1970s Dawes Galaxy Update
03-21-22, 11:12 AM
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1970s Dawes Galaxy Update
Starting a new thread as the old one is now obsolete. I initially started out trying to find a new/smaller frame and ultimately (from the advice from folks in this forum) realized my frame was fine with some minor tweaks. I have since swapped out a shorter stem, rotated my bars, and moved my hoods and think this will solve my reach issue at least 95%. If not, the next step would be to get a shorter reach bar (SOMA Highway One or Nitto Noodle). Which brings this thread up to date from the old one - now I have had a BB issue with my cottered spindle and so far have been unsuccessful in finding a suitable replacement. At this point I want to ride the bike and the easiest solution seems to be to convert it to a sealed square-tapered bottom bracket, which also means a new crankset. I'm looking now for something comparable to what I have, that looks vintage such as Velo-Orange or TA Specialties, however the largest outer chainring anyone seems to offer is a 48, but I currently have a 52. Are there any new vintage looking options that offer a 52? I prefer not to buy used. If I have to go to a 48 I'll need to change out my freewheel from a 5 to a 6, 7 or a cassette as the gearing won't work as well for me. I also picked up some dura-ace bar end shifters this past weekend which will work indexed or friction, so moving to a cassette and going indexed is a possibility I was hoping not to have to do everything all at once. Any thoughts/recommendations are welcome!
03-21-22, 11:18 AM
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What are the dimensions of the cottered spindle you need to replace? I have a couple from older projects that I never plan to use, so you can have one for the cost of shipping if it matches what you need.
03-21-22, 11:37 AM
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2= 13/16" / 20.6mm
3= 2.25" / 57.2mm
4= 1 1/8 / 28.6mm
03-21-22, 11:47 AM
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How high a top gear do you need? 48/13 = 52/14 = 100 gear-inches, which for decades was the default top gear for most road bikes. I happily use 46/13 = 50/14 = 96 on two of my road bikes.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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03-21-22, 12:00 PM
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It's less about the top gear and more about how I like to ride now in 52/24 on recovery days, 52/20 when I want to take it easy like commuting to work, or 52/16 when I want to push it a bit (like on my way home from work). 52/14 I rarely use except when sprinting or going downhill, but I figure my other gears are going to feel 20% easier if I have to resort to a 48. I live in Florida so it's pretty darn flat - I shift down more due to leg soreness or wind than hills. If I have to go to a 48 I see that I can get a 7 speed freewheel (Shimano Tourney MF-T500-7) and it sounds like possibly continue to use friction shifting with it though.
03-21-22, 12:46 PM
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03-21-22, 01:03 PM
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Replacement rings would be an answer for whatever crank you get.
Watch the C&V FS sub-forum for a much less expensive than new crankset, or visit that bike Coop. Maybe ease your esthetic requirements a bit, too.
if you were in the Seattle area, I’d visit Bike Works (https://bikeworks.org) where I volunteer, with you to find a suitable combination of crankset, rings and bottom bracket). If you were in Portland, OR there are similar places filled with great used bikes and parts.
Also strongly recommend that you create a gearing chart, then look at options with a smaller big chain ring. Suspect that you’d discover that your favorite gearing combinations are quite possible with other combinations.
Edit: Your last post in the previous thread says that you’ve been to that coop. No suitable cranks there?
Watch the C&V FS sub-forum for a much less expensive than new crankset, or visit that bike Coop. Maybe ease your esthetic requirements a bit, too.
if you were in the Seattle area, I’d visit Bike Works (https://bikeworks.org) where I volunteer, with you to find a suitable combination of crankset, rings and bottom bracket). If you were in Portland, OR there are similar places filled with great used bikes and parts.
Also strongly recommend that you create a gearing chart, then look at options with a smaller big chain ring. Suspect that you’d discover that your favorite gearing combinations are quite possible with other combinations.
