revchuck 

I used my 500 for about four years until the buttons stopped working and replaced it with the 520. I like the 520 better, especially the display. My 520 does have a glitch - it doesn't want to stay paired with my iPhone 5s, so I have to download rides directly like I did with the 500. Consequently, I can't comment on battery life since it's recharged every time I ride.

A propos battery life being affected by how often the unit is charged, I ride 5-6 days/week so the 500's battery was charged about 1k times. Rides lasted up to six hours and I always had a good bit of charge left.

globecanvas

My 520 doesn't like to stay paired either but all I have to do is open the Garmin app on the phone and it will sync.

520 is superior to 500 in most ways, including little things like being able to show 3 fields the same size as opposed to big/small/small.

revchuck 

GC - Thanks for the tip, I'll try this.

dz_nuzz

That is something that I actually miss from the older Garmins. I like having a "major" field and then "minor" ones. It makes it easier for me to pick out in a quick glance.

mike868y

thanks for this! sounds like they are at least as good as the old corsas, which is good enough for me. i'm going to order a few.

topflightpro

My wife has had the same issue with her 520. It used to pair with her computer automatically, but now it does not.

Still, she likes the 520 better than her 500, which died after about 6 years of use and a big crash.

happybday29475

In an inexplicable, surprising, and non-injurious way, my fork has failed and I need a replacement. (For warranty/legal reasons, I don't want to go into "how" in these forums just yet).

In replacing a high-end stock fork, how does one choose between a manufacturer's fork, an Enve, 3T, or other carbon fiber fork? Other than size/rake, are there appreciable differences in handling/stiffness/whatever?

echappist

The 520 disables auto-zero, which is nice in most cases

otoh, i realized that my offset drifted by 10w or so on a climb. That said, the climb gained 2k ft in 4 miles, so that may have thrown it off...

spectastic

So pairing wireless issue. Is opening the garmin connect app the resolution for this, or is it more random? I dont need access to text messages, strava segments, weather reports, or live tracking, because my phone has no data.. wifi only. So im really only worried about wireless syncing of activities and loading courses. So long as that works well, illl be happy.

How are the ftp estimation and vo2 max functions?

mattm

I thought it was just me.. annoying having to open the app just to get it to sync - but still 101% better than having to plug in the device via USB to upload!

Doge

Yes - teammate - and broke it. But then he also broke his name brand frame too..

jsk

I'm not sure how the blue-tooth sync would work if you don't have data connection, pretty sure it needs a live connection as opposed to storing the workout on the phone and then uploading it later via wi-fi. I'll admit I haven't tried that, though.

You might be better off skipping the bluetooth connection to the phone. You can set up the Garmin to upload via wi-fi when you get home without having to go through the phone.

ancker

So null response then...

dz_nuzz

That only works if he has an Edge 1000 (no other unit has Wifi)

Doge

I don't think so. My point was however that there was some other stress going on. It was not riding along and snap. It was riding (Paris Roubaix).
I would be surprised if the Ritchey WCS bars would break when a frame breaks. There are many more situations that break frames than I see breaking bars. Those are the only bars that come to mind that I know of being broken. I also know he replaced them with name brand bars.

jsk

Oops, my bad. I thought all the models that had bluetooth also had wi-fi.

jsk

I have a set of the Corsa Speed G+ on my road bike right now. I'm running them tubeless, which was part of the appeal for me. Even if Vittoria's marketing hype is only a little bit true, the new G+ should be at least a little better in rolling resistance and puncture resistance than the outgoing models. Road feel and grip seem excellent, too early to make any judgments about tread life or puncture resistance.

I will say the Corsa Speed's are not the most convenient for tubeless use. Like the Schwalbe Pro One's, they are "tubeless ready", which means the bead is designed to work tubeless but they don't have a butyl lining so they won't hold air without sealant (this is actually a good thing, since both those tires represent improvements in weight and rolling resistance over previous tubeless tires precisely because of this). I didn't have a hard time getting the Corsa Speed's mounted on the rims, but it did take several tries with CO2 to get the bead seated, something that hasn't been an issue with other tires for me. They also don't hold air very well even with sealant; I'd say they lose air a bit more quickly than latex tubes, definitely not as a good as other tubeless tires. But that's a relatively minor inconvenience I'm willing to live with if the performance is there, which seems to be the case.

