What's your Crossbike makeover plans?
#101
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so changes to date to my Globe Vienna...
Wellgo B67 pedals...
Ergon GP3 grips, narrowed flat bars (instead of risers), longer stem, speedo, and a 150 lumen NR Mako ...
Narrow range 13-26T HG50 cassette (replacing a 11-32T), Alivio derailleur (replacing a sloppy Altus)
Water bottle and Kryptonite cable round it out for now...
next, will be looking for a lighter crankset, maybe a 26-36-48 instead of the 28-38-48, I dunno. With that narrow range cassette, my gearing is pretty good. longer term, some better wheels, and 32mm instead of 35mm tires.
Wellgo B67 pedals...
Ergon GP3 grips, narrowed flat bars (instead of risers), longer stem, speedo, and a 150 lumen NR Mako ...
Narrow range 13-26T HG50 cassette (replacing a 11-32T), Alivio derailleur (replacing a sloppy Altus)
Water bottle and Kryptonite cable round it out for now...
next, will be looking for a lighter crankset, maybe a 26-36-48 instead of the 28-38-48, I dunno. With that narrow range cassette, my gearing is pretty good. longer term, some better wheels, and 32mm instead of 35mm tires.
#102
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Loving all these makeovers!
Can't wait to get started on mine. Going to order some straight handlebars with some handlebar ends to make it look like a bullhorn handlebar. (Might order it right now off ebay, or wait until tomorrow morning so i can deposit my pay first lol)
Can't wait to get started on mine. Going to order some straight handlebars with some handlebar ends to make it look like a bullhorn handlebar. (Might order it right now off ebay, or wait until tomorrow morning so i can deposit my pay first lol)
#103
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Forresterace, your Sirus and the backstory are very interesting. Since it has shorter chainstays than most touring bikes, how is the handling? I no longer have my Trek 520 for loaded touring, and have thought about carrying rear panniers on my Specialized Diverge, but have wondered how it would handle. I see that you have done both credit card and fully loaded, so you look like the person to ask.
If you are able to mount a rear rack on your Diverge, especially with discs, then give it a try. As long as you don't get carried away with the weight in the panniers, you should be fine. In my fully loaded form, my equipment weight (incl. bags) is about 30 lbs.
Doug
#104
Interocitor Command
I have some plans for a 2010/11 Giant Roam 2 overhaul in the spring. A few months back I completely stripped my Raleigh M60 Mountain Sport down to the frame (posts 342, 343 and 347 https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...l#post18257774 ) and overhauled it which left me some extra parts. I intend to use these on the Roam 2 when I give it a complete overhaul.
It will be getting the following used parts from the M60:
UN-73 Sq Taper BB (replaced the M60's stock BB shortly after purchase)
Deore Triple Crankset/Chainrings (replaced the M60's stock crankset shortly after purchase)
Deore M510 Shifter Pods (stock from M60)
Deore M510 Rear Derailleur (stock from M60)
Swap seats with a different bike
New parts will be:
Ergon grips
HG50 14-25t 9 speed rear cassette
All new cables & fresh housings
New brake pads
Fresh grease/lube/yadda yadda
I've been toying with the idea of painting it, but I doubt I'll do it. There's just too much other stuff to do IRT the house, yard, other hobbies, actually riding a bike, etc. Besides, this was supposed to be a beater bike. If I were to paint it, it would be a darker color, which will show dirt and grime more easily too.
It will be getting the following used parts from the M60:
UN-73 Sq Taper BB (replaced the M60's stock BB shortly after purchase)
Deore Triple Crankset/Chainrings (replaced the M60's stock crankset shortly after purchase)
Deore M510 Shifter Pods (stock from M60)
Deore M510 Rear Derailleur (stock from M60)
Swap seats with a different bike
New parts will be:
Ergon grips
HG50 14-25t 9 speed rear cassette
All new cables & fresh housings
New brake pads
Fresh grease/lube/yadda yadda
I've been toying with the idea of painting it, but I doubt I'll do it. There's just too much other stuff to do IRT the house, yard, other hobbies, actually riding a bike, etc. Besides, this was supposed to be a beater bike. If I were to paint it, it would be a darker color, which will show dirt and grime more easily too.
Last edited by Doctor Morbius; 12-01-15 at 09:37 PM.
#106
Interocitor Command
#107
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Just changed my SRAM Via crankset out for an SRAM XO, just waiting for these guys to confirm they can produce the carbon chainrings so I can return the gearing to the original spec. https://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/bicyc...intropage.html
Also just added Conti GT4000 four season tyres.
Also just added Conti GT4000 four season tyres.
