Servicing Shimano ST-6500
12-23-18, 09:38 PM
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Servicing Shimano ST-6500
I bought a Litespeed Tuscany a while back that had an 8sp Ultegra group, which I removed. It turned out to be a 6500 group.
Problems with the ST-6500 STI shifters were:
-large pull paddle becoming blocked
-slow return of small (pawl release) paddle
The ST-6500 is not like RSX or 105 STI levers. With the latter, I’m used to removing the face plate with a hex key, removing the mech and attacking the pawls and springs directly.
6500 has a name plate on top of the face plate, the name plate (says Ultegra Flight Deck) is not designed to be removed, as far as I could tell, unless you are ready to replace it. It looks like the plate on the 6510 is held on by a screw.
There is also a wiring harness that runs between the mech and the lever body, which can be separated from the lever body if you have a smal set of screw drivers.
To service the levers, I held off on trying to pry the name plate away from the face plate. I eventually found the Shimano exploded view (EV) of the ST-6500 shifting and braking systems, and service guide.
The guide does not recommend removing the name plate, pulling the face plate and servicing the shifter mech. It warns against disassembly. The furthest Shimano recommends you go is using a special socket to remove the nut holding the shifter mech to the paddles.
There’s a screw visible on the inside of the paddles near the mech that would normally release the mech from the lever bracket. With the 6500, removing this screw does not get around the problem of the name plate blocking access to the anchor bolt.
Has anyone used the special socket to remove the anchor nut? Does that allow you to service the mech?
To fix the problem of the large paddles getting hung up, I had to lubricate as best I could the return mech for the small paddle. There’s a lock-out feature in the shifter mech where if the small paddle is engaged, the large paddle is blocked from actuating the mech.
So if you can’t even toggle your Shimano STI paddles and “dry run” the shifter, check to make sure the small paddle is returning to its non-shifting position, aka, away from the frame.
Unfortunately the pawls on the ST-6500 for the RD are really cruddy. I can’t get more than two shifts out of it. I was able to send some lubricant towards the pawls and springs through cutouts in the shifter mech. The whole setup is designed to keep out the type of thing I’m trying to get in. A full bath would probably be the next step...which may also damage the face plate.
Problems with the ST-6500 STI shifters were:
-large pull paddle becoming blocked
-slow return of small (pawl release) paddle
The ST-6500 is not like RSX or 105 STI levers. With the latter, I’m used to removing the face plate with a hex key, removing the mech and attacking the pawls and springs directly.
6500 has a name plate on top of the face plate, the name plate (says Ultegra Flight Deck) is not designed to be removed, as far as I could tell, unless you are ready to replace it. It looks like the plate on the 6510 is held on by a screw.
There is also a wiring harness that runs between the mech and the lever body, which can be separated from the lever body if you have a smal set of screw drivers.
To service the levers, I held off on trying to pry the name plate away from the face plate. I eventually found the Shimano exploded view (EV) of the ST-6500 shifting and braking systems, and service guide.
The guide does not recommend removing the name plate, pulling the face plate and servicing the shifter mech. It warns against disassembly. The furthest Shimano recommends you go is using a special socket to remove the nut holding the shifter mech to the paddles.
There’s a screw visible on the inside of the paddles near the mech that would normally release the mech from the lever bracket. With the 6500, removing this screw does not get around the problem of the name plate blocking access to the anchor bolt.
Has anyone used the special socket to remove the anchor nut? Does that allow you to service the mech?
To fix the problem of the large paddles getting hung up, I had to lubricate as best I could the return mech for the small paddle. There’s a lock-out feature in the shifter mech where if the small paddle is engaged, the large paddle is blocked from actuating the mech.
So if you can’t even toggle your Shimano STI paddles and “dry run” the shifter, check to make sure the small paddle is returning to its non-shifting position, aka, away from the frame.
Unfortunately the pawls on the ST-6500 for the RD are really cruddy. I can’t get more than two shifts out of it. I was able to send some lubricant towards the pawls and springs through cutouts in the shifter mech. The whole setup is designed to keep out the type of thing I’m trying to get in. A full bath would probably be the next step...which may also damage the face plate.
Last edited by 206Moser; 12-23-18 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Spelling
12-23-18, 10:04 PM
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The best way to free up the workings of these older STI units is to soak, flush out the dried up factory lube then relube with thin then thicker stuff. "hosing out" or dunking the whole lever/pod portion is quite easy to do. It sounds like you have the flight deck version, the ribbon of wire between the pod and the inside of the lever body. If you don't ever plan to use a Shimano Flight Deck computer then just cut the ribbon, pull out as much as you can and tuck away the rest. We don't bother trying to pull off name plates. But we do remove the lever/pod assembly from the body, if the tiny pivot set screw will loosen. Using a sharp/not worn or ball ended hex wrench helps here. We have never seen a face plate be damaged with the industrial solvent tank soaking we use. Or with Clean Streak, WD40 and Thrust. Andy
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12-24-18, 11:56 AM
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I was always able to get them working with WD-40 and shifting up and down until everything loosened up. I am an old ludlite and use down tube shifters.
