unworthy1

I gotcha, I like to make my own homebrew chainguards from otherwise trashworthy rings, but i usually use bigger donors (like the common 52t or 53t).
I know this might be too much grinding but I have a free 48t in 110BCD for ya, but it's black-painted STEEL.
If that doesn't scare you off, just PM me

BTW, my process (thanks to trial and error) with alloy rings is to first break off as much of the teeth as practical with the aid of a vise-grip.
It's often the case you can get most to break "pretty cleanly" and that really cuts down on how long you have to spend on the bench grinder!

mountaindave 

That's a very kind offer, but I will shoot for un-colored alloy. I'm going for silver, and aluminum is easier to grind. And I wouldn't hesitate to use a 52t ring - other than hammerheads, who uses that size anyway! Mine is protecting a 44t ring.

Re technique: I tried just what you described. Last time but couldn't get the teeth to break, so I just used the grinder. Anyway, it didn't take too terribly long. (Maybe a softer alloy?) Not something I would want to do on a regular basis, but for my wife, worth it.

nlerner

I use a bolt cutter to trim the teeth down before moving to the grinder. @mountaindave, I might have that ring, but am out of town until Sunday, so I can check then if you still need it.

mountaindave 

I haven’t heard of that technique yet, and I have a bolt cutter, so I’ll give it a whirl.

I’m not in a rush, @nlerner so if you end up finding a silver one, that would be fantastic.

JohnDThompson 

A word of caution: aluminum will clog the grinding stone and can cause it to overheat and potentially shatter. You don't want to be anywhere near when that happens! If you haven't already, re-dress the wheel with a dressing tool to remove the clogged surface and expose fresh stone.
If you have a belt sander, you can use that to remove the teeth and simply change the belt when it becomes clogged.

SurferRosa

Good thing this isn't the amateur dentistry forum.

nlerner

That accounts for my winning smile.

unworthy1

"A word of caution: aluminum will clog the grinding stone and can cause it to overheat and potentially shatter. You don't want to be anywhere near when that happens! If you haven't already, re-dress the wheel with a dressing tool to remove the clogged surface and expose fresh stone."
I have heard the cautions about just that for many years (probably first time from a shop teacher in Junior High) so thanks to JDT for the reminder: he's right of course.

Nevertheless I don't always follow good advice (such as I often grind ALU on a carbide bench grinder wheel) and one day that's going to catch up!

But I DO have a wheel dresser (just like the blue handle number JDT pictured) and I DO use it...if you play fast and loose you should at least dress your grinder wheels. Or use a sanding belt as he suggests, they cut nearly every bit as fast as a wheel, better in some cases! And I'd add: use eye protection (always) and leather gloves, too.

unworthy1

WTB or WTT: a "Blackburn" style caliper-mount "strap" for oldskool rear rack(s)
I admit to being a "hoarder" of certain items. One being: I save up rear racks to add them to most every the bikes I build up for others.

I usually find and keep around some older 'classic' Blackburns (or imitations) that frequently have lost all or most of their mounting hardware.

I can find long aftermarket stainless 'straps' for the racks that need two (L&R) with a twisted end that bolts to braze-on boss (if you got those) or P-clamps (if you don't)...but no luck finding the center-only single 'strap' that bolts to the brake-bridge hole.

Something like what comes with this "Axiom" brand current rack, but hardware is not sold alone, AFAIK.


I'm looking for one or more, in good condition, I like them because they are stainless steel and have a clean slot and hole. Plus they are correct width for the racks that have a channel, and require nothing more than bending to get all correctly aligned.
If I went to fabricating my own I'd probably have to use inferior aluminum stock and could not make as nice a nice slot, just drill and de-burr some regular holes...plus I don't need that extra work!

Anybody got a small stash of these? Or a link to where they are still sold?

I have plenty of stuff to trade but happy to spend reasonable $ if I have to

Vintage_Cyclist

https://velo-orange.com/collections/...cts/rack-strut

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks

unworthy1

Thanks for the links, appreciated!
I think the Rivendell "diving board" is closest to what I want, but for $20 I may just "frankenbike" one of the incorrect side struts I have onhand

curbtender

You see that big pile of racks at the Fairfax swap? Roy was giving away a lot of stuff.

mountaindave 

Last drift, I promise!

unworthy1

The Marin MTB Museum swap? I had to miss the last one due to a conflict, but will be watching for these bits of rack hardware at the next Bay Area swap that comes up.
There was a shocking lack of racks and bits found at my last visit to Waterside Workshop in Berkeley (who usually have what I'm looking for) so could be they have all migrated to Marin (the Rack Pack HQ of Cali?)

SurferRosa

Isn't it about time for @nlerner to get the message and upload an appropriate avatar? I even cropped it for him.

MooneyBloke

Funny that I alluded to LSoH earlier at my food co-op. (Spoke of my stomach at that time as saying "Feed me Seymour.") Obviously this is a LSoH day.

rjhammett

The part I am looking for isn't C&V but I have plenty of C&V parts to trade. I am looking for the rear derailleur shift cable adjuster for a 10 speed Campy Veloce derailleur. I could buy a new one but it would cost nearly as much as I paid for the complete groupset.

oneclick 

Either you got a great bargain or you are not looking hard enough -

https://branfordbike.com/rear-der-pa...railleur-parts

E1 - adjuster for 8/8s Veloce - 12.88

rjhammett

Thanks for the link since I now know the exact part number I need. I did get the groupset for a pittance. Once you add in the shipping and tax it is more than half of what I paid for the whole groupset. I have a ton of C&V bike components I am in the process of selling off that is why I am looking for a trade if possible.

unworthy1

I've had the same bit (E1 - adjuster) break on a couple RDs before.
At least some versions seem to be cast metal and of a soft alloy to boot!
Bad choices, Campy!

curbtender

Digging through a BOC I picked up for a bottom bracket a friend needed and ran across this. It has a sleeve with a c-clip so I'm not sure it is the same. 9 speed Chorus.

rjhammett

Supposedly there is a difference between 9 speed and 10 speed adjusters according to the Campy site. Thanks for checking for me.

Andy_K 

I have a Campy Centaur derailleur that came to me with the same part broken. I found that it had the same threading as the equivalent part on a differently broken Shimano derailleur that I had on the shelf. If you have anything else sitting around, I'd suggest trying a mix-and-match to see if you can find anything that fits.

Vintage_Cyclist

Coincidentally had this cross my field of vision on FleaBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22424931682...8AAOSwBPZfvj8y

unworthy1

Thanks^
and price isn't bad even with shipping