Mr. 66

Ok an unnatural bend was detected right above the paint line when checking length one side measured 15" tip to crown, the other at 15 1/8"


Here I set the furniture clamp on a railing and used a block of appropriate thickness to isolate the spot and maintain the old raking.

both side now measure 15 1/4" from tip to crown. They have not been checked for offset.

VintageSteelEU

Another day, another opportunity to make one's life more difficult through some tinkering. Whilst I'm waiting for new spokes and for the RD-90 to soak between the steerer, expander wedge and stem and let me finish taking the frame apart, I decided to address the play I noticed in the rear hub for the bike. And of course that wouldn't be sufficient, so took the whole thing apart, cleaned, regreased and put new bearing balls in. The only problem is that the marine grease I use is fairly viscous and I discovered the hub after the overhaul doesn't spin quite as nice as it did before. I mean it spins very well and is very smooth, but now that I know it can do better, I'm much less impressed with my marine grease. It's great for threads, but it would seem I should start using something better for thebearings. So I will have to repeat the process at some point and get into reading more about grease types and their properties. For now I got some Mobile XHP222 on its way, but I can forsee ending up with a whole pile of various grease tubs before I find something similar to original one. I wonder what Sansin used in their hubs, anyone has any idea?
I also find the hubs themselves a bit puzzling. Can't seem to be able to find a visual match on Velobase. On one hand it has the Superbe semi-gloss anodising and the build quality is really, really good, on the other hand it has a JB code (???). And the logo is mid-80's Suntour one. Oh well, maybe some more research is needed.



Complete with my Professional Grease Application Tools

Mr. 66

Ok the Urago fork is done. From the last picture I did sweep forward and this is where I stop.

Dylansbob 

I stumbled across an early '00s Univega for a song and couldn't resist harvesting the campy mirage group. I'd only ridden this Gitane a few times since buying it as a frameset during covid. It was the first bike in 20yrs that I would buzz my finger every time I reached toshift, in spite of having dt levers on 5 other regularly ridden bikes. I'm not an STI person, so this was finally an opportunity to give it a go.

Now as soon as my hip settles down, I'll take it for a test ride.

Fredo76

Just because the dropout spacing is 126mm doesn't mean that a perfectly good 7-speed wheel will fit.



Before - not enough clearance for a 7-speed freewheel

7-speed brifters and 6-speed freewheels do not mix, so I had to do something...



the gory details



Luckily, my wife had some nearly matching fingernail polish.



I ground down the derailleur claw nut a bit too.

Now, with an additional DS axle spacer, I can get my 7-speed wheel in. Hoping for a test ride tomorrow.



Bella, my new drop-bar step-through 55cm Raleigh Super Record mixte

So now you know the gory details. As I posted elsewhere, no barfing allowed!

VintageSteelEU

That's... an unusual bike. I shall not comment on the gory details. But out of curiosity, why didn't 7 speed fit? I'm guessing, looking at these photos that the smallest sprocket was too close to the stays and the chain didn't have enough clearance? If so, you could have just removed a spacer from the NDS (if there's any between the cone and the locknut) and put it on the drive side. Or put a spacer on the drive side wide enough to have enough clearance. Granted, you would have to re-dish the wheel, but that's not much of a problem. Also, the chainline would move a bit, but again, that's not a massive issue if at all.

Fredo76

Seven speed didn't fit because it was evidently made for six-speed wheels. I couldn't even get the wheel in - the sprocket itself was too much, let alone putting a chain on it. The bumps on the stays would not allow a spacer solution without crazy wheel dish, or spreading. I went through my explanation here and elaborated on it two posts later here in another thread.

bikemig 

I've been working on what I believe to be a 70s Sekine SHR. I paid $20. The bike clearly had seen little use. It has some rust but was clearly stored indoors for most of its 50 year life. I cleaned all the rusty bits in evaporust and the drive train bits (chain, chainwheels) in my parts cleaner. evaporust is just great stuff. I'm impressed by how clean this machine is other than the rust. Before and after pictures, plus a pic of the frame cleaned up.

VintageSteelEU

I guess I'm not the only person who likes making their life more difficult

Fredo76

It would have been a show-stopper. I'm glad I had the courage.

