What have you been wrenching on lately?
#5051
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,981
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
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Slipstream update: the crankarm broke right across the taper for the BB. Don't believe I've ever seen that on a bike that wasn't completely beat to crap.
This one is an Acera 170mm and the closest thing I have handy is an Alivio 175 so I'll keep looking. Turns out several of the fasteners are corroded, the front rim strip had decayed and general lube and massage is indicated. More as it happens.
This one is an Acera 170mm and the closest thing I have handy is an Alivio 175 so I'll keep looking. Turns out several of the fasteners are corroded, the front rim strip had decayed and general lube and massage is indicated. More as it happens.
Last edited by thumpism; 05-07-22 at 06:57 PM.
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#5052
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,221
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
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716 Posts
Fenders for the Schwinn Continental
I finally settled on the choice of fenders for the Continental. Velo Orange Stainless steel.
Rear eyelet attachment from the drive side
Seat stay mount
Fork mount
There are always challenges when mounting fenders. I can't remember one where I didn't have to go into my stash of hardware to find some way to adapt the fender, and some bending is always required. This install was no different, At least I didn't have to run to the hardware store for a solution. So, not too bad. The Schwinn did not have threaded fender eyelets and this was the source of finding hardware to make it work. You may also notice that the tab on the fork mount needed to be bent to clear the headset cup. Looking at that picture, it appears that I can get the front fender to move up just enough to get the fender line right.
These fenders are make for 700C so it they are a little tighter fit on 27" x 1-1/4" tires. Which is fine.
Rear eyelet attachment from the drive side
Seat stay mount
Fork mount
There are always challenges when mounting fenders. I can't remember one where I didn't have to go into my stash of hardware to find some way to adapt the fender, and some bending is always required. This install was no different, At least I didn't have to run to the hardware store for a solution. So, not too bad. The Schwinn did not have threaded fender eyelets and this was the source of finding hardware to make it work. You may also notice that the tab on the fork mount needed to be bent to clear the headset cup. Looking at that picture, it appears that I can get the front fender to move up just enough to get the fender line right.
These fenders are make for 700C so it they are a little tighter fit on 27" x 1-1/4" tires. Which is fine.
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#5054
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 398
Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L
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165 Posts
FINALLY nearing the finish line on updating my girlfriend's bike. The project has been plagued with minor setback after minor setback. Today's ordeal was the realization I'd already used one of the brake cables for another bike. Tires on order. I'll grab a brake cable tomorrow, probably get some new brake pads as well. There's also a different set of Sunrace thumbies on the way. I didn't realize the rear in this set was 9-speed index only. I pulled the two ball bearings which establish the indexing out and it friction shifts fine right now, but I'm not sure how long that will last. The friction thumbies are silver and red too, so they'll look better. Waiting on 165mm SunXCD arms to come in, 172.5 standing in for the time being. Beauty shots when all is finally said and done.
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#5055
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 398
Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L
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165 Posts
Here it is just about complete. Only needs brake pads and final brake adjustment. Could probably shorten the rd housing too but it was being finicky before and works fine as is. Very pleased with the result. I love the rear Mafac location too, it’s one of my favorite bike details.
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#5056
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,971
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200, Soma double cross 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball, Waterford rs11
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1,389 Posts
My neighbors son asked about a bike so I pulled out an old Hardrock for 6' teen. Told hin to come try it out and spent a few minutes explaining friction shifting. Adjusted the seat and turned it over to him. Down the driveway he goes and a hard right behind a hedge and I hear him go down. Guess I should have asked if he knew how to ride, lol.
#5057
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern NY...Brownville
Posts: 2,657
Bikes: Specialized Aethos, Specialized Diverge Comp E5
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308 Posts
Worst bike: No name beach cruiser bought on the interwebz and assembled, or at least started to/tried to, by the customer's friend. Brought to the shop where I work for us to build. Looking the bike over I notice how close the fork tips are to each other...uh oh...put the front wheel to the fork and yep it's not going to fit. The fork was welded incorrectly at the factory, or behind somebody's tin hut more likely, and are too close at the tips by over a centimeter and no way can they be "persuaded" to move out enough for the hub to fit. New fork on order. The rest of the bike is just cheap junk. But we'll get it working and it likely will cost more than buying a real bike at a local shop.
Best bike: Working on a new build. 2022 Spesh Tarmac SL7. Building it from the frame up. Ultegra 11 speed Di2, some very nice Campy Carbon wheels. Waiting on a couple of fiddly bits, which should be in tomorrow, and with a bit of luck the bike may be finished tomorrow...fingers crossed.
The parts for this bike were bought basically one piece at a time...boy what a pain in the ass...waiting, waiting, waiting...hoping the parts are on the way...nope...back in the box...building a bike this way is a real pain in the ass.
