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Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

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Old 01-19-16, 01:02 PM
  #5201  
noglider 
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It occurs to me that modifying the frame in a drastic way would solve the problem, but it could be hard, and it seems risky. Either crush the ends of the stay near where it meets the dropout or put two bends in the right stays so that they flare out and then back in at a better angle.

This is a picture from above of my Lemond Ti bike. The stays swing out and then the dropouts are attached in parallel fashion.



The frame is from about 1994, and it was easy to put in a 10-speed rear wheel. The wheel fits perfectly and precisely and easily.
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Old 01-19-16, 01:34 PM
  #5202  
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Originally Posted by noglider
It occurs to me that modifying the frame in a drastic way would solve the problem, but it could be hard, and it seems risky. Either crush the ends of the stay near where it meets the dropout or put two bends in the right stays so that they flare out and then back in at a better angle.

This is a picture from above of my Lemond Ti bike. The stays swing out and then the dropouts are attached in parallel fashion.



The frame is from about 1994, and it was easy to put in a 10-speed rear wheel. The wheel fits perfectly and precisely and easily.
@noglider Have you tried that wheel in eather frame? A 10sp chain will also give a breath more space than the 7sp you tried.
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Old 01-19-16, 01:39 PM
  #5203  
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Originally Posted by noglider
My question is not about how to space the hub. The question is how to fit a hub into a frame with this particular shape. I think newer frames have thinner stays or they are bent differently so as to avoid coming near the cogs.
Do you want to be able to use the smallest cog? If not, you could try using an 11-to-whatever 9 or 10 speed cassette while setting your high gear limit stop on the rear derailleur to prevent shifting onto the 11 tooth cog.
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Old 01-19-16, 04:56 PM
  #5204  
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@peugeot mongrel, good question. No, and I will.

Thank you for the idea, @rowebr. I guess it might be worth sacrificing a gear. 11t cogs are dumb, anyway.
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Old 01-19-16, 07:31 PM
  #5205  
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Not STI/Ergo, but 7800 shifters are new, just traditional.

56cm frame/fork, Shimano 600EX headset.
FSA SL-K BB386 crankset/BB, Wellgo Optigo Magnesium pedals. SRAM PC1070 chain.
DA cassette, 6500 hubs, DTSwiss R585 rims, stainless spokes, Michelin Lithion 700x25's.
Nitto Young stem, Nitto Olympiade (B115-420) bars, Bontrager Gel wrap.
Gipiemme seatpost, Bontrager Inform RL saddle, Transit bag.
DA 7800 shifters, Shimano 5700 RD, FD on an Origin8 mount.
The black cage that comes on the silver 5700 RD was swapped with a silver cage from a black RD.
Jagwire cables/housing, Modolo Pro brake levers and Shimano 5700 NOS calipers.

I was looking for a little "lighter" look, so the cage is Elite Ciussi in lieu of a black carbon.






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Old 01-19-16, 09:16 PM
  #5206  
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Originally Posted by ajotacece



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Old 01-20-16, 11:36 AM
  #5207  
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Originally Posted by noglider
I have a couple of questions for people who have made this conversion. My 1971 Raleigh Super Course and my 1974 Raleigh International are made similarly, particularly where the chainstays meet the dropouts. The ends of the dropouts are close to each other and leave little room for cogs. I was unable to put a 7-speed freewheel in either, because the last cog would scrape the chain stay. Converting to a freehub with an 8- or 9- or 10-speed freehub looks dicey. Has anyone dealt with this, or does anyone have an idea?

Here are pictures shot from above showing the small clearance between the frame and a 6-speed freewheel. I'm currently using 6-speed freewheels on both.

Thank you for any help you can offer.
I put a couple washers as spacers between the frame & cassette so the 12T cog on a 9-speed wouldn't hit the frame's chainstay. It *just* clears. Hopefully you'll be lucky and will be able to have the clearance.

(This is on my Bianchi Sprint 76 that I cold-set to 130mm (using Sheldon Brown's "2x4 + a chair" method) and I'm running Campy Khamsin wheels w/a 9-speed cassette.)

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Old 01-20-16, 12:04 PM
  #5208  
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I've done this before, it works. Jeunet required it on the front wheel to have clearance for the Suntour GPX hubs that were on there- the original hubs are amazingly low-profile. Makes getting the wheel in a bit harder as you have a loose washer in there and the axle spacing is a bit wider than before.

A more refined way is to re-space the axle. Cassette hubs are basically the same process as freewheel, although you don't always have to remove the cassette. Just remember to remove however much spacer from the NDS as you add to the DS. And then re-dish the wheel of course.
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Old 01-20-16, 12:13 PM
  #5209  
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Other than Campy and Velo Orange, what Shimano friendly cranksets are folks using? I look at the 105, etc. and the spider looks so thick and "heavy" or bulky. The Campy ones look better, aesthetically, but I've got Shimano stuff.