#109
Interocitor Command
OK, I think a couple of people are confused as to what is meant by makeover plans. Makeover plans involves things that have not yet occurred. It's a course of action that will take place in the future, not the past. If you've already done something to makeover/modify/upgrade your hybrid, there is a sticky for that at the top of the page. Can't miss it.
https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...rid-today.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...rid-today.html
#110
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The stock saddle on my FX 7.4 is decent but I've always had leather. Just tried a Brooks C17 but it bugged me that I couldn't slide around. Rats, it goes to eBay and a standard black leather B17 is next.
#111
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I see that I posted in this thread three years ago. I upgraded pretty much everything except the headset and the seatpost clamp on my Trek 730 and I was still thrilled with the ride but I was unhappy with the amount of toe overlap I had and the inability to go with even wider tires. I discovered that a Surly Karate Monkey has the same geometry as my 730 but it has 3cm more effective top-tube length (no more toe overlap) and clearance for huge tires! The problem is that modern KM's only accept disk brakes and my good wheels require rim brakes. The solution was to watch for an old frameset from the days when KM's accepted both rim and disk brakes and my patience was rewarded when I find a 2008 Husker Blue frameset. I moved all of my upgraded 730 components over to the KM and that's where I am now. My next step is a set of 50mm Schwalbe Marathon Supremes and some new thin pedals that will allow me to lower the saddle a bit.
There are a couple of things I dislike about the KM, mainly the suspension corrected fork and the huge amount of seatpost showing. I designed a custom frameset by starting with the KM geometry, eliminating the suspension corrected fork, modifying the fork rake and bottom bracket drop to give it the same ride with 50mm tires that it has with 40mm tires and adjusted the seat-tube length and top-tube angle to the most aesthetically pleasing proportions. I hope to have this built someday and I might also upgrade to a Rohloff rear hub someday.
Here is my current bike (upgraded to a 1x9 drivetrain):
Here is my custom idea that is based on the KM:
There are a couple of things I dislike about the KM, mainly the suspension corrected fork and the huge amount of seatpost showing. I designed a custom frameset by starting with the KM geometry, eliminating the suspension corrected fork, modifying the fork rake and bottom bracket drop to give it the same ride with 50mm tires that it has with 40mm tires and adjusted the seat-tube length and top-tube angle to the most aesthetically pleasing proportions. I hope to have this built someday and I might also upgrade to a Rohloff rear hub someday.
Here is my current bike (upgraded to a 1x9 drivetrain):
Here is my custom idea that is based on the KM:
#112
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Love your bike.
Can you do me a favour (or other members), and please show me your US cable routing from the front. I use the Australian and Japanese routing, for example right hand is front brake, and left is back brake. I just want to see as a comparison. I read once that yours is set up that way to comply with an old road rule which says you must use your left hand for signaling, or something like that. BTW not trying to make this into a debate which is right or wrong.
This is mine...
Can you do me a favour (or other members), and please show me your US cable routing from the front. I use the Australian and Japanese routing, for example right hand is front brake, and left is back brake. I just want to see as a comparison. I read once that yours is set up that way to comply with an old road rule which says you must use your left hand for signaling, or something like that. BTW not trying to make this into a debate which is right or wrong.
This is mine...
#113
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Trek DS 8.5 -- with Shimano Deore/SLX components.
Changes so far:
Fits better, works better, and love the much improved after-market wheelset that I had built. Am fiddling with overall position and fit, via minor stem, bar and saddle changes. Is nobody's lightweight, but it's sure-footed and reliable, fairly comfortable.
Changes so far:
- Stem -- Ritchey adjustable, 80mm.
- Bars -- FSA Metropolis handlebars. Likely to change to one with a greater rise, somewhat greater sweep.
- Wheelset -- Velocity Dyad (700c), Shimano Deore XT hubs, DT Swiss spokes, Continental Tour Ride 47-622 tires. Excellent, so far.
- Cassette -- changed to 12-36. Likely will alter the chainrings (down) a bit to allow for lower gearing.
- Rear rack -- Topeak Super Tourist DX (for disc).
- Rear rack bags -- Topeak MTX DX trunk bag.
- Pedals -- no changes, yet, but likely will change to something a bit wider/longer to accommodate my larger feet.
- Rain fenders -- still hunting for ones that'll fit with the 47-622 tires; might need to switch to 42-622 in order to allow my existing SKS Longboard fenders to work.
- Lighting -- contemplating a front dynamo hub swap, with appropriate headlight and taillight; currently using a variety of smaller, battery-driven lights (front and rear). Hope to finish this by start of winter this year.
- Future -- suspension fork -- depending on how this factory one lasts, I might well change to a somewhat smoother and more-capable fork.
Fits better, works better, and love the much improved after-market wheelset that I had built. Am fiddling with overall position and fit, via minor stem, bar and saddle changes. Is nobody's lightweight, but it's sure-footed and reliable, fairly comfortable.