Edit: Your last post in the previous thread says that you’ve been to that coop. No suitable cranks there?
Last edited by Dfrost; 03-21-22 at 01:09 PM.
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03-21-22, 01:22 PM
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Replacement rings would be an answer for whatever crank you get.
Watch the C&V FS sub-forum for a much less expensive than new crankset, or visit that bike Coop. Maybe ease your esthetic requirements a bit, too.
if you were in the Seattle area, I’d visit Bike Works (https://bikeworks.org) where I volunteer, with you to find a suitable combination of crankset, rings and bottom bracket). If you were in Portland, OR there are similar places filled with great used bikes and parts.
Also strongly recommend that you create a gearing chart, then look at options with a smaller big chain ring. Suspect that you’d discover that your favorite gearing combinations are quite possible with other combinations.
Edit: Your last post in the previous thread says that you’ve been to that coop. No suitable cranks there?
Watch the C&V FS sub-forum for a much less expensive than new crankset, or visit that bike Coop. Maybe ease your esthetic requirements a bit, too.
if you were in the Seattle area, I’d visit Bike Works (https://bikeworks.org) where I volunteer, with you to find a suitable combination of crankset, rings and bottom bracket). If you were in Portland, OR there are similar places filled with great used bikes and parts.
Also strongly recommend that you create a gearing chart, then look at options with a smaller big chain ring. Suspect that you’d discover that your favorite gearing combinations are quite possible with other combinations.
Edit: Your last post in the previous thread says that you’ve been to that coop. No suitable cranks there?
03-21-22, 01:45 PM
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Well, shoot, I'm sorry to have gotten your hopes up, but I must have donated it in a past run to the co-op. I could have sworn I still had a couple of cottered spindles, but they are nowhere to be found.
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03-21-22, 02:42 PM
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03-21-22, 03:28 PM
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To be fair - I only looked for the spindle and spent a significant amount of time digging through the pile of parts. At that point I already had another spindle on the way and was hoping I could make what I had work. Maybe it is a good idea to go back there and see what they have now that I'm leaning towards replacing the BB, etc... you wouldn't buy new? I made the chart for 52 vs 48 and the 48 could work I think so long as I switch to a 6 or 7 freewheel from the 5 I have now. I would not want to ride (for long) with the 48 and my current 5sp freewheel though. I live in gears 6-9 95% of the time and maybe split the other 5% between sprinting in 10 or a mix of lower gears if I have to climb a bridge. If anything I'd like more top gear, not less. Maybe I'll try to get those barend shifters on tonight and then head to the coop tomorrow when they open.
I’m not a fan of any of the current new cranks other than the ones you’ve mentioned and those have gotten pricey. Sugino XD-whatever are fine.
I’ve installed plenty of used square taper cranks in 7 years rebuilding bikes for Bike Works. Never had a problem that wasn’t obvious. The challenge is to be sure the BB length is appropriate for the crank.
Sealed bearing square taper BB are either obviously bad (crunchy bearings) or fine. Just be sure to get the corresponding NDS part. Any of the Shimano varieties seem to be good. Again, I’ve used plenty of those in rebuilt bikes. OTOH, we recently had a subtle problem with one of the newer style splined BB (Octalink XX?) Not a fan, and I wasn’t before that experience, either.
Rings I’d probably get new (for middle and large, used stainless granny rings are fine) and I choose expensive TA rings that last a long time, but that’s just me. I’ve sold quite a few used rings inexpensively through our sub-forum, and hope that they’ve been good buys for the purchasers.
03-21-22, 04:48 PM
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I’d definitely buy a used crank or BB if: A. I could physically examine the parts as with either of the fitted used cranks on my bikes, or B. Purchased from a C&V member, from whom I’ve never had a poor transaction (think that’s been essentially true for all of us on C&V). Pretty sure my only new crankset was the one purchased with my new Klein frame in 1992.
