For the love of English 3 speeds...
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,982
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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And 27" wheels, making it somewhat easier to go with alloys. We all have a spare front alloy wheel plus a matching rim with spokes for the rear, right?
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$50 Rudge in NJ.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...42035713000130
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$50 Rudge in NJ.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...42035713000130
Count Orlok Member
Junior Member
Posted elsewhere on the forum 'Raleigh Chiltern Find') but no harm introducing myself/bike on this venerable thread?
Here's my recent purchase....a 1991 Raleigh 'Chiltern'.
It is absolutely mint; never ridden or spannered. Spent its life dry stored at the back of a garage.
A once over reveals this to be effectively a NOS machine.....I'm delighted and proud to own it.
BTW is 'SirMike1983' the chap who runs the excellent 'In The Bike Shed' blog?
Here's my recent purchase....a 1991 Raleigh 'Chiltern'.
It is absolutely mint; never ridden or spannered. Spent its life dry stored at the back of a garage.
A once over reveals this to be effectively a NOS machine.....I'm delighted and proud to own it.
BTW is 'SirMike1983' the chap who runs the excellent 'In The Bike Shed' blog?
Last edited by Cyclespanner; 10-16-23 at 07:57 AM. Reason: Addition
Senior Member
The previous owner had a B17 on it. while swapping saddles I discovered the B17, although short, is longer than the B67. Big surprise as I've owned about five of each and never noticed or thought about it, being mainly concerned about width differences. So I swapped the seatpost and forced the B67 back to its absolute limits, and it just barely works (long femurs). I'm thrilled with the results. This bike is an absolute kick to ride. I tried to get the decal off the seatpost with acetone (as I was advised) but no luck.
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On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
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Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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My friend sent me this link to an eBay ad. $780 for a Triumph 3 speed?? He is eternally grateful that I picked up that $50 Triumph for him!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23520624777...is&media=EMAIL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23520624777...is&media=EMAIL
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,074
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
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Nothing fancy here folks, just another Raliegh Sport. mostly cleanup and a good polish to make the psint glow. One thing i did was save the existing saddle from athe trash can. When examined the cover was loose. both the rivets on the side had pulled through and the cover just slid off. Looking at the frame it was missing 3 of the springs that support the saddle. I looked around the shop and noticed a saddle frame hanging on the wall in the Grotto, our work and misc. part storage area. It was the same frame with all the springs in place. I swapped the two and installed the cover on this frame. Not having any rivits I found some round head bolts and nuts the appropriate size and used them to attach the cover. It worked a treat and now the bike looks like new again.
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Nothing fancy here folks, just another Raliegh Sport. mostly cleanup and a good polish to make the psint glow. One thing i did was save the existing saddle from athe trash can. When examined the cover was loose. both the rivets on the side had pulled through and the cover just slid off. Looking at the frame it was missing 3 of the springs that support the saddle. I looked around the shop and noticed a saddle frame hanging on the wall in the Grotto, our work and misc. part storage area. It was the same frame with all the springs in place. I swapped the two and installed the cover on this frame. Not having any rivits I found some round head bolts and nuts the appropriate size and used them to attach the cover. It worked a treat and now the bike looks like new again.
Last edited by swampyankee2; 10-17-23 at 04:41 PM.
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,982
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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1962 Canadian Superbe
A friend brought this over yesterday for a little tune up.
Quite original and also quite neglected....
Original ball end brake calipers
Oil port on the BB
Stamped eye on the heron.
Decals are nice.
Plus a couple of others
R.C.I.C.I.
Not sure what it stands for
Soddard? Perhaps the bike shop.
One more thing. I learned a little trick today.
The oil port on the hub would not stay closed.
I heated it VERY briefly with a lighter and it seems to be holding.
A friend brought this over yesterday for a little tune up.
Quite original and also quite neglected....
Original ball end brake calipers
Oil port on the BB
Stamped eye on the heron.
Decals are nice.
Plus a couple of others
R.C.I.C.I.
Not sure what it stands for
Soddard? Perhaps the bike shop.
One more thing. I learned a little trick today.
The oil port on the hub would not stay closed.
I heated it VERY briefly with a lighter and it seems to be holding.
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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1953 Lenton set up as a tourist.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,222
Bikes: '72 Peugeot PX-10 ‘77 Tommasini '78 Motobecane Le Champion ‘80’s Conti Special '85 Trek 830 '88 Merckx Team ADR Corsa Extra
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I like the looks of this 2 speed. Anybody have experience with the 2 speed Bendix?
Facebook IL Schwinn
Mostly original paint with some old touch-ups. Respoked 2 Speed Bendix rear rim works good. 26” x 1 3/4” middleweight rides great.
Vintage 1960’s Schwinn Flying Star 2-Speed Bicycle $200 Watseka, IL
Facebook IL Schwinn
Mostly original paint with some old touch-ups. Respoked 2 Speed Bendix rear rim works good. 26” x 1 3/4” middleweight rides great.
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The Bendix manual 2 speed was popular in the 1950s and into the early 1960s. Drive is 1:1 in high and .67 in low. The kickback "auto" 2-speed showed up about 1961 to replace the lever-actuated manual. The issue with those bikes is the frame sizes are quite small for an adult rider. This can be helped with a layback type seat post or a BMX style tall post. It's helpful to have spare parts for these hubs, but they're not unduly difficult to work on. The braking power on them is pretty good, though it always helps to add a front brake. Assume you'll need to disassemble, clean, and re-grease it unless it's from someone who understands old hubs.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 10-18-23 at 01:42 PM.
