For the love of English 3 speeds...
07-20-17, 04:26 AM
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Location: Toronto
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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I had a shifter that I already took apart and gave a 2 day soak in Evapo-Rust and didn't get around to putting together again. Figured I'd post some pics of a reassembly. This shifter looked shabby. Lots of light surface rust and rust stains but it wasn't bent and the colors on the face plate were completely intact. Which is rare. Note that the Evapo-Rust removed the stains from the face plate but didn't degrade the colors at all. The important picture here is where I'm holding the case against the edge of the table top. This is the whole trick of getting the body pins lined up while they're under spring pressure. Here, I'm fitting the second pin into the hole in the cam plate from the front. Next, I flip it over, hold it the same way and line up the pin with the hole on the back side.
001 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
002 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
004 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
005 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
006 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
007 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
008 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
009 by Billy Bones, on Flickr
001 by Billy Bones, on Flickr002 by Billy Bones, on Flickr004 by Billy Bones, on Flickr005 by Billy Bones, on Flickr006 by Billy Bones, on Flickr007 by Billy Bones, on Flickr008 by Billy Bones, on Flickr009 by Billy Bones, on FlickrThe photos really help.
07-20-17, 08:12 AM
Senior Member
Here's an update on the '68 Sports that I've been re-habbing:
As originally found from a local CL seller:
As of this morning:
That almost bronze-green chain guard was in my stash, and it might not look much better than the black one it came with. Otherwise, I was able to re-use almost everything, including the gear cable and barrel end, chain, and brake cables. I had to pull from the bin the 3-speed trigger, one brake pad, some housing, a matching pair of used tires (the existing rear was shot; front will go back in the bin), and that surprisingly comfortable Schwinn-labeled sprung saddle. The rear wheel isn't particularly round because some spokes are stripped in their nipples, but I actually don't notice it while riding. I also had to straighten the bent steerer on the fork, which wasn't too arduous. And I'm having a heck of a time centering the rear brake (I think the spring has more tension on one side than the other so some judicious bending is in order). Otherwise, the bright parts cleaned up quite well.
As originally found from a local CL seller:
As of this morning:
That almost bronze-green chain guard was in my stash, and it might not look much better than the black one it came with. Otherwise, I was able to re-use almost everything, including the gear cable and barrel end, chain, and brake cables. I had to pull from the bin the 3-speed trigger, one brake pad, some housing, a matching pair of used tires (the existing rear was shot; front will go back in the bin), and that surprisingly comfortable Schwinn-labeled sprung saddle. The rear wheel isn't particularly round because some spokes are stripped in their nipples, but I actually don't notice it while riding. I also had to straighten the bent steerer on the fork, which wasn't too arduous. And I'm having a heck of a time centering the rear brake (I think the spring has more tension on one side than the other so some judicious bending is in order). Otherwise, the bright parts cleaned up quite well.
07-20-17, 08:50 AM
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,052
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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That's really good work, Neal. I'm impressed with the steerer tube straightening. That sounds harder than fork blades, but maybe not? Fixing the brake spring will be easy by comparison. I've done that several times.
I'm puzzled when I see handlebars pointing up in that way and prefer them down. Do some people like them up like that? I assume people leave them that way out of negligence.
I'm puzzled when I see handlebars pointing up in that way and prefer them down. Do some people like them up like that? I assume people leave them that way out of negligence.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
07-20-17, 09:26 AM
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Bikes: '78 Raleigh Competition GS, 63 Raleigh Sports, '34 Raleigh Sports
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On the road again...
After a couple of years, back on the road.
The bottom bracket was squeaking, so I pulled the crank to repack it. It seems 50 years since the last time it was assembled had made it a bit sticky. I came across a magnificent discovery, a sealed bearing cottered bottom bracket. This superior replacement gave me license to remove the sticky right cup with a cold chisel. While it took a bit of modification to grind the left cup, it's now back on the road, complete with new Sun CR18 alloy rims. It's a fantastic ride. I like to have a bike you need to change clothes o ride, and one you don't. I'm back up to full inventory (2) bikes, which is appropriate for the small amount of square footage available in the garage.
The bottom bracket was squeaking, so I pulled the crank to repack it. It seems 50 years since the last time it was assembled had made it a bit sticky. I came across a magnificent discovery, a sealed bearing cottered bottom bracket. This superior replacement gave me license to remove the sticky right cup with a cold chisel. While it took a bit of modification to grind the left cup, it's now back on the road, complete with new Sun CR18 alloy rims. It's a fantastic ride. I like to have a bike you need to change clothes o ride, and one you don't. I'm back up to full inventory (2) bikes, which is appropriate for the small amount of square footage available in the garage.
