Transferring old o-rings/seals to new cones
#1
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Transferring old o-rings/seals to new cones
I've got a Shimano FH-5700 rear hub that got pitting on one of the cones. I figured I'd replace both cones in one go, so I ordered new ones from Wheels Manufacturing, which don't come with o-rings/seals. What's the proper way to transfer the old seals to the new cones? I didn't want to apply too much pressure for fear of breaking the seals, so I figured I'd ask here first.
(In the picture the new right cone hasn't arrived yet)
(In the picture the new right cone hasn't arrived yet)
#2
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Purchase new O-rings from an industrial supply or Amazon. Get out your calipers to determine the size you need. The old O-rings are in worse shape that the pitted cones.
#3
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They aren't o-rings, if they came from a Shimano hub. They are split plastic washers that make up part of the sealing element. Clean them off, and how to remove them will become very obvious.
Moving the dust shield should be easy, if you can find something that fits over the cone, but presses against the closest part of the shield.
Moving the dust shield should be easy, if you can find something that fits over the cone, but presses against the closest part of the shield.
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I believe Shimano usually uses a split ring, or two split rings for the seals.
Clean them up and look for cracks or joints. Then pop them out with a mini screwdriver or something similar.
Clean them up and look for cracks or joints. Then pop them out with a mini screwdriver or something similar.
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Use the smallest socket that will fit over the cone and tap it off; use the socket to tap it on. A screwdriver could deform the dust cap.
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Agreed that the seals are plastic rings, much like piston compression/oil rings. Like them one would pry up the ring's end til it cleared the cone's OD and then pry up and off the rest of that ring. Also much like working with a "C" clip. I've replaced these with a tiny "O" ring when the plastic broke...
dmark's suggests are good for the dust cap. I sometimes find that I have to slightly pry in the ID to better "hug" the new cone's OD. Andy
dmark's suggests are good for the dust cap. I sometimes find that I have to slightly pry in the ID to better "hug" the new cone's OD. Andy
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I've started polishing all of my cones. Even "new" ones.
I have a small drill press and some old broken axles from the co-op that I use (although a good axle is OK if it doesn't slip). Chuck up the axle, and put the cone + lockring on the axle backwards.
Run through a succession of 320 grit to 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper, hand sanding with the drill on high speed (you can wet sand with oil on the last step if you wish).
Within a few minutes, your cone will look like the vintage Campagnolo Record cones.
The last set of cones I did it to, I had a couple with minor pits, and the pits completely vanished. And, one with moderate pits that came out OK. Everything felt smooth in the hubs once I greased reassembled (trailer hubs). Even with previously pitted cones, I believe they came out MUCH better than new.
Anyway, if it was me, I'd polish up the left cone and re-use it. And, also polish up the replacement right WM cone. I'd have slightly more faith in the original Shimano cone than a replacement.
I have a small drill press and some old broken axles from the co-op that I use (although a good axle is OK if it doesn't slip). Chuck up the axle, and put the cone + lockring on the axle backwards.
Run through a succession of 320 grit to 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper, hand sanding with the drill on high speed (you can wet sand with oil on the last step if you wish).
Within a few minutes, your cone will look like the vintage Campagnolo Record cones.
The last set of cones I did it to, I had a couple with minor pits, and the pits completely vanished. And, one with moderate pits that came out OK. Everything felt smooth in the hubs once I greased reassembled (trailer hubs). Even with previously pitted cones, I believe they came out MUCH better than new.
Anyway, if it was me, I'd polish up the left cone and re-use it. And, also polish up the replacement right WM cone. I'd have slightly more faith in the original Shimano cone than a replacement.