Totally Tubular
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Ursa
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PSA: BikeINN, appears to have a comprehensive selection of tubular tires in stock, by most of the major manufacturers, at competitive prices, with many discounted.
I do realize (and not surprisingly) there are clincher tires mixed into this list which are labeled as "Tubular." Order cautiously. However, there are some great prices. For instance, this Maxxis Campione Tubular 700C x 23 Road Tyre, normally $169 for $44.
I do realize (and not surprisingly) there are clincher tires mixed into this list which are labeled as "Tubular." Order cautiously. However, there are some great prices. For instance, this Maxxis Campione Tubular 700C x 23 Road Tyre, normally $169 for $44.
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Bob
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Bob
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PSA: BikeINN, appears to have a comprehensive selection of tubular tires in stock, by most of the major manufacturers, at competitive prices, with many discounted.
I do realize (and not surprisingly) there are clincher tires mixed into this list which are labeled as "Tubular." Order cautiously. However, there are some great prices. For instance, this Maxxis Campione Tubular 700C x 23 Road Tyre, normally $169 for $44.
I do realize (and not surprisingly) there are clincher tires mixed into this list which are labeled as "Tubular." Order cautiously. However, there are some great prices. For instance, this Maxxis Campione Tubular 700C x 23 Road Tyre, normally $169 for $44.
#3181
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Excel Sports has had some fine deals recently.
https://www.excelsports.com/vittoria...ular-road-tire
I got Continentals Competitions for the same price in the fall, $96 for 2
BEWARE OF SHIPPING! You have to have $99 for free shipping
https://www.excelsports.com/vittoria...ular-road-tire
I got Continentals Competitions for the same price in the fall, $96 for 2
BEWARE OF SHIPPING! You have to have $99 for free shipping
#3182
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Back to the future…found these in a small parts drawer and decided to mount them as I was doing some brake work. Hoping to finally get a proper ride on the Vittorias tomorrow. 58F in February in the Hudson Valley of New York, aka False Spring.
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2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
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2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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Made it out for 20 miles today, official first ride on tubulars in at least
I still experience that a quality of ride which I can’t characterize that distinguishes tubulars from even the better clinchers. Glad I have them.
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2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
Last edited by ascherer; 02-11-24 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Typo = overtstating elapsed time
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Made it out for 20 miles today, official first ride on tubulars in at least 40 years. Relevant data: I weigh about 190 lbs. and had the front at 90 and the rear at 100 psi. My impressions are positive, the Vittorias are smooth and supple, not a big gap between the Rene Herse and similar supple clinchers on my other bikes. These are 30s, and I run 33-36 on my other bikes except my Mercian which barely takes 28. Most of the roadways I rode are smooth, but one has a cracked surface and it wasn’t uncomfortable, all my teeth stayed in place!
I still experience that a quality of ride which I can’t characterize that distinguishes tubulars from even the better clinchers. Glad I have them.
Actually I am pretty convinced that having all the air of the tire cross section between the rim and the road is just plain better.
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Appreciate the report! I picked up some of the same Vittorias from the sale a while back & have built up a set of tubular wheels to go on my Holdsworth and I'm really looking forward to giving 'em a try. Unfortunately, the Holds is currently stripped down and waiting for me to get my **** together and get it painted or powder-coated...
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...and ascherer just look how neat a taped tubular looks! Glad to hear how satisfied you are with the Vittoria tires.
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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[MENTION=94771]ascherer[/MENTION] - I love all of mine, both tubular and clincher. Try a higher pressure and see what you think. I run mine at 125/130 for 23 and 25's. They feel more sure on the road.
You may want to reverse the front tire scraper to match the rotation direction.
Bianchi1971IntegratedHeadset on Flickr
You may want to reverse the front tire scraper to match the rotation direction.
Bianchi1971IntegratedHeadset on Flickr
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106 miles yesterday on my glued 22mm Sprinters and Ambrosio Nemesis.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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I keep two tubular wheel sets ready to go: a free hub 130mm set and a FW 126mm set. This morning I moved the 25mm Sprinter Gatorskins from one wheel set to the other after I took off its 22mm Sprinters. And moved the Sprinters to the wheels that had the GS. Took about 1hour. Fresh glue on 4 rims with nicely stretched Continentals—easy peasy.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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Totally tubular beer.
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[MENTION=94771]ascherer[/MENTION] - I love all of mine, both tubular and clincher. Try a higher pressure and see what you think. I run mine at 125/130 for 23 and 25's. They feel more sure on the road.
You may want to reverse the front tire scraper to match the rotation direction.
Bianchi1971IntegratedHeadset on Flickr
You may want to reverse the front tire scraper to match the rotation direction.
Bianchi1971IntegratedHeadset on Flickr
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#3192
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A Very Slow Tubular Leak Question:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
My '71 Paramount P13 has been wearing a set of Schwalbe One tubes since 2015, and the rear tire has developed a very slow leak. It will drop from 100psi to 80psi in about 3 hours and will be flat in about 12-15 hours. I can't find anything puncturing the tire. I've not bothered to remove the wheel and place in water to locate the leak. I cannot hear the air leaking.
