Going “All Allen Key” on C&V
#27
Senior Member
Decades ago, in 1975 I went to the an Aircraft Surplus place and found plenty of allen key fasteners for Campagnolo components.
for the cable bands and front mechanism band clamp I went to 10-32 in Titanium no less with matching Nylok nuts. Not too hard to find 5 mm metric today in ti.
for the cable anchor bolts all mechanisms, 5mm socket head fasteners in Stainless steel. ( check the 'bay for them in titanium today, also work for waterbottle braze on bosses (most) , toe clip fastening bolts.
Look for AN washers, not SAE, the AN washers have better tolerance.
Some noticed, many did not.
Harder to find Stainless steel screws for top tube cable clips.
for the cable bands and front mechanism band clamp I went to 10-32 in Titanium no less with matching Nylok nuts. Not too hard to find 5 mm metric today in ti.
for the cable anchor bolts all mechanisms, 5mm socket head fasteners in Stainless steel. ( check the 'bay for them in titanium today, also work for waterbottle braze on bosses (most) , toe clip fastening bolts.
Look for AN washers, not SAE, the AN washers have better tolerance.
Some noticed, many did not.
Harder to find Stainless steel screws for top tube cable clips.
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#28
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Anyone tried one of these?
Pedro's Trixie
I'm pretty sure it was designed for the hipster crowd (as demonstrated by the bottle opener). Most of my C&V bikes are modernized enough that a modern mini tool will serve, so I'm not sure how many of the options here are C&V useful. It's hard to see from the picture, but the open center section is graduated to serve as a series of box wrenches. The wing nuts are to attach it to a water bottle mount. I suppose that part isn't very C&V relevant.
Pedro's Trixie
I'm pretty sure it was designed for the hipster crowd (as demonstrated by the bottle opener). Most of my C&V bikes are modernized enough that a modern mini tool will serve, so I'm not sure how many of the options here are C&V useful. It's hard to see from the picture, but the open center section is graduated to serve as a series of box wrenches. The wing nuts are to attach it to a water bottle mount. I suppose that part isn't very C&V relevant.
Re: C&V - that tool (and my chainwhip) allow me to ride as races were ridden over 100 years ago with C&V body and knees. (Mountains, fix gear and 3 cogs for those big days to reflect a '50s vintage body.)
Ben
#29
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6.7 oz
Check out the Topeak Alien - its much like [MENTION=162233]20grit[/MENTION] Park tool. It has almost all of what you need, and for a recreational cyclist I can't imagine its too heavy, then again there is always Uber.....
My old school circa 2000 Alien weighs a whopping 6.7 ozs
Last edited by ryansu; 08-15-19 at 09:21 PM.
#30
Senior Member
A couple of weeks ago, I was halfway into a planned 100-mile ride when the fixing bolt on my American Classic seatpost came loose (they have a tendency to do that after many miles without a problem). In the interest of lighter weight, I had brought a somewhat minimal multitool rather than my usual Park kitchen sink model. Well, the correct Allen key was too short to reach the saddle bolt until I removed the bolt that controls tilt. That allowed me to tighten down the clamp, but it meant my saddle was too nose up for the rest of the ride. I survived but next time I’m bringing the kitchen sink (or maybe a single Allen key that fits that saddle clamp and is the right length).
#31
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Looks like great advice. There's an airport not far away (College Park, MD, America's first) and I could go over and ask where they get hardware locally, so I can browse. There used to be a great bolt place near here; I'd take all of bolts for my Tiger there to be matched up in stainless of Grade 8, depending on use ("six of A, fourteen of B, eight of C" etc.), they'd match them all up for me. Gone now.
Thanks for the heads up on the 10-32 and 5mm sizes.
Thanks for the heads up on the 10-32 and 5mm sizes.
Decades ago, in 1975 I went to the an Aircraft Surplus place and found plenty of allen key fasteners for Campagnolo components.
for the cable bands and front mechanism band clamp I went to 10-32 in Titanium no less with matching Nylok nuts. Not too hard to find 5 mm metric today in ti.
for the cable anchor bolts all mechanisms, 5mm socket head fasteners in Stainless steel. ( check the 'bay for them in titanium today, also work for waterbottle braze on bosses (most) , toe clip fastening bolts.
Look for AN washers, not SAE, the AN washers have better tolerance.
Some noticed, many did not.
Harder to find Stainless steel screws for top tube cable clips.
for the cable bands and front mechanism band clamp I went to 10-32 in Titanium no less with matching Nylok nuts. Not too hard to find 5 mm metric today in ti.
for the cable anchor bolts all mechanisms, 5mm socket head fasteners in Stainless steel. ( check the 'bay for them in titanium today, also work for waterbottle braze on bosses (most) , toe clip fastening bolts.
Look for AN washers, not SAE, the AN washers have better tolerance.
Some noticed, many did not.
Harder to find Stainless steel screws for top tube cable clips.
