What have you been wrenching on lately?
#6026
Cantilever believer
At Recycle Your Bicycle, we go through a lot of saddles every year. We want the bikes to look as close to new as practicable when given to the foster kid, and a ripped, torn, discolored, or otherwise excessively weathered saddle gets yanked & replaced. But replacement saddles are expensive, with even the basic "butt buster" ones costing over $10 each. We felt bad about tossing saddles with relatively intact padding but trashed covers, but there didn't seem to be too many good options.
After some research and inquiry, we were able to source some stretchy saddle covers in bulk at a reasonable price. So now in my spare time I'm popping/ripping the old covers off (so many staples...) and replacing with a new cover. We then tie the cover in place with a thin wire or reuse the saddle's bottom edging to keep it from pulling off in case of vacuum butt, corduroy adhesion, or other similar issue.
Example: a once-nicer but old and sun-damaged saddle. Before:
After:
Now, repeat many dozens of times, and hopefully we'll have some cushier tushies out there while saving some decent money.
After some research and inquiry, we were able to source some stretchy saddle covers in bulk at a reasonable price. So now in my spare time I'm popping/ripping the old covers off (so many staples...) and replacing with a new cover. We then tie the cover in place with a thin wire or reuse the saddle's bottom edging to keep it from pulling off in case of vacuum butt, corduroy adhesion, or other similar issue.
Example: a once-nicer but old and sun-damaged saddle. Before:
After:
Now, repeat many dozens of times, and hopefully we'll have some cushier tushies out there while saving some decent money.
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#6027
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,734
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
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#6028
Banned.
Best of luck with your polishing
DD
#6029
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
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As for the Kusuki handlebar, I'll definitely get there. I'm nearly done with other components - cleaning shifter levers now. When I finish, I'm going to find my pile of sandpaper, grab something less fine to go over the remaining anodising and work on that section. Then again 1k grit and then I think I will ggo for 2k and 3k before the final buffing.
#6030
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 28,013
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
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Not much bike related going on here, but spent some time tinkering with Morticia adding some semi useless accessories
And I unfortunately came to the conclusion I desperately need to clean out and reorganize my tool boxes. Maybe it's time to part with a few tolls I may never use again like a 40 and 36 headset wrenches, a C-Rec dust cap tool.....
And I unfortunately came to the conclusion I desperately need to clean out and reorganize my tool boxes. Maybe it's time to part with a few tolls I may never use again like a 40 and 36 headset wrenches, a C-Rec dust cap tool.....
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Likes For Bianchigirll:
#6031
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern NY...Brownville
Posts: 2,601
Bikes: Specialized Aethos, Specialized Diverge Comp E5
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Did a bit of an overhaul on a nice Spesh Awol last week...covered in dirty, greasy sandy ick...everything went in the dunk tank for a good soaking, scrubbed clean, lubed and reassembled left a bike running and looking like new.
Also got my first gravel bike. A very sweet Spesh Diverge Comp E5 in Tarmac Black. Practically no assembly needed and it went together nicely. I've never used Sram before but it is a nice system and I'm looking forward to a few gravel races/rides this year.
Can't ride it yet as we have a winter storm watch in the area. Very very windy, cold and snowy...ugh I dislike March...can't wait for April to get here and hope it's a warm month...here is northern ny on lake Ontario/Thousand Islands area.
Also got my first gravel bike. A very sweet Spesh Diverge Comp E5 in Tarmac Black. Practically no assembly needed and it went together nicely. I've never used Sram before but it is a nice system and I'm looking forward to a few gravel races/rides this year.
Can't ride it yet as we have a winter storm watch in the area. Very very windy, cold and snowy...ugh I dislike March...can't wait for April to get here and hope it's a warm month...here is northern ny on lake Ontario/Thousand Islands area.
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#6032
Cantilever believer
You are fully aware that the divesting of said tools will inevitably trigger a sequence of events where you will desperately need them again...
__________________
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
#6033
Old age cyclist
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 128
Bikes: Motobecane Grand Record, Motobecane Super Mirage (3x5 speeds), Motobecane Mirage, Atala (unknown model), Peugeot mixte frame Tourist and Schwinn Sport. A bunch more kids bikes. Most recently a Trek Verve One, tricked up for serious touring.
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Oh, so true! I have had this happen to me as well. It is the kiss of death...
