Ask the Community
#903
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 14,643
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Liked 4,564 Times
in
3,055 Posts
It has no relation to the original Mercier company and is just a name that Bikes Direct bought out to give some prestige to their online shop. They are also not blowing them out for Mercier or anyone they are just a low overhead company selling relatively cheap bikes to the unsuspecting masses and Mercier is not the same company from a long time ago.
Also according to their website they don't ship till Februaryish. I would rather spend that time buying a nice frame and parts and putting it together over winter, or at least having a winter bike before winter hits.
#904
Fresh Garbage
I need recommendations for a carbon fork expander plug that will work with any regular top cap. I'm looking to use this top cap https://shop.mashsf.com/tags/top-caps/
I'm looking at this product https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-powerhead-compressor-adjuster-bap03/rp-prod29884?gs=1&sku=sku152358&pgrid=54137515364&ptaid=pla-432046196762&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA%2BAll%2BProducts&utm_medium=base&utm_conte nt=mkwid%7Cs2t7eNowb_dc%7Cpcrid%7C253659801802%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C152358US
.
Last edited by hairnet; 10-29-18 at 12:43 AM.
#905
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Liked 738 Times
in
469 Posts
Fitting a top cap on an expansion plug system is no different than a star nut system. They are standardized across most brands. Unless it is some weird, proprietary design, they accept the same top cap bolt as a star nut.
I'm using the Specialized plug. It is long and supports the entire stem. $9.99 at Amain Cycling. They are a legit shop. I've ordered from them several times and run two of these plugs.
Tightening the large bolt inside the plug expands the plug so that it grips the inside of the steerer. The large bolt is hollow and threaded on the inside. The top cap bolt screws down into the center of the large bolt in the same way it would screw into a star nut. There really isn't a difference.
I actually didn't use the ENVE plug which came with the ENVE fork because I think the Specialized plug offers more support for the stem. The ENVE plug is on the right.
I'd just send the ENVE plug to you if I could find it.
I'm using the Specialized plug. It is long and supports the entire stem. $9.99 at Amain Cycling. They are a legit shop. I've ordered from them several times and run two of these plugs.
Tightening the large bolt inside the plug expands the plug so that it grips the inside of the steerer. The large bolt is hollow and threaded on the inside. The top cap bolt screws down into the center of the large bolt in the same way it would screw into a star nut. There really isn't a difference.
I actually didn't use the ENVE plug which came with the ENVE fork because I think the Specialized plug offers more support for the stem. The ENVE plug is on the right.
I'd just send the ENVE plug to you if I could find it.
#906
Fresh Garbage
I kept seeing things like the FSA plug that uses a proprietary top cap and then I couldn't tell with others if they did or didn't use something proprietary. I did order then one I linked to
#907
Senior Member
If you had a pretty nice, NEW, lugged, 1" threaded, 4130 trackend frameset in RAW, slathered in gun oil and bagged to preserve it; that you had to sell...
Would you leave it as is and take a lower price? Or have it cleaned and powder-coated to hopefully make it easier to sell, and at a higher price?
TIA...
Would you leave it as is and take a lower price? Or have it cleaned and powder-coated to hopefully make it easier to sell, and at a higher price?
TIA...
#908
dumb
If you had a pretty nice, NEW, lugged, 1" threaded, 4130 trackend frameset in RAW, slathered in gun oil and bagged to preserve it; that you had to sell...
Would you leave it as is and take a lower price? Or have it cleaned and powder-coated to hopefully make it easier to sell, and at a higher price?
TIA...
Would you leave it as is and take a lower price? Or have it cleaned and powder-coated to hopefully make it easier to sell, and at a higher price?
TIA...
But it if you HAVE to... are you going to make more than what it’s going to cost in time / money spent getting it powder coated? That is to say if you spend $100 in time and money getting it powder coated and only sell it for $100 more then you’re just breaking even and wasting your time. If you stand to gain a profit, say $50+ after all that then sure, put in the work! That’s just me
#909
Senior Member
I've been hanging onto it for too long for no good reason other than being too lazy to do anything else with it, and my general belief that it doesn't hurt to keep spares on hand. But at my wife's urging, I've decided to clear out some of the extraneous clutter around our place, the bulk of which according to her, consists of my bike odds and ends. Truth be told, she's right - most of this stuff will never be used so yeah, I have to sell it but don't mind so much.
So yes, the crux of the matter is - will I recover all or even most of the "investment," especially if it makes it easier to sell?
I half-heartedly tried selling it once before and the low-ball offers for it due to its current state were almost insulting. I had thought it being raw would be a pretty cool selling point, but then it seemed to turn out that raw frames/bikes had their time in the sun a few years ago and are no longer very popular.
Thus my dilemma
So yes, the crux of the matter is - will I recover all or even most of the "investment," especially if it makes it easier to sell?
I half-heartedly tried selling it once before and the low-ball offers for it due to its current state were almost insulting. I had thought it being raw would be a pretty cool selling point, but then it seemed to turn out that raw frames/bikes had their time in the sun a few years ago and are no longer very popular.
Thus my dilemma
#911
dumb
I've been hanging onto it for too long for no good reason other than being too lazy to do anything else with it, and my general belief that it doesn't hurt to keep spares on hand. But at my wife's urging, I've decided to clear out some of the extraneous clutter around our place, the bulk of which according to her, consists of my bike odds and ends. Truth be told, she's right - most of this stuff will never be used so yeah, I have to sell it but don't mind so much.
