Rooney 

My friend gave me a few bikes to sell for him a few months back. I FINALLY wrapped this one up today. There were lots of little stumbles along the way, mostly waiting on parts. A bit small for me, but definitely a nice ride. The bottle cage seems more appropriate for a Nalgene or something similar, but the color match was so good with the decal that I couldn't not throw it on. The wheels have anodized nipples that also match, a nice little find. Should be a solid commuter for someone come spring. The frame is a Smoke Chrome finish that doesn't totally come across in these photos.

merziac

It needs a cheap pink bottle stuffed in there to complete the look.

bikemig 

I figured it was time to get my 1992 Trek 950 ready for some cold weather riding by installing a set of 26 x 1.9 Continental Winter Contact tires. They're not as good as studded tires for winter riding but they're fine all around tires for the in between season when the snow has largely melted but there are still patches of ice and snow to deal with.

curbtender

Had some single speed parts taken off road frames and needed to get them out of the way. Local had some frames up including this taller Felt. Not my thing but I'll give it a try.

Schweinhund

That green. Exceedingly hard to find that color.
Like the bike!

curbtender

I don't know, that English ivy gets into everything...

rossiny

trying these on my Paramount PDG40.
My new to me touring/gravel bike

ascherer 

The next winter project is a cleanup of the 72 PX10 that I got from Jon Vara, who got it from Noah Scape. It's got a great set of components, and Jon and I are of similar builds so I was able to ride it a few times without moving a thing and figured out how I want to tweak it. Mostly, I want wider bars and non-french pedals, probably SPDs because I want this to be a regular rider in the eastern Catskills. It's wearing a reasonable amount of crust so the first job is to pull everything off the frame and get cleaning & polishing.


Nice half hoods in great shape. I like rando bars but these are too narrow. I found a set of Olympiades in a better width in my bar bin.



Love me some Mafacs. Thanks to the magic of huge photos, as I write this post it's the first time I noted the Dia Compe hanger. I have Mafac hangers to use.



These Power Shifters are amazingly good, and look enough like the original Simplex Criterium shifters to get a pass.



With Jon's triplizer and more sprocket teeth than I can count this thing will pull stumps...


The rumors are true. The SLJ 6600 is one of the smoothest derailleurs I've ever used. It'll run this range as if it was a 14-18 corncob.



Similarly, the front handles that granny like a champ. I think I'll put a larger big ring on it, when I rode it I wanted a bit more top end. I think it's a half-step now but that setup never really did it for me.



Sorry, purists. I like modern shoes and cleats. I've left clips and straps on my Falcon. I'm not a total barbarian...





Overall the frame's in fine shape. No dents, the finish overall is solid as is the chrome. I'll clean treat the surface rust, check the alignment, compound, do some light touchups and wax liberally. Of course the components will be cleaned and polished. I didn't take pics of the wheelset, they're Weinamnn rims laced to Nuovo Tipo high-flange hubs with 35mm Rene Herse rubber. I expect this will take up a few more weekends, more to follow.

jdawginsc 

How are planning to treat the rust, Andy?

rossiny

how do you clean up the scratches. I have a Raleigh Super Course MK2 , that has the white paint scratched and small dimples..

jdawginsc 

Scratches don’t bother me much if the rust is gone. Problem with white is that there are a ton of shades of white... most are pretty much eliminated by a good polishing but toothpick touch up is one way.

ascherer 

If anyone has some go-to recommendations for rust or pain I'm all ears. I used a single application of Rustoleum gel brushed onto a few of the spots. Followed directions...didn't appear to do a thing. I'll go a few more rounds, I'm ok with slow and steady. If that still isn't effective I'll try a light rub with Barkeepers Friend. Ultimately it may need a soak in Evaporust. I have a couple of gallons on hand for just such an eventuality, and I'll have to build a frame for it to lie in.
Some of the scratched areas may remain scratched - it is what it is. This bike isn't a restoration, it's a rider and after 51 years it still looks pretty good in my estimation. I have a good eye for color so I'll mix up some enamels or nail polish. I read somewhere that Testors isn't being made/distributed any longer? I had good results with a blend I made of a couple of their whites on my 71 PX10 when I cleaned that up 10+ years ago. I'll see what I can find.

