Walmart E-zip?
#301
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El_heffe, as far as the switch configuration you mentioned, anything's possible. But I'm a bit puzzled on how some are running the two battery packs at the same time? This would be 48 volts. The ezip runs at 24 volts. I know it can handle 36v but 48? If I could afford it, I'd sure get lithium batteries. Also keep in mind that Dewalt now makes 36volt battery packs for it's tools and some bikers are wiring several of these in series. They are extremely light weight and are good for several thousand charges and don't develop memory. Pricey though.
The WalMart ezip comes with an A-B switch. It runs on one pack at a time and when the first A pack is empty you select the B pack to keep going. One could rewire the pack in parallel instead of series. 24V is maintained, but the Amp/hr add up instead for a longer range. One of the benefits to a parallel connection is two packs can be recharged overnight with only one charger.
I'm aware of the ezip's battery switch; I have one. What I meant was that some people here have mentioned running 48 volts to the motor, not just the standard 24v at a time. I do think the ezip can handle 36v to it at one time but it seems that 48v would either burn up the motor or overheat it quickly. As far as the Canadian 20v battery, that's an odd voltage. Too little to run the Currie motor and two together would be too much. If Currie was on top of things, it looks like they'd make lithium battery packs to fit our ezip trailz bikes. They'd be expensive, but at least an option. Just think of all the extra weight we'd lose from the bike and the increased efficiency. I guess one could remove the lead acid batteries from the ezip cases and replace with lithium. At least it could be done at any time in the future as lithium prices come down.
The WalMart ezip comes with an A-B switch. It runs on one pack at a time and when the first A pack is empty you select the B pack to keep going. One could rewire the pack in parallel instead of series. 24V is maintained, but the Amp/hr add up instead for a longer range. One of the benefits to a parallel connection is two packs can be recharged overnight with only one charger.
I'm aware of the ezip's battery switch; I have one. What I meant was that some people here have mentioned running 48 volts to the motor, not just the standard 24v at a time. I do think the ezip can handle 36v to it at one time but it seems that 48v would either burn up the motor or overheat it quickly. As far as the Canadian 20v battery, that's an odd voltage. Too little to run the Currie motor and two together would be too much. If Currie was on top of things, it looks like they'd make lithium battery packs to fit our ezip trailz bikes. They'd be expensive, but at least an option. Just think of all the extra weight we'd lose from the bike and the increased efficiency. I guess one could remove the lead acid batteries from the ezip cases and replace with lithium. At least it could be done at any time in the future as lithium prices come down.
#302
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preventing flat forever
While on a visit to Arizona the bike shops mentioned that they use a GOOP made specifically to be put in tires for offroad riders. This stops the spines from cactus from giving you flats while riding offroad. You should be able to use this in tires to prevent flats in any circumstance. Also read that some have put kevlar strips in the tires to prevent flats. Doing both these tasks should make your flat free forever.
#303
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#305
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The E-Zip is a nice electric bicycle for the price. If the price drops, I'll consider buying one for myself. With colder temperatures, a rider won't get some of the ranges posted here from people who bought during the summer. I'll have to test the voltages on the batteries again soon as the originals are nearing a year old. If the levels aren't sufficient, I plan on using the Renaissance charger to see if I can bring the batteries back to adequate levels first. Other than problems already posted, we haven't had too much difficulty with the bike. KEEP BOLTS TIGHT. USE BLUE LOCTITE. This E-Zip has about 3K miles on it and it will be ridden this winter, too.
Last edited by tpreitzel; 11-08-08 at 01:53 PM.
#306
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#307
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Yes, IF the price drops. Personally, I'd like to see the price at $300. Local Wal-Marts in my area don't carry the E-Zip. The on-line price is still listed at $400.
Last edited by tpreitzel; 11-12-08 at 03:13 AM.
#310
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Please more information
Thats correct + few more items.
For bit more detail,
The components (and cost) are... 3rd battery ($37), two 36volt controller ($17 x 2), cable/connector (radioshack - $15), rack bag (already had one), a small basket ($6 from Lowes), bungee cords ($10) and u-bolt ($4) to secure the basket.
For bit more detail,
The components (and cost) are... 3rd battery ($37), two 36volt controller ($17 x 2), cable/connector (radioshack - $15), rack bag (already had one), a small basket ($6 from Lowes), bungee cords ($10) and u-bolt ($4) to secure the basket.
Please expand more in details:
Did you buy same battery that already inside of the Currie pack?
Why 2 controllers? How you wired them?
There's one other item that I need to purchase - 36v throttle with battery led. This is because once you switch over to 36v, the LED on current controller is always lit up (because its 24v). So I decided to get the thumb setup rather than current twist throttle.
Once you have everything - it takes about 5-10 min to rewire the batteries and about 10-20 minutes for adding wires to one of the bike rack terminal. It actually takes more time to configure the bag/basket. I wanted to make sure that basket is really secure, while bag is removable for recharging in the house. I'll take some pics once I'm done with the final touches.
