I don't bugger screws...
01-13-24, 06:16 PM
#26
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Now that the screw has already been cut, is it not possible to place a large slotted screw driver with a few shims and use the screw driver as a lever to push the other half of the screw on the side of cotter pin?
Or you can use a long punch after supporting the pin side properly, and use a hammer to gradually tap it out.
Or you can use a long punch after supporting the pin side properly, and use a hammer to gradually tap it out.
01-13-24, 07:33 PM
#28
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I'll do my best, but I can see Big Shimano rubbing their greedy hands together, thinking about selling another caliper. 😜 😜
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01-14-24, 07:46 AM
#30
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I suppose there could be a decent fox roast or two before the marauders show up.
01-14-24, 08:27 AM
#31
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01-14-24, 09:33 AM
#33
Didn't you already bugger with that screw?
01-18-24, 11:47 AM
#34
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Drilled it out successfully with a series of left hand (?) reverse bits. Add the new hex head pin and bit of black paint pen to cover the dremel mistakes...
Hard. Truly amazingly so, and fatal to the poor unsophisticated screw. 😜
Hard. Truly amazingly so, and fatal to the poor unsophisticated screw. 😜
Last edited by BTinNYC; 01-18-24 at 11:52 AM.
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01-18-24, 01:17 PM
#35
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This is your reminder that political posting is not allowed outside of the P&R forum. Everyone agreed to this when they signed up for an account. It really doesn't matter if you are joking or not, which is hard to tell sometimes, because most of y'all aren't as funny as you think you are.
Talk about covid is not allowed anywhere on the forum.
Talk about covid is not allowed anywhere on the forum.
01-18-24, 02:37 PM
#36
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Were you swinging that tiny screwdriver like a katana, or is it time for new glasses? Don't quit the day job...
01-18-24, 02:40 PM
#37
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01-18-24, 02:51 PM
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Slotted screws with a properly fitted screw driver can withstand higher torque than a hex head. I believe even higher than torx as well. The problem with this application is the OEM used substandard fasteners.
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01-18-24, 06:00 PM
#40
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I'd just like to thank wheelreason for reinforcing my statement about people that don't know they aren't funny.
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01-19-24, 05:20 AM
#41
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01-19-24, 06:12 AM
#42
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Steel into aluminum always needs grease or never seize.. I have modified screwdrivers for slotted stuff at work that can't be changed. Hollow ground and thick enough that you tap it in the slot. On aluminum or brass slotted screws that have enough head sticking up to get ahold of, I have driven 12 socket on it and turned it out with a ratchet
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01-19-24, 08:23 AM
#43
While a slotted head can be designed to withstand as much or more torque than other types, practical experience suggests the majority are not. The lack of any self centering ability is a major shortcoming both in production and out in the field.
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01-19-24, 10:06 AM
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The problem with hex is similar. Poorly fitting driver or bits, too soft of metal in the bit. Actual contact points are very small compared to a slotted screw of the same size.
The lack of self centering is an experience and ability issue.
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01-19-24, 10:28 AM
#45
I don't know.
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In gunsmithing, a custom-to-every-screw hollow-ground tip is how to avoid camming out of tight, oxidized screws:
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01-19-24, 10:33 AM
#46
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Not sure if this has been mentioned, but something to keep in mind with these particular fasteners is that there is a safety clip on the end, so they really don’t need to be tightened that much. They can also be replaced with a cotter pin to completely avoid this issue.
01-20-24, 03:25 AM
#48
Senior Member
which is also why it doesn’t matter if a slotted screw can handle more torque.
01-20-24, 07:50 AM
#49
Senior Member
Referring to Shimano as "greedy" was a joke, obviously. All successful for-profit corporations are greedy. That's what they're for.
That said, the truth about customers and Shimano:
Last edited by Trakhak; 01-20-24 at 08:02 AM.
