For the love of English 3 speeds...
#8801
I don't think the crank arms are hardened. I've seen plenty of bent ones. In fact, I just bought another Sports junker with a bent arm. Unfortunately, it's the chainwheel side which means it won't fit in my bench vise. I'll figure some way to bend it straight.
#8802
Senior Member
I have all the time in my day but still get bogged down by errands and chores before I get to work on the bikes. At least I get to ride while I am knocking the errands off.
You can do this !
#8803
Senior Member
This past Sunday was a special day for me. On a grey cool day I donned a tweed cap and wool sweater and went for my first ride on the Raleigh Roadster, "Sir Wayes A. Tonne". Wow! This bike is a different ride than I had imagined. Smooth, upright, momentum, all words describing the tour of the 'hood. Thanks to all BF peeps for your help and support.
#8804
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,548
Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
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234 Posts
A finished bike will be something that will be enjoyed for years to come (by someone). Unfinished bikes lanquish in storage purgatory and could be scrapped one day. Trying to save them all keeps me going!
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
#8805
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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288 Posts
It's like a lot of things, bikes, cars, guitars, motorbikes etc. Once you take them apart (the easy part) there's a good chance they'll never get put back together.... also known as a basket case.
#8806
Senior Member
#8807
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,604
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
Liked 281 Times
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126 Posts
He has metal fulcrum clips instead of the cheap plastic ones. He also has LED replacements for the lighting.
There is a bicycle tool that was made by Cyclo and others before the war that was designed specifically for straightening bent crank arms. The tool has fallen out of favor with alloy cranks as they can't bend without breaking. But it works great on steel cranks, which can bend if the bike is in a crash.
#8808
Senior Member
Salubrious,
Yes, I saw those offered on the site. Will eventually get one but for now will dig through the bin at a long time LBS here and see if I can come up with one.
Spent some time on Tube for refresher on tuning the shifters then followed the steps. Shifting is crisp but the tick is too loud. Must go find my oil can.
Ment to hit the LBS for tire order but got side tracked with a long out of town bike errand. Sucked the time right out of my day!
At least the weather was fantastic !
Yes, I saw those offered on the site. Will eventually get one but for now will dig through the bin at a long time LBS here and see if I can come up with one.
Spent some time on Tube for refresher on tuning the shifters then followed the steps. Shifting is crisp but the tick is too loud. Must go find my oil can.
Ment to hit the LBS for tire order but got side tracked with a long out of town bike errand. Sucked the time right out of my day!
At least the weather was fantastic !
#8810
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,808
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Liked 337 Times
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226 Posts
This popped up on the local CL today. 2 VINTAGE BIKES
I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).
I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.
I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).
I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.
Last edited by dweenk; 12-10-15 at 05:57 PM.
#8811
This popped up on the local CL today. 2 VINTAGE BIKES
I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).
I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.
I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).
I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.
#8812
Abuse Magnet
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,870
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
Liked 177 Times
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90 Posts
How rebuildable are the later-year Raleigh rubber block pedals?
I know they're not MADE to be torn down, lubed, and adjusted, but I don't think that's a real barrier. I'm just wondering if I'm headed for heartache if I try.
I know they're not MADE to be torn down, lubed, and adjusted, but I don't think that's a real barrier. I'm just wondering if I'm headed for heartache if I try.
#8813
Senior Member
I think if you can get lube, grease into the bearings then you've done all that you can.
#8814
Senior Member
Had another think about the steel fulcrum and thought I should just go and get it.
Emailed Jon and getting things going. All steel bike...steel fulcrum. Sounds right.
From the site The Lake Pepin 3 speed tour
Emailed Jon and getting things going. All steel bike...steel fulcrum. Sounds right.
From the site The Lake Pepin 3 speed tour
Last edited by 3speedslow; 12-10-15 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Pic added
#8815
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: hopewell lct NY
Posts: 192
Bikes: 1969 schwinn sting ray 3 speed stick ...1974 raleigh sports
Likes: 0
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#8817
Senior Member
#8818
Senior Member
True. Would love to find an original steel fulcrum sleeve but not going to get me on the road when I need it now.
I figure it helps a great ride organization as well with the purchase.
I will continue looking for the older steel one.
#8819
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,548
Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
Liked 620 Times
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234 Posts
I have been using 75-90 gear oil (from my Triumph TR7)and letting it run in the pedal, and then wipe up.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
#8820
Senior Member
One set of pedals I took a straw, jammed it down into the tub of grease then wiped the outside clean. Pushed one end into the space next to the bearings and slowly squeezed the grease onto the bearings.
It works where the pedal threads into the crank arm side. Mostly I just use Phil's tenacious oil.
It works where the pedal threads into the crank arm side. Mostly I just use Phil's tenacious oil.
#8821
Senior Member
1972 ladies frame Raleigh Superbe. I have had this one sitting in some form of disrepair for at least a year and a half. I originally bought it for some parts but it turned out to be the wrong colour. I started the refurbish but it stalled once the dynohub was discovered to be damaged and dragged. It donated a few other parts for a mens 1978 Superbe and a 1980 ladies Sports once the repair was stalled. I found a new used dynohub and started once again. The pedal arm threads on the drive side seem to be stripped. I will either have to replace the crank arm or chase the threads. I tried with an old pedal going from the other side but the threaded portion wasn't long enough. Anyways, bla bla bla. Here it is...in all its slightly patinaed glory.