When I built my Aethos several months ago I had all the parts and had it built in one day and a couple of beers...in my home shop, not the work shop lol. All this waiting, the Tarmac frame came in before my Aethos frame arrived, is driving me crazy...I want it done so I can move on to another build.
Best bike: Working on a new build. 2022 Spesh Tarmac SL7. Building it from the frame up. Ultegra 11 speed Di2, some very nice Campy Carbon wheels. Waiting on a couple of fiddly bits, which should be in tomorrow, and with a bit of luck the bike may be finished tomorrow...fingers crossed.
The parts for this bike were bought basically one piece at a time...boy what a pain in the ass...waiting, waiting, waiting...hoping the parts are on the way...nope...back in the box...building a bike this way is a real pain in the ass.
When I built my Aethos several months ago I had all the parts and had it built in one day and a couple of beers...in my home shop, not the work shop lol. All this waiting, the Tarmac frame came in before my Aethos frame arrived, is driving me crazy...I want it done so I can move on to another build.
#5058
Overdoing projects
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,443
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
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Replaced the crankset and upgraded the drivetrain on the SilverAce to Hollowtech II and a better gear range. (36.2-92.6 vs. 31.6-80.9) I was always spinning out with the old crankset. I had some issues with the crankset needed for the full coverage chaincase not holding up to the way I ride my commuter bike in the city so I'm going to try this minimalistic Simplex Chainguard REF C2 A for a while. I might try something with a bit more coverage if I can find it or even go for one of those classic Porteur chain cases if I can find them.
Since I needed to take out the rear wheel to change to a larger sprocket I relubed some of the bearings in the rear hub.
Since I needed to take out the rear wheel to change to a larger sprocket I relubed some of the bearings in the rear hub.
Likes For JaccoW:
#5059
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 28,119
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
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1,645 Posts
It's too cold to ride, STILL, and I just don't feel like going to the market so I thought I do a small job that's been waiting. Now you all know I have a strange love hate thing with Shipmano and I've hated for years that I had DA shifters and RD on my baby. Well I've been looking for a good condition 1st Gen Chorus but the few I've seen are too expensive and the same for a SuperBee Pro. One day I spotted this nice clean GPX and thought why not? Paired with some Campanutella Doppler shifters it should make for nice smooth shifting.
The Campanutella Doppler shifters may be my all time favorite shifter. Very elegant curve and incredibly smooth operation. It's funny that this Campione de Mondo decal has been on here since 1990 and I never noticed it's slightly off center.
One thing I'll miss about the DA shifters is how the left/front shifter stands up to make it easier to shift with the right hand.
I think I need a slightly shorter chain, Ill have to look through the boxes in the garage. There should be a few very low milage KMC 7/8/9 speed ones that will work.
The wheels are the fabulous Electra Ticino "Sheriff Star" hubs with shipmano 8spd FH body, the rims are polished silver Ticino and Pasela tires. I running a 12-25(?) with a 42/53 upfront. It pretty good combo fro around here but I could probably go to a 23
Just a little thing I did a few months ago
The Campanutella Doppler shifters may be my all time favorite shifter. Very elegant curve and incredibly smooth operation. It's funny that this Campione de Mondo decal has been on here since 1990 and I never noticed it's slightly off center.
One thing I'll miss about the DA shifters is how the left/front shifter stands up to make it easier to shift with the right hand.
I think I need a slightly shorter chain, Ill have to look through the boxes in the garage. There should be a few very low milage KMC 7/8/9 speed ones that will work.
The wheels are the fabulous Electra Ticino "Sheriff Star" hubs with shipmano 8spd FH body, the rims are polished silver Ticino and Pasela tires. I running a 12-25(?) with a 42/53 upfront. It pretty good combo fro around here but I could probably go to a 23
Just a little thing I did a few months ago
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Likes For Bianchigirll:
#5060
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 6,060
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
Liked 3,753 Times
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1,716 Posts
Replaced the crankset and upgraded the drivetrain on the SilverAce to Hollowtech II and a better gear range. (36.2-92.6 vs. 31.6-80.9) I was always spinning out with the old crankset. I had some issues with the crankset needed for the full coverage chaincase not holding up to the way I ride my commuter bike in the city so I'm going to try this minimalistic Simplex Chainguard REF C2 A for a while. I might try something with a bit more coverage if I can find it or even go for one of those classic Porteur chain cases if I can find them.
Since I needed to take out the rear wheel to change to a larger sprocket I relubed some of the bearings in the rear hub.
Since I needed to take out the rear wheel to change to a larger sprocket I relubed some of the bearings in the rear hub.
