I got a tax refund - which wheelset is the best bang for the buck?
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bill nyecycles
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Yes, Mavic CXP Elite is 622 x 15C, i.e., 15 mm internal width: CXP Elite | Mavic.
That does look pretty tight. What 25 mm tire is he running?
That does look pretty tight. What 25 mm tire is he running?
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#53
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again, thinking $40/tire range.
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Worse comes to worst, at least Panaracer Pasela Protites are available in 23 mm.
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Omg I think I’ve got a winner winner chicken dinner!!
grabbed a 700x25 vittoria rubino pro from a friend (which is what I was thinking of getting anyway) and here’s the results mounted on the Zondas:
the only caveat is I didn’t put any rim tape on because it was just a quick test fitting. I’m not sure that would add much extra lift.
which leads me to another question - looking at the inside of these rims - it doesn’t look like there’s any spoke ends like on a regular wheel that you need to put rim tape over to prevent unintentional tube poking. It’s smooth all the way around. Do I still need rim tape??
grabbed a 700x25 vittoria rubino pro from a friend (which is what I was thinking of getting anyway) and here’s the results mounted on the Zondas:
the only caveat is I didn’t put any rim tape on because it was just a quick test fitting. I’m not sure that would add much extra lift.
which leads me to another question - looking at the inside of these rims - it doesn’t look like there’s any spoke ends like on a regular wheel that you need to put rim tape over to prevent unintentional tube poking. It’s smooth all the way around. Do I still need rim tape??
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Most importantly, thank you for showing everyone in this thread that I was right!
the only caveat is I didn’t put any rim tape on because it was just a quick test fitting. I’m not sure that would add much extra lift.
which leads me to another question - looking at the inside of these rims - it doesn’t look like there’s any spoke ends like on a regular wheel that you need to put rim tape over to prevent unintentional tube poking. It’s smooth all the way around. Do I still need rim tape??
which leads me to another question - looking at the inside of these rims - it doesn’t look like there’s any spoke ends like on a regular wheel that you need to put rim tape over to prevent unintentional tube poking. It’s smooth all the way around. Do I still need rim tape??
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Congratulations, very nice! While the camera angles are different, it looks like you have more clearance than your friend running Mavic CPX Elite. Have you done the hex wrench clearance test?
Most importantly, thank you for showing everyone in this thread that I was right!
Campagnolo Zondas, like all decent wheels, are double walled. The spokes are attached to the outer wall, not the rim bed, so there are no spoke ends in the rim bed, only holes to access the bottom of the nipples. But these holes can also be eliminated by using a magnet to guide the nipples from the valve stem hole to the proper locations. So you do not need rim tape, especially if you are running inner tubes.
Most importantly, thank you for showing everyone in this thread that I was right!
Campagnolo Zondas, like all decent wheels, are double walled. The spokes are attached to the outer wall, not the rim bed, so there are no spoke ends in the rim bed, only holes to access the bottom of the nipples. But these holes can also be eliminated by using a magnet to guide the nipples from the valve stem hole to the proper locations. So you do not need rim tape, especially if you are running inner tubes.
Ok cool, good deal on not needing the rim tape. And yes, I am using tubes - not running tubeless on this.
Thanks immensely for your help - i love these wheels.
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It’s my opinion that you should run rim tape (or plugs, like Velocity VeloPlugs) with those kinds of rims, especially for higher pressure road applications. The tube can bulge into the holes, the edges of which can abrade and cut the tube, obviously causing a flat.
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Yes, agreed. My advice above applies solely to a rim bed with only a single hole for a valve stem. If there are additional holes for accessing the bottom of the nipples, rim tape should be used. the sci guy bought his wheels brand new and so presumably rim tape would have been installed if needed.
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#62
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haha they’re for my current build project. It’s just a frame right now - the fork isn’t even in, so there’s nothing to ride!
BUT
I did mount my new tires today with tubes and put the rear one on the bike again to reaffirm it fit with the tires I picked out and it’s still good to go and I am so excite!
BUT
I did mount my new tires today with tubes and put the rear one on the bike again to reaffirm it fit with the tires I picked out and it’s still good to go and I am so excite!
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How does one build up a wheelset if there are no holes to put the nipples in? I was looking at buying some rims to lace up to frames I already have and one place had the option of rims with or without nipple holes. I got very confused. The hole-less would be interesting if I ever wanted to go tubeless down the road, but I can't see how I'd get the nipples to the holes.
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How does one build up a wheelset if there are no holes to put the nipples in? I was looking at buying some rims to lace up to frames I already have and one place had the option of rims with or without nipple holes. I got very confused. The hole-less would be interesting if I ever wanted to go tubeless down the road, but I can't see how I'd get the nipples to the holes.
Unless you have Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels with fore drilling, so that the nipples screw in from the top of the rim's outer wall.
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Wow, that looks like a PITA. I had thought a whole free rim would be better for future-proofing a build (no current plans to go tubeless), but that sounds like too much work for something I may never do (and could just buy tubeless tap for and pull off the Capton tape if I ever wanted to go that way.
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Wow, that looks like a PITA. I had thought a whole free rim would be better for future-proofing a build (no current plans to go tubeless), but that sounds like too much work for something I may never do (and could just buy tubeless tap for and pull off the Capton tape if I ever wanted to go that way.
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Fair enough, I 'd want to use longer nipples than I usually do to try to get a better purchase on them. I'm just clumsy and have lost nipple in a traditional rim, so I'm just imagining losing hold of one in this rim and trying to get it out. Probably not harder to get it out, but easier for me to lose it in the first place without the nipple driver to push down on it as I first thread the spoke in (and also do do the first x number of turns in all the nipples). I do like the simplicity of not having to faff about with tape (or worrying about tape shifting or going too high up on the walls or...).
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