I’m not a fan of any of the current new cranks other than the ones you’ve mentioned and those have gotten pricey. Sugino XD-whatever are fine.
I’ve installed plenty of used square taper cranks in 7 years rebuilding bikes for Bike Works. Never had a problem that wasn’t obvious. The challenge is to be sure the BB length is appropriate for the crank.
Sealed bearing square taper BB are either obviously bad (crunchy bearings) or fine. Just be sure to get the corresponding NDS part. Any of the Shimano varieties seem to be good. Again, I’ve used plenty of those in rebuilt bikes. OTOH, we recently had a subtle problem with one of the newer style splined BB (Octalink XX?) Not a fan, and I wasn’t before that experience, either.
Rings I’d probably get new (for middle and large, used stainless granny rings are fine) and I choose expensive TA rings that last a long time, but that’s just me. I’ve sold quite a few used rings inexpensively through our sub-forum, and hope that they’ve been good buys for the purchasers.
I’m not a fan of any of the current new cranks other than the ones you’ve mentioned and those have gotten pricey. Sugino XD-whatever are fine.
I’ve installed plenty of used square taper cranks in 7 years rebuilding bikes for Bike Works. Never had a problem that wasn’t obvious. The challenge is to be sure the BB length is appropriate for the crank.
Sealed bearing square taper BB are either obviously bad (crunchy bearings) or fine. Just be sure to get the corresponding NDS part. Any of the Shimano varieties seem to be good. Again, I’ve used plenty of those in rebuilt bikes. OTOH, we recently had a subtle problem with one of the newer style splined BB (Octalink XX?) Not a fan, and I wasn’t before that experience, either.
Rings I’d probably get new (for middle and large, used stainless granny rings are fine) and I choose expensive TA rings that last a long time, but that’s just me. I’ve sold quite a few used rings inexpensively through our sub-forum, and hope that they’ve been good buys for the purchasers.
03-21-22, 05:25 PM
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Since now I've got a cottered spindle coming that should work - I guess I'm going to ride what I've got for a while longer. My chainrings don't look great, I tried to clean them up a bit but they still look pretty battered. Here's some pics. Looks like I can't change the rings without also changing the crank? Is that normal? Since I have the cottered spindle already on its way, I'll be keeping the cottered cranks. Also here is a pic of the bar end shifters I ended up picking up. So eventually may try to update the rear drivetrain to index shifting or at least a 7 speed freewheel. My main goal now is to get the bike back on the road and riding it. Then I need to prioritize the potential upgrades/work. With a new spindle/BB put together, I may see about swapping the wheels to 700c and freehub with cassette. Right now I have 27 1 1/4, they don't match, and one does not have hooks/hoops (?) in the rim so I have to ride it at a lower PSI. Hoping maybe I could gain a little more clearance as well so maybe up the tire size or at least go with a decent size tire and some fenders.
Slather, sit, scrub and repeat, small stainless and or brass bristle brush.
These will clean up well and yep, likely no chainring swapping on these, there are probably some floating around but most will be the same as you have or only a tooth or two different.
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03-21-22, 05:30 PM
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All good suggestions below, however, another possible route...shallow cake pan (thrift store teflon onesw are the best) with evaporust for 24 hours. rinse in hot water while using a 3M pad. Then bar keeps friend with a toothbrush and a 3m pad again. Sometimes I have resorted to the foil and BKF as well.
And then I buy a new part...I kid I kid...sort of.
And then I buy a new part...I kid I kid...sort of.
Turtle wax rust remover and chrome cleaner will get at least half of that off, green plastic bottle, chain auto parts store, Auto zone, Pep boys, etc.
Slather, sit, scrub and repeat, small stainless and or brass bristle brush.
These will clean up well and yep, likely no chainring swapping on these, there are probably some floating around but most will be the same as you have or only a tooth or two different.
Slather, sit, scrub and repeat, small stainless and or brass bristle brush.
