RollCNY

OP, do you wear gloves or ride bare handed? Are your hands sore, or numb? No gloves and sore would suggest more time and acclimation, or getting gloves. Numb for me is a harder fix, and I usually solve by paying attention to my wrist angle. In your case, that is probably bar rotation.

Also, it may sound simplistic, but I find the best cure for hand soreness or numbness is to pedal harder. More weight on the pedals means less on the saddle and bars.

willydstyle

No gloves, and soreness rather than numbness.

I've noticed the same thing, when I'm really pushing myself in go-fast mode the whole bike is just more comfortable.

TGT1

I've only been at this seriously for a bit more than 18 months (at 64) and though I spend most of my time on the hoods or the corners had the same hand issues. One thing I don't think anyone has mentioned is core strength. I didn't think my hands would ever get to where they weren't hurting at some point on a long ride until I started doing some crunches and core focused weight work.

Do some core conditioning exercises so that your core is stable enough to the load off your hands. That doesn't mean you don't have a fitting issue, but even a perfect fit won't compensate for a weak core. Road bike posture isn't "normal" it takes some training and time for your core musculature to adapt.

so short answer, yes it does get better with time, but you can speed the process up with some crunches and weight work.

desconhecido 

If you have not been riding with the road bars for very long, you might find that the more you do it, the more flexible you feel in your torso which will allow you to maintain the riding position with less weight on your hands. That's what is suggested above -- you really don't put much weight on your hands when riding if you are doing it "right". Same with the saddle, imo. Most of the weight is actually borne by your legs whether you are pedaling hard, soft, or coasting. The saddle just supplies a little support and keeps your legs pointed in the right direction. That's the way it is for me, anyway. So, try to be lighter in the saddle and lighter on the bars and stronger on your legs, where the real work is done. Again, that's just my opinion and what works for me.

As mentioned, the relationship between the saddle and bars on your bike doesn't appear out of whack: bars at the level of the seat or maybe slightly below. With that amount of seat post showing, if you are riding without cramping your legs or rocking from side to side to reach max extension, the bike should be adjustable to your size. Again, that's my opinion and observation.

If you think that you aren't going to be able to get used to things the way they are -- you really shouldn't have discomfort or dis-function down below and you shouldn't have hand/arm/shoulder pain or numbness -- you might consider a shorter stem extension to bring the bars closer to the saddle. That may lessen your tendency (I'm assuming again) to put too much weight on the bars, which may be the source of your hand pain. Bringing the bars, or your hand position, closer to the saddle will allow a slightly more upright position in your lower torso which may make things there easier to adjust to (everything is inter-related). You might consider what I call a geezer stem. Nitto makes very nicely manufactured stems in a Cinelli 1A style which have medium and long extensions above the headset. They look great and will allow an even more upright riding style. A wide range of horizontal extensions is offered. I have one of these geezer stems on one of my bikes and I like it a lot. Only problem is that random strangers stop you and tell you that your stem is way too high and it's dangerous. Of course, it's not, because it's long and strong.

Nitto also makes a couple bar styles that are different from the normal. The Nitto Noodle bar has a bend which brings the horizontal section of the bars (and, I think, the drops) back a bit. It's like taking about 10 mm off the horizontal extension of the stem. The Nitto Rando flares the bars upwards a bit and flares the drops outwards. I think the net result for the drops is that they're a bit flared but not as deep as normal. It's like adding a cm or so to the stem height. I have a Nitto geezer stem coupled with noodle bars on one bike and it is easier for me to keep weight off the bars, off the saddle, and on the legs. It's almost like being 50 again. There are other features of these Nitto bars' shapes that are interesting -- just google and snoop around. Lots of free opinions and free advice.

colnago62

Do you have a relationship with a local bike club with an experienced coach? It really does sound like the problem is associated with how you are sitting on the bike. I ride with a very low position, I ride a H1 Madone with no spacers underneath the stem. I have very good flexibility and can ride low positions all day long. The biggest problem with being in the drops is that your vision isn't as good as when on the top of the bars; It is much easier to see when riding on the hoods..

colnago62

Also, try doing sit ups and other things to improve core strength. A strong core takes weight off the hands.

merlinextraligh

This. With the bars rotated, and the hoods slid down, it ends up creating a hand position that comes straight out from the top of the bars that you will likely find more comfortable.

SlowAndSlower

Wow what a nice old Fuji America, an older one at that. Looks all original too. I had one I bought new circa 1980 and another much later. And I still have one that I had some frame work done including S&S couplings.

Before doing anything to the bike checkout what its worth on the Classics and Vintage forum. You may want to sell it or trade it for a newer set up as what you have looks pretty pristine to me. In its day it was one fine touring machine.

willydstyle

It's very new to me, but there are some paint and rust issues that don't show up in the photos. It's still a great bike, and there's no way i'm selling it, but the original Cyclone FD was replaced with a Deore XT some time during its life. I've still only put maybe 100 miles on her, which is why I was curious, once the 100 turns into 1000 are these "growing pains" going to be gone, or is there something I'm doing drastically wrong fit-wise.

Kopsis

+1

On my gravel bike I have barcons and brake levers on a handlebar like yours where the ramps and drops are not parallel. I found that with the drops level, the angles were wrong for my hands in every position. In the drops my wrists were bent just enough to put extra pressure on the base of the palm. On the hoods, the bar angle had me sliding forward so all the weight was on the web of my thumb. On the ramps, I had to grip so hard to keep from sliding forward onto the hoods that my hands fatigued quickly. Rotating the bars up so the ramps are just a few degrees from level and the drops point at the rear axle made a world of difference.

willydstyle

I'll definitely try this.

RollCNY

OP, I find pointing to the rear axle, especially on larger old bikes (which are built short in length and tall in height), is too much, so I tend to point the drops at the rear brake. A cheap set of gloves goes along way, and Nashbar sells cycling gloves for around $7, IIRC. Personally, I also think modern brake levers are far more comfortable to big hands, and aren't expensive ($20-30). They will mean retaping the bars, but that is very straight forward, and it let's you position things the way you want.

As I said earlier, pay attention to kinks in your wrists, and don't lock your elbows.

willydstyle

I tried it with the bars pointing at the axle earlier, and it was indeed too steep, giving me a definite bend in my wrist. I switched it to pointing at the rear brakes, but it started raining and I don't have fenders. I can't wait to get out on a proper ride and try out some of the advice from this thread.

willydstyle

OK, update for everyone who gave me advice/input: what worked was moving the seat *forward* because it allowed me to raise the saddle height and make it more level while maintaining soft tissue comfort.

ColaJacket

I thought the seat position (fore/aft) should be mostly based on your knee position over the pedal spindle.

From Sheldon Brown (and yes, I know that this is one opinion of many on bike fit):

It is generally considered a Bad Idea to tinker with saddle position to adjust the reach to the handlebars; it is better to adjust this by replacing the handlebar stem with one with a different reach, or by buying a bicycle with a different length top tube.

So, I agree with the posters that mention tinkering with the stem and/or handlebars.

GH

SevenTwentyNine

Ease up on the force of your grip - you're probably holding on much tighter than you need to. Relax and loosen your shoulders then let this translate into also loosening up your arms etc. Be loose and fluid.

Deontologist

No, modern road bike stems can also be flipped.

dr_lha

Duh: You're replying to post from 2 weeks ago.

Double-duh: He means the OP's bike has a quill stem, which can't be flipped.

FFS!

Terex

Yay! Now all you need to do is ride more.