07-20-17, 10:38 AM
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,052
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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Nice work, [MENTION=349228]jon.612[/MENTION]. What kind of seatpost is that?
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
07-20-17, 11:25 AM
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Location: Saint Paul, MN
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Bikes: '78 Raleigh Competition GS, 63 Raleigh Sports, '34 Raleigh Sports
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It's a "laid back" bmx seatpost. I'm 6'2" riding a 23" bike, but I've found that the bmx world and old Raleighs have a lot in common in terms of parts dimensions, not so much in attitude (I've never said "RAD, Dude!" while riding my Raleigh). Brakes and other parts are good fits and there are some good performance parts that are cheap (Chinese made, but reasonable quality). This is a chromoly seatpost with good chrome - makes this a great fit.
07-20-17, 08:33 PM
Here's an update on the '68 Sports that I've been re-habbing:
As originally found from a local CL seller:
As of this morning:
That almost bronze-green chain guard was in my stash, and it might not look much better than the black one it came with. Otherwise, I was able to re-use almost everything, including the gear cable and barrel end, chain, and brake cables. I had to pull from the bin the 3-speed trigger, one brake pad, some housing, a matching pair of used tires (the existing rear was shot; front will go back in the bin), and that surprisingly comfortable Schwinn-labeled sprung saddle. The rear wheel isn't particularly round because some spokes are stripped in their nipples, but I actually don't notice it while riding. I also had to straighten the bent steerer on the fork, which wasn't too arduous. And I'm having a heck of a time centering the rear brake (I think the spring has more tension on one side than the other so some judicious bending is in order). Otherwise, the bright parts cleaned up quite well.
As originally found from a local CL seller:
As of this morning:
That almost bronze-green chain guard was in my stash, and it might not look much better than the black one it came with. Otherwise, I was able to re-use almost everything, including the gear cable and barrel end, chain, and brake cables. I had to pull from the bin the 3-speed trigger, one brake pad, some housing, a matching pair of used tires (the existing rear was shot; front will go back in the bin), and that surprisingly comfortable Schwinn-labeled sprung saddle. The rear wheel isn't particularly round because some spokes are stripped in their nipples, but I actually don't notice it while riding. I also had to straighten the bent steerer on the fork, which wasn't too arduous. And I'm having a heck of a time centering the rear brake (I think the spring has more tension on one side than the other so some judicious bending is in order). Otherwise, the bright parts cleaned up quite well.
07-21-17, 01:54 PM
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Bikes: 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
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It's a "laid back" bmx seatpost. I'm 6'2" riding a 23" bike, but I've found that the bmx world and old Raleighs have a lot in common in terms of parts dimensions, not so much in attitude (I've never said "RAD, Dude!" while riding my Raleigh). Brakes and other parts are good fits and there are some good performance parts that are cheap (Chinese made, but reasonable quality). This is a chromoly seatpost with good chrome - makes this a great fit.
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2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
07-21-17, 03:24 PM
Senior Member
After having both a return spring snap and the second lever pivot eyebolt come loose, I decided it was time to finally replace the handlebars altogether.
I found a shop in Germany which imported a bunch of Atlas bikes from India and split them down into individual parts. What's interesting is the thread dimensions are exactly the same as Raleigh, but the across-the-flats of every nut is much larger, more or less 11mm. I like that, much easier 3/16th whitworth spanner in Holland.
The one thing though is that the quality control is non existent. The first pair of these atlas bars I had, the chrome all peeled off and the pivot bolt came totally loose immediately. The second pair seems fine though.
I found a shop in Germany which imported a bunch of Atlas bikes from India and split them down into individual parts. What's interesting is the thread dimensions are exactly the same as Raleigh, but the across-the-flats of every nut is much larger, more or less 11mm. I like that, much easier 3/16th whitworth spanner in Holland.
The one thing though is that the quality control is non existent. The first pair of these atlas bars I had, the chrome all peeled off and the pivot bolt came totally loose immediately. The second pair seems fine though.
07-21-17, 03:52 PM
On the road
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Posts: 2,306
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
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After having both a return spring snap and the second lever pivot eyebolt come loose, I decided it was time to finally replace the handlebars altogether.