Suggestions appreciated.
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Old 01-20-16, 12:14 PM
  #5210  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Other than Campy and Velo Orange, what Shimano friendly cranksets are folks using? I look at the 105, etc. and the spider looks so thick and "heavy" or bulky. The Campy ones look better, aesthetically, but I've got Shimano stuff.

Suggestions appreciated.
How old/what speed range, VV? And does BB matter?
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Old 01-20-16, 12:19 PM
  #5211  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Other than Campy and Velo Orange, what Shimano friendly cranksets are folks using? I look at the 105, etc. and the spider looks so thick and "heavy" or bulky. The Campy ones look better, aesthetically, but I've got Shimano stuff.

Suggestions appreciated.
If you want standard (130mm BCD) than almost any vintage square-taper Shimano is good and cheap. Compact? I dunno...I put a Tiagra on my wife's 80's Marinoni and while it's not "correct" it's shiny silver so it looks updated without being out of place. And it's Hollowtech II, which, while also not "correct" is my favourite crank interface.
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Old 01-20-16, 12:36 PM
  #5212  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Other than Campy and Velo Orange, what Shimano friendly cranksets are folks using? I look at the 105, etc. and the spider looks so thick and "heavy" or bulky. The Campy ones look better, aesthetically, but I've got Shimano stuff.
Comes in standard and Compact varieties.
Suggestions appreciated.
I've got an Ultegra 6500 on one build. It's 9/10 speed compatible, and if you strip the printing on it, it looks pretty retro still.
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Old 01-20-16, 01:00 PM
  #5213  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
How old/what speed range, VV? And does BB matter?
Still up in the air. I took off the Shimano Tiagra 10 speed "brifters" off my Straggler, along with the Tiagra rear derailleur. Have wheels with capability for either 9-10 speed cassette. Don't have a specific bike yet, although the Univega Gran Rally might be the one (it just looks so darned good as an all original 5 speed). Don't have a bb yet or a front derailleur. I own a pristine VO Grand Cru Mk II doublt (30-46), so was going to buy a bb for it if I decide to use it. Would use a Shiman CX70 fd simply because that's what's on the Straggler and I know it will work with the shifters and with the VO crankset.

What I'm actively looking for is a 50cm or so Centurion. There's a 21" locally, 1989 Le Mans purple smoke fade which has been butchered into a ss. Anyway, I just think the big black modern chainrings are a little bulky looking. Just trying to get options.
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Old 01-20-16, 01:12 PM
  #5214  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Other than Campy and Velo Orange, what Shimano friendly cranksets are folks using? I look at the 105, etc. and the spider looks so thick and "heavy" or bulky. The Campy ones look better, aesthetically, but I've got Shimano stuff.

Suggestions appreciated.
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Old 01-20-16, 01:42 PM
  #5215  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Still up in the air. I took off the Shimano Tiagra 10 speed "brifters" off my Straggler, along with the Tiagra rear derailleur. Have wheels with capability for either 9-10 speed cassette. Don't have a specific bike yet, although the Univega Gran Rally might be the one (it just looks so darned good as an all original 5 speed). Don't have a bb yet or a front derailleur. I own a pristine VO Grand Cru Mk II doublt (30-46), so was going to buy a bb for it if I decide to use it. Would use a Shiman CX70 fd simply because that's what's on the Straggler and I know it will work with the shifters and with the VO crankset.

What I'm actively looking for is a 50cm or so Centurion. There's a 21" locally, 1989 Le Mans purple smoke fade which has been butchered into a ss. Anyway, I just think the big black modern chainrings are a little bulky looking. Just trying to get options.
I have an Arabesque, a 7400 and a 7700 all on old frames with 9 or 10 speed STIs. I have the early 9/10 speed 53/39 rings on all (before they started getting that thicker, webbed look). The flats on the spider of all Shimano cranks are all the same thickness, the spacing for the number of cogs comes from the rings (the small ring is offset). The earlier square taper cranks take a little longer BB, whatever spec is for the crank.
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Old 01-20-16, 02:13 PM
  #5216  
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Originally Posted by peugeot mongrel
I have an Arabesque, a 7400 and a 7700 all on old frames with 9 or 10 speed STIs. I have the early 9/10 speed 53/39 rings on all (before they started getting that thicker, webbed look). The flats on the spider of all Shimano cranks are all the same thickness, the spacing for the number of cogs comes from the rings (the small ring is offset). The earlier square taper cranks take a little longer BB, whatever spec is for the crank.
huh, it never occured to me to used modern rings with a vintage crank (and since I love triples, probably modern spacers, too). Good idea.
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Old 01-20-16, 07:12 PM
  #5217  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Still up in the air. I took off the Shimano Tiagra 10 speed "brifters" off my Straggler, along with the Tiagra rear derailleur. Have wheels with capability for either 9-10 speed cassette. Don't have a specific bike yet, although the Univega Gran Rally might be the one (it just looks so darned good as an all original 5 speed). Don't have a bb yet or a front derailleur. I own a pristine VO Grand Cru Mk II doublt (30-46), so was going to buy a bb for it if I decide to use it. Would use a Shiman CX70 fd simply because that's what's on the Straggler and I know it will work with the shifters and with the VO crankset.

