What have you been wrenching on lately?
#276
real far gone
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dark Hollow, Pennsylvania
Posts: 330
Bikes: Motobécane Grand Record, Peugeot PR10, Gitane Gran Tourisme, Peugeot PX-10
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Wanting to step up my bowl-turning-fu, I realized I needed a better selection of bowl gouges.
So, I ordered some un-handled gouges in a useful selection of sizes and profiles, grabbed some wood scraps and metal bits:
Fired up the wood and metal lathes, then slapped 'em together...
Voila, five new gouges; one 5/8", two 1/2", and two 3/8", with brass and copper ferrules and counterweights. Suitable for heavy work. And I turned a couple of chisel handles while I was at it.
Detail:
Really looking forward to sharpening these up turning some bowls tomorrow!
-Timothy
So, I ordered some un-handled gouges in a useful selection of sizes and profiles, grabbed some wood scraps and metal bits:
Fired up the wood and metal lathes, then slapped 'em together...
Voila, five new gouges; one 5/8", two 1/2", and two 3/8", with brass and copper ferrules and counterweights. Suitable for heavy work. And I turned a couple of chisel handles while I was at it.
Detail:
Really looking forward to sharpening these up turning some bowls tomorrow!
-Timothy
#277
Banned.
I took in a Trek Domane for a 70-year old lady to ride across the US. Converted it from double Ultegra to triple Ultegra. Trek's cable routing is poor on that model. I think it's ready, it's tested well, and BikeFlights is taking it to California. An engineer on the test ride last week said "You know, that bike is not meant to be a triple." I only had one reply, "ignorance is bliss, and 70-year olds are not supposed to ride bikes across the United States, either." We laughed.
I then took in a Trek 7.7FX. The owner wanted me to "make it a road bike." I told him to buy a road bike. Anyway, it was worth a shot. It went from triple 105/Ultegra mix with flat bars 3x10 to drop bar 2x10 5700, FSA Energy crankset, double FD, retained the long cage RD so he can make the transition with the wide rear cassette. This is his "second step" into cycling, first the hybrid, now the "tall" roadie. Next, C&V, right?
Other than that, very slowly working on my first tourer. I've built a gravel bike for a relative, 3x7 RSX compact, but that was simply adding a rack and bigger tires. This is coming along. Yes, I know Superbe Pro was not touring stuff. Tell that to Mr. Klein, who spec'd it in 1984. Those 700x25's look small, and they'll be replaced with 700x32's once I get the fenders mounted. To come: front bag (Garneau), rear bag (Roswheel), red housing, red Cannondale wrap with black accents, other stuff.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
Note the bolt-on FD.
SSM Regal in modern trim.
I then took in a Trek 7.7FX. The owner wanted me to "make it a road bike." I told him to buy a road bike. Anyway, it was worth a shot. It went from triple 105/Ultegra mix with flat bars 3x10 to drop bar 2x10 5700, FSA Energy crankset, double FD, retained the long cage RD so he can make the transition with the wide rear cassette. This is his "second step" into cycling, first the hybrid, now the "tall" roadie. Next, C&V, right?
Other than that, very slowly working on my first tourer. I've built a gravel bike for a relative, 3x7 RSX compact, but that was simply adding a rack and bigger tires. This is coming along. Yes, I know Superbe Pro was not touring stuff. Tell that to Mr. Klein, who spec'd it in 1984. Those 700x25's look small, and they'll be replaced with 700x32's once I get the fenders mounted. To come: front bag (Garneau), rear bag (Roswheel), red housing, red Cannondale wrap with black accents, other stuff.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
Note the bolt-on FD.
SSM Regal in modern trim.
#278
Senior Member
#279
Senior Member
Looks great so far Robbie.
That should be a super stable, comfy ride with that wheelbase.
More pics please.
That should be a super stable, comfy ride with that wheelbase.
More pics please.
I took in a Trek Domane for a 70-year old lady to ride across the US. Converted it from double Ultegra to triple Ultegra. Trek's cable routing is poor on that model. I think it's ready, it's tested well, and BikeFlights is taking it to California. An engineer on the test ride last week said "You know, that bike is not meant to be a triple." I only had one reply, "ignorance is bliss, and 70-year olds are not supposed to ride bikes across the United States, either." We laughed.
I then took in a Trek 7.7FX. The owner wanted me to "make it a road bike." I told him to buy a road bike. Anyway, it was worth a shot. It went from triple 105/Ultegra mix with flat bars 3x10 to drop bar 2x10 5700, FSA Energy crankset, double FD, retained the long cage RD so he can make the transition with the wide rear cassette. This is his "second step" into cycling, first the hybrid, now the "tall" roadie. Next, C&V, right?
