Tubular:Glue or Tape?
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Tubular:Glue or Tape?
Hello, I am new to BikeForums.I'd Like your opinion about about which one I should use.Is there a difference between them?Why Should I choose Tubular glue?Why should I not an so on.
Please explain which one.I just ordered my tubular wheelset and I'd like to know
Please explain which one.I just ordered my tubular wheelset and I'd like to know
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Glue - Tubs are great - ride much better than clinchers so you might as do it right. The pro's use glue for a reason
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I am worried about that issue.I don't want something like that below to happen.(I covered the riders' faces for typical reasons)
For some reason the tire unmounted the wheel.I bet you guess what happened next.Does anyone know what might caused it?
For some reason the tire unmounted the wheel.I bet you guess what happened next.Does anyone know what might caused it?
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that is more likely to happen with clinchers than with a tubular, in the situation in the photo.
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The tire in question probably rolled because of low pressure (slow leak?) rather than a glue failure.
It's the tire pressure that holds a tire on, with the adhesive's main job being to keep it from shifting or creeping around the rim with torque (usually driving force in the rear, and braking force in the front).
Tubulars are made with 2 bias plies at 90 degrees from each other. When inflated they work like those Chinese finger traps we played with as children. The pressure acts on them to make them fatter, which makes them try to become shorter and constrict into the hollow of the rim. That's what holds them on.
There may also be the effects of heat on hot pavement, and/or heat from braking. This can weaken the glue bond, causing the tire to creep around when braking, and create a slack area near the valve. This isn't a hazard to casual riders because it announces itself with clear thumping (and an obviously tilted valve stem), but a racer may choose to disregard it in the heat of competition leading to a nasty surprise.
As to glue vs. tape, either is fine if of decent quality and used properly. The key is a good bond, or tack, and a base coat on new rims to ensure good adhesion to the metal. For non racers good, durable tackiness is preferable to a dry glue bond. This makes it easier to change tires on the road, and can allow the replacement to be mounted and ridden immediately. Racers don't care about this anymore, because they haven't carried spares since the days of Fausto Coppi, and will rely on team or neutral support to switch out the wheel.
With any degree of reasonable care, you should ride a lifetime without ever rolling a tire.
It's the tire pressure that holds a tire on, with the adhesive's main job being to keep it from shifting or creeping around the rim with torque (usually driving force in the rear, and braking force in the front).
Tubulars are made with 2 bias plies at 90 degrees from each other. When inflated they work like those Chinese finger traps we played with as children. The pressure acts on them to make them fatter, which makes them try to become shorter and constrict into the hollow of the rim. That's what holds them on.
There may also be the effects of heat on hot pavement, and/or heat from braking. This can weaken the glue bond, causing the tire to creep around when braking, and create a slack area near the valve. This isn't a hazard to casual riders because it announces itself with clear thumping (and an obviously tilted valve stem), but a racer may choose to disregard it in the heat of competition leading to a nasty surprise.
As to glue vs. tape, either is fine if of decent quality and used properly. The key is a good bond, or tack, and a base coat on new rims to ensure good adhesion to the metal. For non racers good, durable tackiness is preferable to a dry glue bond. This makes it easier to change tires on the road, and can allow the replacement to be mounted and ridden immediately. Racers don't care about this anymore, because they haven't carried spares since the days of Fausto Coppi, and will rely on team or neutral support to switch out the wheel.
With any degree of reasonable care, you should ride a lifetime without ever rolling a tire.
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So, I will say tape. I have used both for about 15 years and although I have no problem with applying glue, I find tape to be simple, easy to use, and ridable immediately, not 24 hours after the glue has had time to set up. I use Tufo tape and their tubular tires.
#8
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Tape has higher rolling resistance than glue.
Either glue, or ride a different wheel. If you're using tape, you're probably better off using tubeless clinchers or clinchers with latex tubes.
Either glue, or ride a different wheel. If you're using tape, you're probably better off using tubeless clinchers or clinchers with latex tubes.
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Never used tape...so I'm saying glue. Just don't use too much...or you'll have a heck of a time pulling them off.
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Unless you're racing, clinchers are good enough for training and every day rides. There is no longer a reason to run tubulars since the clincher technology has improved so much.
#14
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Tubular:Glue or Tape?
Tubulars are reserved for those who possess, for lack of better terminology, the force. They require long tedious hours of glueing rim and tire, building up layers of tack, then days to cure. Mounting the tires are best left to mystics and shaman. The average cyclist is best to steer away from these beastly sewn carcasses.
Or, you can do as I do. Get yourself some 3M trim adhesive from the auto parts store, smear it on the rim, put the tire in the rim, inflate, and by the time you put your jumper on, you're set to ride.
Or, you can do as I do. Get yourself some 3M trim adhesive from the auto parts store, smear it on the rim, put the tire in the rim, inflate, and by the time you put your jumper on, you're set to ride.
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https://www.google.com Look, don't look; it really doesn't matter to me.
#19
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Crr Comparison - Mastik 1 vs. Tufo Extreme Tape
Here's the best actual measurement I was able to find. Lots of anecdotal evidence. Most of the evidence is based on analogy to thick vs thin glue layers, and the hardness of the glue.
The big chart here has incorporated the data above.
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires_...sting_rev9.pdf
The Crr was 0.00239 (glued) vs 0.00260 (Tufo Extreme). 0.00239 is one of the lower rolling resistance tires. 0.00260 is an average "racing" clincher with latex tube. So basically, you take of the best tires, and turn it into an average tire. It will be definitively better than a clincher + butyl tube, but also behind most tubeless tires.
Here's the best actual measurement I was able to find. Lots of anecdotal evidence. Most of the evidence is based on analogy to thick vs thin glue layers, and the hardness of the glue.
The big chart here has incorporated the data above.
https://www.biketechreview.com/tires_...sting_rev9.pdf
The Crr was 0.00239 (glued) vs 0.00260 (Tufo Extreme). 0.00239 is one of the lower rolling resistance tires. 0.00260 is an average "racing" clincher with latex tube. So basically, you take of the best tires, and turn it into an average tire. It will be definitively better than a clincher + butyl tube, but also behind most tubeless tires.
Last edited by gsa103; 07-13-14 at 02:56 PM.
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Where in the five letters, one word I posted do you find me making any claims one way or another? Like I wrote, whether you choose to educate yourself or not is of no concern to me.
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I guess not.
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#24
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Tubular:Glue or Tape?
I was fairly good with Elmer's. When I was introduced to rubber cement, my world changed.
#25
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"Tubulars attached to rims using gluing tape will inherently have even higher losses than a standard gluing since the thickness of glue is greater and the tape in the middle also contributes a hysteretic loss."