#313
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Doesn't look like it...
https://www.walmart.com/catalog/catalog.gsp?cat=538456
https://www.walmart.com/catalog/catalog.gsp?cat=538456
#314
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Battery Insulation During Winter
This question needs to be addressed during the winter: What's the lowest cost, most efficient means of thermally protecting the batteries of an E-Zip from ambient temperatures (1). I'll be looking into this question further, but I post it here in case someone else has an ingenious solution which doesn't include replacing battery chemistry. I'm looking forward to my own E-zip, but not riding it in 0F weather on icy roads. Except for the SLA batteries, the E-Zip is low cost which is a good reason to use it during winters.
(1) Estimate 30 minute exposure to outdoor temperatures. The battery packs can easily be removed from the bike and carried inside a warmer building.
(1) Estimate 30 minute exposure to outdoor temperatures. The battery packs can easily be removed from the bike and carried inside a warmer building.
Last edited by tpreitzel; 12-19-08 at 04:28 PM.
#315
low end rider
Saran wrap + NASA blanket. That should fit inside the OE battery case. Not much else will. Don't wrap the controller. Disclaimer: I have not tried this. Your bike may melt or something.
$230 on amazon now..
$230 on amazon now..
#316
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Impending trouble?
I've been using my 2009 eZip for about 6 months now. I normally have two battery packs in at the same time. Layely, i noticed that when I'm running as fast as the bike will go that the motor will cut out. It resumes again when I cycle the pedals a couple of times. It seems to be happening just about every time I ride now. I use the bike mainly to get back to the remote area that I hunt in. Once I get there the bike usually sits for 4-6 hours. I'm wondering if in that period of time that the battery gets "cold soaked" ( the temperature is usually around freezing) whether that may be the issue. Any thoughts?
#317
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I've been using my 2009 eZip for about 6 months now. I normally have two battery packs in at the same time. Layely, i noticed that when I'm running as fast as the bike will go that the motor will cut out. It resumes again when I cycle the pedals a couple of times. It seems to be happening just about every time I ride now. Any thoughts?
* Brakes need adjustment for sure
Last edited by tpreitzel; 12-20-08 at 04:45 PM.
#318
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From conversations with one chap with a 2007 model E-Zip, he said that his motor cut out frequently until he discovered that the lever for the front brake was becoming loose. Once he started pushing the left lever for the front brake outward (forward to the front), the motor started to run properly. * Personally, I haven't had the time to verify this information and it sounds ridiculous, but he steadfastly claims that something in the lever was causing the motor to cut out. Personally, I don't see how pushing the front brake lever outward would solve the problem.
Last edited by ecowheelz; 12-20-08 at 05:56 PM.
#319
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Actually, this makes perfect sense. There's a power cut-off switch built into the brake lever. It's a safety feature which cuts off power to the motor when you hit the brake. Most electric bikes have this safety feature built-in to prevent using the throttle / motor at the same time you're using the brakes.
Last edited by tpreitzel; 12-20-08 at 05:50 PM.
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#321
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My e-zip does this occasionally but not often. And mine occasionally won't kick in until I pedal a little. What I have done to stop this is turn the power switch off and back on. This seems to reset things. Also, there is a round sensor on the left pedal crank. I think this can be adjusted by turning. And of course, you always have to lock the battery onto the mount with your key. Just the slightest bumps in the road makes the battery jump up and down and become unconnected intermittently. I didn't realize until I read here that there was a connection between the brake and the motor. Makes sense.
#322
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I won't be much help but have a little input. We don't get much zero temps here but do have a lot of 20s and 30s farenhneit temps. I just keep the battery indoors until ready to go. I know that I'll be able to go as far as I need to go before the battery starts cooling down significantly. But in zero or below weather, I'm sure it's another story. I'd just make some test runs and see how long or far I could go. I guess a person could make some insulating blanket type wraps and wrap around the outside of the battery case, maybe with some handwarmer packs in it. Would probably be a real pain though.
#323
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hatesnow,
Do you know that e-zip has a knob(button) on throttle that you can switch from "pedal assist" mode to "turbo" mode? In pedal assist mode motor is not working until you start pedaling. In 'turbo' mode it works from stop.
Also, in cases when you think that battery disconnected try use switch on back of controler -I use to pull battery and push it back, but recently i found that in most cases i just need to use switch.
Do you know that e-zip has a knob(button) on throttle that you can switch from "pedal assist" mode to "turbo" mode? In pedal assist mode motor is not working until you start pedaling. In 'turbo' mode it works from stop.
Also, in cases when you think that battery disconnected try use switch on back of controler -I use to pull battery and push it back, but recently i found that in most cases i just need to use switch.
#324
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looking at this trailer insyead of the nashbar cargo trailer.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ild%20Carriers
any experiences with the ebike?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ild%20Carriers
any experiences with the ebike?