carpediemracing 

I recall you posting about this.

Re: fork, in a different forum I learned about the end of the 1.0. Apparently the thinner steerer is what made it lighter. The 2.0 was really what worked best all-round.

Not only that there was a ex-Reynolds engineer that piped up. I always thought my Reynolds Ouzo (not their best one) was pretty stiff, but I had no basis for comparison. The engineer guy said that the stiffest fork Reynolds made was the one I have, with the aluminum crown and dropouts. I think someone compared them to some other forks (some lateral movement measurement). It was nice to have my anecdotal thoughts verified.

echappist

Does anyone know of an insulated water bottle with capacity greater than 25 oz? All the ones i've come across (Polar, Camelbak, and Zefal) are limited to 24-25oz. Alternatively, anyone know if there are custom made bottles out there that may be made insulating?

spdntrxi

I use a Elite Nanogelite bottle.. it's 650ml which is about 22oz. It puts polar, camelback and the rest to shame keeping stuff cold. I usually carry one 650ml and 1 500ml nanogelite. Only drawback to them is they can be a pain to keep clean.. rinse them right away especially if you add electrolytes. Well they are kind of pricey too.

25+... I have no idea. hiking types maybe but may not fit bikes

caloso

Has anyone had any issues using 10-speed chainrings on an 11-speed system? Lennard Zinn says there should be no problem but was curious if there's been any real-world issues here.

Wylde06

Havent had any issues on my caad12. 11 speed with 10 speed sram/quarq rings

mike868y

I'm looking at buying a used cx frame and although the TT is about 4.5cm larger than my current road bike, the STA is about 2 degrees smaller. I did some math (seat height ~65cm) and figure that (I run a setback post on my road bike but would not on this frame) combined with a 2cm shorter stem and less drop because it's a cx bike would put the bars in just about the right position. Am I missing something here or does this make sense?

caloso

That's exactly the set-up I have (or will have as soon as the LBS installs the Praxis BB). Thanks.

globecanvas

That may put the bars in the right position relative to the saddle, but the overall BB-saddle-bars triangle will be rotated forward quite a bit, like a TT fit. In other words the saddle will be too far forward over the BB.

It seems like a useful rule of thumb not to try to compensate for the wrong size frame by moving other stuff around.

mike868y

based on my math it'll be almost exactly in the same position. i use a setback post on my current bike. if saddle height and setback post stayed the same the smaller STA would put the saddle too far back by about 2.2cm, but if I run a 0 setback post it should put it in just about the same position.

caloso

Makes sense to me.

grolby

Stack and reach calculator

globecanvas

OK, if the seat tube is 2 degrees slacker, with a 62 cm seat tube length (just picking a number), that will put the saddle 2cm further back, which I admit is more than I expected for 2 degrees change. So moving the saddle forward 2cm via a zero setback post will put it back in the original position.

I still seems not ideal though. It's a cross bike so the top tube is somewhere close to level. Can you even stand over a bike that's 4.5 cm bigger? Or is the new frame weirdly long and low, or the old bike short and tall? What length stem are you running now, that you can go 2cm shorter without getting into MTB stem territory?

globecanvas

BTW a teammate, who is probably about 5'5, rides a way too big CX frame, like maybe a 56, because he really wanted a Richard Sachs and he could only afford a used one and that was all he could find. He is a very good cross racer and he makes it work but I have to say it looks really wrong, and everybody he meets feels the need to comment on it.

mike868y

the new bike would be long and low and the TT is sloping (the numbers I'm looking at are effective TT, obviously) and I'd have to run a 70mm stem. wish i could compare it to my current cx bike, but it's not a stock frame and ebay ate the geo chart and the seller can't find it.

i'm probably going to pass. i want a new cx bike (current cx bike sits up very high (is that a big bb drop or a small one?) and corners like a mac truck), but i certainly don't NEED a new cx bike.

