For the love of English 3 speeds...
I have the correct spanner for that bottom bracket - it's very thin, but the adjustable cup threads were so dry and so tight that I had to try to hold the spanner in place, then hit the end of it with a hammer to get it to even move. I was using like a ball peen hammer. I switched to a heavy sledge hammer? type hammer with some heft to it and it made a huge difference.
Here's a photo of the "before".
1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr
Here's a photo of the "before".
1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr
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On the AW from '72 I took apart a few weeks ago, the threads on the hub shell and ball ring were the same way. I think the many years they were closed up tight to each other, completely dry, caused some decomposition of the threads on both. Cleaned and greased the parts screwed together ok. Not smoothly, but ok.
If the penetrating oil and patience method doesn't work, if it's below freezing you might leave the frame out overnight then judiciously apply a heat gun to the BB shell. That *might* help, unless it really is cross threaded, then maybe plan C ...
If by some miracle you can get the fixed cup off, then the Sheldon method of fixed cup removal might work on the adjustable cup. Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups ... you'd want to use a second nut so you could torque it off lefty-loosie I think.
If by some miracle you can get the fixed cup off, then the Sheldon method of fixed cup removal might work on the adjustable cup. Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups ... you'd want to use a second nut so you could torque it off lefty-loosie I think.
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Great work VV, love it when someone takes on and gets the upper hand on a pita BB.
I have the correct spanner for that bottom bracket - it's very thin, but the adjustable cup threads were so dry and so tight that I had to try to hold the spanner in place, then hit the end of it with a hammer to get it to even move. I was using like a ball peen hammer. I switched to a heavy sledge hammer? type hammer with some heft to it and it made a huge difference.
Here's a photo of the "before".
1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr
Here's a photo of the "before".
1971 Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket spindle, lock washer and adjustable cup prior to overhaul. by velocivixen, on Flickr
Senior Member
Stripping apart all the junkpile bikes, I learned that pedals and BBs are not my friends. Not old rusty crusty ones, anyway. The proprietor not only has 40 years of bike shop experience and knows every ideal angle for leverage, but he's way stronger than I am. I hate when a part defeats me and I have to say, "M---, I just can't bust this one loose." Wherein he steps in and gives it a wack or a serious pull and off it comes.
I know Sturmey Archer sells a friction shifter for it's 3 speed hubs. Has anyone used just a generic, like a SunTour friction shifter for a AW 3 speed? Does a generic shifter have enough throw to get all 3 gears? Is there enough friction to hold the shift in place?
Thoughts? Anyone ever use one?
Thoughts? Anyone ever use one?
I've never tried a friction shifter (or a Suntour bar end) with an AW hub, but my wag is that it would work, but not very well. I think the major problem would be the neutral in between 2nd and 3rd gear. My expereince is that if cable tension in 2nd gear is not quite right that the hub can modulate between 2nd and neutral with unpleasant results. So unpleasant that just the thought of it scares me from considering testing a Sun Tour bar end shifter.
The SA shifters are available as bar end, seatpost mount, and handle bar mount and are not really that expensive. Cheaper than a well used pair of Sun Tour bar end shifters.
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[MENTION=13919]des[/MENTION]conhesido- Thanks for that information. I’m not really sure what direction I’m eventually gonna go on this bike. For now will keep it stock.....
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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1969 Robin Hood Semi Scorcher
A lot of recent activity on the forum.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
$_59.jpg
P1190938.jpg
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
$_59.jpg
P1190938.jpg
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
Senior Member
I think the major problem would be the neutral in between 2nd and 3rd gear. My expereince is that if cable tension in 2nd gear is not quite right that the hub can modulate between 2nd and neutral with unpleasant results. So unpleasant that just the thought of it scares me from considering testing a Sun Tour bar end shifter.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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The '72 Sports I've been riding around since, I think, mid 2014. This is the only photo I have pre-renovation, as I bought it off my friendly LBS. The original rims had to be swapped for CR18s; the sidewall rust was unsmoothable and chewed through the brake shoes in just one day-long ride. I'd planned to do that anyway, it was just speeded up a little bit. It also got a new chain and shifter wire/housing. The B72 lasted almost two years, but eventually tore through, even with some thick foam beneath it, so now the bike has a conventional torn seat, which is actually perfectly comfortable. The Sports is not the most useful bike I have--that would be a Dahon folder--but it is the most fun. After not having one since high school, this turned me into a Found Jesus bore on the subject of old English three speeds.
Edit: March 2013. So it's just past five years. Time flies on a Raleigh Sports.
