Perfectly Symetrical Brake Lever Alignment... How?
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Perfectly Symetrical Brake Lever Alignment... How?
Despite all the hubbub about the UCI planning to ban riders from having their brake hoods pointed inward, I've been riding with my hoods angled slightly inwards for two years now and love it. (And I don't race, so UCI's decision doesn't impact me.) However, every time I get on my bike, I swear that one lever is angled in slightly more than the other and that makes me bonkers.
Have any of you found a way to ensure perfectly symmetrical alignment of both levers other than the "eyeball it" method I've been using?
Making sure both levers are mounted at the same height on the bars and the same angle inwards has so far proven to be a task my puny brain can't handle. YouTuber "Rides of Japan" has the same burning desire for perfection as I do and he
... however, I think his video came out before angling brake hoods inward became a thing. Thus, his video doesn't address perfectly aligning the angle of each lever... his are straight forward.
My "eyeballed" inward levers...
********* Solution Found **********
YouTuber GC Performance created the following video showing the tool he uses for perfect brake hood alignment. Me likey...
Have any of you found a way to ensure perfectly symmetrical alignment of both levers other than the "eyeball it" method I've been using?
Making sure both levers are mounted at the same height on the bars and the same angle inwards has so far proven to be a task my puny brain can't handle. YouTuber "Rides of Japan" has the same burning desire for perfection as I do and he
My "eyeballed" inward levers...
********* Solution Found **********
YouTuber GC Performance created the following video showing the tool he uses for perfect brake hood alignment. Me likey...
Last edited by PoorInRichfield; 01-01-24 at 04:42 PM.
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One of my arms is slightly longer than the other, and one of my hands is slightly larger than the other.... and I have a girlfriend...
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Seems to me as a question that can be answered by the OP trying to realign one lever to match the other, trial and error like. Andy
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https://www.abbeybiketools.com/products/lever-setter
With the Abbey adapter, a derailleur hanger alignment tool, and a protractor, you could probably satisfy your need with data-verified symmetry. There are probably cheaper ways to accomplish the same thing.
With the Abbey adapter, a derailleur hanger alignment tool, and a protractor, you could probably satisfy your need with data-verified symmetry. There are probably cheaper ways to accomplish the same thing.
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Last edited by Eric F; 12-21-23 at 06:26 PM.
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I empathize with the OP because I also have mad OCD. So:
(1) To mount both STI levers at the same height, I stretch a ribbon (a) between the ramps of the handlebar and (b) resting against both STI lever band clamps, and I eyeball the ribbon to make sure it is perfectly parallel to the top of the handlebar.
(2) To mount both STI levers at the same rotational angle, I measure the distance from the brake lever pivot of each STI lever to a point at the transition between the top and the ramp on the opposite side of the handlebar.
Because of my mad OCD, my eyeballing is pretty precise. But before I install the bar tape, I ride slowly around my community to make sure that both STI levers feel the same to me. Now of course it goes without saying that all of the above first requires the handlebar to be perfectly centered relative to the stem, and for the stem to be perfectly aligned with the front wheel.
(1) To mount both STI levers at the same height, I stretch a ribbon (a) between the ramps of the handlebar and (b) resting against both STI lever band clamps, and I eyeball the ribbon to make sure it is perfectly parallel to the top of the handlebar.
(2) To mount both STI levers at the same rotational angle, I measure the distance from the brake lever pivot of each STI lever to a point at the transition between the top and the ramp on the opposite side of the handlebar.
Because of my mad OCD, my eyeballing is pretty precise. But before I install the bar tape, I ride slowly around my community to make sure that both STI levers feel the same to me. Now of course it goes without saying that all of the above first requires the handlebar to be perfectly centered relative to the stem, and for the stem to be perfectly aligned with the front wheel.
Last edited by SoSmellyAir; 12-21-23 at 06:26 PM.
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Looks like you could lay a ruler along the outside of the handlebar and just look to see if the tops of the hoods are equal distances in. (I have enough astigmatism that I can make either hood look further in. I can also straighten them or tilt them in more. Barely have to move my head.)
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Looks like you could lay a ruler along the outside of the handlebar and just look to see if the tops of the hoods are equal distances in. (I have enough astigmatism that I can make either hood look further in. I can also straighten them or tilt them in more. Barely have to move my head.)
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#9
With a mighty wind
With flared bars becoming more common, even on the road, I don’t know how to avoid an inward pointing lever.
Is parallel with the lowest straight line of a handlebar adequate?
As for OCD. Occasionally marked bars are marked wrong. You really need to measure, both the middle of the bar and a spot somewhere on the curve to mark yourself, before the handlebar is even on your bike.