Other than that, very slowly working on my first tourer. I've built a gravel bike for a relative, 3x7 RSX compact, but that was simply adding a rack and bigger tires. This is coming along. Yes, I know Superbe Pro was not touring stuff. Tell that to Mr. Klein, who spec'd it in 1984. Those 700x25's look small, and they'll be replaced with 700x32's once I get the fenders mounted. To come: front bag (Garneau), rear bag (Roswheel), red housing, red Cannondale wrap with black accents, other stuff.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
Note the bolt-on FD.
SSM Regal in modern trim.
I then took in a Trek 7.7FX. The owner wanted me to "make it a road bike." I told him to buy a road bike. Anyway, it was worth a shot. It went from triple 105/Ultegra mix with flat bars 3x10 to drop bar 2x10 5700, FSA Energy crankset, double FD, retained the long cage RD so he can make the transition with the wide rear cassette. This is his "second step" into cycling, first the hybrid, now the "tall" roadie. Next, C&V, right?
Other than that, very slowly working on my first tourer. I've built a gravel bike for a relative, 3x7 RSX compact, but that was simply adding a rack and bigger tires. This is coming along. Yes, I know Superbe Pro was not touring stuff. Tell that to Mr. Klein, who spec'd it in 1984. Those 700x25's look small, and they'll be replaced with 700x32's once I get the fenders mounted. To come: front bag (Garneau), rear bag (Roswheel), red housing, red Cannondale wrap with black accents, other stuff.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
Note the bolt-on FD.
SSM Regal in modern trim.
#280
Old Boy
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,127
Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.
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Light Touring Roadsters
I've been wrenching on two special touring bikes this winter. Both started life as 1970's ten-speeds. One is French:
...started life as a Gitane Gypsy Sport.
The other is ummm... English-ish:
... it started life as a Raysport Turismo, Reynolds butted 531 frameset. I carefully chose each component to match a vision I had of my ultimate "grail bike". It is everything I hoped it would be.
I know I got it right because I don't feel the need to buy any more bicycles.
Is it Springtime yet?
...started life as a Gitane Gypsy Sport.
The other is ummm... English-ish:
... it started life as a Raysport Turismo, Reynolds butted 531 frameset. I carefully chose each component to match a vision I had of my ultimate "grail bike". It is everything I hoped it would be.
I know I got it right because I don't feel the need to buy any more bicycles.
Is it Springtime yet?
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
#281
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 136
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Here's mine - been building up a trek 61X I picked up on fleabay as a frameset from the pro's closet. Let me just say I would not have purchased anything from them, had I known about their business practices. The frame was sitting for a long time, and I decided to make an offer. The frame was in great shape, but the paint was trashed. My original plan was to touch up the many, many flaws but the more I worked, the more surface rust I found. So I made the decision to have it media blasted & powder-coated to match the original silver as best I could. I had been collecting parts to upgrade another bike but I decided to put all those modern parts on the trek. I still have to route the cable for the FD and do a few other little things, but the powder-coat came out really nice and I cant wait to ride it. It will definitely stand out from all of the modern bikes in my club.
#282
Banned.
#283
Senior Member
#284
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Amsterdam
Posts: 1,662
Bikes: 1980 Koga-Miyata Gentsluxe-S, 1998 Eddy Merckx Corsa 01, 1983 Tommasini Racing, 2012 Gulf Western CAAD10, 1980 Univega Gran Premio
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Wanting to step up my bowl-turning-fu, I realized I needed a better selection of bowl gouges.
So, I ordered some un-handled gouges in a useful selection of sizes and profiles, grabbed some wood scraps and metal bits:
Fired up the wood and metal lathes, then slapped 'em together...
Voila, five new gouges; one 5/8", two 1/2", and two 3/8", with brass and copper ferrules and counterweights. Suitable for heavy work. And I turned a couple of chisel handles while I was at it.
Detail:
Really looking forward to sharpening these up turning some bowls tomorrow!
-Timothy
So, I ordered some un-handled gouges in a useful selection of sizes and profiles, grabbed some wood scraps and metal bits:
Fired up the wood and metal lathes, then slapped 'em together...
Voila, five new gouges; one 5/8", two 1/2", and two 3/8", with brass and copper ferrules and counterweights. Suitable for heavy work. And I turned a couple of chisel handles while I was at it.
Detail:
Really looking forward to sharpening these up turning some bowls tomorrow!
-Timothy
Edit: And some beautiful bikes here, too! I need to watch this thread more.
Last edited by Kevindale; 02-26-17 at 09:45 AM.
#285
Senior Member
[MENTION=181007]HamboneSlim[/MENTION] - the wood is outstanding! So incredibly beautiful. I always wanted to learn about working with wood like that. I even made "houses" for my dolls out of scraps of wood when I was maybe....5 or 6!
Think I could have made a good carpenter.
Think I could have made a good carpenter.
