with NFS.
ExPatTyke reminded me of how you take care of your chain in an emergency. You got caught in the rain and your chain is not happy. Even with NFS rain will eventually remove your lube. Stop at the gas station. Check in the trash can between the pumps. There is always an empty oil can in there. And it is never completely empty. Drip what's left on your chain. Motor oil is good lube and it is way better than nothing. You have a big cleanup job when you get home anyway so get some oil on your chain. Or do like the randonneurs do and if riding long distance when it might rain carry a small bottle of your preferred oil with you.
ExPatTyke reminded me of how you take care of your chain in an emergency. You got caught in the rain and your chain is not happy. Even with NFS rain will eventually remove your lube. Stop at the gas station. Check in the trash can between the pumps. There is always an empty oil can in there. And it is never completely empty. Drip what's left on your chain. Motor oil is good lube and it is way better than nothing. You have a big cleanup job when you get home anyway so get some oil on your chain. Or do like the randonneurs do and if riding long distance when it might rain carry a small bottle of your preferred oil with you.
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Another Chain-L user. He sends a small bottle perfect for packing for long distances.
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What?! No one uses WD-40? (or admits to it?)
I've been using Finish Line dry lube which seems to not pick up as much dirt as the wetter lubes I've used.
I've been using Finish Line dry lube which seems to not pick up as much dirt as the wetter lubes I've used.
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Yep we are long overdue for a C&V chainlube thread.
I've gone back to Tri Flow. An oldie but a goodie. The standard for decades.
Was using Finish line wet for a while. It really only works here in winter - when there isn't a drought. Local conditions are too dry and gritty for sticky wet lubes most of the year. I may try Finish line dry, but the fact that they say you have to relube every 100 miles gives me great pause, to say the least. With Tri Flow I can go 1000 no problem, though I usually clean and relube more often than that. Other dry lubes in the past (including soaking chain in hot paraffin) tended to only last a couple rides.
I was thinking of trying LPS3 on my Clem, since I have some. I figure it's basically the same as Boeshield.
I've gone back to Tri Flow. An oldie but a goodie. The standard for decades.
Was using Finish line wet for a while. It really only works here in winter - when there isn't a drought. Local conditions are too dry and gritty for sticky wet lubes most of the year. I may try Finish line dry, but the fact that they say you have to relube every 100 miles gives me great pause, to say the least. With Tri Flow I can go 1000 no problem, though I usually clean and relube more often than that. Other dry lubes in the past (including soaking chain in hot paraffin) tended to only last a couple rides.
I was thinking of trying LPS3 on my Clem, since I have some. I figure it's basically the same as Boeshield.
My usage rate increased several years ago when I got a motorcycle.
At this point, there is a about a quart left.
A number of popular lubes are available in bulk here: https://www.bikeparts.com/categories...1&f%5B%5D=3256
(I bought the Tri-Flow there 15 years ago for a little less than half what it now costs)
#19
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Tri Flow in the Winter, Squeeze bottle of Dupont or Finish Line in the dry season. Don
#21
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But Yes, I use wd40. The advantage for me is when I spray it I also wipe it down so it stays relatively clean. Looking at responses apparently it requires only as much reapplying as any other chain lube. I know, I know it's a "water displacement" but it's a lubricant. Ever use it on a squeaky hinge? Since this is C&V I assume I may get no negative remarks but... if you have to at least be someone who's actually used it. Btw if you decide to give it a try DO NOT remove original factory lube.
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I just got a bottle of 3in1 dry lube. Tried it yesterday on a cleaned chain for 65 miles 6,500 feet to good effect. I got it at lowes which is handy and classic cheap.
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It's 10/40 motor oil in the case of my intrepid teenage son. Last week he asked for some oil for his college and town BSO.
Being hors de velo and still on crutches I made the mistake of telling him to help himself from one of the cans in the garage.
15 minutes later he hadn't reappeared, so I hopped over to the garage to find him mopping up what looked like the aftermath of the Torrey Canyon from the garage floor. He'd grabbed the first oil can he saw - a 5L container of full synthetic - and apparently upended it over the freewheel.....
I made a few pointed suggestions and retreated to the house, not wanting to slip up on the oil slick and gain another broken bone.
Being hors de velo and still on crutches I made the mistake of telling him to help himself from one of the cans in the garage.
15 minutes later he hadn't reappeared, so I hopped over to the garage to find him mopping up what looked like the aftermath of the Torrey Canyon from the garage floor. He'd grabbed the first oil can he saw - a 5L container of full synthetic - and apparently upended it over the freewheel.....
I made a few pointed suggestions and retreated to the house, not wanting to slip up on the oil slick and gain another broken bone.