The tire in question is beginning to show its age. A few cuts and scrapes on the side wall. Thinning in the center of the tread with a few nicks and cracks here and there.
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
My '71 Paramount P13 has been wearing a set of Schwalbe One tubes since 2015, and the rear tire has developed a very slow leak. It will drop from 100psi to 80psi in about 3 hours and will be flat in about 12-15 hours. I can't find anything puncturing the tire. I've not bothered to remove the wheel and place in water to locate the leak. I cannot hear the air leaking.
The tire in question is beginning to show its age. A few cuts and scrapes on the side wall. Thinning in the center of the tread with a few nicks and cracks here and there.
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
- Add sealant and see if it stops the leak and ride?
- Use this as an opportunity to look for the leak and patch my first tubular?
- Celebrate the nine years of flat-free riding and mount a new set of Schwalbe Ones (I bought an extra set a while back)?
- Other options?
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#3193
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I would use some soapy water and try to determine the region of the leak. I would put in an ounce or so of Stan's, blow up the tire and give the wheel a good spin. I suspect that sort of slow leak will seal easily. Also, first be sure to look around the tire for flints. If the tire is retaining any glass, that slow leak might just get a bit faster, so you want to take the opportunity to remove any injuring objects from the tread.
Something also to bear in mind, that soapy water test might indicate a leaky valve stem, so you should check the core to be sure there's no garbage embedded there.
Something also to bear in mind, that soapy water test might indicate a leaky valve stem, so you should check the core to be sure there's no garbage embedded there.
Last edited by MooneyBloke; 03-01-24 at 11:47 AM.
#3195
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A Very Slow Tubular Leak Question:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
My '71 Paramount P13 has been wearing a set of Schwalbe One tubes since 2015, and the rear tire has developed a very slow leak. It will drop from 100psi to 80psi in about 3 hours and will be flat in about 12-15 hours. I can't find anything puncturing the tire. I've not bothered to remove the wheel and place in water to locate the leak. I cannot hear the air leaking.
The tire in question is beginning to show its age. A few cuts and scrapes on the side wall. Thinning in the center of the tread with a few nicks and cracks here and there.
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
My '71 Paramount P13 has been wearing a set of Schwalbe One tubes since 2015, and the rear tire has developed a very slow leak. It will drop from 100psi to 80psi in about 3 hours and will be flat in about 12-15 hours. I can't find anything puncturing the tire. I've not bothered to remove the wheel and place in water to locate the leak. I cannot hear the air leaking.
The tire in question is beginning to show its age. A few cuts and scrapes on the side wall. Thinning in the center of the tread with a few nicks and cracks here and there.
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
- Add sealant and see if it stops the leak and ride?
- Use this as an opportunity to look for the leak and patch my first tubular?
- Celebrate the nine years of flat-free riding and mount a new set of Schwalbe Ones (I bought an extra set a while back)?
- Other options?
#3196
Freewheel Medic
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First, make sure the valve core is tight. If that doesn't do it, sealant. I've not had good luck locating a puncture by putting tire in water as the bubbles are really only indicating where the air is escaping from the casing and that may not coincide with where it is escaping the tube.
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
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Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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Fantastic-looking Paramount by the way. Normally I wouldn’t requote a photograph but decided to make an exception this case!
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Stick it in water to find the leak. Although I haven't seen a leaky stem, it is worth checking out.
i have seen some slow leaks from punctures that required digging in the tread. Here is an example:
DeRosaVitGFlatGlass on Flickr
I have three tubes in the queue for repair.
I won't use sealant for the very same reasons you have experienced.
i have seen some slow leaks from punctures that required digging in the tread. Here is an example:
DeRosaVitGFlatGlass on Flickr
I have three tubes in the queue for repair.
I won't use sealant for the very same reasons you have experienced.
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A Very Slow Tubular Leak Question:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
I know this is about to curse my good fortune, but since first mounting and riding tubulars in 2015, I've never flatted my tubulars. I don't use sealant because I tend to let a bike sit for a long time before rotating it into use. I ruined two very nice Vittoria Course tubulars that I did add sealant to because it ran to the bottom and hardened (expensive lesson learned).
Looking for some collective advice as to how to proceed:
- Add sealant and see if it stops the leak and ride?
- Use this as an opportunity to look for the leak and patch my first tubular?
1. I suck at sew-up patching. I'm glad I tried a half-dozen times, and I know the process, but too much work for too small of a chance of success.
2. I generally don't use prophylactic sealant, but if I have a small puncture on a good tire, I'll try the sealant to see if it'll hold - and it does often enough and well enough to justify the attempt and make the tire last a lot longer.
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I'll try to find time today to pull the wheel off, dunk in water to see if a leak is detectable and will add sealant. The current condition of the tread and sidewall doesn't merit a full-blown repair. This tire has given me nine years of use with no issues until now. Tubular life is good!
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
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