curbtender

If someone has been in there already there is a good chance the caged bearings were installed upside down.

rccardr 

Yes, unless someone has been diddling with the crown race (rare, but it happens) that should work perfectly.

rccardr 

Well, there’s that.

VintageSteelEU

These came with a set of damaged Mafac brake levers I got a few years back. The levers were shot and of no use, but I kept the clamps. If I remember correctly, they were using standard washers and hex nuts (I'm sure I have something that matches). I de-rusted them back then and they are in usable condition. Anyhow, since I won't be using any Mafac brake levers anytime soon, I thought someone might need these more. If someone has a downtube clamp for Suntour Power Shifters (LD-1500) and would like to trade, do let me know. Alternatively, yours for the cost of shipping. Please remember I'm based in the UK.



Mafac brake lever clamps

Mafac brake lever clamps

Schweinhund

is the power shifter band clamp different from the friction shifter band clamp?

Mad Honk 

No, The first set of shifters have the correct band for the power shifters but are a bit different from the original in that the original did not have the cable stops. I think all three would suffice for a replacement though. HTH, Smiles, MH

VintageSteelEU

Suntour Power Shifters can't be used with just the usual downtube Campy standard shifter bosses or regular shifter clamps with such. The ratcheting mechanism won't engage, partly because the boss will be too short, partly because they require the boss to have a thick, round base to it. Have a look at this diagram. The cable guide doesn't do anything when it comes to the shifter mechanism. That round base firstly makes the boss good 2mm longer than usual and secondly I believe plays similar role to the thick inner washer found in regular friction shifters (which in normal friction shifters has a round hole and goes over the base of the downtube / shifter boss). So all depends on what that clamp looks under the shifter. It does look like the first on the left might have the correct construction whereas the other ones most likely don't.

Schweinhund

Thanks, just as well. I was on the fence about breaking up this set anyway.

oneclick 

Does your mechanic know that the handlebars turn?

And that when they do, the cup and cone rotate relative to each other?

And can he do simple maths - as the brinelled spots are about 16 degrees apart, and evenly spaced, you will get at most[1] 8 degrees of turn in either direction before the spots are again aligned.

[1] only if you get the cup and cone spots equidistant from each other when installing them in a frame with the fork pointed straight ahead.

oneclick 

What type of Power-Shifters do you have that does NOT have cable stops - every one of the Suntour ones in the bin here have them.

VintageSteelEU

The later ones, in the Sprint gruppo (mid-80's) don't have cable guides. And they don't need a clamp, work with standard braze-on shifter bosses. I think Dia-Compe makes a pretty faithful copy of them these days.
As for the earlier, 70's version, they don't really need the cable guides to work. So if someone misplaced those, the shifters most likely would still work just fine.

oneclick 

On Power-Shifters (all of 'em that I've seen, stem-mount, thumbies and bar-cons included) there are cable stops.

Yes there are other ratching-one-way-friction shifters, from Suntour and others, and some of them lack cable stops.

On Power-Shifters the cable stop is integral with the inner-most friction-plate; yes they'd work without them - if you hacksaw them off.

VintageSteelEU

Well, you had me doubting myself there for a moment, because I remembered cleaning some shifters with cable stops off, but could be Huret. So I dragged the Power Shifters and I can confirm the cable stops do, ideed, come off. They fit in there quite snuggly (at least on this copy), but removing them is not a problem. I've put the shifter lever back on without the cable stop and I can also confirm that it works as usual. Of course, you don't get the shifter lever movement limiter this way (because it's part of the cable stop), but if you wanted, say, get rid of a few grams of weight or took the cable stops for cleaning and misplaced them, it would still be possible to use the LD-1500.

danarello

@ JohnDThompson,
I did a quick search on Craig's List and called my LBS. No luck searching for a 1 inch (25.4mm) seatpost. I'll have to wait for a lucky opportunity.

curbtender

If you have a bike kitchen/co-OP near you, these were on all the older, cheap, bikes.

Schweinhund

Check BMX bikes, they are 25.4 or 27.2 mostly.

jdawginsc 

Ebay has tons of choices. And cheap.

Schweinhund

Check the assembly area at walmart, bet they have 5 dead bso's that take 25.4 seat posts.

Schweinhund

@JohnDThompson I have a couple of steel 25.4 seat posts, and possibly an aluminum one but no promises there.
Whatever actual shipping is.

JohnDThompson 

I have a whole box of them. That's where the DIY tool in my picture came from.

danarello

Did you make 2 cuts or 3 in your "Special Tool?"

ehcoplex 

....or just go to the hardware store and get a piece of 3/4" copper pipe and be done with it. The repurposed seat-post may be the 'preferred' DIY tool, and may last longer, but the copper will work just as well (and be easier to cut/bend). Copper is also softer, and so less likely to damage the cups as you bang them out (though damage from the seat-post tool is pretty unlikely, too).

JohnDThompson 

I did two cuts to create four "legs" on the tool I made.

Campagnerdo 

Copper (pipe) is expensive, and pretty soft. I'm sure it works fine, I use a length of 1" copper pipe as my crown race driver. For a cup remover, I use a length of electrical "EMT", 3/4". Its very inexpensive, and harder than copper. Still, I need to dress the tines on the end, every once in a while, to clean them up so they get a good "bite" on the cup.

oneclick 

So I just got this nice Torpado berceau and it has the wrong front brake on it.
The rear looks like this, I need a match: