Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#5352
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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I just saw someone post about these "smart" rollers on a FB racing page. The InsideRide rollers. Anyone tried them? I have the Elite Arion Digital Smart B+ rollers, which have proved to be THE most frustrating piece of training gear I have ever owned -- in light of power map calibration issues, countless emails with support, hours of reading forums and posts from other users experiencing problems, etc.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
#5353
Elitist
Thread Starter
I just saw someone post about these "smart" rollers on a FB racing page. The InsideRide rollers. Anyone tried them? I have the Elite Arion Digital Smart B+ rollers, which have proved to be THE most frustrating piece of training gear I have ever owned -- in light of power map calibration issues, countless emails with support, hours of reading forums and posts from other users experiencing problems, etc.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
Think about what you want out of a set of rollers vs a mag/fluid trainer vs a spin bike.
For trackies, rollers have generally been reserved for:
- Cleaning up one's pedal stroke.
- Low resistance warm up or cool down.
The inside ride smart rollers do the opposite of those. They clean up one's pedal stroke by allowing the bike to lurch back and forth and the resistance undermines the "low resistance warm-up or cool-down."
Not to mention the added potential technical issues with such equipment.
For off-season indoor work on the track bike, I still think that a set of 4.5 inch barrel Kreitlers and a quality mag (not fluid) trainer is best. With a mag trainer, you can bury yourself in an effort and just slow down or simply stop without having to worry about balancing on the rollers.
Mag over fluid because fluid trainers are designed to have the user vary the resistance using road bike gears. One obviously cannot do that with a track bike. That's why mag is best using a handlebar mounted lever to manage resistance.
#5354
I just saw someone post about these "smart" rollers on a FB racing page. The InsideRide rollers. Anyone tried them? I have the Elite Arion Digital Smart B+ rollers, which have proved to be THE most frustrating piece of training gear I have ever owned -- in light of power map calibration issues, countless emails with support, hours of reading forums and posts from other users experiencing problems, etc.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
E-Motion Rollers (Smart Rollers or traditional resistance) ? Inside Ride
One feature I see that I like is that they connect to your bike power meter to maintain calibration.
Of course, not a pure track training tool - good for some intervals, 1min efforts, leg speed/balance work, etc - but "real-feeling" seated accelerations of semi stand-starting are not possible - for these, I have a custom-reinforced RoadMachine KurtKinect.
Last edited by Clythio; 11-26-18 at 09:43 PM.
#5355
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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I use the fly wheel and the killer head wind resistance unit on the 4.5". I can pretty much match the rolling resistance on a velodrome with the added resistance, or just remove the belts from those two things and spin away at low resistance.
BUT, outside of the gym and interval training, when I'm just getting some endurance time in on my bike in the winter, 1) I like to do it on rollers because it is more interesting, and 2) I actually enjoy using Rouvy or BKOOL and other apps to do virtual routes with video on my track bike, which is where decent smart rollers would come in handy....I'm NOT doing mountain routes though. :-) I'm not a sadomasochist
#5356
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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Using the eMotion InsideRide 2nd Gen since 2013 and still in love with them - capable of safe, comfortable, road-feeling sessions up to 2hs - but mine is "traditional manual mag resistance adjust", not this smart-auto system now offered as an option.
Of course, not a pure track training tool - good for some intervals, 1min efforts, leg speed/balance work, etc - but "real-feeling" seated accelerations of semi stand-starting are not possible - for these, I have a custom-reinforced RoadMachine KurtKinect.
Of course, not a pure track training tool - good for some intervals, 1min efforts, leg speed/balance work, etc - but "real-feeling" seated accelerations of semi stand-starting are not possible - for these, I have a custom-reinforced RoadMachine KurtKinect.
I'm still fantasizing over the reality of a wheel-off/drive train smart trainer for track bikes, basically a Wahoo Kickr for real drop outs and a 120mm axle. I'd pay $1200 for that in a second.
