For the love of English 3 speeds...
02-14-16, 11:17 AM
#9576
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Stuck cotters are such a shame. It needn't happen. 3 minutes with a file and a bench vice is all that's needed to properly fit a cotter pin. From the looks of this, how uneven the surface of the pin is, you'll never be able to drill a straight hole through it and the crank and shaft might be ruined. Might be worth cutting off a bit of a bolt and try pressing it through. Or you could clean up the surface with a round dremel grinder and center punching a clean center for drilling.
02-14-16, 11:18 AM
#9577
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02-14-16, 11:26 AM
#9578
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My friend George, from Parts Unknown on Fraser Street, here in Toronto has one of these vintage presses that REALLY works.
02-14-16, 11:52 AM
#9579
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I drilled one bad one by starting with smaller drills (less than 1/4 ") until it reached the edge of the crank, let it soak and it pushed out in one piece. Get as much metal out as you can and don't give up!
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02-14-16, 11:56 AM
#9580
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I cannot claim to be one of the 3 speed lovers but I've now put a toe in your pond. I have a strange Raleigh Sports that belongs to a friend. I'm doing some overhaul work on it during this wicked cold and, today, completed my first 3 speed IGH overhaul. I'm pretty impressed with you folks who really know these Rube-Goldbergs. I confess I still don't really know how it works but it came all apart and back together and works fine. I've learned a lot.
When I got it, the indicator spindle was broken off down in the axle - only two links of chain were attached and nothing was left outside, nothing to get a grip on. So I had to disassemble the whole shebang so I could slide the rod up, get a hold on the end and unscrew it from that pin that goes thru the axle. Of course, I then had to clean and repack all the bearings and clean and oil the rest. I got it all back together yesterday and it did not work - the cog would not turn the wheel. I took it all apart again today (while tending the wood stove) and studied the insides. I cannot describe what I found as I don't know all the part names but I found two reasons why it may have been binding and resolved them. Back together and it all works fine now. I'll visit a friend later this week who probably has a new indicator spindle. Otherwise I'll order on line. Its been fun and a real learning experience.
No photos but you all know what a 1973 SA SC3 looks like, probably have the guts memorized. I'm just a IGH noob here.
BTW: strange Raleigh Sports as it's a pretty small frame, 26 inch tires, coaster brake and no hand brakes, 1971 frame and 1973 rear hub. It looks just like a Canadian Gents Model 99 from 1954 - curved top tube and all but the S/N matches The Head Badge's 1971 pattern. I assume it was a European model brought over some time since '71. Nice bike but too small for me.
When I got it, the indicator spindle was broken off down in the axle - only two links of chain were attached and nothing was left outside, nothing to get a grip on. So I had to disassemble the whole shebang so I could slide the rod up, get a hold on the end and unscrew it from that pin that goes thru the axle. Of course, I then had to clean and repack all the bearings and clean and oil the rest. I got it all back together yesterday and it did not work - the cog would not turn the wheel. I took it all apart again today (while tending the wood stove) and studied the insides. I cannot describe what I found as I don't know all the part names but I found two reasons why it may have been binding and resolved them. Back together and it all works fine now. I'll visit a friend later this week who probably has a new indicator spindle. Otherwise I'll order on line. Its been fun and a real learning experience.
No photos but you all know what a 1973 SA SC3 looks like, probably have the guts memorized. I'm just a IGH noob here.
BTW: strange Raleigh Sports as it's a pretty small frame, 26 inch tires, coaster brake and no hand brakes, 1971 frame and 1973 rear hub. It looks just like a Canadian Gents Model 99 from 1954 - curved top tube and all but the S/N matches The Head Badge's 1971 pattern. I assume it was a European model brought over some time since '71. Nice bike but too small for me.
02-14-16, 01:41 PM
#9581
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What wheel size came on a 1956 Raleigh Sports with a dyno front wheel? Was it EA1 or 650A?
02-14-16, 02:13 PM
#9582
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02-15-16, 08:11 AM
#9584
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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02-16-16, 01:43 PM
#9585
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Yeah, I realize speed is about the rider, but that's not what I'm talking about. I guess I can say that it's not fun to ride. It's very bland....like vanilla ice cream.
I guess it's the geometry and the heavy wheels. I think I'm coming to realizations about the kind of ride I enjoy best.
I guess it's the geometry and the heavy wheels. I think I'm coming to realizations about the kind of ride I enjoy best.
I love the Tektro 559 brakes. Yes, they spoil the vintage look to the bike, but one of the Mai things I don't like about riding vintage three speeds is poor braking and fear of the dreaded shift cable maladjustment where you get between 2nd & 3rd and you're just spinning. It's happened to me despite knowing how to adjust, etc. and it's quite alarming.
