What have you been wrenching on lately?
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yea, this frame of mine neither has a cabelstop on the seattube nor a pulley on the seatlug pinch bolt. I would like to jerry-righ some form of brake bridge where it's usually mounted on a mixtie. Any ideas?
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#5854
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I've been going over this groupset this weekend. Just cleaning it up then basic servicing and such to get it working to it's full potential. Soaked the STI Shifters in PB Blaster, let them "drain" then relubed with Triflow. Also broke the brakes down a bit and sorted them out. RD jockey cage taken apart for a clean as well as the jockey wheels themselves. BB worked over too with a light coat of oil on the bearings just to keep them nice in storage. If I was using this I'd ditch the caged bearings and go with loose. Basically I just wanted it all sorted out and ready to go. Going offer it up for local sale for a few bucks. Rider quality only but a few extra bucks will help fund other projects. Did the same basic thing with the dang near mint Exage groupset off the Technium.
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I've been going over this groupset this weekend. Just cleaning it up then basic servicing and such to get it working to it's full potential. Soaked the STI Shifters in PB Blaster, let them "drain" then relubed with Triflow. Also broke the brakes down a bit and sorted them out. RD jockey cage taken apart for a clean as well as the jockey wheels themselves. BB worked over too with a light coat of oil on the bearings just to keep them nice in storage. If I was using this I'd ditch the caged bearings and go with loose. Basically I just wanted it all sorted out and ready to go. Going offer it up for local sale for a few bucks. Rider quality only but a few extra bucks will help fund other projects. Did the same basic thing with the dang near mint Exage groupset off the Technium.
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In the meantime here is an AD readied for ride. Shimano 600, 105 mix with a long cage 200gs Tange headset and Specialized bb.
This was a bare frame purchase with the mindset of clearing out the cluster off parts from the garage.
The upcoming Pinarello was bought with the same goal.
This was a bare frame purchase with the mindset of clearing out the cluster off parts from the garage.
The upcoming Pinarello was bought with the same goal.
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I've been going over this groupset this weekend. Just cleaning it up then basic servicing and such to get it working to it's full potential. Soaked the STI Shifters in PB Blaster, let them "drain" then relubed with Triflow. Also broke the brakes down a bit and sorted them out. RD jockey cage taken apart for a clean as well as the jockey wheels themselves. BB worked over too with a light coat of oil on the bearings just to keep them nice in storage. If I was using this I'd ditch the caged bearings and go with loose. Basically I just wanted it all sorted out and ready to go. Going offer it up for local sale for a few bucks. Rider quality only but a few extra bucks will help fund other projects. Did the same basic thing with the dang near mint Exage groupset off the Technium.
#5859
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Cleaned up my latest acquisition:
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It isn't much. But since I was dealing with the church folk's Chinese hunks o' crap, I haven't been working on my own things. Now that I'm delivering their bikes to them (hopefully) tomorrow evening, I fit up this headset on my '54 Western Flyer three speed. The front fork was badly bent, the steerer tube needed a massage and the threads were wack. I didn't want to invest in a new headset until I knew the fork could be saved. But just fitting everything up tonight I think the fork is saved. I could probably salvage the headset, but the wrench marks bother me quite a bit.
I eat my elephants one piece at a time. As the headset digests, I'll look for EA3 tires, then paint, then some John Bulls, then...
I eat my elephants one piece at a time. As the headset digests, I'll look for EA3 tires, then paint, then some John Bulls, then...
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It isn't much. But since I was dealing with the church folk's Chinese hunks o' crap, I haven't been working on my own things. Now that I'm delivering their bikes to them (hopefully) tomorrow evening, I fit up this headset on my '54 Western Flyer three speed. The front fork was badly bent, the steerer tube needed a massage and the threads were wack. I didn't want to invest in a new headset until I knew the fork could be saved. But just fitting everything up tonight I think the fork is saved. I could probably salvage the headset, but the wrench marks bother me quite a bit.
I eat my elephants one piece at a time. As the headset digests, I'll look for EA3 tires, then paint, then some John Bulls, then...
I eat my elephants one piece at a time. As the headset digests, I'll look for EA3 tires, then paint, then some John Bulls, then...
#5863
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I considered putting it back together with good bearings in everything that turns. But I really want to put more money in it than it will ever be worth like I do all my projects.