#5357
I have the basic Inside Rides. They are fine for riding the road bike or intervals. I can do out of the saddle stuff on them as well, though not standing starts. I don't ride them as much right now because I've been riding at 5 am, and I just don't feel like concentrating on my balance that early. The trainer is much simpler to deal with that early.
The $1200 version is comparable to a Wahoo Kickr, so the price isn't obscene.
The $1200 version is comparable to a Wahoo Kickr, so the price isn't obscene.
#5358
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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I have the basic Inside Rides. They are fine for riding the road bike or intervals. I can do out of the saddle stuff on them as well, though not standing starts. I don't ride them as much right now because I've been riding at 5 am, and I just don't feel like concentrating on my balance that early. The trainer is much simpler to deal with that early.
The $1200 version is comparable to a Wahoo Kickr, so the price isn't obscene.
The $1200 version is comparable to a Wahoo Kickr, so the price isn't obscene.
#5359
I'd also love to have an direct drive setup that would allow for adjusting the resistance (no switching cogs) but really... a good used computrainer can handle standing starts (if you're really wild you may need to build a bit more stable platform for it) up to some very, very high wattage. For ~$200-400 it's hard not to just throw a trainer tyre on a cheap wheel and go to town.
#5360
My old Garmin sensor has broken and it now seems to be discontinued.
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
#5361
Junior Member
Cateye ISC-11 is on sale for $30 on the Cateye US website...
My old Garmin sensor has broken and it now seems to be discontinued.
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
#5362
Senior Member
My old Garmin sensor has broken and it now seems to be discontinued.
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
Are there any magnet based ant+ speed sensors on the market now? Everything ive seen has been the newer magnet free versions or using bluetooth rather than ant+ . Unfortunately neither option can work for me - garmin 520 and when im using a disc and 5spoke (unless someone knows a way to make this set up work?)
#5364
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
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When you train on a non-roller trainer, do you use your road bike or track bike? I am curious how many track cyclists train exclusively on track bikes indoors, vs. switching back and forth between track and road. Currently, and this is prone to change, I do all my seated interval and high cadence work on my track bike and the Kreitler rollers with the fly wheel and resistance fan. If at all possible, I just prefer to train on the type of bike that I race on. It's a personal preference, that I could probably ween myself off of. :-) These two gadgets can generate up to 1500w, but of course at that resistance, I have to pedal at 50rpm to warmup and or stay on Z2! Not ideal and requires getting off the bike and changing the resistance on the fan. Also, for any Z1-3 work, I use my track bike on the rollers if it's 60m or less. This works great during the week, but on the weekend, 90-120 min on the rollers on a track bike is not fun, so I switch to my Wahoo Kickr and road bike.
#5365
Junior Member
Its just a speed/cadence sensor - the OP said he already had a Garmin 520....
To answer the rest of the original question, you can get a small magnet-less sensor that will just fit wrapped around the side of the hub of a disc or 5-spoke, (search amazon for "CYCPLUS Bike Speed Sensor") but in my experience the data is crap.
#5366
Elitist
Thread Starter
Yes, you are right.
Also, Bontrager makes independent speed and cadence sensors.
EDIT:
I've deleted my bad advice above.
#5367
Thanks for the recommendations.
I have a friend 3d printing me a valve hole cover (like the raceware ones but with space for a couple of magnets) so hoping that will cover most of my gear changes. Will post a photo and the details if it works as intended.
I have a friend 3d printing me a valve hole cover (like the raceware ones but with space for a couple of magnets) so hoping that will cover most of my gear changes. Will post a photo and the details if it works as intended.
#5368
That Raceware cover is neat, but I'm not sure I want to deal with the hassle of unscrewing it every time I need to inflate my tire.
Is anyone using it? What are your thoughts?
Is anyone using it? What are your thoughts?
#5369
Senior Member
The Wahoo Blue SC? It's dual ant+/bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/Wahoo-Cycling.../dp/B00NW882KM
Also you might try ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...sc+10&_sacat=0
https://www.amazon.com/Wahoo-Cycling.../dp/B00NW882KM
Also you might try ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...sc+10&_sacat=0
#5370
Elitist
Thread Starter
This is great because the brake track is the same on all wheels and you never use brakes on the track. If you flip the wheels around, the other magnet is in place.