These will clean up well and yep, likely no chainring swapping on these, there are probably some floating around but most will be the same as you have or only a tooth or two different.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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03-21-22, 05:35 PM
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ok, I'll try all of those techniques. I have some time until the spindle gets here anyways and I am still figuring out how to install the bar end shifters
03-22-22, 11:01 AM
#19
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I'm following this thread since I have discussed the same issues about frame size and settled on mine as well. I'll be looking for a shorter stem, and currently keeping the cottered crankset although I'd like to replace the 42T with something smaller to tackle the hills in my area. I'm not blessed with flat terrain as you are in FL.
pic of my '72 Galaxy a work in progress
pic of my '72 Galaxy a work in progress
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03-23-22, 06:26 AM
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Nice bike! I'll keep the cottered cranks once the new spindle shows up so I can focus on other items. Have you looked into wheel sizes? I read on another post someone had 700c and the brakes couldn't reach the rim, which makes me think I'll probably just stick with 27" wheels. Once I figure out the wheels, my next decision is to stay with a freewheel or move to a cassette. The bar end shifters I bought are capable of index shifting and they are 9 speed shifters so I'm honestly not sure the 'best' path yet. I'd really like to get modern/sealed wheels so they'll match, have hooks for the tire, and not require regular servicing. For a stem, I ordered a Nitto Technomic 26.0 60mm 72d Silver 225mm 1" Quill and it seems to work great (and it's dropped in price by $10 since I ordered mine 
) Amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Technom...ng%2C59&sr=1-1
) Amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Technom...ng%2C59&sr=1-1
03-23-22, 06:40 AM
#21
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Nice bike! I'll keep the cottered cranks once the new spindle shows up so I can focus on other items. Have you looked into wheel sizes? I read on another post someone had 700c and the brakes couldn't reach the rim, which makes me think I'll probably just stick with 27" wheels. Once I figure out the wheels, my next decision is to stay with a freewheel or move to a cassette. The bar end shifters I bought are capable of index shifting and they are 9 speed shifters so I'm honestly not sure the 'best' path yet. I'd really like to get modern/sealed wheels so they'll match, have hooks for the tire, and not require regular servicing. For a stem, I ordered a Nitto
Thanx for the info on the stem. I measured the original it I believe it was 4" or so, so the 2-3/4" of that Nitto would be an improvement. But I really need to do some more sorting and get more seat time to know what I really need. I've been thinking about bar-ends but right now I just sourced some Sunrace stem shifters (cheap, and came with cable since I need those too) to replace the flexy and broken Simplex shifters.
Last edited by swampyankee2; 03-23-22 at 06:42 AM. Reason: typos
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03-23-22, 06:48 AM
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I'm using the original rims which are 27" with the "Sunshine" wide flange hubs. I'm happy with them, although the front spindle bearing races are a bit pitted. I hope to resurface them in a lathe at work (nice perk of being an Engineer in the tool and die business) I mounted 27x1-1/8 Panaracer Pasela tyres on the rims and like the way they ride.
Thanx for the info on the stem. I measured the original it I believe it was 4" or so, so the 2-3/4" of that Nitto would be an improvement. But I really need to do some more sorting and get more seat time to know what I really need. I've been thinking about bar-ends but right now I just sourced some Sunrace stem shifters (cheap, and came with cable since I need those too) to replace the flexy and broken Simplex shifters.
Thanx for the info on the stem. I measured the original it I believe it was 4" or so, so the 2-3/4" of that Nitto would be an improvement. But I really need to do some more sorting and get more seat time to know what I really need. I've been thinking about bar-ends but right now I just sourced some Sunrace stem shifters (cheap, and came with cable since I need those too) to replace the flexy and broken Simplex shifters.
03-23-22, 07:38 AM
#23
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My Dawes came to me with 27 x 1-1/4 tires. plenty of room in the rear, at least 1/2" clearance overall between the forks.