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"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
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I've been a) enjoying the bar end shifters on my Crescent and thinking about trying a set on my Fuji TSIII and b) thinking about changing the RD on the Crescent from a Cyclone short cage to a long cage so I can run a larger big cog. I recently obtained the key bits and am in process of cleaning and lubing. Nice winter work.
I wash everything off real well in OMS, dry, repair if needed then reassemble. Its no longer amazing what poor shape components can be in after 50 years. What amazes me is folks who do not conduct a complete overhaul but just limp along with a wash of WD-40 or something. The dried original lubricant becomes a hard paste/adhesive and must, often, be scraped out to free up the movements. And there can be unseen damage: one shifter had a mangled 0.010mil shim. I'll attempt to fab a replacement. The black muck on the jockey wheels was hard like coal and needed a brass brush to remove.
I wash everything off real well in OMS, dry, repair if needed then reassemble. Its no longer amazing what poor shape components can be in after 50 years. What amazes me is folks who do not conduct a complete overhaul but just limp along with a wash of WD-40 or something. The dried original lubricant becomes a hard paste/adhesive and must, often, be scraped out to free up the movements. And there can be unseen damage: one shifter had a mangled 0.010mil shim. I'll attempt to fab a replacement. The black muck on the jockey wheels was hard like coal and needed a brass brush to remove.
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Just clearing my drawers out for the Pinarello
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I've been a) enjoying the bar end shifters on my Crescent and thinking about trying a set on my Fuji TSIII and b) thinking about changing the RD on the Crescent from a Cyclone short cage to a long cage so I can run a larger big cog. I recently obtained the key bits and am in process of cleaning and lubing. Nice winter work.
I wash everything off real well in OMS, dry, repair if needed then reassemble. Its no longer amazing what poor shape components can be in after 50 years. What amazes me is folks who do not conduct a complete overhaul but just limp along with a wash of WD-40 or something. The dried original lubricant becomes a hard paste/adhesive and must, often, be scraped out to free up the movements. And there can be unseen damage: one shifter had a mangled 0.010mil shim. I'll attempt to fab a replacement. The black muck on the jockey wheels was hard like coal and needed a brass brush to remove.
I wash everything off real well in OMS, dry, repair if needed then reassemble. Its no longer amazing what poor shape components can be in after 50 years. What amazes me is folks who do not conduct a complete overhaul but just limp along with a wash of WD-40 or something. The dried original lubricant becomes a hard paste/adhesive and must, often, be scraped out to free up the movements. And there can be unseen damage: one shifter had a mangled 0.010mil shim. I'll attempt to fab a replacement. The black muck on the jockey wheels was hard like coal and needed a brass brush to remove.
I have a Cyclone very similar to yours (short cage though). Cable anchor bolt in mine seems to be a bit rubbish, but that's a relatively doable fix (by manufacturing a replacement). I have a bigger problem with the aluminium casing the tension coil spring sits in. There's a fair amount of play (0.5mm) with everything seemingly tightened as much as possible. Any ideas for a possible fix?
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Here is one pictured, the cable comes up to an adjuster then over and back down to the straddle
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I have a Cyclone very similar to yours (short cage though). Cable anchor bolt in mine seems to be a bit rubbish, but that's a relatively doable fix (by manufacturing a replacement). I have a bigger problem with the aluminium casing the tension coil spring sits in. There's a fair amount of play (0.5mm) with everything seemingly tightened as much as possible. Any ideas for a possible fix?
IIRC Shimano converted a “defect” to a “feature” on their recent RDs. The guide pulleys have play built in to improve indexed shifting performance (Syncron or something?). I’ve had pretty worn (pulley wobbled on its bushing) pulleys that shift just fine. But then I shift a bike like it’s an old wood sided three-on-the-column standard wagon: double clutch, ease into the next gear and slowly let out the clutch. Septuagenarian speed.
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This could have been a saved from the dump post . Well it didn't go that far , but I did rescue it from a back yard . It was a pile of rusty parts .This little guy is called a Benchmaster , It is a bench top mill , it is pretty rare at least in my parts , I have been looking for over 12 years . I think the Co. quit making these in the fifty's . I still have a ways to go with it . Like a stuck seat post , the cutter holder is stuck in the spindle . Yes , I have used Kroil . Next I will be heating things up .