Edit: March 2013. So it's just past five years. Time flies on a Raleigh Sports.
Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 04-08-18 at 08:21 AM.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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288 Posts
A lot of recent activity on the forum.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
Attachment 606349
Attachment 606350
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
Attachment 606349
Attachment 606350
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
The very nice trigger came with the bike as well as the calipers and pedals. All in good condition.
I didn't check but I'm sure I've got an 18T cog on the back but will likely swap out for a 20 or 22.
P1190943.jpg
P1190945.jpg
P1190944.jpg
P1190946.jpg
P1190947.jpg
A lot of recent activity on the forum.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
Attachment 606349
Attachment 606350
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
Spring bicycle fever must be here!
Nice to see Velocivixen back as well.
I picked up a tall Robin Hood frame recently, along with a box of assorted
useful parts.
I did a quick rebuild using a 1965 hub and wheel I had in stock.
Attachment 606349
Attachment 606350
The saddle is leather from a company called Pure City and was reasonably priced at $70.00 CDN.
The front wheel is Canadian made but will keep my eye out for a Raleigh wheel.
All bearings re-packed, new tires. The chain is used.
I'll post some better photos later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sta-Tru-26x...EAAOSwGzhaLQpj
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Looking good! I like that saddle. Looks great on a scorcher. I don't need another one, but I feel another scorcher build coming on. They're so much fun. My Rudge scorcher originally came with a Schwinn front 594 wheel, so I had to change it. I was planning on keeping the Schwinn 36H hub and installing a CR-18 rim in front and a 40H CR-18 on the nice alloy 55 AW hub that I think may be original to the bike. I bought one of these 40$ Sta-Tru 590 alloy front wheels just so I could get out and ride, but now I don't think I'll ever change it. There's nothing wrong with this wheel. I may get around to replacing the steel Endrick on the back someday. But I'm having to much fun riding it for now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sta-Tru-26x...EAAOSwGzhaLQpj
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sta-Tru-26x...EAAOSwGzhaLQpj
They fit in the British forks?
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I am eyeing something simular in the next-down frame size. If I get it, it would be the majorest, and most expensive (because a repaint), bike project I've ever undertaken. Come to think, I haven't seen any posts here declaring, "money's not a big concern, so what the heck." Maybe my affection for these bikes is me trying to make a virtue out of a necessity. If I had some deep pockets I guess I'd be hunting up an old 531 touring frame.
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I never have and still do not understand the mega-buck wheel enthusiasm. Even with much loaded touring riding, a pair of Nashbar (Nashbar!) wheels from the early 90s that hardly cost anything still run perfect on one of my bikes.
Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 04-08-18 at 08:52 AM.
Senior Member
A few other threads asked a question about these bikes that I don't think was entirely answered. With a full alloy conversion--rims, seat post, stem, handlebars, crankset, pedals, maybe brakes and levers--and plastic fenders, could the weight be brought down to 25 or 26 pounds? Asking for a friend, of course.
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,550
Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
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Some more photos.
The very nice trigger came with the bike as well as the calipers and pedals. All in good condition.
I didn't check but I'm sure I've got an 18T cog on the back but will likely swap out for a 20 or 22.
Attachment 606360
Attachment 606361
Attachment 606362
Attachment 606363
Attachment 606364
The very nice trigger came with the bike as well as the calipers and pedals. All in good condition.
I didn't check but I'm sure I've got an 18T cog on the back but will likely swap out for a 20 or 22.
Attachment 606360
Attachment 606361
Attachment 606362
Attachment 606363
Attachment 606364
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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Bikes: Diamond Back Apex, Mongoose IBOC Aluminum Road Bike, SR road bike
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Just curious if taking and older scuffed and chipped frame would be a good idea since they also sand blasted it down to bare metal first?
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I haven't had it done but I know it's considered a great way to go if it's done properly, and can be less expensive than what's now called "wet paint." Look at the beautiful two-layer powder coat job in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...t-project.html
But I will most likely require wet paint as I have in mind a particular color picked up from an automobile.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...t-project.html
But I will most likely require wet paint as I have in mind a particular color picked up from an automobile.
Senior Member
[MENTION=301310]gster[/MENTION]: lovely bike! I am jealous as all of the 3-speeds I have picked up in the past 5 years have been fun but the paint and decals never seems to come up as well as the bikes posted here.
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I am also considering the powder coat route for my Humber....how does one do decals after the coating? By that I mean how do you protect them after applying - clear coat seems wrong over powder coat.