Recommend a metric tap set please
07-10-23, 07:04 AM
#1
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Recommend a metric tap set please
Looking for a basic metric tap set. I need to chase a pair of eyelets on a bike and figure it's time to buy a set of taps. This is not something I use very often so I want to keep this fairly basic and minimal.
07-10-23, 07:14 AM
#2
Banned.
Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set, but I would just buy the sizes you need in a higher quality. Ace Hardware sells them, and of course, Park. Grainger also carries good taps.
07-10-23, 07:15 AM
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there are not that many thread sizes that a bike uses, I would buy as needed individually. And a few dies too, namely, M6, M10x1
the 3mm as used on Campagnolo dropouts is most probably going to be pretty special in any case. Buy that best you can for that one.
a good quality tap handle, thinking one with a two jaw chuck eases use. I found mine at an estate sale of a model railroad enthusiast.
07-10-23, 07:17 AM
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Forgot, M10-1 is typical for a dropout EXCEPT Campagnolo, 10x26tpi the engagement threading length allows the fudge.
07-10-23, 08:01 AM
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I concur with buying individual taps. I have a Craftsman tap and die set that I bought years ago, but other than one time when I used it to fix a car, I only use the M5, M6, and occasionally the M4 sizes. I don't have an M10x1 or a 9/16 pedal tap, but they could be useful, as well.
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07-10-23, 08:24 AM
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One thing to consider is that with cheap carbon-steel taps, although they break more easily, if they do you can (depending on circumstances) anneal them and then get the bits out.
(EDM is often the only way to get a broken HSS tap out.)
(EDM is often the only way to get a broken HSS tap out.)
07-10-23, 10:01 AM
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I've bought taps individually and have found that three are most important/useful: M5 x 0.8 for dropout eyelets and water bottle bosses, M6 x 1.0 for various fender mounts and canti posts, M10 x 1.0 for derailleur hangers. Park Tools is a good source for high quality taps: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/search?q=tap
07-10-23, 10:43 AM
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If you plan to use more than 1 or 2 times, avoid the Harbor Freight sets......
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07-10-23, 02:30 PM
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if for a bike, I would avoid the harbor fright sets, cheap but not that good. At least in the last 15 years.
there are not that many thread sizes that a bike uses, I would buy as needed individually. And a few dies too, namely, M6, M10x1
the 3mm as used on Campagnolo dropouts is most probably going to be pretty special in any case. Buy that best you can for that one.
a good quality tap handle, thinking one with a two jaw chuck eases use. I found mine at an estate sale of a model railroad enthusiast.
there are not that many thread sizes that a bike uses, I would buy as needed individually. And a few dies too, namely, M6, M10x1
the 3mm as used on Campagnolo dropouts is most probably going to be pretty special in any case. Buy that best you can for that one.
a good quality tap handle, thinking one with a two jaw chuck eases use. I found mine at an estate sale of a model railroad enthusiast.
I have pedal taps and a bottom bracket tap but seldom use either. I have used the pedal taps to shorten and thread cranks for my tandem and the bottom bracket tool to chase threads on my wife’s bike but they really are seldom used and not really worth the cost.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 07-10-23 at 02:52 PM.
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07-10-23, 09:26 PM
#11
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Hanson (Irwin) sells a reasonably priced set of metric taps that you can get at most big-box stores. They will not stand up to repeated use, especially in hard materials (or clearing powder coat 
), but will work well enough to get you through what most home-mechanics are using them for. "Half a turn forward, quarter turn back...that's the way we like to tap!" And make sure you use the appropriate size pilot if you are tapping new holes...taps really don't like being in undersized holes.
HSS is overkill, unless you are tapping new holes in hardened metals...though I have used the above cheapies to (very stupidly) oversize a stripped oil port hole in a coaster brake hub shell. It worked, but probably only because the material was ~3/16" thick, and already had a hole in it. Emboldened by my success, I tried to do the same with a shell that didn't have a hole, and started with a center-punch. It flattened (not blunted) my centerpunch, and didn't even scratch the surface. I'm sure a carbide scribe would've marked it, but also probably would have fractured the tip. Since the surplus guy closed his stall at the flea market, I've been trying to stretch my $0.99 scribes as far as possible.