VintageSteelEU

It was very brave indeed to nick your better half's nail varnish. There could've been terrifying consequences

Which reminds me I need to look for teal / aqua / turquoise coloured one tomorrow!

Mr. 66

I've decided the theme song for this monstrosity is:

Green Manilishi

Now, when the day goes to sleep
And the full moon looks
The night is so black that the darkness cooks

Don't you come creepin' around
Makin' me do things I don't wanna do

Can't believe that you need my love so bad
Come sneakin' around tryin' to drive me mad
Bustin' in on my dreams
Makin' me see things I don't wanna see

'Cause you're da Green Manalishi with the two prong crown
All my tryin' is up, all your bringin' is down

Just takin' my love then slippin' away
Leavin' me here just tryin' to keep from followin' you


Some Mafac Dural Forge and Atom 700 with the red dot
The brakes have cleeaned up better than I thought

thumpism 

I've done that on a couple of bikes but neither frame was of the highest quality so my pain was not great.

SJX426 

@Mr. 66 - Here is how I bent my fork: Bent fork with 531c tubing - Reset to proper dimensions? - Bike Forums

Did two things to one bike in the last couple of days.
The bike is the Bottecchia.
First was to add decals which I have had for several years. The DT one wasn't placed well but I have a solution in the works.
Before:
P1040289 on Flickr

I had install some goofy fenders thinking I would use it in the rain so this is with the decals and the fenders.
Bottecchia with decals on Flickr

Today I removed the fenders.
73Bott14 on Flickr

bikemig 

I've been having fun with a $20 Sekine SHR I picked up earlier this month. I cleaned up all the rusty bits in evaporust. I've now I've overhauled the bottom bracket and hubs. The freewheel came off easily and I oiled it up before greasing the hub shell.

The stem was frozen when I bought the bike (which is why I bought it at $20). I had planned to wrestle the stem out but I can't really get any PB blaster into the top of the steering column area as the top nut won't move too far up as the stem has nice cast bulge. There are other ways to get a stuck stem out but I figure the game isn't worth the candle. Everything else is going together nicely. The bearing surfaces are nice and smooth and the parts are in terrific shape. The bike came to me with pretty nice tires that aren't dry rotted and the tubes hold air. It must have been left out for a while which is why it rusted a bit and then stored indoors for the better part of 50 years. I reckon this bike had more rust than it did miles when I bought it.

JaccoW

I started on the front dynamo wheel for the 1965 Gazelle A. Getting all the right parts has been (and still is) a bit of an issue but that's half the fun.
The wheel has been laced but it seems I will need to order a dedicated spoke nipple wrench for these wheels.

So, I built these wheels with 13G Sapim Leader spokes which are your classic stainless steel straight spokes in a 2.3mm thickness. Pretty much how these bikes are usually built.
Now the problem is these spokes use larger spoke nipples. No surprises there. But it turns out none of my spoke wrenches work on these.

I have the Park Tools SW-40 4--sided spoke wrench (3.23mm), the SW-1 (3.30mm) and the SW-2 (3.45mm) but of course these use 4.0 to 4.2mm spoke nipples. The SW-3 (3.96mm) comes closest but I enjoy the much better grip that the SW-40 offers.
And let me tell you that trying to build a wheel using a Knipex pliers wrench is... not a great idea. I will spare you the gory details of rounded, stripped and exploded spoke nipples.

So I'm ordering this beefy boy:


That being said, it's going to be one sexy little wheel. Pretty much indestructible once I'm done.
I used some painters tape coated paper squares to keep the spokes from slipping out (which they did quite often) and an awl to slide them into place and remove the paper afterwards.

merziac

I have a good friend that has used a 4in. Crescent wrench since we were in high school.

I have used them in a pinch and they can get very good purchase on the nipple.

Mad Honk 

Today I got to work on my own bike. Thanks to jdawginsc and SwimmerMike this Ciocc came into my stable. It has new powder coat and decals so it looks pretty clean now. I added a set of wheels with Torelli rims and test fit a set of bars. I am liking this one so much it will displace a Raleigh I picked up at a scrapyard for $6. I'm still not sure how to dispose of the Raleigh whether it leaves with the Record group or as just a frame. I am open to responses by PM. Pics of todays work:

A new look for this bike, new rims and tires. and Giro bars and Cinelli stem.

