Schwinn Prelude with shimano 600 components.
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Schwinn Prelude with shimano 600 components.
Hey BF. Was on CL this morning, and picked up a Scwhinn Prelude for $80. It's an older bike, but I cant find out exactly how old. I've asked Google, and it can't help me. The Serial Number is on the Bottom Bracket, and is C732595. Its got a 53 - 42 front crank, and a 22 - 13 freewheel. It has alot of surface rust, and some of the components are rusted as well. It has Wolber rims, and shimano 600 hubs, along with Shimano 600 everything else; both deraileuers, brakes, brake levers, crankset, etc. It came with a pair of bike shoes with the cleats and pedals. I took them off. I prefer flats.
If I tear it down, sand the frame down, and paint it, do you think it would be worthwhile? The components do have some rust, but I think they would be reusable. Pics included.
Edit: Sorry about the Serial Pic. Alot blurrier then I thought.
If I tear it down, sand the frame down, and paint it, do you think it would be worthwhile? The components do have some rust, but I think they would be reusable. Pics included.
Edit: Sorry about the Serial Pic. Alot blurrier then I thought.
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I believe that's a 1989 model that someone upgraded with the 600 components, and the fork has been replaced. That rust looks pretty bad, the components aren't going to look great after you clean them up, but you're correct in that they'd be usable. The fork is a big red flag that it's been crashed, I'd pass on this one.
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That's a nice grab for $80, congrats. Looks like a 1986 or 1987 Prelude to me, serial number seems to point to a 87. The Shimano 600 Tri-Color components would be an upgrade in either case.
Original specs are here: https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1987_17.html
There are others here far more qualified to tell you about rust removal. Navel Jelly may be able to take the rust off the components without ruining the 600 tri-color labelling, for example, but I have little experience using it. If you are going to tear it down, I personally would a least try to save the original paint. The pics lead me to believe its not in that terrible of shape, and could be resurrected with probably much, much less effort or cost than a full re-paint.
Again, another route I've heard of, but not used myself, is the Olaxic Acid bath. My suspicion is if you tear it completely apart, and get a big container, you could make short work of re-habing this one.
Original specs are here: https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1987_17.html
There are others here far more qualified to tell you about rust removal. Navel Jelly may be able to take the rust off the components without ruining the 600 tri-color labelling, for example, but I have little experience using it. If you are going to tear it down, I personally would a least try to save the original paint. The pics lead me to believe its not in that terrible of shape, and could be resurrected with probably much, much less effort or cost than a full re-paint.
Again, another route I've heard of, but not used myself, is the Olaxic Acid bath. My suspicion is if you tear it completely apart, and get a big container, you could make short work of re-habing this one.
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Just read the four digit code off the headbadge. That will give you the date.
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I agree with Chris_in_miami about the unoriginal fork, but it may have also been an upgrade. Look carefully for any bends, suspicious paint bubbling, or rust spots on the downtube and toptube near the head tube in case it was a crash.
But, the original Prelude fork was a Hi-Ten. It may be the original owner bought the much cheaper Prelude for the Tenax Frame, and upgraded the components and fork, making essentially a franken Super Sport (look at those specs on the Findley site to see what I mean).
But, the original Prelude fork was a Hi-Ten. It may be the original owner bought the much cheaper Prelude for the Tenax Frame, and upgraded the components and fork, making essentially a franken Super Sport (look at those specs on the Findley site to see what I mean).
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Thanks everyone! The fork is a sign it was crashed? Is there damage, or is it just that it was replaced? I agree the rust is pretty bad, but I'm hoping its all surface rust.
Thanks smithy. I am gonna look into Navel Jelly and Olaxic Acid.
Oops. The headbadge says 1267.
Thanks smithy. I am gonna look into Navel Jelly and Olaxic Acid.
Oops. The headbadge says 1267.
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126th day of 1987. So its a 1987 for sure. Most of the time, replacement fork = crashed. This does not mean the frame is compromised. Often the fork goes. Sometimes the rest is OK, sometimes not. Sure sign is any deflection on the TT or DT near the headtube (on the underside). Should be able to feel a ripple if it is damaged.
#8
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Such a shame that frame and components have had to endure all that neglect and rust. Hopefully they will clean up and be useable once more. That front derailer might be toast...
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The components on this one are pretty far gone. Oxalic Acid can only be used on steel parts, not aluminum. I'm sure this bike would make a decent rider, but I wouldn't pour anymore cash into it. Seems like the original owner had a penchant for bolt-on parts, so maybe the fork was an "up-grade" and not the result of a crash.
What are the pedals and shoes included? You could probably get some coin out of them.
What are the pedals and shoes included? You could probably get some coin out of them.
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