I found a shop in Germany which imported a bunch of Atlas bikes from India and split them down into individual parts. What's interesting is the thread dimensions are exactly the same as Raleigh, but the across-the-flats of every nut is much larger, more or less 11mm. I like that, much easier 3/16th whitworth spanner in Holland.
The one thing though is that the quality control is non existent. The first pair of these atlas bars I had, the chrome all peeled off and the pivot bolt came totally loose immediately. The second pair seems fine though.
I found a shop in Germany which imported a bunch of Atlas bikes from India and split them down into individual parts. What's interesting is the thread dimensions are exactly the same as Raleigh, but the across-the-flats of every nut is much larger, more or less 11mm. I like that, much easier 3/16th whitworth spanner in Holland.
The one thing though is that the quality control is non existent. The first pair of these atlas bars I had, the chrome all peeled off and the pivot bolt came totally loose immediately. The second pair seems fine though.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
07-21-17, 04:00 PM
Senior Member
Yeah I know about the influence of Raleigh in India as well as how much of a bugger the eyelets are when they go wrong, that's why I replaced the bars and chose ones from India.
I did see a dutch market superbe which had the exact same shape north road bars as the UK original, but instead of screwed in pivot bolts it had a big cast section marked prominently "Raleigh stainless" which looked massively stronger. Haven't been able to source a set though, every rod braked Raleigh on marktplaats is the normal type.
Can you guess what the ziptied box does?
I did see a dutch market superbe which had the exact same shape north road bars as the UK original, but instead of screwed in pivot bolts it had a big cast section marked prominently "Raleigh stainless" which looked massively stronger. Haven't been able to source a set though, every rod braked Raleigh on marktplaats is the normal type.
Can you guess what the ziptied box does?
Last edited by Cute Boy Horse; 07-21-17 at 04:24 PM.
07-21-17, 04:25 PM
Haven't had trouble with loose eyelets yet, but considering what I've heard here about the futility of repairing these and the poor plating of the handlebars from China and India, I think I'd try drilling it through and making a stainless steel eyelet that bolted through the bar.
Last edited by BigChief; 07-22-17 at 05:00 AM.
07-22-17, 07:46 AM
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Not sure if this is in line with current pricing, but this thing looks beautiful. If I didn't already have too many bikes(as if that can happen) for a military family that moves every few years, this might come home with me. This isn't my bike and I don't have a dog in the fight, just love the older 3 speeds and always keep an eye out for them. I could easily facilitate if someone needed the help.
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
07-22-17, 12:37 PM
On the road
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Posts: 2,306
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
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Not sure if this is in line with current pricing, but this thing looks beautiful. If I didn't already have too many bikes(as if that can happen) for a military family that moves every few years, this might come home with me. This isn't my bike and I don't have a dog in the fight, just love the older 3 speeds and always keep an eye out for them. I could easily facilitate if someone needed the help.
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
07-22-17, 02:04 PM
Senior Member
Not sure if this is in line with current pricing, but this thing looks beautiful. If I didn't already have too many bikes(as if that can happen) for a military family that moves every few years, this might come home with me. This isn't my bike and I don't have a dog in the fight, just love the older 3 speeds and always keep an eye out for them. I could easily facilitate if someone needed the help.
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/h...170190874.html
-H
07-24-17, 08:01 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Rudge Report
Seller in Toronto has this advertised as a 1920's Rudge.
I think it's 50's/ early 60's.
Thoughts?
$_2dhdet7.jpg
$_2rh7.jpg
$_2mfg7.jpg
I think it's 50's/ early 60's.
Thoughts?
$_2dhdet7.jpg
$_2rh7.jpg
$_2mfg7.jpg
07-24-17, 08:05 PM
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Raleigh bought Rudge in 43 so it's post war. Big deep handlebars and interesting fluted 3 pin cranks with acorn nuts. Fork bend is free? 
07-24-17, 08:35 PM
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07-25-17, 12:53 AM
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Rim and hub
Came across a Maxim (made in england) hub laced to a Dunlop 26 1 3/8 Westwood rim with nipple washers fitted.
I've never heard of a Maxim hub, no info on the net.
Is this an original combination or a new hub?
Best Regards
I've never heard of a Maxim hub, no info on the net.
Is this an original combination or a new hub?
Best Regards
07-25-17, 03:55 AM
Seller in Toronto has this advertised as a 1920's Rudge.
I think it's 50's/ early 60's.
Thoughts?
Attachment 573356
Attachment 573357
Attachment 573358
I think it's 50's/ early 60's.
