Hondo6

It wasn't on this thread, but somewhere on the C&V Forum I seem to remember a BF member saying that they were seeking a 19T cog for a Regina freewheel. Unfortunately I can no longer remember the member's username or find the thread in question.

This eBay source seems to have quite a selection of Regina freewheel cogs. If you're looking for one, that could be a potential source if your usual sources don't pan out.

Disclaimer: I neither know the seller nor have I done business with him (he does have good ratings, though, and seems to have been around for a while). Posted here in case it might help someone.

Slowride79

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22446362387...mis&media=COPY

@raleigh76

Raleigh sports chain guard clamp

dukeofearl 

ISO: front 27" wheel with concave weinmann rims (to match a rear one with maillard helicomatic hub - but hub doesn't necessarily need to match) for an 80s motobecane grand touring

i have a 700c front wheel with weinmann concave rims and joytech hub if anyone wants to trade. i'd use it but the brakes don't reach.

also, if anyone wants to lend me a helicomatic freewheel removal tool, or sell for cheap, i'd like to remove the broken plastic freewheel guard thingy

**I'm in Philly

madpogue 

If you're REAL careful, you can GENTLY put a channel-lock pliers around that lock ring; it's not (well, it SHOULD not be) tightened down very tight.

What's your (general) location? Shipping wheels isn't cheap; members may prefer to meet / deliver.

mountaindave 

You need longer brakes... A rat tail file can elongate the ones you have if it's only a millimeter. Sooooo many more tire options in 700c and you get the bonus of fitting bigger tires!

mrv 

Hi Duke o' Fearl!
I got a bottle opener / freewheel removal tool plus a functional retainer ring plus a freewheel. You can see everything here: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ad-repair.html
I have the hub shell & parts as well, but I am / have decommissioned it due to the issue laid out in the post. It's still laced to the wheel. I was going to post the freewheel for sale soon - for cheap, as it is use. I got no idea how many more miles you could get out of it.
cheers!

VintageSteelEU

Got two Weinmann rims, concave, eyeletted (whichever model that was), but 700c. Also, whilst cosmetically they are fine, they would require some extra work on making them rounder.
As someone advised above, you could try brakes with longer reach. It's going to be something like 4-5x cheaper than replacing the wheels. Unless, of course, someone has the right wheels to trade on the forums.

dukeofearl 

will give that a try - gently! i'm in philly, post updated thanks

it's all original and in nice shape, so i was hoping to keep it that way, plus there's tons of room on this bike for larger tires, though i know there aren't a ton of options in 27. maybe i should make a separate thread for this bike

i might wanna buy that removal tool, if you're selling it separately. going to try the pliers first but don't want to damage anything. otherwise the freewheel is in good shape, just that dang plastic thing

madpogue 

Option - if you're not interested in preserving it, and especially if it's brittle, you could poke at the dork disc from the other side until it cracks into two or more pieces through the hole, then just yank the pieces off from behind. I've done that with other dork discs when I didn't have the right freewheel tool handy.

dukeofearl 

will try that! pliers did not work

smontanaro 

Most are full plastic, but some (Huret, in particular) have a metal center. Poking might not be sufficient...

madpogue 

The Helicotragic* disque du dorque is all plastic (and, when not yellowed/cloudy/cracked, rather stylish). Coincidentally (or not?), I've recently acquired two Sachs-Huret rear wheels with the plastic/metal combo disque, one of which has only the metal part remaining.


*(I kid, I kid... knock wood, I have a handful of these, and ride one regularly, so far without incident.)

prairiepedaler

Hey, how so??

RustyJames 

I haven’t mounted mine yet to test but they can be mounted top or bottom, delicate ratchet-action and the tensioning screw stays in place. Nice pieces of kit.

jdawginsc 

Ratcheting...good feel. Solid and sturdy. Never backshift. All metal. Every straight bar bike of mine gets them or one of the other quality Suntour ratcheting thumbies.

oneclick 

I have two italian fixed cups, one thick, one thin, I'll trade either one for a match to the other. These are in excellent condition, almost no wear visible in the ball races (one might actually be unused).

Iowegian

I have a 27" concave Weinmann rim laced to some sort of high-flange low-end Campy front hub (Tipo?). It seems OK but I didn't check it carefully. If you want to pay shipping from 80301 and you're willing to give me $10 for my time let me know and I'll get photos, etc.

dukeofearl 

thanks that's a nice offer. i'm only wondering if a high flange w a low flange rear would look off? let me mull that over and i'll be in touch!

sd5782 

I used a small strap wrench to remove the heliocomatic lock ring.

madpogue 

Good call; will probably grip better than a channel-lock, and much less likely to warp the lock ring.

Iniezione 

I’m wondering if anyone has leftover Gitane decals that they might be interested in parting with? I have a pair of TdF’s that only really need the seat tube foil decal, and maybe the top tube decal replaced. Figured I’d ask here before ordering either a whole set or trying to buy a partial set from one of the decal companies.

Unca_Sam

I'm looking specifically for the washer that is between the boss and the lever as I have the steel and plastic tension washer. Many levers use a brass washer there, but the ones I see on a different set are nylon. The washer is 0.5mm thick, with ID of 9.2 mm[to fit 9mm boss, and ~12mm od to sit inside the lever stop diameter. If anyone has .020" nylon shim material and a metric punch set, these could be fabricated as well. You can approximate the ID closely enough with a 3/8" punch, but the OD isn't close to a common size, and 1/2" is too large.

oneclick 

A worm-gear pipe clamp works a treat; tighten it up and grab the worm bit with an adjustable spanner.

madpogue 

Q: Why is a bottle opener incorporated into the Helicomatic lock ring tool?







A: Because they couldn't figure out a practical way to incorporate a corkscrew.

brockd15 

ISO a few things if anyone here happens to have them:

- FOUND Two nice condition downtube cable guides for barcons (or brifters)
- Nice nutted, mid-reach brakes in silver. Something like the Tektro r539 would be good, or single pivot (i.e. Suntour Superbe 4700) could work, too.
- Decaleur for use with a 1" headset
- FOUND Front rack to carry a rando bag.The kind that mounts to p-clampls or rack bosses, not canti studs.