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#6034
Full Member
"And I unfortunately came to the conclusion I desperately need to clean out and reorganize my tool boxes. Maybe it's time to part with a few tolls I may never use again like a 40 and 36 headset wrenches, a C-Rec dust cap tool....."
Bianchigirll, I am intrigued by the special tool in your toolbox picture that looks like a champagne cork with the wire and foil attached. Is this a special McGyver tool for Columbus tubing?
Mike
Bianchigirll, I am intrigued by the special tool in your toolbox picture that looks like a champagne cork with the wire and foil attached. Is this a special McGyver tool for Columbus tubing?
Mike
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#6036
Full Member
Got me a new bike from a recent yard sale, with the seat stuck. I was picturing all manners of worst nightmare, but despite my worst assumptions, soaking it with WD40 for 48 h and some rust remover as lubricant made the seat come right out.
Would've been a terrible shame if this beauty would be a waste, but I am the proud owner of a Puch Royal Force from the (what i assume) late 70ties/early 80ties with full first gen Dura Ace Black version groupset:
Hoods disintegrated and will be replaced, but that's a very minor issue
Would've been a terrible shame if this beauty would be a waste, but I am the proud owner of a Puch Royal Force from the (what i assume) late 70ties/early 80ties with full first gen Dura Ace Black version groupset:
Hoods disintegrated and will be replaced, but that's a very minor issue
Likes For Positron400:
#6037
Old age cyclist
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 128
Bikes: Motobecane Grand Record, Motobecane Super Mirage (3x5 speeds), Motobecane Mirage, Atala (unknown model), Peugeot mixte frame Tourist and Schwinn Sport. A bunch more kids bikes. Most recently a Trek Verve One, tricked up for serious touring.
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36 Posts
Don't know much about Puch but if nothing else that frame is a beauty!
#6038
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
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255 Posts
Got me a new bike from a recent yard sale, with the seat stuck. I was picturing all manners of worst nightmare, but despite my worst assumptions, soaking it with WD40 for 48 h and some rust remover as lubricant made the seat come right out.
Would've been a terrible shame if this beauty would be a waste, but I am the proud owner of a Puch Royal Force from the (what i assume) late 70ties/early 80ties with full first gen Dura Ace Black version groupset:
Hoods disintegrated and will be replaced, but that's a very minor issue
Would've been a terrible shame if this beauty would be a waste, but I am the proud owner of a Puch Royal Force from the (what i assume) late 70ties/early 80ties with full first gen Dura Ace Black version groupset:
Hoods disintegrated and will be replaced, but that's a very minor issue
I wonder whether Crane / Dura Ace is original to the bike.
#6039
Full Member
To the best of my knowledge, this frame came stock with Crane/DA which makes it kinda cool, and my first ever frame with such high end components. Size i think is a 57 which is right in my wheelhouse, since i usually ride a 58 with a shorter stem.
#6040
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Michigan USA
Posts: 936
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes.
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Yea, not much to do really on this one (apart from changing the tires, not sure if these tubulars still work.)
To the best of my knowledge, this frame came stock with Crane/DA which makes it kinda cool, and my first ever frame with such high end components. Size i think is a 57 which is right in my wheelhouse, since i usually ride a 58 with a shorter stem.
To the best of my knowledge, this frame came stock with Crane/DA which makes it kinda cool, and my first ever frame with such high end components. Size i think is a 57 which is right in my wheelhouse, since i usually ride a 58 with a shorter stem.
Here is a page with a bunch of old Austro Daimler and Puch history,
My Austro-Daimler "Vent Noir II" Bicycle And Brief History of Steyr Daimler Puch
#6041
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,056
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Likes: 0
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RC Moeur
Something to keep in mind if the saddle cover is mostly good but has a tear in it. I recntly used a large tire patch on one of the saddles at the Bike Exchange to cover the tear then put a slip on stretchy saddle cover over it. It worked great.
Something to keep in mind if the saddle cover is mostly good but has a tear in it. I recntly used a large tire patch on one of the saddles at the Bike Exchange to cover the tear then put a slip on stretchy saddle cover over it. It worked great.
Likes For capnjonny:
#6042
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,056
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Likes: 0
Liked 647 Times
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Today I started work on the 1958 Follis
.
