virginia12

Thanks

pastorbobnlnh 

Doubtful!

Also, if your Regina has two notches for removal it is probably from the '60s to early '70s. By the '80s all the Regina's had gone to a splined inner body.

BTW, I've had some luck occasionally transplanting an old Atom inner body into the outer Regina Corsa body in order to keep using the Regina sprockets.

Cougrrcj

Years ago, I had to replace a driveside spoke on my bottom-end Fuji Special Tourer. We tried the correct tool and breaker bar, but it wasn't gonna happen. Then we took the wheel to the shop , put the removal tool in the vise and two of us did the old 'bus steering wheel turn' technique - Other spokes started snapping. We waved the white flag, and was forced to buy a whole new wheel and freewheel.

big chainring 

Theres a Campy tool for removing Regina freewheels. I destroyed the notches on a Regina freewheel and took it to my local bike shop. They said a special Campy tool makes short order of removal. Didnt see the tool, but the freewheel came right off.

JohnDThompson 

This works, but you're likely to ruin the hub dustcap in the process. You might be able to pound it back into usable form after removing the freewheel, but it will be cosmetically compromised. But the freewheel will hide it in use.

JohnDThompson 

Probably the #704 tool:



But even this needs some of the remover slots to be intact. If the OP's freewheel is far gone, the EZ-Out method may be the best bet.

Metacortex

Not if you shorten the easy-out by 1/4" as described in the Schwinn service manual instructions I linked to.

rebalrid

Excellent thread this one . Getting an Irwin easy out next week . Damaged notch on a Regaina gold anodized fw

Jon T

Sounds like my Helicomatic system ain't so bad afterall. Take the retainer ring off with the bottle opener tool and the gear cluster practically falls off. It's really convenient when having to r&r a DS spoke.
Jon

79pmooney

I don't think I ever had a Regina FW. Started with a UO-8, then a Lambert which went SunTour early on, then raced a Fuji Pro and worked in a Fuji/Centurian/SunTour shop. Greased the FW threads with Phil and have never had issues getting them off. (Well, I have had to summon up more leverage and strength a few times. Legs and low gears win over this scrawny upper body.) Only having the first couple of cogs screw on is another feature I like.

Ben

Narhay

I brought my stuck freewheel to a city mechanic shop with air tools. At home I had been hanging off cheater bars and it wouldn't budge. I think I pulled a muscle doing it too.

Mechanic put a socket on his air gun, we held the wheel and it came off like butter.

RobbieTunes

I think even reading this thread has jinxed me.

Chombi1 

It has always been my Regina FWs that were hardest to remove from my wheelsets...ALWAYS!
So hard that I felt like I was going to break my ribs and rupture my lungs with all the force I had to exert to remove most of them. What is it with Reginas anyways????
Never the same problems with my Everest, Zeus, Maillard or Sachs FWs........
These days, every time I install a Regina FW on my wheels, it feels like I'm doing a permanent installation, because of this......just like a fixed cup??

63rickert

No one is going to believe this but I'll put it out there anyway. The freewheels that get stuck the worst are the ones greased the heaviest. They'll even cut new threads in the hub shell. Threads that fit real good. Regina is worst because it is best at cutting new threads. And in old days all the strongest riders were on Regina. Mount freewheels dry and you'll have fewer problems. No, the two pieces will not electro-weld themselves. Does not occur in this instance.

Regina with buggered slots goes to LBS. Always. DIY is fine, DIY to extremes is fine. Destroying irreplaceable relics because you can't ask for help?

madpogue 

Works if you have an LBS with staff old enough to have ever seen a two-slot Regina or Suntour freewheel. Uncommon (LBS so staffed, not the freewheel) these days.