I've done this for years with great success.
#5371
Elitist
Thread Starter
Here are two examples from my bikes:
Note the Bontrager ANT+ sensor on the fork. You can barely see the magnet in front.
The Zipp 808 front isn't a directional wheel, so I put a magnet on both sides. The sensor is on the left fork arm. This is the right side. So, if I happen to put the wheel on in the opposite direction, there will be a magnet in place.
Note the Bontrager ANT+ sensor on the fork. You can barely see the magnet in front.
The Zipp 808 front isn't a directional wheel, so I put a magnet on both sides. The sensor is on the left fork arm. This is the right side. So, if I happen to put the wheel on in the opposite direction, there will be a magnet in place.
#5372
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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I suggest that you put the speed sensor on your fork and double-side tape small, powerful magnets to the brake track of all of your front wheels, left and right sides.
This is great because the brake track is the same on all wheels and you never use brakes on the track. If you flip the wheels around, the other magnet is in place.
I've done this for years with great success.
This is great because the brake track is the same on all wheels and you never use brakes on the track. If you flip the wheels around, the other magnet is in place.
I've done this for years with great success.
#5373
Elitist
Thread Starter
I tried the front fork Bontrager speed sensor approach for a while, but it ended up being more of a hassle for me and seemed very precarious and unstable. The main issue I encountered was that the mount would move inward, due to many reasons (e.g., hitting it while racking the bike) and knock the magnet off the wheel (knock!)...then you have the issue of magnets on the track. This happened several times, so I just went with the Wahoo speed sensor and mounted it on my front wheel axle, because I tend not to change my front wheel in a night. The reason why I went with the fork system to begin with was because I was using a tri-spoke, which is not the case anymore. If I return to a tri-spoke, I suppose I will have to re-think things. I still like the idea of a sensor that mounts in the valve hole.
I used 3M Outdoor Double-Sided tape. It's about 2mm thick and stiffly gooey like old chewing gum. Willfully removing the magnets takes a lot of effort. I've never had one accidentally pop off, even when the sensor touches it from being too close (click-click-click-click-click-click-click) before I adjust the sensor.
Regarding the sensor moving around:
Yeah, that's the only downside to this method. One does have to be mindful when installing and removing wheels.
#5374
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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Regarding the magnets falling off:
I used 3M Outdoor Double-Sided tape. It's about 2mm thick and stiffly gooey like old chewing gum. Willfully removing the magnets takes a lot of effort. I've never had one accidentally pop off, even when the sensor touches it from being too close (click-click-click-click-click-click-click) before I adjust the sensor.
Regarding the sensor moving around:
Yeah, that's the only downside to this method. One does have to be mindful when installing and removing wheels.
I used 3M Outdoor Double-Sided tape. It's about 2mm thick and stiffly gooey like old chewing gum. Willfully removing the magnets takes a lot of effort. I've never had one accidentally pop off, even when the sensor touches it from being too close (click-click-click-click-click-click-click) before I adjust the sensor.
Regarding the sensor moving around:
Yeah, that's the only downside to this method. One does have to be mindful when installing and removing wheels.
#5375
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 231
Bikes: S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2, KTM Strada 4000, Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 (TT), Fuji Track Elite, BMC Trackmachine TR02
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I train exclusively on my track bike. I have rollers and a cycleops magnus smart trainer that has 3 different settings for different drop out settings. To train standing starts, I go outside on a pretty barren strip of road and run a front brake (weather permitting obviously.) I program my own workouts into trainer road and let that take care of the resistance on the trainer. I pretty much only use rollers for recovery days and some high cadence work. Since i got the smart trainer my road bike just collects dust.
I was looking at the Magnus and it appears to be sold out on their site, but they have a newer M2 Smart Trainer, which looks to be the replacement of the Magnus? Same price. I like that they say right in the specs that they are compatible with 120mm.
https://www.cycleops.com/product/m2