I need new platform pedals...
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I need new platform pedals...
I currently am running Primo Supertenderizers and they are slippery when wet, a pain to rebuild and overall low quality platform pedals. I know I have praised them in the past, but since rebuilding them I have found adjusting the bearing tension is all but impossible with the pedal off the bike. I am now looking into sealed bearing platform pedals. I am looking at a few and would like to see if anyone here has experience with them or others that perform well and can take abuse (I weigh 290, so I need something strong). I would prefer something with sealed bearing only, no bushings.
Bontrager King Earl - $85 - https://www.bontrager.com/Mountain/Co...dals/21453.php
Dark Cycles Anubis - $170 https://www.ride-this.com/Dark-Cycles...-20260049.html
Syncros Mental(SS)- $160 https://www.ride-this.com/Syncros-Men...-20260046.html
For those who don't know what the Primo pedals look like:
And will attach to:
And drive this:
Bontrager King Earl - $85 - https://www.bontrager.com/Mountain/Co...dals/21453.php
Dark Cycles Anubis - $170 https://www.ride-this.com/Dark-Cycles...-20260049.html
Syncros Mental(SS)- $160 https://www.ride-this.com/Syncros-Men...-20260046.html
For those who don't know what the Primo pedals look like:
And will attach to:
And drive this:
#2
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And I am not timid about a little extra weight. The Primo pedals weigh 1.75lbs and the bike comes in at 34.5lbs.
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I'd go for something lighter...you can get the Syncros in mag which are half the weight of the chromo or SS. I have a pair of the Block 8 Mags which were relatively cheap ($50-60) and are nice and light.
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#6
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If you want the best grip, you will get these:
I've run these two seasons and love them. The traction pins are not for unprotected shins.
If weight is truly no object, go with the stainless (as per your example too). DON'T get the chromoly - - the traction pins are cast in, not sharp and not replaceable:
or check out the Sunline V-Ones or V-Twos:
I've run these two seasons and love them. The traction pins are not for unprotected shins.
If weight is truly no object, go with the stainless (as per your example too). DON'T get the chromoly - - the traction pins are cast in, not sharp and not replaceable:
or check out the Sunline V-Ones or V-Twos:
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If you want the best grip, you will get these:
I've run these two seasons and love them. The traction pins are not for unprotected shins.
If weight is truly no object, go with the stainless (as per your example too). DON'T get the chromoly - - the traction pins are cast in, not sharp and not replaceable:
or check out the Sunline V-Ones or V-Twos:
I've run these two seasons and love them. The traction pins are not for unprotected shins.
If weight is truly no object, go with the stainless (as per your example too). DON'T get the chromoly - - the traction pins are cast in, not sharp and not replaceable:
or check out the Sunline V-Ones or V-Twos:
The Stainless ones are the same weight as the Primo pedals I have now. Have you serviced the Alloy versions? Some sites list 1 needle bearing, 2 sealed bearings and 1 split bearing... Others list a bushing instead of the split bearing. Does yours have the split bearing or bushing? The cost is almost the same ($149 for alloy and 159 for stainless).
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specialized low pro mags, are going to be my next purchase, although i should probably save for a dj1 with a 20mm axle and a new front wheel, but here are the pedals i want, they aree awesome
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqP...jsp?spid=25241
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqP...jsp?spid=25241
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specialized low pro mags, are going to be my next purchase, although i should probably save for a dj1 with a 20mm axle and a new front wheel, but here are the pedals i want, they aree awesome
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqP...jsp?spid=25241
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqP...jsp?spid=25241
I did consider these, but according to specialized there is still one bushing.
# 4-bearing design includes 2 cartridge, 1 needle and 1 bushing
And the color does not match my bike at all...
The spindle does not extend to the outside edge of the pedal. This is important to me since I am a larger Clyde...
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The Stainless ones are the same weight as the Primo pedals I have now. Have you serviced the Alloy versions? Some sites list 1 needle bearing, 2 sealed bearings and 1 split bearing... Others list a bushing instead of the split bearing. Does yours have the split bearing or bushing? The cost is almost the same ($149 for alloy and 159 for stainless).
I think next year I'm going with the mags but I'm a 'DH weight weenie' . Sounds like the stainless is right up your alley.
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#11
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I haven't had mine apart yet to service them - - haven't had to. They've run flawlessly for two seasons racing and riding. Bearing count is 4 per pedal: 12mm needle; 20mm "split bearing" (which is actually a DU bushing I believe - - that's the terminology difference you were seeing); two cartridge ball. I'm not sure of the exact layout of the internals; but it's my impression that the needle is near the center of the body, the cartridges are at the outboard ends and I don't know where the split bearing is located.
I think next year I'm going with the mags but I'm a 'DH weight weenie' . Sounds like the stainless is right up your alley.
I think next year I'm going with the mags but I'm a 'DH weight weenie' . Sounds like the stainless is right up your alley.
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Bike's a svelt 44#. I'm using the long v-grooved pins. Just run the short ones; they aren't sharp like the long ones. The pins are tough. I haven't broken or ripped out any yet. Two backed out but that was just my carelessness in not periodically checking for tightness.
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Thanks.
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They come with both sets of pins; mine had the long ones installed and the short ones in a bag. Use blue (standard) loctite; the threads aren't pre-coated. Sorry, no picts. It's late.
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#17
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#18
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Thanks. I can wait for pics another day or just see them when I get the pedals. I am leaning very heavily to the Mental Stainless. How dangerous are the short pins?
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If you have the available funds I would recommend the Syncros SS pedals pictured below (or above depending on how you view the threads). I bought them when they first came out a few years ago and they have been beaten, battered, slammed and dunked and smashed. There are a few scratches, I have replaced some of the pins but the pedal as a whole is in great shape. I liked these pedals so much I take the time to transfer them from bike to bike depending on where I am riding.
DBD
DBD
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If you have the available funds I would recommend the Syncros SS pedals pictured below (or above depending on how you view the threads). I bought them when they first came out a few years ago and they have been beaten, battered, slammed and dunked and smashed. There are a few scratches, I have replaced some of the pins but the pedal as a whole is in great shape. I liked these pedals so much I take the time to transfer them from bike to bike depending on where I am riding.
DBD
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Thanks.
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Short or long does not matter, they hurt like hell if your pedal catches yer shin or calf (or if you take a tumble and the pedals happen to clip yer forearms and back as you go down ) all though the short ones wont tear you up as much.
I have never tried them with out the pins so I could not say. From the way the pedal in designed i would guess you would be slipping off a lot especially if the pedals get wet.
DBD
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When I ran platforms, I ran the Shimano DX's. Stick in the long pins, and they are awesome, super grippy and pretty light (claimed 492g for the pair)
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another vote for syncros mental pedals. i have both the ss and magnesium pairs. dminor is accurate on internal description. really no need to take apart yet either. i have used the grease ports though. you can change how freely it rotates to a degree with amount of grease.
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I appreciate you contribution, but the axle does not extend to the edge of the pedal. These also do not have cartridge bearings, but they have a "CrMo spindle with a sealed, ball-bearing design".
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another vote for syncros mental pedals. i have both the ss and magnesium pairs. dminor is accurate on internal description. really no need to take apart yet either. i have used the grease ports though. you can change how freely it rotates to a degree with amount of grease.