If I decide to build new wheels I may get a new SA 3-speed hub so not have to worry about it.
Also, I'm a fan of the Michelins, which allow for 85 pounds in the tire. That made a big difference over the Kendas, although the ride is not as soft.
02-16-16, 01:47 PM
#9586
Senior Member
Cotterpin removers/installers.
Here's my tool for cotterpin removal.
Never failed for me.
Pretty obvious how it works.
It is actually a Ball Joint Splitter. Available from MachineMart, etc. for £7/8 a few years ago.
Slight modification on the contact point, I just drilled a slight indent to locate the pin under pressure.
It's tough enough to whack it with a hammer once it is under pressure.
Never failed for me.
Pretty obvious how it works.
It is actually a Ball Joint Splitter. Available from MachineMart, etc. for £7/8 a few years ago.
Slight modification on the contact point, I just drilled a slight indent to locate the pin under pressure.
It's tough enough to whack it with a hammer once it is under pressure.
02-16-16, 02:25 PM
#9587
Senior Member
Here's my tool for cotterpin removal.
Never failed for me.
Pretty obvious how it works.
It is actually a Ball Joint Splitter. Available from MachineMart, etc. for £7/8 a few years ago.
Slight modification on the contact point, I just drilled a slight indent to locate the pin under pressure.
It's tough enough to whack it with a hammer once it is under pressure.
Never failed for me.
Pretty obvious how it works.
It is actually a Ball Joint Splitter. Available from MachineMart, etc. for £7/8 a few years ago.
Slight modification on the contact point, I just drilled a slight indent to locate the pin under pressure.
It's tough enough to whack it with a hammer once it is under pressure.
MachineMart is not on this side of the Pond. Have yet to see anything in the Harbor/ Northern variety here. I used the chain break tool but pins bent after awhile and the adjustment space was hard to get it around some arms to align with the Cotters.
02-16-16, 02:52 PM
#9588
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Harbor Freight has something similar
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
02-16-16, 03:04 PM
#9589
Senior Member
Harbor Freight has something similar
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
That's the style. And affordable. I always thought MachineMart was an American outfit!? I live & learn still....
@3speedslow
I do have a few cool tools also, but I sold most of my kit when I moved into my small retirement apartment.... No workshop....
BB taps, head set presses, you name it. I regret it now: (
Still got some cool bikes though; )
02-16-16, 10:38 PM
#9590
Count Orlok Member
Ahhhh... yes, that makes sense. Well, I will probably run out of project$ before we run out of winter - so I guess I can pull those wheels and washer them up. The spokes did seem a bit long on that `63 Dunelt. I recall I had to grind some of them down to the nipple tops so they wouldn't protrude from the double-wall rim. I will probably have to rebuild that one with new spokes, now that I've buggered up the threads.
Well, thanks. I know it's the right thing to do. It's just kind of a faff, as they say in old Blighty.
Well, thanks. I know it's the right thing to do. It's just kind of a faff, as they say in old Blighty.
He recommends washers. I suppose the spokes could break at the bends without them.
Several people I know have built wheels without them, though, so rebuild them if you must but YMMV.
Last edited by gna; 02-16-16 at 10:47 PM.
02-16-16, 10:49 PM
#9591
Count Orlok Member
I cannot claim to be one of the 3 speed lovers but I've now put a toe in your pond. I have a strange Raleigh Sports that belongs to a friend. I'm doing some overhaul work on it during this wicked cold and, today, completed my first 3 speed IGH overhaul. I'm pretty impressed with you folks who really know these Rube-Goldbergs. I confess I still don't really know how it works but it came all apart and back together and works fine. I've learned a lot.
When I got it, the indicator spindle was broken off down in the axle - only two links of chain were attached and nothing was left outside, nothing to get a grip on. So I had to disassemble the whole shebang so I could slide the rod up, get a hold on the end and unscrew it from that pin that goes thru the axle. Of course, I then had to clean and repack all the bearings and clean and oil the rest. I got it all back together yesterday and it did not work - the cog would not turn the wheel. I took it all apart again today (while tending the wood stove) and studied the insides. I cannot describe what I found as I don't know all the part names but I found two reasons why it may have been binding and resolved them. Back together and it all works fine now. I'll visit a friend later this week who probably has a new indicator spindle. Otherwise I'll order on line. Its been fun and a real learning experience.
No photos but you all know what a 1973 SA SC3 looks like, probably have the guts memorized. I'm just a IGH noob here.