12-25-18, 06:49 AM
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6500 wiring harness
The best way to free up the workings of these older STI units is to soak, flush out the dried up factory lube then relube with thin then thicker stuff. "hosing out" or dunking the whole lever/pod portion is quite easy to do. It sounds like you have the flight deck version, the ribbon of wire between the pod and the inside of the lever body. If you don't ever plan to use a Shimano Flight Deck computer then just cut the ribbon, pull out as much as you can and tuck away the rest. We don't bother trying to pull off name plates. But we do remove the lever/pod assembly from the body, if the tiny pivot set screw will loosen. Using a sharp/not worn or ball ended hex wrench helps here. We have never seen a face plate be damaged with the industrial solvent tank soaking we use. Or with Clean Streak, WD40 and Thrust. Andy
I wanted that wire harness out! Although once I realized that the lever bodies would feel strange without a cover for the electronic bits, mounted under the hoods, I figured I would just leave the wire.
12-25-18, 08:16 AM
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Cut off the ribbon from the contacts cover and replace the cover. Done this many times.
The only issue I have with Simple Green is that it's water based. So rust is one concern, it's really hard to insure that all the nooks and crannies in a index pod are completely dry. Water and lube don't like to mix too well too. The second but less mentioned aspect of a water based solvent is what you do with it after it's been contaminated by whatever you're cleaning out. I hope this means that it doesn't get washed down the drain... Andy
The only issue I have with Simple Green is that it's water based. So rust is one concern, it's really hard to insure that all the nooks and crannies in a index pod are completely dry. Water and lube don't like to mix too well too. The second but less mentioned aspect of a water based solvent is what you do with it after it's been contaminated by whatever you're cleaning out. I hope this means that it doesn't get washed down the drain... Andy
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12-25-18, 08:39 AM
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Agree on something other than Simple Green. WD-40 should work. Or soak in mineral spirits. Honestly, I'm typically game to tackle most any repair project but I don't have any interest in taking apart an old STI lever. Shift quality has improved leaps and bounds since 6500 so there is that too...
12-25-18, 09:03 AM
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The best way to free up the workings of these older STI units is to soak, flush out the dried up factory lube then relube with thin then thicker stuff. "hosing out" or dunking the whole lever/pod portion is quite easy to do. It sounds like you have the flight deck version, the ribbon of wire between the pod and the inside of the lever body. If you don't ever plan to use a Shimano Flight Deck computer then just cut the ribbon, pull out as much as you can and tuck away the rest. We don't bother trying to pull off name plates. But we do remove the lever/pod assembly from the body, if the tiny pivot set screw will loosen. Using a sharp/not worn or ball ended hex wrench helps here. We have never seen a face plate be damaged with the industrial solvent tank soaking we use. Or with Clean Streak, WD40 and Thrust. Andy
When I have cleaned my Dura Ace 7800 Flight Deck levers with Wd-40 the operation of the shifters improved but my Flight Deck is acting all strange. It auto-toggles between different menus. MY LBS mechanic told me that with use, the electrical contacts will clean themselves and proper operation of the Flight Deck sensors will be restored. This didn’t happen. So next time i’m @ Wal-Mart I plan to pick up some contact cleaner.
12-27-18, 01:09 AM
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Simple green
those are good points about the simple green. I’ve liked it around the shop for cleaning frames, what’s picked up stays on the rags. I don’t feel great putting the rags in the trash, I’m going to pass on dumping the stuff into the pipes and go with the wd -40
01-06-24, 01:31 PM
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.1. I saw a recent video, intriguing, about using brake parts cleaner. 2 minutes long.
.2. Electronic parts cleaner might be even better.
Both hopefully avoid the common residue problems described above.
.3. IDEAS NEEDED: In my case, I have a very frozen 2mm set screw underneath that holds in the brake handle lever. Ultegra ST 6510, right side. 2003 Lemond, very well cared for, and always stored indoors. The hardened wrench now just clicks inside the screw body, lefty loosey. I'm looking through my easy-out removers, but I probably don't have any small enough. Any ideas? I'm frustrated, about ready to try drilling out the set screw. I've already bought another Ultegra shifter set on eBay, but cannot remove this shifter until I can dismantle it from the set screw. My last option = cutting the cable (not ideal, but quick and dirty if nothing else works.
.2. Electronic parts cleaner might be even better.
Both hopefully avoid the common residue problems described above.
.3. IDEAS NEEDED: In my case, I have a very frozen 2mm set screw underneath that holds in the brake handle lever. Ultegra ST 6510, right side. 2003 Lemond, very well cared for, and always stored indoors. The hardened wrench now just clicks inside the screw body, lefty loosey. I'm looking through my easy-out removers, but I probably don't have any small enough. Any ideas? I'm frustrated, about ready to try drilling out the set screw. I've already bought another Ultegra shifter set on eBay, but cannot remove this shifter until I can dismantle it from the set screw. My last option = cutting the cable (not ideal, but quick and dirty if nothing else works.