What I'm actively looking for is a 50cm or so Centurion. There's a 21" locally, 1989 Le Mans purple smoke fade which has been butchered into a ss. Anyway, I just think the big black modern chainrings are a little bulky looking. Just trying to get options.
I can see if this one is still available. It might be a Terry. I will be in that general area in a day or two. PM me if you are interested in it.

Centurion ironman racing bike

[h=2]Centurion ironman racing bike - $100 (Norfolk)[/h]


condition: good




Centurion racing bike for sale great condition!
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Old 01-20-16, 08:47 PM
  #5218  
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
What I'm actively looking for is a 50cm or so Centurion. (a sign of intelligence, of course)

There's a 21" locally, 1989 Le Mans purple smoke fade which has been butchered into a ss. Anyway, I just think the big black modern chainrings are a little bulky looking. Just trying to get options.
You know we can find you one, maybe even in the NW.

I'd also say +1 to Falcon3, the 6500 crankset looks great on vintage bikes. Octalink BB's are plentiful.
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Old 01-20-16, 09:13 PM
  #5219  
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@seypat - thanks so much for the offer, but I will pass on that one.
@RobbieTunes - It's not that they're not around, but either the wrong size or the wrong price.
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Old 01-20-16, 11:20 PM
  #5220  
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Haven't used it but the holdsworth retro crank looks pretty nice.

Holdsworth Retro Crankset | Planet X
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Old 01-21-16, 01:22 AM
  #5221  
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sorry for the hazy pic, grease on my phone lens or something.

but here is the run-down on this one that just knocked my socks off today after the first ride. its a modification to an earlier build but..

88 Centurion ironman "expert" frame
6500 brakes/brifters/FD
7400 crankset
XTR RD
116 link KHS chain
11-34t 9speed SRAM cassette (cant see in the pic, but the interior is red and matches the frame.. sweet)

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Old 01-21-16, 10:53 AM
  #5222  
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Originally Posted by jetboy
sorry for the hazy pic, grease on my phone lens or something.

but here is the run-down on this one that just knocked my socks off today after the first ride. its a modification to an earlier build but..

88 Centurion ironman "expert" frame
6500 brakes/brifters/FD
7400 crankset
XTR RD
116 link KHS chain
11-34t 9speed SRAM cassette (cant see in the pic, but the interior is red and matches the frame.. sweet)

Too much reflected light. Take that same picture in the early evening or cloudy (today) day.
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Old 01-21-16, 11:16 AM
  #5223  
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Parts Bin Kabuki Super Speed

I counted parts from at least 9 different bikes, not including a few parts that were new, so had never been on a bike before. The only things left from the original Kabuki frame are the fork and headset, downtube cable stop, and seat post. I used Testors Gloss Sunburst to touch up the many scrapes on the frame. I had a triple crank, but the brifter is a double, so I adjusted it to the outer two (50&40) rings. NW Ohio is flat, but if I need lower gears, I can readjust to shift the inner (30&40) rings. There is a lot of clearance, so I could put bigger tires on and use it as a gravel bike. It weighs 26 lbs. using the bathroom scale, vs. 30+ as original. Some of the parts were acquired at garage sales, some are take-offs from other bikes, and a couple came from BOC II.

Parts list:
Shimano 105 8 speed brifters, $5 antiques mall score
Shimano Rapid Rise rear derailleur, on clearance a Nashbar a few years ago
Shimano crappy front derailleur, scavenged off a cheap MTB
SRAM 11-30 8 speed cassette, Nashbar clearance sale
Alex DA16 wheels, $20 garage sale score
Bianchi stem, BOC II. There was no bolt, so I adapted a seatpost binder to fit.
Modelo bars, used at LBS
Vitoria Zafrio tires, bought for another bike
Shimano cranks came from another bike when I switched to a Biopace crank
Crank spindle from BOC II. It formerly had cottered cranks.
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Old 01-21-16, 11:28 AM
  #5224  
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I bet you get going downhill real fast in that 52-11 combo @jetboy. What is that, like 125 gear inches?! Nice build.
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Old 01-21-16, 12:34 PM
  #5225  
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its sunny today in the bay area! but here it is in the sun: a bit clearer-

and yes, 53 -11 is ridiculous and basically unusable by me unless I am already going downhill... though I got pretty close on the flats in oakland when I opened it up to see how it would go- for all of like 10 seconds before I faded. I am still pretty weak and trying to train up.

i made it for the santa cruz mountain ride we have coming up. hopefully will be able to handle it all. and yes, the seat was too loose and got pushed to the back. got to tighten that.

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