#286
Banned.
#287
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Seal Beach Ca. On the right , next to Long Beach
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Bikes: 86' Centurion Ironman
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Does puttin' on Velocals count as wrenchin' ? Haha as some of you might remember my first attempt didn't go so well , I now can say with utmost confidence do not use Krylon clear coat on velocals . Sorry about my usual crappy photography .
[IMG]https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/1westsail/DSCF2493_zpsalc2ok27.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/1westsail/DSCF2493_zpsalc2ok27.jpg[/IMG]
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#288
BMX Connoisseur
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Canada
Posts: 774
Bikes: 1988 Kuwahara Newport, 1983 Nishiki, 1984 Diamond Back Viper, 1991 Dyno Compe
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Does puttin' on Velocals count as wrenchin' ? Haha as some of you might remember my first attempt didn't go so well , I now can say with utmost confidence do not use Krylon clear coat on velocals . Sorry about my usual crappy photography .
[IMG]https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/1westsail/DSCF2493_zpsalc2ok27.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c176/1westsail/DSCF2493_zpsalc2ok27.jpg[/IMG]
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#289
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Seal Beach Ca. On the right , next to Long Beach
Posts: 1,814
Bikes: 86' Centurion Ironman
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Well thanks [MENTION=440954]cbrstar[/MENTION] , I'm really glad you like it . Funny thing that wasn't the one I ordered . This is the one I ordered .
Nishiki Head Badge Decal (sku 841) - VeloCals
Nishiki Head Badge Decal (sku 841) - VeloCals
Last edited by markwesti; 02-26-17 at 01:54 PM.
#290
Banned
Other than that, very slowly working on my first tourer. I've built a gravel bike for a relative, 3x7 RSX compact, but that was simply adding a rack and bigger tires. This is coming along. Yes, I know Superbe Pro was not touring stuff. Tell that to Mr. Klein, who spec'd it in 1984. Those 700x25's look small, and they'll be replaced with 700x32's once I get the fenders mounted. To come: front bag (Garneau), rear bag (Roswheel), red housing, red Cannondale wrap with black accents, other stuff.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
I've never had a bike with this type of wheelbase.
#291
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,465
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
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Here's mine - been building up a trek 61X I picked up on fleabay as a frameset from the pro's closet. Let me just say I would not have purchased anything from them, had I known about their business practices. The frame was sitting for a long time, and I decided to make an offer. The frame was in great shape, but the paint was trashed. My original plan was to touch up the many, many flaws but the more I worked, the more surface rust I found. So I made the decision to have it media blasted & powder-coated to match the original silver as best I could. I had been collecting parts to upgrade another bike but I decided to put all those modern parts on the trek. I still have to route the cable for the FD and do a few other little things, but the powder-coat came out really nice and I cant wait to ride it. It will definitely stand out from all of the modern bikes in my club.
#292
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,465
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
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Got a little more done on my Super Sport, and as I am recovering from a lingering mild cold-type-virus (which decided to kick it into gear Saturday night and most of Sunday), I will be doing more work on it. Really liking how the colors (ivory and multiple greys) are coming together, even as they are washed out in this excellent picture. I may try and slide on a larger large cog on this Uniglide 7-speed cassette, but the tubing (Champion 2) and geometry (steeper, tighter) give it a bulldog mentality, so keeping the masher gears, even in Seattle, keeps the theme consistent. The saddle will change to a Prologo Scratch Pro. Now to continue with the hack-up-a-lung phase of my illness......
#293
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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That looks wicked. The way you have the saddle, stem, and bars set up makes it look fast--and here the long wheelbase (or chainstays) work 100% in your favor. Long, low, and lean. The black 5800-era 105 groupset and wheels also 'make the look.' Can't wait to see it finished!
#294
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 7,381
Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Gitane Gran Tourisme, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '75 Peugeot PR-10L, '80 Colnago Super, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin
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Well thanks [MENTION=440954]cbrstar[/MENTION] , I'm really glad you like it . Funny thing that wasn't the one I ordered . This is the one I ordered .
Nishiki Head Badge Decal (sku 841) - VeloCals
Nishiki Head Badge Decal (sku 841) - VeloCals
#295
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Seal Beach Ca. On the right , next to Long Beach
Posts: 1,814
Bikes: 86' Centurion Ironman
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Good eye there [MENTION=175208]gaucho777[/MENTION] , there isn't anything correct on that bike . The only thing Nishiki is the Altron frame , and even it has been altered . If you would like to see pics of it please go to pedalroom.com and put in markwesti .
Last edited by markwesti; 02-27-17 at 08:24 PM.