grolby

Mikey, FWIW I myself would be very hesitant to buy the bike you're considering, as I think it's too big for me.

mike868y

ugh the things I would do for an RS frame.

was waiting for you to chime in as I know you know what bike i'm talking about...but yeah, i'm going to pass. i'll keep my eye open for another frame but i'll probably be on the same bike this year. wahhh small people problems.

dz_nuzz

The new Dura Ace is an interesting refresh. I applaud them for a lot of their design decisions but it very much feels like they took a bunch of Mountain bike stuff and reworked it to be road stuff. Nothing wrong with that I am just so used to seeing really ****ty direct mount derailleurs from my bike shop days.

Creit to them for their PM design though. Sounds like they figured out a good system for preventing water ingress (Magnetic charging port, unit totally sealed). All in all I wouldn't buy anything from the new group aside from the new battery and ANT+ transmitter so that I can use their new Synchro Shift stuff. Props to them for keeping everything backwards compatible.

tetonrider

i'm kind of stoked on it because it is not really tempting at all...and given their typical product dev cycles it means another 3 years or so of 11s for shimano.

also, the backwards-compatibility of the firmware updates is pretty shocking given shimano's history. not sure i'll be using sequential shifting on the road, but it is GREAT that they are offering these features when there is little to no technical reason the older parts cannot handle it.

echappist

would you ditch srm for the shimano PM? doubt i would

mike868y

not road bike related, but I mounted some paul mini moto brakes on my cx bike and wow are they powerful. pretty excited.

jsk

How do you guys transport multiple bikes including a TT bike with rear disc? For a single bike I've always just put it in the back seat with the front wheel in the trunk, but adding a second bike poses a problem. I'm considering a tray-style hitch-mount rack to put on my wife's SUV for traveling to stage races, but some of the more popular options (Thule T2 Pro, Kuat NV 2.0) don't work with a disc wheel since they are designed to run a strap through the rim of the rear wheel.

Reading through some discussions on the topic at slowtwitch, some recommend racks that use an arm over broth the front and rear wheels, such as 1up USA or Inno. Others say it's too risky with the disc wheel, put a training wheel on for transport. I guess my question is how much wind is the wheel going to catch at highway speeds if it's mostly sheltered by the SUV? I guess it's worth mentioning my disc is HED Jet+, so we're talking fairing/cover, not solid CF.

The training wheel seems like the safe/obvious option, but would be a PITA: having to bring an extra wheel in addition to race spares for the road bike, plus swapping the wheel and handling the chain, etc. But the biggest hassle is that the Jet+ barely fits my TT frame even with 23mm tires; the wheel has to be perfectly aligned in the horizontal drop-outs to avoid tire-rub when getting out of the saddle, and getting it right can take a bit of trial and error. I'd rather not have to be messing with that right before a TT is about to start if I can avoid it.

Harlan

I run a 90mm not a disc but my method works either way:

I removed the single side of my folding rear seats to make room for the rear wheels of the two road bikes on the right side. The only thing I remove is the front wheels from those. The TT bike gets the seatpost removed as well. Plenty of room for all 7 loose wheels we had to bring (two full sets for road race chase cars, in addition to the three removed front wheels). The fork mounts are modular in that I just whip out my drill and move the wood screws to where I need them.



I have an '05 Highlander. Big beast. I should have gotten a Sienna but thus is life. I can lay down bikes with a carpet in between but if I'm going with three I get fancy.

jsk

Not sure I'd have room for that approach with an RDX along with hauling other stuff for a weekend trip. Not to mention it's my wife's (new) vehicle and she's already declared no dirty bikes inside.

globecanvas

Can you just take the wheel cover off for transport?

jsk

It's not a separately purchased cover, it's a HED Jet+ Disc and I don't think it can be removed. I just mentioned that the Jet design is not a solid CF disc, it's a lightweight skin over a AL rim so the cover portion is pretty flimsy and might be more susceptible to high wind.