PhilPub

^That's superb! Not personally a fan of the Cinelli stem, but the modern wheels on the silver frame actually work really well.

Italuminium

tamaso206

Most road drop bars do not have parallel ramps and drops/flats-- this isn't an inherent obstacle to getting a good setup. From your photo, your levers are mounted too low on the bar. The traditional 'rule' is to imagine a line parallel to the bottom/flats of the drops, and set the lever tip to intersect that, as a starting point: example photo If you have the levers setup like this, or a bit higher, both the hoods and drop flats should be comfortable positions.

R3tired's bike photo is actually a perfect example and 'answer' to your question. As you can see, he has standard 'italian' style drop bars, but has the levers mounted higher than yours so that the flats of the drops are close to parallel (pointed at the rear brake, apprx) AND lever hoods that are flat or angled slightly. If you want to change to 'compact' drop bars, that is question of personal taste/comfort, but one that is separate from whether you have your bars/levers setup 'correctly'. Try the higher hood position, and if you still don't like that then consider different bars, IMO.

PhilPub

^ One thing I like about compact drops is that the area of bar immediately behind the hoods is also horizontal, with the hoods in the "correct" position, and I think it is this which you can't achieve with classic drops. Obviously it's personal preference as to whether you want that or not but I find when I'm resting on the hoods, this flat area is more comfortable for the fat paddy bottom of the palm that's just in front of the wrist, compared to the slight downward slope of the classic bars as shown above, e.g.:



(I've since angled the bars back by a degree or two, so the top of the hoods is ever so slightly closer to horizontal.)

tamaso206

No argument there, for sure. Although, depending on the specific lever brand/model and riders hand size, this may or may not make a lot of practical difference. Many current gen levers are functionally bar 'extensions' with enough of a hand perch so that your hand can rest entirely on the hoods, regardless of whether or not the ramps of the bar are horizontal or slightly down-sloping where the levers are mounted. I haven't ridden Sram enough to say, but in my experience this is true of current Campagnolo and Shimano (both 5700/6700/7900 and 11spd) lever hoods.

P.S. That Ron Cooper is stunning!

PhilPub

Thank you!

Yes, it occurred to me when wrapping my hands completely around a Campag hood in a bike shop the other day that, actually, I only really do that when I'm riding out of the saddle or braking, whereas most of the time I'm resting a little further back, utilising the hoods and top-of-bar. So that flat transition feels good for me, but may be less important depending on other people's preferred riding position on the hoods.

Ghayes23

Hello! I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. This thread inspired me to take and old Trek that I had been using as a single speed and build it up with a modern drivetrain. I'm building it using spare ultegra 6500 components from a different build, and plan on swapping out the black seat post, stem, and bars for something more in keeping with the vintage nature of the frame. Anyway, just wanted to share and I'll update as I get it all together.

RobbieTunes

Looks like an excellent start, and welcome to the forum.
The post and stem actually set off the ST logo fairly well.

Chrome Molly

Use a towel over that trek sticker, they are more fragile than they look. That trek should turn out very nice.

Standalone 

Looks very similar to mine!

Also under construction -- '83 Trek 520 with black post and stem, too.... pardon the mess. Better pics to follow.


EDIT: I advise rotating your bars "down" and moving your shifters so that they create a flat area -- see the picture below.

Those shifters are not placed correctly -- they're in a position that is closer to where old school levers should be. Either way, the bars are probably rotated way too high.

Fred Smedley

What bar is that?

PhilPub

Nitto M106, with a Dynamic stem.

beanteck

Just finished my 88 Ironman Master. Now if the weather would ever warm up...

shoota 

Hot.

RobbieTunes

What he said. +1

himespau 

Not sure if I'd like that better with white tape (not that I'd want to deal with keeping white tape clean myself) or if that'd be too over the top. But it definitely looks nice as is.

revchuck 

I'd definitely go with white bar tape and cable housings. If you're like me, it'll be a "sunny day" bike, and other bikes will be ridden when there's a chance of nasty weather and/or road.

shoota 

Fizik white bartape wipes clean easily.

ColonelJLloyd

Needs white tape and not yellow tires. Skin walls on black rims are cool.

shoota 

So cool even the pros are doing it. I like it alot too.

Paulfs67

Just finished a complete rebuild, taken a couple of years but worth it, such a nice ride.



With some Wolbers ( just waiting on a new front tire)

RobbieTunes

Very nice upgrade. Ride it in the coming winter?

Paulfs67

Oh I plan to ride it lots, winter here is pretty mild, but looks like a wet winter ahead

Italuminium

beautiful bike. I don't know why it took you so long to finish it, but I wish you at least as many hours riding this beauty!

Paulfs67

The main reason it took so long was the amount of work it needed

Here's how I picked it up


All the cable guides where rusted of and the brake bridge as well.