TheKillerPenguin

Apparently my team is fly by night, we didn't even do a spit shake or pinky swear

carpediemracing 

miyata man

Yes, I had to sign something that as an adult I'm honoring to help a small local shop to prosper. Season opener is this evening.

PepeM

Trying to 'speed up' my bike a little bit. Ordered some tubular wheels (50/60mm deep, which is deeper that I would have preferred, but those were cheap) which should cut a few grams and add some aero gainz that we all want. I am also thinking of getting one of those aero road bars. Has anyone tried the Easton EC70 or EC90? They seem to be a bit cheaper than similar options from other brands. Any others I should look at? Price is probably the most important, aeroness second, weight third.

cycledogg

I used to have the EC90. Good solid bars and the weight was ok. I just didn't like the ergo bend design, they were a little short in the drops. After a season of riding with them, I also got tired of the flat tops and went back to traditional bend bars. JMHO
Cheers

topflightpro

I have the EC70. Bought them about two months ago. I got them cheap. I forgot to weigh them before install, so I don't know how close to claimed weight they are.

I also have no idea how effective they are in terms of aero drag. I ended up with an aero frame, so I felt I also needed aero bars.

I don't mind the shape or drop.

PepeM

I'm not too crazy about the drop shape but I haven't tried, so can't tell whether I'll like it or not. I would probably go for the cheaper Ritchey alloy bar if it wasn't for that awful ergo shape.

topflightpro

The drop shape on the EC70 is pretty similar to my Deda Zero 100 bars, which I like. I used to run Ritchey WCS bars, but I now prefer the curve, reach, and drop of the Dedas.

miyata man

Noticed my pile of spare tires is dangerously low (Michelin Pro4 Endurancev2). Darn true to spec sizing in v2 was actually 23mm so I was glad not to have ordered many.

Anyone here had opportunity to put a set of Michelin Power Endurance through the paces?

grolby

I have the Zero 100s on my cross bike. Nice bars. I don't run them on the road because they don't go narrow enough.

Matt2.8NJ

3k on a set. Not a major upgrade over the Pro4.

revchuck 

The P4Es weren't too shabby - I went through fours set of them and liked them - so this isn't damning.

miyata man

Thanks, given the name and similarities I figured the PE was just a lighter version with less puncture protection. Maybe a slightly tweaked rubber compound. Going to stick with what I've been using.

Doge

I counted 16 parts in a Dura-Ace 9000 large chainring.

miyata man

Figured out I got 3K on the rear Pro4 Endurance. About half of that in sandy Winter conditions with lots of debris on the roads.

spectastic

Who here has experience with castelli san remo and bibshorts?

I usually wear medium and by castelli sizing chart, I should be wearing medium. However, I'm wearing mediums right now, and my outer thighs are experiencing some tightness from the fabric. I don't know whether this is normal for super aero tight fitting apparel, or whether I should be wearing a size up. My thighs are 21.5 in. I'm not sure whether it's taking away my watts yet. But it's certainly not worth it if it is.

Will it feel better over time?

spectastic

Just played around with the fit a little. Seems like I pulled the legging part too far up and the wrinkles were digging into my hip. After fixing that, the whole leg feels better but still kind of tight.

hack

i wear the same size in the aero bibs and the san remo ... fit feels similar enough for me

spectastic

the san remo felt nice once i pulled the fabric away from my hip so the wrinkles weren't digging into them as much.. the thing feels dang fast too.

revchuck 

I've planned a solo climbing camp in central Arkansas for the coming week, making sure I have time off from work etc. As luck would have it, rain and/or thunderstorms are predicted for the four days I'll be there. Any suggestions for keeping my bike from self-destructing while I'm there? I'm going to spray the chain with WD-40 prior to re-lubing it and wipe down the brake pads and tracks after riding, but I'm at a loss for what else might need to be done. If it bears on the problem, the goal is 24k feet; mileage will probably be 250-300 or whatever it takes to get the elevation.

miyata man

Carbon or aluminum wheels? If aluminum I'd swap in some salmon pads for braking and reducing wear on the braking surface of the rim. 24k in rain means a lot of descending.

Remove the seatpost every night, repack your headset halfway through the week, pull cranks if it gets really wet and then inspect the BB, remove and inspect tires for debris nightly, expect PM issues from rain. Even just rinsing the bike in clean warm water to remove the grit helps if you do nothing else but pull the post.

revchuck 

Aluminum wheels, no way I'd willingly ride my carbon wheels downhill in the rain. Too late to order brake pads, but I've had good luck with the standard Shimano ones. I'll probably repack the headset bearings when I get back and have access to workspace and tools, ditto with pulling the cranks. I guess I'll find out how watertight the Powertap G3 is. I've had good luck with it so far.

hack

zwift is dryer than riding in the rain

Doge

The thing with the rain is it normally comes with grit. Grit on any rims is not so good and worse on carbon. However, wet carbon with good pads seem to work as well as alloy.

jdms mvp

quick question

for 39/32t combination is a 114t chain probably ok? or do i need a 120 link chain?