#5061
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 3,193
Bikes: Paramount, Faggin, Ochsner, Ciocc, Basso
Liked 2,178 Times
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1,272 Posts
I am spending a bit of my Sunday to find out what a couple of rear derailleurs are and what the correct period for them. I'm thinking they may be 1st gen Chorus or maybe second gen. My Co-Op kids gave them to me last week when I was there dropping a few bits off. Help would be appreciated. Smiles, MH
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
Seems to be complete.
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
Seems to be complete.
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
#5062
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 28,119
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Liked 3,263 Times
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1,645 Posts
I am spending a bit of my Sunday to find out what a couple of rear derailleurs are and what the correct period for them. I'm thinking they may be 1st gen Chorus or maybe second gen. My Co-Op kids gave them to me last week when I was there dropping a few bits off. Help would be appreciated. Smiles, MH
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
I think this early 8spd Ergo, they didn’t have names on them then.
Seems to be complete.
This is the first generation Chorus, too bad the pulleys and especially the mounting bolt and washer that goes between it and the derailleur
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
I think this early 8spd Ergo, they didn’t have names on them then.
Seems to be complete.
This is the first generation Chorus, too bad the pulleys and especially the mounting bolt and washer that goes between it and the derailleur
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Likes For Bianchigirll:
#5063
Senior Member
Ducati 250 Scrabler
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#5065
Senior Member
This won't be 100% period correct, but is a fun project. Head is going off to New York for bigger valves. Any hints on building motorcycle wheels?
Likes For Yune_Garage:
#5067
Full Member
I've laced a few wheels for my Motogiro bikes. Before I tore them down I fabbed up a jig with the axle mounted in the center so I could get the offset correct on reassembly. I used it for truing the wheel after. I was happy with the results. I bought aluminum rims for my Benelli Sprite and didn't have alot of confidence in getting new SS spoke lengths right so I had a local wheel builder do it for me. He did a great job. One of these days I'll get the bike completed and see how they go down the road.
#5068
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
Posts: 5,037
Bikes: A few too many
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#5069
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,981
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Liked 2,486 Times
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1,578 Posts
The battered and forlorn Trek 620 frame and fork I got from steine13 has been languishing in the garage because I have plenty of household projects to occupy me, but I brought home an antique door that needs to be stripped so while the bride was doing that I figured I'd tackle the old paint on the Trek. She is using Peel-Away on the door and it's great, but that stuff didn't faze the Imron on the frame. I tried some different stripper and it seems to be working but that's a messy and smelly task. Called around about sandblasting but that's way too costly for a cheap bike project, especially one that'll get a spray can rebuild.
Old paint does not look terrible but there's rust around the TT cable guides that needs to be sanded and there are plenty of chips that otherwise would not bother me but this will take care of them, too.
You can see surprise patches of rust that were under the old paint.
Spray paint will be a definite improvement and it need not look great. Don't know when I'll ever get it built up but this is the first step. Last time I used Rustoleum's Titanium color and will likely do the same on this one.
Old paint does not look terrible but there's rust around the TT cable guides that needs to be sanded and there are plenty of chips that otherwise would not bother me but this will take care of them, too.
You can see surprise patches of rust that were under the old paint.
Spray paint will be a definite improvement and it need not look great. Don't know when I'll ever get it built up but this is the first step. Last time I used Rustoleum's Titanium color and will likely do the same on this one.
#5070
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 7,561
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Liked 3,590 Times
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2,254 Posts
I think the complete one might be an Athena...?
I am spending a bit of my Sunday to find out what a couple of rear derailleurs are and what the correct period for them. I'm thinking they may be 1st gen Chorus or maybe second gen. My Co-Op kids gave them to me last week when I was there dropping a few bits off. Help would be appreciated. Smiles, MH
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
Seems to be complete.
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.
Seems to be complete.
Which fixing bolt does this one take?
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
#5071
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,504
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Liked 6,810 Times
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3,892 Posts
The battered and forlorn Trek 620 frame and fork I got from steine13 has been languishing in the garage because I have plenty of household projects to occupy me, but I brought home an antique door that needs to be stripped so while the bride was doing that I figured I'd tackle the old paint on the Trek. She is using Peel-Away on the door and it's great, but that stuff didn't faze the Imron on the frame. I tried some different stripper and it seems to be working but that's a messy and smelly task. Called around about sandblasting but that's way too costly for a cheap bike project, especially one that'll get a spray can rebuild.
Old paint does not look terrible but there's rust around the TT cable guides that needs to be sanded and there are plenty of chips that otherwise would not bother me but this will take care of them, too.
You can see surprise patches of rust that were under the old paint.
Spray paint will be a definite improvement and it need not look great. Don't know when I'll ever get it built up but this is the first step. Last time I used Rustoleum's Titanium color and will likely do the same on this one.