BTW: strange Raleigh Sports as it's a pretty small frame, 26 inch tires, coaster brake and no hand brakes, 1971 frame and 1973 rear hub. It looks just like a Canadian Gents Model 99 from 1954 - curved top tube and all but the S/N matches The Head Badge's 1971 pattern. I assume it was a European model brought over some time since '71. Nice bike but too small for me.
When I got it, the indicator spindle was broken off down in the axle - only two links of chain were attached and nothing was left outside, nothing to get a grip on. So I had to disassemble the whole shebang so I could slide the rod up, get a hold on the end and unscrew it from that pin that goes thru the axle. Of course, I then had to clean and repack all the bearings and clean and oil the rest. I got it all back together yesterday and it did not work - the cog would not turn the wheel. I took it all apart again today (while tending the wood stove) and studied the insides. I cannot describe what I found as I don't know all the part names but I found two reasons why it may have been binding and resolved them. Back together and it all works fine now. I'll visit a friend later this week who probably has a new indicator spindle. Otherwise I'll order on line. Its been fun and a real learning experience.
No photos but you all know what a 1973 SA SC3 looks like, probably have the guts memorized. I'm just a IGH noob here.
BTW: strange Raleigh Sports as it's a pretty small frame, 26 inch tires, coaster brake and no hand brakes, 1971 frame and 1973 rear hub. It looks just like a Canadian Gents Model 99 from 1954 - curved top tube and all but the S/N matches The Head Badge's 1971 pattern. I assume it was a European model brought over some time since '71. Nice bike but too small for me.
You have a camel back frame with the infamous coaster brake hub. I have one frame hanging in the rafters with most of its original parts, and a ladies bike all built up and working. I also have a rear wheel with an SC3 that defies all attempts to work well. That is on my back burner now. Sounds like you learned a lot though. Welcome.
Last edited by gna; 02-16-16 at 10:56 PM.
02-17-16, 02:14 AM
#9592
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
Probably read Mark Stonich's SA tips: https://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/sa-tips.pdf
He recommends washers. I suppose the spokes could break at the bends without them.
Several people I know have built wheels without them, though, so rebuild them if you must but YMMV.
He recommends washers. I suppose the spokes could break at the bends without them.
Several people I know have built wheels without them, though, so rebuild them if you must but YMMV.
I have worked on quite a few vintage SA wheels that also had spoke washers which are softer than the steel and seat the elbow on the steel flange better.
02-17-16, 10:15 AM
#9593
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I have a SA 3 speed in a steel wheel that I liberated from a ladies Schwinn.
And a loose SA too.
How to check the functionality of it before lacing to a wheel ?
Thanks.
Srinath
And a loose SA too.
How to check the functionality of it before lacing to a wheel ?
Thanks.
Srinath
02-17-16, 07:20 PM
#9594
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Thanks!! What year and country is that catalog page from? The bike I have here looks just like the DL-58. Same color, fenders, rack, bars, hockey stick. 18 inch ST and 26 in tires. This hockey stick says Sport vs Colt. Could easily have been changed along the way. I may be mistaken about the front brake. Just cuz it's not there now does not mean it never was. I don't see clear signs that a lever was clamped to the bar but I checked this afternoon and it does look like there was a caliper there on the fork at one time - paint scratched around both holes. The bike here is no jewel. Mostly working on it to learn a few things - waiting for spring.
02-17-16, 08:17 PM
#9595
Count Orlok Member
Thanks!! What year and country is that catalog page from? The bike I have here looks just like the DL-58. Same color, fenders, rack, bars, hockey stick. 18 inch ST and 26 in tires. This hockey stick says Sport vs Colt. Could easily have been changed along the way. I may be mistaken about the front brake. Just cuz it's not there now does not mean it never was. I don't see clear signs that a lever was clamped to the bar but I checked this afternoon and it does look like there was a caliper there on the fork at one time - paint scratched around both holes. The bike here is no jewel. Mostly working on it to learn a few things - waiting for spring.
from www.bulgier.net - /pics/bike/Catalogs/Raleigh74/
02-20-16, 07:33 PM
#9596
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I almost came home with a late-'50s Hercules frame from a shop in Moab, UT. Imagining my wife's ire at more bike stuff cluttering the living room stayed my hand.
02-20-16, 09:24 PM
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02-21-16, 11:50 AM
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02-21-16, 11:59 AM
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I'm good about passing up bikes in good condition. It's the messed up, un-ridable ones that get me every time. I just can't resist fixing nice old but neglected bikes. My wife can't really complain. Se has more "stuff" around than I do.
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