#296
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,465
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
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Thanks so much...I sat on the bike to do some rough sizing and the height/reach is pretty comfortable for me. I might end up raising the saddle a hair or two once I take it for a shakedown ride. I am chomping at the bit but the USPS person delivered a cable guide that I ordered to the wrong mailbox which has delayed me a few days from finishing it
#297
Senior Member
No matter how I've adjusted my Fuji America, it always has a condition where the chain occasionally skips off the outside of the freewheel during a shift to the small cog. There's just enough of a gap on the dropout that it jams itself, rather than skipping back onto the freewheel. I've finally decided to attempt to implement a chain retention device. The skipping appears to happen near where the chain enters the freewheel, so that's where I've wanted to put something that could stop the chain from moving out toward the dropout. But it wasn't obvious that there was a convenient way to stick something there, and I wanted to keep the bike looking classic and not super weird and messy.
However.
The derailleur hanger bolt is right at the spot where I needed to stick something on the inside of the dropout. And I realized that, although the derailleur hanger bolt doesn't allow you to insert a hex key very deep, it's actually hollow all the way through, becoming a smaller cylinder after the hex section.
So I went over to the hardware store and got a 30mm-long 5mm-wide bolt with a rounded head, and a nut. Then I rode a block over to my nearest bike shop, and they let me use their sander to grind the bolt's head down to just the right thickness so that it wouldn't interfere with the chain in normal operation; there's enough of the philips head left that it still works with its intended screwdrivers. Then, we cut the bolt to the right length for aesthetic reasons.
Inside:
Outside:
Hopefully this works. If it doesn't, I'll find out within a couple hundred miles. Otherwise, I guess I'll never know.
However.
The derailleur hanger bolt is right at the spot where I needed to stick something on the inside of the dropout. And I realized that, although the derailleur hanger bolt doesn't allow you to insert a hex key very deep, it's actually hollow all the way through, becoming a smaller cylinder after the hex section.
So I went over to the hardware store and got a 30mm-long 5mm-wide bolt with a rounded head, and a nut. Then I rode a block over to my nearest bike shop, and they let me use their sander to grind the bolt's head down to just the right thickness so that it wouldn't interfere with the chain in normal operation; there's enough of the philips head left that it still works with its intended screwdrivers. Then, we cut the bolt to the right length for aesthetic reasons.
Inside:
Outside:
Hopefully this works. If it doesn't, I'll find out within a couple hundred miles. Otherwise, I guess I'll never know.
Last edited by HTupolev; 02-28-17 at 12:15 AM.
#298
Senior Member
No matter how I've adjusted my Fuji America, it always has a condition where the chain occasionally skips off the outside of the freewheel during a shift to the small cog. There's just enough of a gap on the dropout that it jams itself, rather than skipping back onto the freewheel. I've finally decided to attempt to implement a chain retention device. The skipping appears to happen near where the chain enters the freewheel, so that's where I've wanted to put something that could stop the chain from moving out toward the dropout. But it wasn't obvious that there was a convenient way to stick something there, and I wanted to keep the bike looking classic and not super weird and messy.
However.
The derailleur hanger bolt is right at the spot where I needed to stick something on the inside of the dropout. And I realized that, although the derailleur hanger bolt doesn't allow you to insert a hex key very deep, it's actually hollow all the way through, becoming a smaller cylinder after the hex section.
So I went over to the hardware store and got a 30mm-long 5mm-wide bolt with a rounded head, and a nut. Then I rode a block over to my nearest bike shop, and they let me use their sander to grind the bolt's head down to just the right thickness so that it wouldn't interfere with the chain in normal operation; there's enough of the philips head left that it still works with its intended screwdrivers. Then, we cut the bolt to the right length for aesthetic reasons.
Inside:
Outside:
Hopefully this works. If it doesn't, I'll find out within a couple hundred miles. Otherwise, I guess I'll never know.
However.
The derailleur hanger bolt is right at the spot where I needed to stick something on the inside of the dropout. And I realized that, although the derailleur hanger bolt doesn't allow you to insert a hex key very deep, it's actually hollow all the way through, becoming a smaller cylinder after the hex section.
So I went over to the hardware store and got a 30mm-long 5mm-wide bolt with a rounded head, and a nut. Then I rode a block over to my nearest bike shop, and they let me use their sander to grind the bolt's head down to just the right thickness so that it wouldn't interfere with the chain in normal operation; there's enough of the philips head left that it still works with its intended screwdrivers. Then, we cut the bolt to the right length for aesthetic reasons.
Inside:
Outside:
Hopefully this works. If it doesn't, I'll find out within a couple hundred miles. Otherwise, I guess I'll never know.
#299
Senior Member
I was intending to keep the original freewheel since it's original, should last forever, and has excellent acoustics... but if this doesn't solve the issue, I might see if going 7-speed would work.
#300
Senior Member
Alternately you could take a spacer from the drive side and put it on the non drive side of the axle, then dish the wheel accordingly.