Resto-mod ideas for a 1930's frame.... ???
#26
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#27
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#28
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Yes I will at the end of the day do what I want on the bike, but it is still good to get extra ideas from those who have been there and done that!!! Nice bike mate. I love the drilled chainwheel.... I have that on my list.
#30
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It has no front brakes at all from the factory so I would want something up front to be able to stop better. Part of it is the usability and part is the look for sure. Got to draw and crowd when parked otherwise why bother!
#31
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I want LOTS of highly polished aluminium so I am thinking of this chainwheel and cranks.... 42 Campagnolo...
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#33
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Aluminium mustache bars, not sure which way up yet! With reverse levers and internal cables to the brake calipers....
#34
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Cinelli XA stem.... Campagnolo, Grand Sport pedals, alloy headset, full length tight fitting fenders over 28 40mm tyres in white....
Lots of highly polished alloy, but no carbon fibre.....
Lots of highly polished alloy, but no carbon fibre.....
#36
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This. And also the issue of the fork not being made for stress of disc brakes. It's just a bad idea unless you're determined to change the frame/fork a lot with brazing/welding.
OTOH, I've got this totally great Idea of converting a 1899 or earlier frame to 11-speed Dura Ace. Anyone have a a 120-year-old Iver or Columbia or something (in 24") they want to send my way?
OTOH, I've got this totally great Idea of converting a 1899 or earlier frame to 11-speed Dura Ace. Anyone have a a 120-year-old Iver or Columbia or something (in 24") they want to send my way?
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#37
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Using the TRP Spyre flat mount mechanical disc brake calipers on the rear and putting two holes through the frame and brazing in two tubes through. The front I might use the pedestal mounted caliper and braze on two tubular thread mounts I would turn up in the lathe.... with tapering bracing either side to spread out the force over a larger area.
Last edited by agustanz; 01-25-20 at 02:10 AM.
#38
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This. And also the issue of the fork not being made for stress of disc brakes. It's just a bad idea unless you're determined to change the frame/fork a lot with brazing/welding.
OTOH, I've got this totally great Idea of converting a 1899 or earlier frame to 11-speed Dura Ace. Anyone have a a 120-year-old Iver or Columbia or something (in 24") they want to send my way?
OTOH, I've got this totally great Idea of converting a 1899 or earlier frame to 11-speed Dura Ace. Anyone have a a 120-year-old Iver or Columbia or something (in 24") they want to send my way?
Sorry can't help with anything as early as 1899.... my earliest is only 1902.
#39
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So it's an 'anything goes' mishmash kind of thing. Carry on. I shouldn't be commenting on anything regarding upright bikes since I have no experience with them since my Sting Ray back in 1971 or so.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#40
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I'll throw in my two cents against disc brakes. I've been jealous of you and others building up these old path racers!
I think you should buy a Di2 Nexus coaster brake hub and run a front drum brake. I've wanted a Pashley Guv'nor and think they're cool.
But I'll enjoy watching the build up with discs as well
I think you should buy a Di2 Nexus coaster brake hub and run a front drum brake. I've wanted a Pashley Guv'nor and think they're cool.
But I'll enjoy watching the build up with discs as well
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#41
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Just a word of warning, this stem comes in two bar clamp diameters: 26.0 and 26.4. The 26.4 is proprietary Cinelli clamp diameter so you'd need to find Cinelli (or other compatible Italian) bars. Those Nitto bars are either 25.4 or 26.0. Just pay attention to what you're buying or you'll end up with a stem that doesn't fit your bars!! I would suggest a Nitto Crystem or Nitto Dynamic if you can't find the Cinelli XA in the right length with the proper clamp diameter. They have a little of the Cinelli XA look but without the hassle.
It's also less hassle to use a drum brake on the rear, and you probably won't notice the difference in braking power on the rear, and the "rear-drum, front-disc" combo is something many motorcycles and cars did for some time, but it sounds like you've got your heart set on disc brakes. I'm interested to see the fabrication and brazing job! I do little things to old frames sometimes too.
It's also less hassle to use a drum brake on the rear, and you probably won't notice the difference in braking power on the rear, and the "rear-drum, front-disc" combo is something many motorcycles and cars did for some time, but it sounds like you've got your heart set on disc brakes. I'm interested to see the fabrication and brazing job! I do little things to old frames sometimes too.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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#42
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I'll throw in my two cents against disc brakes. I've been jealous of you and others building up these old path racers!
I think you should buy a Di2 Nexus coaster brake hub and run a front drum brake. I've wanted a Pashley Guv'nor and think they're cool.
But I'll enjoy watching the build up with discs as well
I think you should buy a Di2 Nexus coaster brake hub and run a front drum brake. I've wanted a Pashley Guv'nor and think they're cool.