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Chicago
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The Bendix manual 2 speed was popular in the 1950s and into the early 1960s. Drive is 1:1 in high and .67 in low. The kickback "auto" 2-speed showed up about 1961 to replace the lever-actuated manual. The issue with those bikes is the frame sizes are quite small for an adult rider. This can be helped with a layback type seat post or a BMX style tall post. It's helpful to have spare parts for these hubs, but they're not unduly difficult to work on. The braking power on them is pretty good, though it always helps to add a front brake. Assume you'll need to disassemble, clean, and re-grease it unless it's from someone who understands old hubs.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Junior Member
I like the looks of this 2 speed. Anybody have experience with the 2 speed Bendix?
Facebook IL Schwinn
Mostly original paint with some old touch-ups. Respoked 2 Speed Bendix rear rim works good. 26” x 1 3/4” middleweight rides great.
Vintage 1960’s Schwinn Flying Star 2-Speed Bicycle $200 Watseka, IL
Facebook IL Schwinn
Mostly original paint with some old touch-ups. Respoked 2 Speed Bendix rear rim works good. 26” x 1 3/4” middleweight rides great.
These were very similar to a Schwinn American also sold during the same period but with the straight bar 'DX' frame.
These were considered middleweight bikes and used 26x1.75 S7 rims and tires.
The Bendix 2 speed was a fairly simple hub to work on, and it was super reliable. I don't recall ever finding one broken or in need of any serious repairs. Usually I find them just neglected with a bunch of dried out grease.
Here's one torn apart on the bench:
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That bike is a '55 or '56 judging by the paint scheme and chain guard, as well as the straight bar frame. 57 and 58 were cantilever frames, and it returned in 1961 for one year with the straight bar frame again but the paint scheme was different.
These were very similar to a Schwinn American also sold during the same period but with the straight bar 'DX' frame.
These were considered middleweight bikes and used 26x1.75 S7 rims and tires.
The Bendix 2 speed was a fairly simple hub to work on, and it was super reliable. I don't recall ever finding one broken or in need of any serious repairs. Usually I find them just neglected with a bunch of dried out grease.
Here's one torn apart on the bench:
These were very similar to a Schwinn American also sold during the same period but with the straight bar 'DX' frame.
These were considered middleweight bikes and used 26x1.75 S7 rims and tires.
The Bendix 2 speed was a fairly simple hub to work on, and it was super reliable. I don't recall ever finding one broken or in need of any serious repairs. Usually I find them just neglected with a bunch of dried out grease.
Here's one torn apart on the bench:
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,982
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,960
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
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It's sort of a game with amateur tribologists to use something other than the factory recommendation. The Sturmey factory consistently specifies NLGI #2 grease for the bearings and labyrinth seals and either NLGI #00 grease or 20~30 wt. motor oil for the internal mechanism.
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
Fun fact: during and after the war, when things were rationed and in short supply, Sturmey suggested sewing machine oil as a substitute for the internal mechanism and Vaseline for the bearings and seals. (!)
How about Finish Line Wet Bicycle Lube to be dripped into a Sturmey hub? I can't say how it compares to 20-30 wt motor oil.
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Bendix 2 speed w. coaster brake? I had one of these around 1963, assembled by LBS into a 26" middleweight, frame unknown. I hated this bike because it felt slow and sluggish, and neither of the gears seemed to be able work with my young legs. I see they are quoted as having ratios of 1:1 and 1:0.67. Mine seemed to hae very long cranks, one-piece ashtabula-style. Frame had curved TTs, so perhaps it was 1950s. A used build from a decent bike shop, I'd not limit the hub to being a 1950s or any other year. We just don't know. Lost track of that bike 50 years ago, but were there any such hubs with different ratios?
Junior Member
Thought I'd posted this before, apologies if I have, but can't find it.
I'm a recent follower of this impressive thread and am enjoying working my way from the beginning (up to page 101 now).
I'm under the impression 'Sixty Fiver' began it all and is partial to 'Twenties'.
The US version looks odd to me with the smaller wheels, indeed more of that 'Circus Bike Vibe' about them.
I have 5 of them, all of which are non-folders.
Here's a couple.....
1980 Solitaire. 1978 Shopper
The bronze 'Shopper' has a dyno-hub and weighs substantially more than the 'Solitaire'.
Have no intention of riding in the dark, so will be swapping to a regular AW wheel.
I'm a recent follower of this impressive thread and am enjoying working my way from the beginning (up to page 101 now).
I'm under the impression 'Sixty Fiver' began it all and is partial to 'Twenties'.
The US version looks odd to me with the smaller wheels, indeed more of that 'Circus Bike Vibe' about them.
I have 5 of them, all of which are non-folders.
Here's a couple.....
1980 Solitaire. 1978 Shopper
The bronze 'Shopper' has a dyno-hub and weighs substantially more than the 'Solitaire'.
Have no intention of riding in the dark, so will be swapping to a regular AW wheel.
Last edited by Cyclespanner; 10-21-23 at 09:17 AM.
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Junior Member
Here's a treat for those who haven't seen it.....a Raleigh promotional/education documentary/film, giving a lower middle class gent and his jolly good son a comprehensive tour through the processes involved making an 'All Steel Bicycle' at the dark and dingy factory in immediately postwar Nottingham, England.
Pay close attention, there's a lot to be learned.
Can't hot link for some reason, but check out ''How a bicycle is made 1945'' on youtube.
Try to get the full length version.
Pay close attention, there's a lot to be learned.
Can't hot link for some reason, but check out ''How a bicycle is made 1945'' on youtube.
Try to get the full length version.
Likes For Cyclespanner:
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,982
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,350
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
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I asked this same question, once, about chain-lube in general, and someone more knowledgeable told me they advised against it because of the additives like detergents in chain lube.
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"Chim-chiminey, chim-chiminey, chim-chim cheroo"
"Chim-chiminey, chim-chiminey, chim-chim cheroo"