Theres a zillion different ways to measure a bar, probably a flexible sewing type measuring tape is the easiest.
Is parallel with the lowest straight line of a handlebar adequate?
As for OCD. Occasionally marked bars are marked wrong. You really need to measure, both the middle of the bar and a spot somewhere on the curve to mark yourself, before the handlebar is even on your bike.
Theres a zillion different ways to measure a bar, probably a flexible sewing type measuring tape is the easiest.
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Hold a coffee table size book against the outside edge of the drop, then measure from the surface of the book to the hood.
#11
Before the tape goes on, place zero on a ruler where it touches the bar under the lever clamp on the left and measure to whatever point it touches on the junction of lever and hood on the right lever. Than check the other lever the same way. Measuring in an X shape like this very accurate.
Make sure the lever height is equal, first.
Make sure the lever height is equal, first.
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First of all it doesn't matter since you're not perfectly symmetrical, and your hands will tell you if they're unhappy.
But since you seem to care, here's how.
Fit one lever. Take piece of cardboard and make a template. Use that to duplicate the angle on the other side.
But since you seem to care, here's how.
Fit one lever. Take piece of cardboard and make a template. Use that to duplicate the angle on the other side.
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Making sure both levers are mounted at the same height on the bars and the same angle inwards has so far proven to be a task my puny brain can't handle. YouTuber "Rides of Japan" has the same burning desire for perfection as I do and he created a video that almost resolved my issue...
John
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I can’t get them even and it drives me nuts. The flared bars on my CX bike are even more difficult…
These bikes are precisely put together except for the contact points. Round seat tube, no way to really line them up properly. Handlebar/stem connection is eyeballed, even with the little tick marks. Stem alignment is eyeballed. Brake hoods eyeballed…
I really struggle getting the stem aligned with the front wheel, my eyes don’t see straight enough. A simple key way would make this easier.
These bikes are precisely put together except for the contact points. Round seat tube, no way to really line them up properly. Handlebar/stem connection is eyeballed, even with the little tick marks. Stem alignment is eyeballed. Brake hoods eyeballed…
I really struggle getting the stem aligned with the front wheel, my eyes don’t see straight enough. A simple key way would make this easier.
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I can’t get them even and it drives me nuts. The flared bars on my CX bike are even more difficult…
These bikes are precisely put together except for the contact points. Round seat tube, no way to really line them up properly. Handlebar/stem connection is eyeballed, even with the little tick marks. Stem alignment is eyeballed. Brake hoods eyeballed…
I really struggle getting the stem aligned with the front wheel, my eyes don’t see straight enough. A simple key way would make this easier.
These bikes are precisely put together except for the contact points. Round seat tube, no way to really line them up properly. Handlebar/stem connection is eyeballed, even with the little tick marks. Stem alignment is eyeballed. Brake hoods eyeballed…
I really struggle getting the stem aligned with the front wheel, my eyes don’t see straight enough. A simple key way would make this easier.
Edit: on topic - for years I rode with twice the inward tilt to my right lever. Then I made a big change and symmetrical tilts worked. The change? My 4th collarbone break. Finally got my shoulders back to symmetrical. TG I got through those many years without OCD issues.
Last edited by 79pmooney; 12-22-23 at 01:04 PM.
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#19
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For height, tie the front wheel to the down tube so the wheel points straight ahead. Place a spirit level across the tops of the hoods to set the height. For the angle, open the Measure app on your iPhone and select level. Place the phone against your brake levers in exactly the same place on each lever. Adjust one lever to match the iPhone reading on the other. Perhaps there is a similar app for Android phones.
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#20
Despite all the hubbub about the UCI planning to ban riders from having their brake hoods pointed inward, I've been riding with my hoods angled slightly inwards for two years now and love it. (And I don't race, so UCI's decision doesn't impact me.) However, every time I get on my bike, I swear that one lever is angled in slightly more than the other and that makes me bonkers.
Have any of you found a way to ensure perfectly symmetrical alignment of both levers other than the "eyeball it" method I've been using?
Have any of you found a way to ensure perfectly symmetrical alignment of both levers other than the "eyeball it" method I've been using?
Set the bike upright using a digital level, then use a straight edge with the level to check the levers are at the same height. Measure from each lever lower tip to the end of the opposite handlebar to check for equal rotation.
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you could try laying this on top of the bar. Affix one swing arm & swing the other one to obtain the measurement... I'd go with the 10" Protractor.
the left lever/hood is pointed inward more than the right side.
the left lever/hood is pointed inward more than the right side.
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