Thoughts?
Attachment 573356
Attachment 573357
Attachment 573358
Last edited by BigChief; 07-25-17 at 04:37 AM.
07-25-17, 05:02 AM
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07-25-17, 05:03 AM
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I finally got the DL-1 stripped down. I find it really satisfying to break a bike down into its parts. One of the cotter pins broke a g-clamp 
and then the vice popped them both out whole and re-usable.
I found someone to help me with the fork alignment.
I'd like to 're-set' the stance of the bike, as I noticed that the top tube was slanting down towards the front compared to images on here of DL-1's where the top tube looks like it's parallel to the ground. So I think this might mean that there is too much bend in the forks, which might have happened during shipping.
I read somewhere that the rake on a DL-1 fork should be 3 inches - can anyone please take a look at their forks to give me a measurement?
geometry_fork_rake copy by arty dave armour, on Flickr
I measured mine by placing a straight-edge along the centre line of the forks. From the straight-edge to the drop-out centre on one side was 85mm (3 & 3/8"), and about 90mm on the other (3 & 1/2")
and then the vice popped them both out whole and re-usable.I found someone to help me with the fork alignment.
I'd like to 're-set' the stance of the bike, as I noticed that the top tube was slanting down towards the front compared to images on here of DL-1's where the top tube looks like it's parallel to the ground. So I think this might mean that there is too much bend in the forks, which might have happened during shipping.
I read somewhere that the rake on a DL-1 fork should be 3 inches - can anyone please take a look at their forks to give me a measurement?
geometry_fork_rake copy by arty dave armour, on FlickrI measured mine by placing a straight-edge along the centre line of the forks. From the straight-edge to the drop-out centre on one side was 85mm (3 & 3/8"), and about 90mm on the other (3 & 1/2")
Last edited by arty dave; 07-25-17 at 05:17 AM.
07-25-17, 05:24 AM
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The original question was whether the bike from the 20's. Which it's not. It's safe to say it's post war, as Raleigh made armaments and military bikes, not consumer models. We're just ID'ing the era, as Big Chief has done nicely.
07-25-17, 06:50 AM
I finally got the DL-1 stripped down. I find it really satisfying to break a bike down into its parts. One of the cotter pins broke a g-clamp and then the vice popped them both out whole and re-usable.
I found someone to help me with the fork alignment.
I'd like to 're-set' the stance of the bike, as I noticed that the top tube was slanting down towards the front compared to images on here of DL-1's where the top tube looks like it's parallel to the ground. So I think this might mean that there is too much bend in the forks, which might have happened during shipping.
I read somewhere that the rake on a DL-1 fork should be 3 inches - can anyone please take a look at their forks to give me a measurement?
geometry_fork_rake copy by arty dave armour, on Flickr
I measured mine by placing a straight-edge along the centre line of the forks. From the straight-edge to the drop-out centre on one side was 85mm (3 & 3/8"), and about 90mm on the other (3 & 1/2")
and then the vice popped them both out whole and re-usable.I found someone to help me with the fork alignment.
I'd like to 're-set' the stance of the bike, as I noticed that the top tube was slanting down towards the front compared to images on here of DL-1's where the top tube looks like it's parallel to the ground. So I think this might mean that there is too much bend in the forks, which might have happened during shipping.
I read somewhere that the rake on a DL-1 fork should be 3 inches - can anyone please take a look at their forks to give me a measurement?
geometry_fork_rake copy by arty dave armour, on FlickrI measured mine by placing a straight-edge along the centre line of the forks. From the straight-edge to the drop-out centre on one side was 85mm (3 & 3/8"), and about 90mm on the other (3 & 1/2")
07-25-17, 07:40 AM
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has anyone tried using a thumb shifter on a SA three speed?
I find the SA shifter a bit vague and clunky and wondered if there is anything else that works better?
I have a 1969 Sport in the garage stripped down waiting for me to recover from a broken hip so I can touch up the paint and clear coat it. It is going to be a beautiful bike when finished. I will probably leave it all stock except for a 22 tooth cog in back but might do a little customizing just to be different.
I find the SA shifter a bit vague and clunky and wondered if there is anything else that works better?
I have a 1969 Sport in the garage stripped down waiting for me to recover from a broken hip so I can touch up the paint and clear coat it. It is going to be a beautiful bike when finished. I will probably leave it all stock except for a 22 tooth cog in back but might do a little customizing just to be different.
