Shifting Issues Kona Caldera XC Hardtail
#1
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Shifting Issues Kona Caldera XC Hardtail
Shifting issues - while the bike will easily and reliably go to a smaller cog on the cassette it does not always like to shift to larger cogs. This gets worse the colder it gets. The same thing happens with the front derailleur but no where nearly as severe as with the rear derailleur. Possible causes fixes? The bike itself is a 2008 (I think based on the components) Kona Caldera XC Hardtail so Shimano components, I suspect.
#2
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Knowing which components could be useful.
If you have a Low Normal RDER, you'd have symptoms of a RDER cable that needs lube.
If you have a Low Normal RDER, you'd have symptoms of a RDER cable that needs lube.
#4
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Ok, Shimano deore XT shifters, I can't see any frays in the cable, and if I pull on the exposed part of the cable it does pull in the rear derailleur.
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Maybe start with a good component cleaning and light oil lube, making sure that it is cold weather rated. You can lube the cable with TriFlo but if you suspect internal fraying, just replace them.
Last, check for the odd chance that the derailleur hanger is bent
Last, check for the odd chance that the derailleur hanger is bent
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If not, expose the inner at the shifter end, and hold it while using the shifter, does anything happen, if not, replace the shifter (again unlikely)
Is the cable hung up on anything in its routing?
Most likely from the limited info given, the cables need a lube, or even better, replacement, you can buy a Shimano MTB deraileur cable pack which include all inners, outers and ferrules etc (The cable outers will be marked SP41)
#7
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I suspect the shifters are fine and since the OP won't mention the Model# of the RDER to determine if it's High or Low Normal.....
WHAT VERSION of Deore XT? They covered a bunch or years/speeds and various other details......
WHAT VERSION of Deore XT? They covered a bunch or years/speeds and various other details......
#8
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Honestly I just don't know. I was looking for a model # earlier but couldn't find it. I bought the bike used from my LBS.
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Edit: or, here is the 2008 XT group. Does your derailleur look like one of them (and, if so, which one)?
Last edited by hokiefyd; 11-13-19 at 06:45 AM.
#10
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The model number of the rear derailleur should be on the inner linkage plate. It should start with "RD", and would read something like "RD-M737" or similar.
Edit: or, here is the 2008 XT group. Does your derailleur look like one of them (and, if so, which one)?
Edit: or, here is the 2008 XT group. Does your derailleur look like one of them (and, if so, which one)?
Apparently the model # is RD-M761
Last edited by liampboyle; 11-13-19 at 09:40 AM.
#11
Really Old Senior Member
Since that's a high or top "normal", poulling cable moc=ves it to a larger cog.
Give the barrel adjuster a click or 2 CCW.
Go to far and it won't want to shift to a smaller cog. Split the diff.
Give the barrel adjuster a click or 2 CCW.
Go to far and it won't want to shift to a smaller cog. Split the diff.
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Thanks; that's good info. According to the Disraeli Gears site, that's a 2006 era derailleur, so would be consistent with a bike built near that time frame.
Shimano Deore XT derailleur (M761 SGS)
I think Bill's suggestion of unscrewing the barrel adjuster (CCW) a few clicks or even a full turn is the right idea.
Shimano Deore XT derailleur (M761 SGS)
I think Bill's suggestion of unscrewing the barrel adjuster (CCW) a few clicks or even a full turn is the right idea.
#13
Senior Member
If after staring at it, cleaning it, adjusting it, lubing it and using a hammer on it it still doesn't work well, replace the cable and housing. I had a thread about similar issues about a month ago and everyone kept saying to replace the cable. After trying everything else I replaced the cable (luckily I found a new cable/housing set in my basement!) and all is good. My bike was a lot older though and left out in the weather for a few years, a 1990 Trek. It doesn't take much rust or dirt to completely gum up the housing.
#14
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I did the barrel adjustment (2 clicks) and it didn't do much of anything. I have a Jones H-Bar on the way to replace the flatbar anyway, so instead of installing it myself, I'll take the bike into the LBS to have it done and have them replace the cables at the same time.
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I did the barrel adjustment (2 clicks) and it didn't do much of anything. I have a Jones H-Bar on the way to replace the flatbar anyway, so instead of installing it myself, I'll take the bike into the LBS to have it done and have them replace the cables at the same time.
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I'd start by shifting to about the middle of the cassette and eye-balling the chain on its sprocket, from the rear of the bike. Is the derailleur's jockey wheel exactly centered on the sprocket? It really should be. There's some tolerance allowed, but you really do want it centered there. Turn the barrel adjuster until it is -- CCW to move the derailleur in towards the bike (pulling more cable, essentially), and CW to move the derailleur out from the bike (loosening the cable). It sounds like you're having trouble with the derailleur moving enough to get a good downshift (to a larger sprocket), so it sounds like the derailleur may not be centered under each sprocket. Of course, there could be a variety of other issues, but this is an easy place to start.
You should, at the very least, be able to influence shifting quality somehow with that barrel adjuster. If it seems like you can turn it and turn it and nothing changes, then something else may be going on.
You should, at the very least, be able to influence shifting quality somehow with that barrel adjuster. If it seems like you can turn it and turn it and nothing changes, then something else may be going on.
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