Old paint does not look terrible but there's rust around the TT cable guides that needs to be sanded and there are plenty of chips that otherwise would not bother me but this will take care of them, too.
You can see surprise patches of rust that were under the old paint.
Spray paint will be a definite improvement and it need not look great. Don't know when I'll ever get it built up but this is the first step. Last time I used Rustoleum's Titanium color and will likely do the same on this one.
Heat and sun speeds this process up immensely,
I scratch them up with a very rough sanding sponge than lay them out in the sun on a black garbage bag, slather on the stripper with a brush and wait, once starts to lift, I slather again and wait. At a certain point when the sun is right you can literally almost see it bubbling.
That's when I get out the stout welding slag style wire brush and saw the paint right off, repeat until just the nooks and crannies are left, slather them and dig in with smaller wire brushes like tubing brushes from Harbor Freight.
Its still pretty labor intensive but you can let it bake while you tend to other things and it is far less tedious than inch by inch scraping, that can be at the very end with picks and small scrapers.
You need good sun for heat so has to be warm outside to work well but I have warmed frames up in the house and used a heat gun to get it warmer as well.
I have a couple of old 1/2 glass storm doors that I'm going to build a hot box with that may speed the process up even more.
#5072
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 3,193
Bikes: Paramount, Faggin, Ochsner, Ciocc, Basso
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1,272 Posts
Jdawg,
it doesn't really matter much as they won't be staying here. I guess they are going into the Mad Honk's Trunk Junk sale thread when I get to it. I'm very busy right now, Cuda Kurt sent me his Raleigh Pro frame and it is going to test my metalworking skills a bit to repair the seat lugs. I'm guessing my Masters level skills at clubhead grinding will help me get the job done. Some welding this week and the finishing the lugs. My guys at the pro refinishing shop have matched the original color of the top tube so I will need to get out the air brush equipment and be sure it still works. Hopefully I can start a thread later after the work starts. Smiles, MH
it doesn't really matter much as they won't be staying here. I guess they are going into the Mad Honk's Trunk Junk sale thread when I get to it. I'm very busy right now, Cuda Kurt sent me his Raleigh Pro frame and it is going to test my metalworking skills a bit to repair the seat lugs. I'm guessing my Masters level skills at clubhead grinding will help me get the job done. Some welding this week and the finishing the lugs. My guys at the pro refinishing shop have matched the original color of the top tube so I will need to get out the air brush equipment and be sure it still works. Hopefully I can start a thread later after the work starts. Smiles, MH
#5073
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,788
Bikes: '38 Schwinn New World, ’69 Peugeot PX-10, '72 Peugeot PX-10, ‘7? Valgan, '78 Raleigh Comp GS, ’79 Holdsworth Pro, ’80 Peugeot TH-8 tandem, '87 Trek 400T, ‘7? Raleigh Sports, ‘7? Raleigh Superbe, ‘6? Hercules
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815 Posts
pd-a520........
Picked up a pair of PD-A520 pedals cheap. Pretty banged up, but seller said they spun freely. Well, maybe a little too freely, so I did what I do and decided to take 'em apart. Oy, the BBs in these are SMALL!! Really hoping I can get it back together... I actually only totally took one apart and thought better of it for the second. Soaking and flushing with mineral spirits, adjusting the cones and greasing seemed to do it for the one I didn't take totally apart. Should've just done that for both! Also stripped the anodizing, did some sanding and polishing. They still look kinda banged up, but now they're shiny (& I think they'll look good on the PX-10...)!
#5074
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 398
Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L
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165 Posts
I've been unsure whether this Multi-Track would fit me, and I'm still not 100% convinced it will, but it may make an excellent around-town beater. Mostly had parts lying around. Bought some Maxxis Receptors and Soma Lauterwasser bars and a cheap, beat-up set of Sugino XD2 crankarms. I love the cable housing routing that's resulted from the bar/stem combo. The shift housing could be cut down more. It's running as a 1x7 right now. I'm waiting on a set of wheels from a friend, so it'll get a couple more gears if I keep it.
#5075
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,074
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Likes: 0
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246 Posts
Just finished moding this Miyata 610 . Upgraded most of the running gear including a nice set of Suntour side pull brakes . converted to upright bars and thumbies for a classy urban cruiser.
At the moment I am painting 3 bikes. One is a Schwinn world Sport that had a dent in the top tube that I finally rolled out with the new frame blocks I just purchased for the shop. the second is reputed to have started life as a raleigh Professional but has been modded so much it is hard to believe it still is. It also had dents in the top and down tube which I fixed. The third is a Novara junior tri bike with 26 inch rims carrying 26 x 1.125 tires with 2x8 spd brifters on an aluminum frame with a HEAVY Steel mtb fork. painting is going well with all but the Novara finished. will show pictures later.