), but will work well enough to get you through what most home-mechanics are using them for. "Half a turn forward, quarter turn back...that's the way we like to tap!" And make sure you use the appropriate size pilot if you are tapping new holes...taps really don't like being in undersized holes.HSS is overkill, unless you are tapping new holes in hardened metals...though I have used the above cheapies to (very stupidly) oversize a stripped oil port hole in a coaster brake hub shell. It worked, but probably only because the material was ~3/16" thick, and already had a hole in it. Emboldened by my success, I tried to do the same with a shell that didn't have a hole, and started with a center-punch. It flattened (not blunted) my centerpunch, and didn't even scratch the surface. I'm sure a carbide scribe would've marked it, but also probably would have fractured the tip. Since the surplus guy closed his stall at the flea market, I've been trying to stretch my $0.99 scribes as far as possible.
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07-11-23, 01:20 AM
#12
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For best results use a proper tapping fluid like Rapid Tap or Tap Magic.
And follow the advice above to tap a little bit at a time, frequently backing off the tap to break the swarf.
If the tap gets really tight and difficult to turn, back it completely out of the hole and clean the debris from the tap and from the hole.
Forcing a tap may cause it to break off inside the hole = no fun to remedy.
And follow the advice above to tap a little bit at a time, frequently backing off the tap to break the swarf.
If the tap gets really tight and difficult to turn, back it completely out of the hole and clean the debris from the tap and from the hole.
Forcing a tap may cause it to break off inside the hole = no fun to remedy.
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07-11-23, 04:08 AM
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I bought this set from Amazon (again, mostly chasing existing threads):
EFFICERE 40-Piece Premium Tap and Die Set - Metric Size M3, M4, M5, M6, M7, M8, M10, M12, Both Coarse and Fine Teeth | Essential Threading Tool Kit with Complete Handles, Accessories and Storage Case https://a.co/d/bVdSc2o
and separately, an M10x1:
Drill America DWTSMT10X1 m10 x 1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD5NRBK...p_mob_ap_share
They've been fine for my modest needs so far. If I needed to cut new threads I'd buy something better. If I was cutting threads in stainless steel, I'd certainly go for high quality taps.
EFFICERE 40-Piece Premium Tap and Die Set - Metric Size M3, M4, M5, M6, M7, M8, M10, M12, Both Coarse and Fine Teeth | Essential Threading Tool Kit with Complete Handles, Accessories and Storage Case https://a.co/d/bVdSc2o
and separately, an M10x1:
Drill America DWTSMT10X1 m10 x 1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD5NRBK...p_mob_ap_share
They've been fine for my modest needs so far. If I needed to cut new threads I'd buy something better. If I was cutting threads in stainless steel, I'd certainly go for high quality taps.
07-11-23, 05:59 AM
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Hanson (Irwin) sells a reasonably priced set of metric taps that you can get at most big-box stores. They will not stand up to repeated use, especially in hard materials (or clearing powder coat ), but will work well enough to get you through what most home-mechanics are using them for. "Half a turn forward, quarter turn back...that's the way we like to tap!" And make sure you use the appropriate size pilot if you are tapping new holes...taps really don't like being in undersized holes.
HSS is overkill, unless you are tapping new holes in hardened metals...though I have used the above cheapies to (very stupidly) oversize a stripped oil port hole in a coaster brake hub shell. It worked, but probably only because the material was ~3/16" thick, and already had a hole in it. Emboldened by my success, I tried to do the same with a shell that didn't have a hole, and started with a center-punch. It flattened (not blunted) my centerpunch, and didn't even scratch the surface. I'm sure a carbide scribe would've marked it, but also probably would have fractured the tip. Since the surplus guy closed his stall at the flea market, I've been trying to stretch my $0.99 scribes as far as possible.
), but will work well enough to get you through what most home-mechanics are using them for. "Half a turn forward, quarter turn back...that's the way we like to tap!" And make sure you use the appropriate size pilot if you are tapping new holes...taps really don't like being in undersized holes.HSS is overkill, unless you are tapping new holes in hardened metals...though I have used the above cheapies to (very stupidly) oversize a stripped oil port hole in a coaster brake hub shell. It worked, but probably only because the material was ~3/16" thick, and already had a hole in it. Emboldened by my success, I tried to do the same with a shell that didn't have a hole, and started with a center-punch. It flattened (not blunted) my centerpunch, and didn't even scratch the surface. I'm sure a carbide scribe would've marked it, but also probably would have fractured the tip. Since the surplus guy closed his stall at the flea market, I've been trying to stretch my $0.99 scribes as far as possible.
07-11-23, 08:26 AM
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Add me to the “buy what you need” bandwagon. I have an HF set and it has worked fine for me since I mostly clean up threads but it is missing a couple of sizes common on bikes.
Don’t skip the cutting fluid. It’s cheap and a small bottle will last a very long time.
Don’t skip the cutting fluid. It’s cheap and a small bottle will last a very long time.