OTS 

ascherer
See this post for possible paint & touch up recommendations
White Peugeot Paint touchup
Flat white Rustoleum and Testors Model Master Insignia White 1745 SG Enamel were both mentioned.
The Testors no longer in production can be found on eBay

ascherer 

Thanks, I was looking for that thread.

steine13

I'm visiting my parents... great reason, mom's turning 79... and the $70 Specialized hybrid I picked up many years ago finally broke several spokes in back, so no more splicing one in and hoping for the best.

Time for stern measures.

Why spokes are so much cheaper in Deutschland i do not understand, but I'll take it. Twenty bucks shipped for new DT Swiss stainless spokes, nipples, rim tape (x2), and a patch kit. The rim and hub aren't great but ok for the few miles the kid rides on it when we visit together.

Zero bike/1 is a Cannondale tourer for me that takes most of the mileage.

cheers -mathias

r0ckh0und 

Removed these from a trashed wheelset that I picked up last weekend. Date code on rear axle nut was '69. Freewheel is a 5 speed Simplex

Positron400

maybe because it's close to where DT swiss (switzerland) has their manufacturing? Beats me - I did pay about 40 cents/spoke (Alpine III triple butted iirc) recently

VintageSteelEU

Not much of wrenching, really. Decided to clean a chainring I got for my "flagship" bicycle (when I decide on the frame I want to build it on). SR Royal Extra Super Light which was in a fairly decent shape to start with. Mechanically (threads, taper) absolutely perfect. Cosmetically, has some scuffs but not too bad. It was mostly clean, but decided to take it apart, remove few remaining bits of dirt and grit, check the bolts and grease them before putting everything back together.
This one weights 587g (vs. Velobase stated 545). The difference in weight might be down to three reasons: 1. chainring bolts are Sugino steel ones instead of titanium 2. smaller chainring is 48T, so a bit of a strange combination with the large one being 52T. 3. the crank bolt covers are steel, I think originally they were aluminium.
I will probably have to replace the chainring bolts anyway. They work, but are a bit of a mismatch, two inner nuts are for example shorter than the others. So now I'm thinking whether I should get some titanium ones. Never used those, so I'm on the fence with that. On one side, I wouldn't mind shaving off some weight, but how much would I really save? 10g per whole set? On the other side, steel ones are probably more reliable and most likely easier to remove in case they seize (though I tend to put a bit of grease on them to prevent that). Something to read about for sure.
I will most likely replace the smaller chainring with 42T. Firstly, I seldom use the small chainring at all. It's there as an option, really, in case I ever go riding in a more hilly area. Secondly, what's the point of having the small ring barely 4 teeth smaller than the big one? I guess will have to look for a matching 42T. This should also shave off some wight of the whole thing. Not that weight is crucial or really that important to me.
Dust caps might be the easy bit, I could go for SR plastic ones or some generic aluminium.

Still thinking whether I should perhaps polish it or leave it as is. Or maybe send it to be re-anodised in the same finish.

Bergz

I wanted some slim, cold forged crank arms for a project bike. Found a pair with seized pedals. Removed pedal bodies, cut spindles, ground spanner flats so could clamp in the vice.
. Was able to unscrew the crank arms off the pedal stubs, close inspection shows most of the threads went with them!😬


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ascherer 

Oops.

Mad Honk 

Andy,
There are always helicoils that you can use. Smiles, MH

Terfer944

A leonard vintage bike (around 1986 for what i know)

52telecaster

Running wire in my AD frameset that gugie modified. I ran a shift cable the length of the frame then soldered my wire to the cable and wala! Works beautifully.

The downtube end.

The chainstay end.

Brad L 

My best exploded view. I’m building this 1983 Colnago Super Profil for a friend. EVERYTHING was disassembled, cleaned, and polished. All I need to do is replace the tubes.

jdawginsc 

Holy poo that is nice.