IMG_1096 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_1078 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_1096 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_1078 by mark westi, on Flickr
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I’ve not noticed a problem on the two other Cyclones I have (one short cage, one GT long cage like the one I’m cleaning now). I recommend starting a separate thread as this is a good question. Only two bearing surfaces on that “casing”, shaft cap on one end and shaft journal on the other. I don’t know what play NOS units have. Also keep in mind the cage design differences: these GT long cage models have the guide pulley right on the end of that shaft so 0.5mm may not matter. The short cage models have the guide pulley out “ahead” of that shaft so play would be telegraphed to a greater amount that maybe does matter. Does the play you’ve seen effect RD performance?
IIRC Shimano converted a “defect” to a “feature” on their recent RDs. The guide pulleys have play built in to improve indexed shifting performance (Syncron or something?). I’ve had pretty worn (pulley wobbled on its bushing) pulleys that shift just fine. But then I shift a bike like it’s an old wood sided three-on-the-column standard wagon: double clutch, ease into the next gear and slowly let out the clutch. Septuagenarian speed.
IIRC Shimano converted a “defect” to a “feature” on their recent RDs. The guide pulleys have play built in to improve indexed shifting performance (Syncron or something?). I’ve had pretty worn (pulley wobbled on its bushing) pulleys that shift just fine. But then I shift a bike like it’s an old wood sided three-on-the-column standard wagon: double clutch, ease into the next gear and slowly let out the clutch. Septuagenarian speed.
I'm not even really sure what I will do with the Cyclones yet. Sourcing Suntour 70's components in the UK is generally not easy, even if you want to throw money at the vintage component sellers. In the past few months I've seen maybe one Cyclone FD for sale in the UK, a few more in Europe and all others are in the US. But even if I end up with a set, I'm already completing Superbe components which I'm planning to use on a build, then I have a nearly complete 6400 group to use for something and my commuting bike is fine with 600EX SIS.
Anyhow, yes Shimano Centeron pulley has some play by design. Overall I suppose that actually the ramps on rear casette / freewheel cogs and indexing shifters probably play a greater role in smooth shifting than floating pulley. But I actually find Suntour Power Shifters quite usable now that I'm riding with friction shifters more. Sure, it's not as quick as indexed shifting, but perfectly alright. My previous experience was with fairly worn out shifters which were very fiddly and never stayed in the correct position for long, but the ratchet ones are pretty darn good.
#5873
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If you're not into repainting anything, I'd follow the trail of adapter plates for rear panier racks. Some of them seem to come with plates you put on the stays and then mount the rack to that.
I would probably make that plate myself though, to make sure it's made of some fairly thick, solid steel. Two plates, both with concave grooves at the end (so you'd need some good vice and some rod of correct thickness to hammer the sheet metal around), then drill some holes for bolts to hold botk plates together and of course the hole for the brake bolt in the centre. You put some Tesa tape on the stays to protect the paint a bit (or bits of old inner tube, or strips of vinyl or whatever you'd like to use), mount the plates and mount the caliper. You will need some spacer (probably around 8-10mm) to keep the caliper away from that plate. Yes, it is a bit of work, but I think having less complicated cable routing does matter when it comes to braking.
You might also be able to find a ready made suitable adapter plate, I'm pretty sure rack manufacturers already faced similar problem and found an acceptable solution.
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1993 Trek 750
I picked up this 1993 Trek 750 late last year. I'll rebuild it over the summer to do a bunch of trail riding I have planned out including a trip to Minnesota. I've wanted one of the top end lugged Trek hybrids for a while. This one showed up locally. It was clean and reasonably priced at $125. The PO put on drops but fortunately kept the thumbshifters. My plans are to run trekking bars and install fatter tires (700 x 38c). I'm fairly certain I'll need to swap out the cantilevers and install a new chain. I reckon the rest of the bike will be just fine after I overhaul it.
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My friend gave me a few bikes to sell for him a few months back. I FINALLY wrapped this one up today. There were lots of little stumbles along the way, mostly waiting on parts. A bit small for me, but definitely a nice ride. The bottle cage seems more appropriate for a Nalgene or something similar, but the color match was so good with the decal that I couldn't not throw it on. The wheels have anodized nipples that also match, a nice little find. Should be a solid commuter for someone come spring. The frame is a Smoke Chrome finish that doesn't totally come across in these photos.
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