When I found it in the back room of the Bike Exchange it was just a frame and fork. It had been repainted at some time and the paint, except for some nicks and scratches, was pretty good. I origionally intended to strip it to bare metal and repaint but I wasn't really looking forward to all the work having just finished a 1958 Lenton and a 1875 Pinarello.
When I first brought it home I had fitted it out with all the age appropriate hardware I wanted to use on it to make sure I had everything I needed so today I stripped it back down and catalogued all the shiny bits, to be polished later. I wiped down the frame with mineral spirits to remove any grease and used white polishing compound to deep clean the paint. The more I put my hands on it the more certain I was that I could save the existing paint. I got out my stash of half used Rustoleum rattle cans and using navy blue and white was able to mix a seemingly perfect color match to the existing paint. Tomorrow I will treat all the rust spots with naval jelly and a dremel tool to clean off the rust and do the touch ups. The bike is painted a solid blue which is a shame because the Steer tube has a beutiful raised logo on it. I will paint the back ground white to show off the Raised letters. A final coat of Rustoleum automotive clear and it should look like new.
Just as VeloCals was closing its shop I ordered a full decal set for it. A few days later I got an e mail saying they were refunding my money. When I called to find out why they told me they were giving me the decals Gratis. Good on you Velocals.
.
When I found it in the back room of the Bike Exchange it was just a frame and fork. It had been repainted at some time and the paint, except for some nicks and scratches, was pretty good. I origionally intended to strip it to bare metal and repaint but I wasn't really looking forward to all the work having just finished a 1958 Lenton and a 1875 Pinarello.
When I first brought it home I had fitted it out with all the age appropriate hardware I wanted to use on it to make sure I had everything I needed so today I stripped it back down and catalogued all the shiny bits, to be polished later. I wiped down the frame with mineral spirits to remove any grease and used white polishing compound to deep clean the paint. The more I put my hands on it the more certain I was that I could save the existing paint. I got out my stash of half used Rustoleum rattle cans and using navy blue and white was able to mix a seemingly perfect color match to the existing paint. Tomorrow I will treat all the rust spots with naval jelly and a dremel tool to clean off the rust and do the touch ups. The bike is painted a solid blue which is a shame because the Steer tube has a beutiful raised logo on it. I will paint the back ground white to show off the Raised letters. A final coat of Rustoleum automotive clear and it should look like new.
Just as VeloCals was closing its shop I ordered a full decal set for it. A few days later I got an e mail saying they were refunding my money. When I called to find out why they told me they were giving me the decals Gratis. Good on you Velocals.
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#6043
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 28,013
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Liked 3,098 Times
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1,580 Posts
oh for sure.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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#6045
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Liked 439 Times
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Today I started work on the 1958 Follis
.
When I found it in the back room of the Bike Exchange it was just a frame and fork. It had been repainted at some time and the paint, except for some nicks and scratches, was pretty good. I origionally intended to strip it to bare metal and repaint but I wasn't really looking forward to all the work having just finished a 1958 Lenton and a 1875 Pinarello.
When I first brought it home I had fitted it out with all the age appropriate hardware I wanted to use on it to make sure I had everything I needed so today I stripped it back down and catalogued all the shiny bits, to be polished later. I wiped down the frame with mineral spirits to remove any grease and used white polishing compound to deep clean the paint. The more I put my hands on it the more certain I was that I could save the existing paint. I got out my stash of half used Rustoleum rattle cans and using navy blue and white was able to mix a seemingly perfect color match to the existing paint. Tomorrow I will treat all the rust spots with naval jelly and a dremel tool to clean off the rust and do the touch ups. The bike is painted a solid blue which is a shame because the Steer tube has a beutiful raised logo on it. I will paint the back ground white to show off the Raised letters. A final coat of Rustoleum automotive clear and it should look like new.
Just as VeloCals was closing its shop I ordered a full decal set for it. A few days later I got an e mail saying they were refunding my money. When I called to find out why they told me they were giving me the decals Gratis. Good on you Velocals.
.
When I found it in the back room of the Bike Exchange it was just a frame and fork. It had been repainted at some time and the paint, except for some nicks and scratches, was pretty good. I origionally intended to strip it to bare metal and repaint but I wasn't really looking forward to all the work having just finished a 1958 Lenton and a 1875 Pinarello.