01-06-24, 04:22 PM
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if you can’t even toggle your Shimano STI paddles and “dry run” the shifter
If I recall, Shimano recommends soaking the shifters in alcohol and relubing with Finish Line dry lube.
I would not use Simple Green on aluminum parts and I would not use water based solvent in any event.
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01-06-24, 04:59 PM
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When I have cleaned my Dura Ace 7800 Flight Deck levers with Wd-40 the operation of the shifters improved but my Flight Deck is acting all strange. It auto-toggles between different menus. MY LBS mechanic told me that with use, the electrical contacts will clean themselves and proper operation of the Flight Deck sensors will be restored. This didn’t happen. So next time i’m @ Wal-Mart I plan to pick up some contact cleaner.
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01-07-24, 12:09 AM
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I don't have my 6500 group in front of me, but IIRC, the little faceplate has a screw on top that is exposed by peeling back the hood. Mine were 6503 in case that matters, but I thought all 6500 versions had the same hoods, faceplate, etc. And those parts are interchangable with 5500 105.
There is (or used to be) a guy selling little 3d printed face plates on eBay. I bought some 5+ years ago.
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01-07-24, 10:15 AM
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Simple green will react with aluminum if you leave it too long, but it does a great job of loosening things up. Adding some heat to the process helps also. I find the most common problem for most shifters is the pin for the pawls gets gummed and makes them lazy. A lot of movement usually gets them going.
01-07-24, 11:29 AM
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Simple green will react with aluminum if you leave it too long, but it does a great job of loosening things up. Adding some heat to the process helps also. I find the most common problem for most shifters is the pin for the pawls gets gummed and makes them lazy. A lot of movement usually gets them going.
6500 is 9 speed
I don't have my 6500 group in front of me, but IIRC, the little faceplate has a screw on top that is exposed by peeling back the hood. Mine were 6503 in case that matters, but I thought all 6500 versions had the same hoods, faceplate, etc. And those parts are interchangable with 5500 105.
There is (or used to be) a guy selling little 3d printed face plates on eBay. I bought some 5+ years ago.
I don't have my 6500 group in front of me, but IIRC, the little faceplate has a screw on top that is exposed by peeling back the hood. Mine were 6503 in case that matters, but I thought all 6500 versions had the same hoods, faceplate, etc. And those parts are interchangable with 5500 105.
There is (or used to be) a guy selling little 3d printed face plates on eBay. I bought some 5+ years ago.
its easier to dry run the shifter by putting a cable in there and pulling on the cable.
If I recall, Shimano recommends soaking the shifters in alcohol and relubing with Finish Line dry lube.
I would not use Simple Green on aluminum parts and I would not use water based solvent in any event.
If I recall, Shimano recommends soaking the shifters in alcohol and relubing with Finish Line dry lube.
I would not use Simple Green on aluminum parts and I would not use water based solvent in any event.
You guys are addressing the original old issue, from another 'non-active' poster.
The current issue is in post #9. Likely the grub screw, holding the brake pivot axle in place, which is stuck and possibly stripped.
01-07-24, 11:42 AM
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.1. I saw a recent video, intriguing, about using brake parts cleaner. 2 minutes long.
.2. Electronic parts cleaner might be even better.
Both hopefully avoid the common residue problems described above.
.3. IDEAS NEEDED: In my case, I have a very frozen 2mm set screw underneath that holds in the brake handle lever. Ultegra ST 6510, right side. 2003 Lemond, very well cared for, and always stored indoors. The hardened wrench now just clicks inside the screw body, lefty loosey. I'm looking through my easy-out removers, but I probably don't have any small enough. Any ideas? I'm frustrated, about ready to try drilling out the set screw. I've already bought another Ultegra shifter set on eBay, but cannot remove this shifter until I can dismantle it from the set screw. My last option = cutting the cable (not ideal, but quick and dirty if nothing else works.
.2. Electronic parts cleaner might be even better.
Both hopefully avoid the common residue problems described above.
.3. IDEAS NEEDED: In my case, I have a very frozen 2mm set screw underneath that holds in the brake handle lever. Ultegra ST 6510, right side. 2003 Lemond, very well cared for, and always stored indoors. The hardened wrench now just clicks inside the screw body, lefty loosey. I'm looking through my easy-out removers, but I probably don't have any small enough. Any ideas? I'm frustrated, about ready to try drilling out the set screw. I've already bought another Ultegra shifter set on eBay, but cannot remove this shifter until I can dismantle it from the set screw. My last option = cutting the cable (not ideal, but quick and dirty if nothing else works.
If you can get some 'purchase', a little heat on the screw may help to loosen the threadlock.
01-10-24, 10:50 AM
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This question was originally posted in 2018. Presumably, after five years, the OP has either fixed the problem or moved on to something else.