So yes, the crux of the matter is - will I recover all or even most of the "investment," especially if it makes it easier to sell?
I half-heartedly tried selling it once before and the low-ball offers for it due to its current state were almost insulting. I had thought it being raw would be a pretty cool selling point, but then it seemed to turn out that raw frames/bikes had their time in the sun a few years ago and are no longer very popular.
Thus my dilemma
So yes, the crux of the matter is - will I recover all or even most of the "investment," especially if it makes it easier to sell?
I half-heartedly tried selling it once before and the low-ball offers for it due to its current state were almost insulting. I had thought it being raw would be a pretty cool selling point, but then it seemed to turn out that raw frames/bikes had their time in the sun a few years ago and are no longer very popular.
Thus my dilemma
#912
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Liked 400 Times
in
196 Posts
Early Googling indicates that I can use pretty much whatever brake levers I want with cantis -- true? I was thinking of using some drops with TRP levers that I already for my CX bike with canti brakes.
#913
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 14,643
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Liked 4,564 Times
in
3,055 Posts
Generally cantis are a short pull brake so you should be good with the TRP drop bar levers. If you are using linear pull or want to do so TRP makes a road compatible set that are short pull.
#915
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 14,643
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Liked 4,564 Times
in
3,055 Posts
#916
Installing a chain on a Kilo tt. The videos I saw say to move the rear wheel to the front of the dropout before sizing the chain. When I do this, the tire hits the frame, should I go ahead and move up the wheel like that, then install the chain?
Dave
Dave
#919
#920
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,948
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Liked 400 Times
in
196 Posts
Installing a chain:
1- Fasten the wheel in the middle of the dropouts.
2- Wrap the chain around the chainring and cog to see how long you need it.
3- Remove links as necessary.
1- Fasten the wheel in the middle of the dropouts.
2- Wrap the chain around the chainring and cog to see how long you need it.
3- Remove links as necessary.
#921
Dave
#923
Senior Member
Messing with my bike psetup. Tried my FG with bullhorns. Nice, but could be better. Tried today the highest climb in town, with dropbars and normals shoes, strapless. HATED. The position in the hoods for me were horrible, even if the drops were nice. Just as a experiment, I stole the handlebar from my MTB (a chopped Easton riser), and tossed a 110mm stem. AMAZING. I always tought the long handlebars on FG looked a bit stupid (specially since I commute in traffic), but it's so fun!! Felt like a kid with a bmx
So, I will use long riser handlebars and normal shoes. I was getting knee pain for inproper position, and no matter how much I tried, it won't work. I put the flat pedals and I tought I would remove those as soon as I got new pedals and shoes and got a bike fit, but I believe i will keep then. No knee pain, and it is just pratical for city riding. I don't care right now about the power loss or skids; So my questions:
1 - Rode with double brakes and without straps. Worked fine, but will I die soon? In one of the descents, my feet slided on the pedal, but not enough to lose contact. The short time I used straps I don't like it that much (maybe because I think it would be a magical device and I would be able to pull like a clipless setup ) Should I be on the safe side and buy new pedals and straps (my flats won't works with straps)?
2 - As said above, I will use both brakes and a mtb bar. Wich modern lever support road calipers? I got some MTB levers here, or I can buy some secondary levers (cyclocross style) and mount in the position of normal levers. Would that work? I just need some stopping device wich I can buy here in Brazil. Later on I can buy some nice levers in Ebay.
Thanks in advance.
So, I will use long riser handlebars and normal shoes. I was getting knee pain for inproper position, and no matter how much I tried, it won't work. I put the flat pedals and I tought I would remove those as soon as I got new pedals and shoes and got a bike fit, but I believe i will keep then. No knee pain, and it is just pratical for city riding. I don't care right now about the power loss or skids; So my questions:
1 - Rode with double brakes and without straps. Worked fine, but will I die soon? In one of the descents, my feet slided on the pedal, but not enough to lose contact. The short time I used straps I don't like it that much (maybe because I think it would be a magical device and I would be able to pull like a clipless setup ) Should I be on the safe side and buy new pedals and straps (my flats won't works with straps)?
2 - As said above, I will use both brakes and a mtb bar. Wich modern lever support road calipers? I got some MTB levers here, or I can buy some secondary levers (cyclocross style) and mount in the position of normal levers. Would that work? I just need some stopping device wich I can buy here in Brazil. Later on I can buy some nice levers in Ebay.
Thanks in advance.
#924
Senior Member
Tried googling to answer this but am failing to find an answer. Does anyone know if there's a way to use a retro BMX style 3 piece crank like the GT Power Series (link below) or Redline Flite cranks on a bike with a standard 68mm bb shell? Just intrigued by the idea of adding a little old school BMX flair to my bike.
https://www.ridebmx.com/product/part...series-cranks/
https://www.ridebmx.com/product/part...series-cranks/
Last edited by j_e_r_e_m_y; 12-18-18 at 07:18 PM.
#925
Tried googling to answer this but am failing to find an answer. Does anyone know if there's a way to use a retro BMX style 3 piece crank like the GT Power Series (link below) or Redline Flite cranks on a bike with a standard 68mm bb shell? Just intrigued by the idea of adding a little old school BMX flair to my bike.
https://www.ridebmx.com/product/part...series-cranks/
https://www.ridebmx.com/product/part...series-cranks/
Last edited by TugaDude; 12-24-18 at 12:15 PM.