Starting the OFFICIAL Steel club.
#1801
Senior Member
#1803
Senior Member
#1804
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: south of France
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Bikes: MBK mirage,PEUGEOT PSN10,PEUGEOT competition 7000,LA PERLE course, PEUGEOT pulse,L.AIMAR course
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and also the 49 D with TA chainrings as we can see on my L.AIMAR
#1805
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Two better picts of the 49D with TA chainrings...
#1807
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Florida
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Bikes: 1980 Motobecane Grand Jubilee
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I get the same thing alot when people see pics of my ride with the seat now adjusted for me. The pics posted here were upon delivery and before aligning the seat angle and adjusting for my long ass legs, LOL.
#1810
Senior Member
Is it worth it to get a custom steel bike or just get a bike Miyata, Peugeot etc off of craigslist? I'm thinking about building, restoring a steel bike.
#1811
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Florida
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Bikes: 1980 Motobecane Grand Jubilee
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Motobecanes are great bikes. Look on Ebay, you can often get great deals on bikes. Picked up My Grand Jubilee in mint condition for a song.
#1812
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 794
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
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1989 Schwinn Prologue with a mishmash of vintage and new components. Comes in at 20 lbs without pedals.
#1813
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,643
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
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If you're looking for quality vintage steel frames, look for:
* forged dropouts, not stamped
* butted tubing
* tubing stickers (Reynolds, Columbus, Tange, some others. Heirarchy of each maker's tubing can be found online)
Generally, go for the top-of-the-line models from known manufacturers. They'll have the best steel and you may be able to rebuild and re-use some of the components.
Get the type of bike suited for your riding. Racing bikes are always going to be fast and tire-limited. 80s/90s racing steel can be very light and still give a good ride.
Sport/touring bikes (most 80s 10speeds) are good all-rounders, fast but with provisions for racks and fenders. Good light tourers.
Quality 80s touring steel is excellent, there was a big touring bike boom right before mountain bikes showed up. People treat the Miyata 1000 and its brethren as holy grails, and there are lots of great tourers by all the Japanese makers.
On MTBs: Rigid steel MTB frames can make excellent touring/commuting bikes with some conversion. Again, go for high-end frames of their lightest steel. They'll still be strong enough for anything you load up/dish at them.
Just price it out. You can find top-end 80s/90s frames for under $200, and then spend a bunch on the build. Or you can buy modern steel and then cheap out the build. Soma, Rawland, Surly, Velo Orange, Gunnar, and others offer great, capable, versatile modern frames between $500 and $1000.
#1814
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,643
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
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As this is the official steel club thread, can anyone explain Reynolds 531 decals? It seems to have been around forever and with the many varieties of it, what exactly defines the best version? I've seen 531 decals on frames stating 'Reynolds 531 Frame Tubing' to 'Reynolds 531 Butted Tubes Fork & Stays'. Must the decal specifically state butted or plain gauge? And nowadays one can buy these decals on fleabay, do a repaint and who really knows what it is???
Their decals are usually pretty specific. The butted frames usually have the "531" at an angle.
Yes, you can get decals and fake a frame. That's why most folks stay away from re-painted bikes and they usually sell for much lower. There are vintage gurus on the C&V forum or Classic Rendezvous who can help you tell the difference between fake and authentic. Lug shapes, braze-ons, and other clues can unravel a mystery.
#1815
Senior Member
Thanks Tim. When I started riding I was just focused on getting a light aluminum with carbon fork. But I'm starting to really like the idea of riding an older steel frame. Will keep all of your advice in mind when looking for a bike suited for me needs. This thread is great, the bikes look fantastic.
#1816
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,643
Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)
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My lugged steel collection. '97 Rivendell (650b conversion), '97 Giordana, '88 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (townie build)
#1817
Aspiring Fred
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Kalifornia
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Bikes: 91 Alex Moulton Speed, Brompton P6L-X, 2014 Synapse Hi-Mod, Lemond Poprad, Wabi Lightning RE, Wabi Lightning SE
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Here's my dirty 91 Alex Moulton Speed. Just one of the steel barn finds in our shop.
#1818
I'm doing it wrong.
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#1819
Senior Member
Damn, won't be buying a Rivendell ever, just checked the prices for the frame. $2K. Ugh.
#1820
Old fart
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Yes, you can get decals and fake a [Reynolds 531] frame. That's why most folks stay away from re-painted bikes and they usually sell for much lower. There are vintage gurus on the C&V forum or Classic Rendezvous who can help you tell the difference between fake and authentic. Lug shapes, braze-ons, and other clues can unravel a mystery.
The steer tube is the most likely place to find this. Although the other tubes were also stamped, the stamps were often lost when the tubes were trimmed to build the frame.
#1821
a77impala
My latest buy, 2000 Zurich, I had removed the brifter to soak in WD 40, Reynolds tubing, carbon fork.
#1823
Senior Member
This is my favorite thread. Trolling Ebay and Craigs for lugged steel bikes!
What's your opinion on a Surly Pacer? Seem to be one of the few reasonably priced steel framesets I could find.
Or save up for a Soma Stanyan. Looks incredible. Love at first sight.
What's your opinion on a Surly Pacer? Seem to be one of the few reasonably priced steel framesets I could find.
Or save up for a Soma Stanyan. Looks incredible. Love at first sight.
Last edited by zymphad; 12-21-13 at 12:24 PM.
#1824
bill nyecycles
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my first road bike. picked it up last weekend. well technically i guess it's a cross bike, but whatever, i don't do cross just road
I've since ordered Shimano A530 pedals, and much better bottle cages. i'll post a new pic when i have it updated. in the meantime be excited for me!
I've since ordered Shimano A530 pedals, and much better bottle cages. i'll post a new pic when i have it updated. in the meantime be excited for me!
#1825
Senior Member
Nice, a Surly. That's on my list of bikes I'd like to choose from for my next build. Curious why did you not want brifters? The 105 brifters are best shifters I've ever used!