The tires are marked 23mm, but run a mm or so narrower that most other modern 23c tires (which to be fair should actually be labeled 25c).

spectastic

What i did yesterday with the 510 was i saved the ride. Got home, where was wifi, looked up 'today's ride' and uploaded manually, without any wires.

The Bluetooth was turned off throughout the ride to conserve energy. When i turned it on, it linked to my phone right away, and started syncing. It uploaded about 30 of healthpack's rides onto my strava before i realized something was wrong

globecanvas

I need a new tubular tire and all the shop has in stock for tubulars are Schwalbe One 24s and Michelin Pro 4 25s. I have run the Schwalbes before and they are OK but I don't love them. I do love the Specialized Allrounds but they are out of stock. Any tubular-specific advice on the Schwalbes vs the Michelins?

tetonrider

i have some tired in my garage i could send to you pretty easily if it helps you out. overnight or 2-day is super cheap for me.

i'll check on what i've got and get back to you. i probably have some specialized allrounds and vittorias, at a minimum. both are >> than the michelins IME. the schwalbe ones no longer have latex tubes (unless they are NOS), so i'd avoid.

tetonrider

ok--here's what i've got that might be of interesting to you:
* vittoria corsa evo cx iii 700x23 (tire i race the most)
* specialized allround 700x24
* zipp tangente SLspeed 700x24 (really supple; i haven't raced them, though)

next day shipping to a sample zip of 12561 is literally <=$12 for me.

no big deal here--they're in my garage and i will use them, eventually, but if it helps you out it's fine. i'd probably rather sell them as a pair, though.

globecanvas

emailed you -- thanks!

jdms mvp

sorry not sorry

carpediemracing 

When I got my two Tsunamis I had to select a fork. At first it was easy - I took a fork (Reynolds Ouzo, not top tier) that I already had on another bike. Then I needed to select a fork for the second frame, then I wanted to get a nice fork for the first frame when I had it redone.

I basically Googled/researched feedback from other riders. For me I didn't want any flexible fork, like the Giant TCR forks I had. The axle would move back 1-2 INCHES when I pushed forward on the bars while using the front brake. It was super scary, hence I had a Reynolds Ouzo fork on that bike. (The newer less-aero looking TCR forks seem fine as I used one for a couple years).

The most significant thing for me is lateral stiffness. I know the frame has a lot to do with how the bike feels in a corner but if you have a flexy fork then the bike is much less planted in a turn.

Finally, the super light forks usually have a thinner steerer tube. Forks are life carrying components, unlike, say, a front derailleur, so I tend to shy away from the lightest forks. Plus they cost so much more. For me 300g basically indicated that I wouldn't trust the fork.

All said I chose the 3T team (about 335g) and 2nd tier ENVE 2.0 (about 350g). Apparently ENVE has discontinued the lighter 1.0, so that was interesting. Both forks work well for me. I don't have two identical frames and I haven't ridden the same frame with the different forks so I can't say one is better than the other. For handling I lean towards the 3T, although that may be the frame talking to me.

happybday29475

Thank you @carpediemracing.

I did a bit of research too, but didn't find too much info. I ended buying the Enve 2.0 fork, mostly based on brand. It gets here in a couple of days.

The story: I was driving down a 2 lane highway going about 70 when an on-coming semi passed and blew my bike off of my fork-mounted roof rack.

I think the bike came off because there was a strong sideways component to the force that put all of the pressure initially on just the left fork. The bike was properly attached by the fork mount. The bike was held on the roof by the rear wheel strap. However the fork was damaged: both lawyer tabs were sheared off, and, it's impossible to tell, but I suspect the actual dropouts also suffered damage; hence the need for a new fork.

The bike manufacturer claims that bikes are not waranteed for transport.

A number of folks around here say that they've heard enough similar stories that they never use roof racks. Obviously I'm now in that camp.

I also think that I got off pretty lightly...$400 for a new fork, when the bike could have easily been totaled.