But I'll enjoy watching the build up with discs as well
#43
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Just a word of warning, this stem comes in two bar clamp diameters: 26.0 and 26.4. The 26.4 is proprietary Cinelli clamp diameter so you'd need to find Cinelli (or other compatible Italian) bars. Those Nitto bars are either 25.4 or 26.0. Just pay attention to what you're buying or you'll end up with a stem that doesn't fit your bars!! I would suggest a Nitto Crystem or Nitto Dynamic if you can't find the Cinelli XA in the right length with the proper clamp diameter. They have a little of the Cinelli XA look but without the hassle.
It's also less hassle to use a drum brake on the rear, and you probably won't notice the difference in braking power on the rear, and the "rear-drum, front-disc" combo is something many motorcycles and cars did for some time, but it sounds like you've got your heart set on disc brakes. I'm interested to see the fabrication and brazing job! I do little things to old frames sometimes too.
It's also less hassle to use a drum brake on the rear, and you probably won't notice the difference in braking power on the rear, and the "rear-drum, front-disc" combo is something many motorcycles and cars did for some time, but it sounds like you've got your heart set on disc brakes. I'm interested to see the fabrication and brazing job! I do little things to old frames sometimes too.
I have gone down the rabbit hole googling those Nitto stems and quite like them!
#44
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I wouldn't call this a resto-mod but sort of followed what an early 1900's raw and robust racer would be and to experience the feel without spending much. Very easy to make and super cheap.
Started with a 1966 Schwinn 'Racer' upright 3 speed and converted to a 700c (28 in.) fixed gear.
Started with a 1966 Schwinn 'Racer' upright 3 speed and converted to a 700c (28 in.) fixed gear.
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#45
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That looks more like a 48T or 50T, if that matters.
#46
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What is the reason this project requires an original 1930s frame? Which feature is desired?
I would definitely want modern tires. Were this to be a rider would be very choosy about finding a 1930s frame that would allow good brakes. Of course w/o resorting to discs. Why would such a thing be desirable? Will this 1930s frame be refitted with through axles and the dropouts for such? 1930s will likely have a 110mm rear fork, coaster brake would go right in.
Recently had an incident where my modern production DL-1 retro-fitted with cantis handled a panic stop in the rain with no panic. Riding companion with Dura Ace hydraulics slid out of control. 66 degree seat angle and wide soft tires had a lot to do with that. Discs would not have helped. No help was needed. Just cheap Tektro Oryx from 2005 beat best discs available.
I would definitely want modern tires. Were this to be a rider would be very choosy about finding a 1930s frame that would allow good brakes. Of course w/o resorting to discs. Why would such a thing be desirable? Will this 1930s frame be refitted with through axles and the dropouts for such? 1930s will likely have a 110mm rear fork, coaster brake would go right in.
Recently had an incident where my modern production DL-1 retro-fitted with cantis handled a panic stop in the rain with no panic. Riding companion with Dura Ace hydraulics slid out of control. 66 degree seat angle and wide soft tires had a lot to do with that. Discs would not have helped. No help was needed. Just cheap Tektro Oryx from 2005 beat best discs available.
#47
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I wouldn't call this a resto-mod but sort of followed what an early 1900's raw and robust racer would be and to experience the feel without spending much. Very easy to make and super cheap.
Started with a 1966 Schwinn 'Racer' upright 3 speed and converted to a 700c (28 in.) fixed gear.
Started with a 1966 Schwinn 'Racer' upright 3 speed and converted to a 700c (28 in.) fixed gear.
#48
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#49
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What is the reason this project requires an original 1930s frame? Which feature is desired?
I would definitely want modern tires. Were this to be a rider would be very choosy about finding a 1930s frame that would allow good brakes. Of course w/o resorting to discs. Why would such a thing be desirable? Will this 1930s frame be refitted with through axles and the dropouts for such? 1930s will likely have a 110mm rear fork, coaster brake would go right in.
Recently had an incident where my modern production DL-1 retro-fitted with cantis handled a panic stop in the rain with no panic. Riding companion with Dura Ace hydraulics slid out of control. 66 degree seat angle and wide soft tires had a lot to do with that. Discs would not have helped. No help was needed. Just cheap Tektro Oryx from 2005 beat best discs available.
I would definitely want modern tires. Were this to be a rider would be very choosy about finding a 1930s frame that would allow good brakes. Of course w/o resorting to discs. Why would such a thing be desirable? Will this 1930s frame be refitted with through axles and the dropouts for such? 1930s will likely have a 110mm rear fork, coaster brake would go right in.
Recently had an incident where my modern production DL-1 retro-fitted with cantis handled a panic stop in the rain with no panic. Riding companion with Dura Ace hydraulics slid out of control. 66 degree seat angle and wide soft tires had a lot to do with that. Discs would not have helped. No help was needed. Just cheap Tektro Oryx from 2005 beat best discs available.
#50
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Here is a picture of the type of frame and forks I will be using.... (not the actual ones)......