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#32
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Seriously? Perhaps if you stick to short distances and roads as smooth as a baby's butt. Do any amount of gravel riding and stuff will be shaken loose or out of adjustment, or will get bent requiring adjustments. I use my MT-1 pretty frequently, either for my own, or my fellow riders' bikes. I also carry tiny slip-joint pliers which weigh very little but have been worth their weight in gold numerous times (last time was when a friend's cassette lockring unscrewed...used the pliers as a crude pin wrench to put it back together). I have stopped carrying my chain tool, but I'm not sure that is a good idea since my last on the road mechanical problem was a snapped chain.
#34
Pedalin' Erry Day
I agree with Conspiritoramus on this one - the main reason I carry a multi-tool is so that I can help other people, usually other riders who neglected proper maintenance. I carry a Park MT-1 and have used it maybe three times in the past year, once as an improvised tire lever, and twice while visiting at a relative's house where we needed an allen key to disassemble furniture and they couldn't find any in the toolbox: "hold on, I've got one, let me go out to my bike."
#35
Used to be Conspiratemus
Well, OK, gravel riding would be a new set of skills and "best practices" as regards tools so you're right, there. As for distances, I rode a solo unsupported century (actually 164 km) on 31 July with only my two Allen wrenches and two tubes instead of my usual one. There was a little bit of gravel but only on a road that I know is usually OK and there was more nice smooth new pavement in the unfamiliar parts than I had dared hope for. But our roads don't stay smooth for very long. Nothing came loose, nothing has come loose on that bike (Mariposa, to be posted under "M" soon) in like 20 years. The more bikes in company, the more likely that at least one will have a mechanical problem, also true. We do carry a bit more stuff on the tandem, which gets most of the kilometres nowadays. But it's not C&V.
Last edited by conspiratemus1; 08-16-19 at 12:11 PM.
#36
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#37
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And there I am carrying this toolkit every time I go out.
The Knipex wrench plier is great for every single bolt between 0-27mm. Shame it isn't a bit bigger or else I could have adjusted my headset too.
EDIT: added a Parktool chain breaker in the meantime.
Still, my most used tool is the Swiss tool with the different bits.
The Knipex wrench plier is great for every single bolt between 0-27mm. Shame it isn't a bit bigger or else I could have adjusted my headset too.
EDIT: added a Parktool chain breaker in the meantime.
Still, my most used tool is the Swiss tool with the different bits.
Last edited by JaccoW; 08-16-19 at 12:46 PM.
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#38
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What -- no shop stand?
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
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#39
Used to be Conspiratemus
And there I am carrying this toolkit every time I go out.
The Knipex wrench plier is great for every single bolt between 0-27mm. Shame it isn't a bit bigger or else I could have adjusted my headset too....
EDIT: added a Parktool chain breaker in the meantime.
Still, my most used tool is the Swiss tool with the different bits.
The Knipex wrench plier is great for every single bolt between 0-27mm. Shame it isn't a bit bigger or else I could have adjusted my headset too....
EDIT: added a Parktool chain breaker in the meantime.
Still, my most used tool is the Swiss tool with the different bits.
#40
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Mine just arrived: according to my wife's kitchen scale, only 42 grams. I can live with that. This buys me time to decide if and how to "update" the various bolts.
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#41
Senior Member
In addition to the MT-1, I will point out that most SunTour Superbe and Cyclone bits used Allen keys for the bulk of their fasteners by 1980, so you can have a c&v aesthetic without replacing a bunch of fasteners. My Griffon is nearly all Superbe. I think everything takes hex keys. The exceptions are the brake and crank fixing bolts, and the saddle clamp bolts (two-bolt NR).
#42
Senior Member
I don't find it difficult to carry 8 and 10mm wrenches on a tour. But I have thought about switching from old-school hex-head crank bolts to modern 8mm allen bolts, since it would eliminate the need to carry a 14mm socket wrench, for use in the event of a loose crankarm (not that I ever actually carry a 14mm socket). Maybe I'll actually get around to it someday.
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#44
Senior Member
Better to have and not need, than to need and be SOL 🤪
#45
Senior Member
FWIW, on my outback Australia self-supported tours I carried lots of tools and parts - including spoke wrenches and spokes (needed by the bike shop in Katherine, NT in August 2006). The Park chain "link breaker" tool was heavy, but a god-send, not just for me but for several tourers I met with a busted chain. Oh, chain links too.
Better to have and not need, than to need and be SOL ��
Better to have and not need, than to need and be SOL ��
I maintain however that a properly set up all campy Masi or equivalent should not require any tools for a normal ride. That's kind of what it's designed for. FWIW I rode my campy Masi for years and never needed tools on the road. This was for long distances and often over substantial gravel sections.
#46
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Good for you guys who never need tools. I fuss with my bike fit all the time.
#47
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I like the idea of allen heads under dustcaps. Ive nevr had anything new enough that didn't use a peanut butter wrench, so it never occurred to me. Ive had a lot of loose cranks on rides, and i hate carrying a big wrench.
As an aside, my new mtb is about half torx half allen, so I'm thinking of switching to all torx.
As an aside, my new mtb is about half torx half allen, so I'm thinking of switching to all torx.
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