Torelli rims I picked up at the local Co-Op and built on Campy LF hubs.

This Raleigh is leaving. It is a '77 Competition GS as near as I can find out. It had been painted by Keith Anderson before I got it and it had no decal set. This bike is a 55cm that is slightly too large for me so it is leaving the stable.
Smiles, MH

VintageSteelEU

You've got mudguard eyelets though. If you're looking for decent full length mudguards that will not look out of place on V&C bicycle and not cost much, Bluemels basic ones in 35mm are pretty good, they wrap around the tyres nicely. Just make sure you get the current model, not some older stock, older version has old school mounting clamps for the struts and that's annoying. I like the black ones (very sleek), but they also make them in silver.

For me it seems like now is the time for hubs and wheels. Yesterday I was giving Mobile XHP 222 a try, cleaning marine grease (Red&Tacky) from the rear Superbe hub and packing it with XHP222. Well, it's a bit less tacky than Red&Tacky, so I guess I will be calling it Blue&Tacky now. Don't see that much of the difference, but since I'm not far from finishing the tub of the red one, I will switch to the blue stuff when it happens. The hub feels smooth, but still not as smooth as with the white stuff that was in there originally. Anyone knows what type of grease Suntour / Sansin might have been using for the hubs?
Another hub to overhaul was Shimano HB-6207 I got recently. it went from this:


To this:


It got new bearing balls as well, since the old ones were less than perfect. And I repacked it with marine grease, since it's for the bicycle that gets used on rainy days. Yes, I have also replaced QR axle with a solid one and removed some washers to get the OLD closer to the French standard. Not that the track nuts are going to prevent possible theft of wheels, but it will always take just a bit longer to remove them, so I like thinking it might make some tiny difference.

The next thing was completing the front wheel for the Superbe bike. I got Panaracer Race C Evo4 700x26c tires for it. A combo of Continental high pressure rim tape, Michelin AirComp inner tubes and the tyre weighs around 295g, if anyone was interested. That's less than some tyres alone, so I'm quite happy with that. I like the look of them too. Let's hope they are nice to ride as well.
I figured out that the rims I have are Ambrosio 19 Extra Elite. I've seen some posts here and elsewhere saying they are difficult to get tyres on (especially kevlar bead, like Race C Evo4). Well, no problems whatsoever. Honestly, walk in a park, especially compared with Exal XR2 (3 steel levers required, as well as around an hour to spare when removing the tyre and putting it on).



And finally, still managed to find some time to lace another rear wheel. Maillard hub, early 80's and unknown mid-80's rim. Truing and tensioning tomorrow but at least it's partly ready.

RCMoeur 

Yesterday, I really wanted to be working on my bikes, but unfortunately a blown back yard ball valve needed my attention. Easy plumbing, except for having to chip away some chunks o' concrete to get down to clean PVC.



Looking forward to some drivetrain experimentation today. Not too long until it gets really hot...

SJX426 

@Vintagesteeeu - I was on there site yesterday looking at the options. May pull the trigger.
The ones theat were on there work really well for race bike geometry
Masi/Crud Catcher - Rear Fender line post mod on Flickr

Bianchigirll 

No actual wrenching but I got my Sister to help me with a small project on her Cricket

VintageSteelEU

I think what I got was a set of their basic black mudguards in 35mm width, which I believe is the most narrow set they make. I use it on a bicycle with 700x28c tyres and they were easy to adjust, the struts have nice covers that don't get lost like the traditional tips tend to. Sure, there's more fancy stuff out there. Dia Compe seems to be making nice alu sets, Gilles Berthoud makes nice steel sets (and I like their mounting system for the front mudguard, at least in the photos, as it's similar to what I do - mount it inside the head tube), but these are typically twice the price, if not more.

bikamper

I know the background is busy. There is a lot going on in my garage. I'm just about finished prepping this Raleigh Sports Bitsa for this years Lake Pepin 3 Speed Tour.


I'd like to scrounge a vintage tail lamp to compliment the big assed Berec lamp up front but that may strain the GVW of the frame.

VintageSteelEU

I had a similar style, creme-plastic articulated taillight, but it sold months ago. I think it was Berec, of the flat variety, taking old fashioned, 3LR12 battery. But perhaps this would help: Berec Tailight
I'm not the seller and don't know the seller, btw.