When I first brought it home I had fitted it out with all the age appropriate hardware I wanted to use on it to make sure I had everything I needed so today I stripped it back down and catalogued all the shiny bits, to be polished later. I wiped down the frame with mineral spirits to remove any grease and used white polishing compound to deep clean the paint. The more I put my hands on it the more certain I was that I could save the existing paint. I got out my stash of half used Rustoleum rattle cans and using navy blue and white was able to mix a seemingly perfect color match to the existing paint. Tomorrow I will treat all the rust spots with naval jelly and a dremel tool to clean off the rust and do the touch ups. The bike is painted a solid blue which is a shame because the Steer tube has a beutiful raised logo on it. I will paint the back ground white to show off the Raised letters. A final coat of Rustoleum automotive clear and it should look like new.
Just as VeloCals was closing its shop I ordered a full decal set for it. A few days later I got an e mail saying they were refunding my money. When I called to find out why they told me they were giving me the decals Gratis. Good on you Velocals.
Though navy blue looks alright and the frame looks great. I'm tempted to make a trip to Lyon sometime and start looking around for Follis frames I could work on
#6046
Senior Member
I tried doing a full "harlequin" bar wrap in 2019. It's one of those things that you do out of curiosity, just to see if you can do it. It wasn't great, but also not terrible.
I wasn't prepared for the difficulty of getting around the corners, so I didn't go too much past the curves.
Well, that was in 2019, and the tape has seen a lot of miles since then The orange was faded and the edges of the tape were starting to fray.
I decided to redo it, but with black and brown tape instead of black and orange. Mostly, it was to avoid having an orange tape that clashed with the burnt orange paint.
I also decided to try "squeezing" the tape together a bit to be able to manage the shorter distance on the inside of the curves.
It didn't turn out perfect, but the concept is fairly good. My technique could still use some refinement, though.
Steve in Peoria
I wasn't prepared for the difficulty of getting around the corners, so I didn't go too much past the curves.
Well, that was in 2019, and the tape has seen a lot of miles since then The orange was faded and the edges of the tape were starting to fray.
I decided to redo it, but with black and brown tape instead of black and orange. Mostly, it was to avoid having an orange tape that clashed with the burnt orange paint.
I also decided to try "squeezing" the tape together a bit to be able to manage the shorter distance on the inside of the curves.
It didn't turn out perfect, but the concept is fairly good. My technique could still use some refinement, though.
Steve in Peoria
#6047
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,816
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
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Reassembled the ‘72. Putting them together is always so much faster! I still have to clean up the rims and hubs and polish a few other bits, and the RD coiled housing is tried is too short and will revert to black. I’m really happy with how well it cleaned up, hope to take it out for a spin soon.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
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#6048
Full Member
Reassembled the ‘72. Putting them together is always so much faster! I still have to clean up the rims and hubs and polish a few other bits, and the RD coiled housing is tried is too short and will revert to black. I’m really happy with how well it cleaned up, hope to take it out for a spin soon.
#6049
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 564
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
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Another day, another problem to solve. The missing adjuster for the Superbe brakes arrived in post today, which is great. It also looks like the adjuster ring and cable holder / bolt are pretty much fused. Not so great. And it's not something you can just pop in to your LBS for and buy. I've seen a genuine Superbe one for something like $35 (plus shipping which would be another $20 for me) on fleabay, which I think is a bit excessive (even before the shipping cost). So that will be out of the question. Thankfully, compatible adjusters are fairly easily obtainable (for like 1/3rd the price of the original). The only problem is all I've seen have black O-rings, other than that, they look exactly the same.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
#6050
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,276
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Liked 6,577 Times
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3,776 Posts
Another day, another problem to solve. The missing adjuster for the Superbe brakes arrived in post today, which is great. It also looks like the adjuster ring and cable holder / bolt are pretty much fused. Not so great. And it's not something you can just pop in to your LBS for and buy. I've seen a genuine Superbe one for something like $35 (plus shipping which would be another $20 for me) on fleabay, which I think is a bit excessive (even before the shipping cost). So that will be out of the question. Thankfully, compatible adjusters are fairly easily obtainable (for like 1/3rd the price of the original). The only problem is all I've seen have black O-rings, other than that, they look exactly the same.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
Sometimes 2-3 days but have never had one that didn't comply.
I massage rubber bits sparingly with Vaseline to help preserve them.