![](https://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a452/narhay/IMG_20151210_215559_zpsdhkre5nx.jpg)
![](https://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a452/narhay/IMG_20151210_215612_zpsgf9vnbuw.jpg)
![](https://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a452/narhay/IMG_20151210_215559_zpsdhkre5nx.jpg)
![](https://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a452/narhay/IMG_20151210_215612_zpsgf9vnbuw.jpg)
![](https://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/a452/narhay/IMG_20151210_215623_zpska2g2vwe.jpg)
#8822
Senior Member
I got a set of the Fibrax Raincheater pads, which are designed for steel rims. It wasn't easy, I ordered them direct from the UK. There is a US source for them, but the cost for two sets plus shipping from the UK was about the same as ONE set plus shipping from the US! Now to test them...
There were the original ‘Raleigh’ plain pads. These were reasonably OK in the dry, but they weren’t very good in the wet. They also used to go hard after a few years, and then they weren’t good for anything.
Then there were the ‘Weinmann’ style pads, with a cross pattern cut into the face. These were noticeably better than the plain pads in the wet – by a huge margin. And you didn’t lose out in the dry either. I think they used a softer compound than the solid Raleigh blocks, which might explain the performance.
I ended up buying a pair of the leather insert pads (Raleigh branded at the time), as they were advertised as being better in the wet. They are significantly better in the wet, but I’m not happy with the way that they perform in the dry. They just seem to glaze up and let you roll on in the dry.
Nowadays, with a free choice, I would tend to choose the ‘Weinmann’ style pads over anything else. The plain pads are all but extinct new, and I’m not that keen on the leather insert type for general use.
Apart from a couple of unfortunate forays into the world of Mountain Bikes, I’ve only ever ridden on steel rims for the last 40 years or so. I don’t have a problem with them. But I do worry about some of the comments I see on Bike Forums, when people talk about steel rims.
There seems to be an attitude that steel rims are a ‘Death Sentence’ on a bike, as you will ‘never stop in time’... Personally, I consider that to be utter poppycock.!
Keep the rims clean, use decent pads, and be positive with your braking and you won’t go far wrong…
#8823
Senior Member
FWIW I like the Kool Stop Grey Continental pads, mostly because they work reasonably well, are inexpensive, and are available locally without a lot of effort. Are there better pads - absolutely. But the combination of function, cost and availability is irresistible to me.
#8824
Senior Member
I have these brake blocks on my Superbe:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gZ_Vx1duPJ8/VmrpIZcZjNI/AAAAAAAAVL0/Fb8-_l_E3Q0/s800-Ic42/IMG_0086.JPG)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AhVTPVqeXPs/VmrpIW28JhI/AAAAAAAAVLw/zQsTo1cowv0/s800-Ic42/IMG_0087.JPG)
I tracked down the eBay auction source, and looks like they were made in the 1970s by T.D.S. of Seattle and were the "Sure Stop" model. They work quite well in wet and dry conditions.
I tracked down the eBay auction source, and looks like they were made in the 1970s by T.D.S. of Seattle and were the "Sure Stop" model. They work quite well in wet and dry conditions.
Last edited by nlerner; 12-11-15 at 09:26 AM.
#8825
Markk900 I was gonna say much the same as you.... With steel rims you ride within the capabilities of the bike & road conditions. As with any other bike, actually.
Having said that I've got a 1955 Humber Clipper (Lenton Sport variant) that came with 26 x 1 1/4" chrome steel rims, which are excellent, but I'm intending to fit alloy 700s (for all the obvious reasons) for regular use. Keeping the originals by. This is its first build with mostly original parts.
![](https://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/bicyclz/Running%203%204%20Profile%20Adjusted.jpg)
Brake calipers are temporary! I've binned the original Raleigh chromed steel calipers, they are awful....
Trigger is also later, but suits the current 3 speed AW hub. It'll get a 4 speed FM with the alloys.
![](https://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/bicyclz/running%20Head%20badge%20bars%20etc.jpg)
The guards are very sweet in my opinion, so delicate, & surviving 60 years is a feat in itself. Both transfers survive.
Having said that I've got a 1955 Humber Clipper (Lenton Sport variant) that came with 26 x 1 1/4" chrome steel rims, which are excellent, but I'm intending to fit alloy 700s (for all the obvious reasons) for regular use. Keeping the originals by. This is its first build with mostly original parts.
![](https://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/bicyclz/Running%203%204%20Profile%20Adjusted.jpg)
Brake calipers are temporary! I've binned the original Raleigh chromed steel calipers, they are awful....
Trigger is also later, but suits the current 3 speed AW hub. It'll get a 4 speed FM with the alloys.
![](https://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/bicyclz/running%20Head%20badge%20bars%20etc.jpg)
The guards are very sweet in my opinion, so delicate, & surviving 60 years is a feat in itself. Both transfers survive.
![](https://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc459/bicyclz/running%20rear%20wheel%20guards%20decals.jpg)