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03-23-22, 01:31 PM
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@ericlowney, Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but… The Dura-Ace 9-speed bar end shifters you purchased are excellent and should work fine in friction mode with just about anything you’d put on your Dawes. But they won’t index a 7-speed cassette, unless you go to the effort to swap the 7-speed spacers for thinner 9-speed with an extra thin spacer to make up the difference. If what you purchased are returnable (or you could resell them) I could probably find a 7-speed or friction-only set of bar ends at a very reasonable price for you where I volunteer. Or you could post a WTB (Wanted To Buy) on the C&V Sales sub-forum.
Or you could spread your rear triangle to 130mm (it’s very likely 120mm now) for a modern 700C wheel with 130mm cassette hub, which would be a good idea for downstream changes or use on a future frame. Then use a 9-speed cassette. That coop near you probably could supply the wheels, cassette and compatible indexable rear derailleur (basically just about any modern Shimano RD other than DA 7400-series).
You mentioned getting a very short 26.0mm Nitto stem. Are you aware that handlebars have different clamping diameters (26.0, 25.4 and Cinelli’s 26.4mm are typical with classic road bikes) and must match the stem clamping diameter (smaller diameterbars can be shimmed)? (Apologies if that is condescending)
Or you could spread your rear triangle to 130mm (it’s very likely 120mm now) for a modern 700C wheel with 130mm cassette hub, which would be a good idea for downstream changes or use on a future frame. Then use a 9-speed cassette. That coop near you probably could supply the wheels, cassette and compatible indexable rear derailleur (basically just about any modern Shimano RD other than DA 7400-series).
You mentioned getting a very short 26.0mm Nitto stem. Are you aware that handlebars have different clamping diameters (26.0, 25.4 and Cinelli’s 26.4mm are typical with classic road bikes) and must match the stem clamping diameter (smaller diameterbars can be shimmed)? (Apologies if that is condescending)
Last edited by Dfrost; 03-23-22 at 01:38 PM.
03-23-22, 03:31 PM
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@ericlowney, Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but… The Dura-Ace 9-speed bar end shifters you purchased are excellent and should work fine in friction mode with just about anything you’d put on your Dawes. But they won’t index a 7-speed cassette, unless you go to the effort to swap the 7-speed spacers for thinner 9-speed with an extra thin spacer to make up the difference. If what you purchased are returnable (or you could resell them) I could probably find a 7-speed or friction-only set of bar ends at a very reasonable price for you where I volunteer. Or you could post a WTB (Wanted To Buy) on the C&V Sales sub-forum.
Or you could spread your rear triangle to 130mm (it’s very likely 120mm now) for a modern 700C wheel with 130mm cassette hub, which would be a good idea for downstream changes or use on a future frame. Then use a 9-speed cassette. That coop near you probably could supply the wheels, cassette and compatible indexable rear derailleur (basically just about any modern Shimano RD other than DA 7400-series).
You mentioned getting a very short 26.0mm Nitto stem. Are you aware that handlebars have different clamping diameters (26.0, 25.4 and Cinelli’s 26.4mm are typical with classic road bikes) and must match the stem clamping diameter (smaller diameterbars can be shimmed)? (Apologies if that is condescending)
Or you could spread your rear triangle to 130mm (it’s very likely 120mm now) for a modern 700C wheel with 130mm cassette hub, which would be a good idea for downstream changes or use on a future frame. Then use a 9-speed cassette. That coop near you probably could supply the wheels, cassette and compatible indexable rear derailleur (basically just about any modern Shimano RD other than DA 7400-series).
You mentioned getting a very short 26.0mm Nitto stem. Are you aware that handlebars have different clamping diameters (26.0, 25.4 and Cinelli’s 26.4mm are typical with classic road bikes) and must match the stem clamping diameter (smaller diameterbars can be shimmed)? (Apologies if that is condescending)
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