JacobLee 

Purty!

JacobLee 

I figured out the size of the binder bolt.

JacobLee 

Cool sticker. Too bad it’s toast.

JacobLee 

A happy new year.

bertinjim 

JacobLee-

The seat binder bolt is the old, British Whitworth standard which is why you ended up with the adjustable. They're available on EBay. The seat tube decal is reproduced, such as the one linked to at Velocals here: https://velocals.com/carlton-head-badge-decal/. It's also available in a UV resistant version for non--clear coated applications like yours.

JacobLee 

Thank you for the link! That sticker might be the one cosmetic fix I do, other than some polish. I really like the patina on this frame, but I think I might have to replace that sticker.

JacobLee 

I wonder if this is intentional, or just sloppy ownership? It’s a broken off pump peg clamp placed so that the rear der cable sits closer to the frame. Any ideas?

desconhecido 

That binder bolt is probably the only hex on your bicycle that size. Same size as the stem clamp binder on Raleigh Sports, but you have a GB stem. I have a 1/2" open end that I filed to fit and painted the end red. The "Raleigh Wrench." Problem I have with an adjustable on that bolt is that there isn't a lot of angle to use the wrench and it's hard to line up with the flats.

I just went out and looked on two bikes I have that use the Campagnolo cable guide like yours--Moto Grand Record and a 74 International. I see no reason why the cable path should need to be brought closer to the tube or angled down. Perhaps there was something idiosyncratic about the owner that the cable path presented some rare issue. Or maybe the guide was mispositioned resulting in that long scratch on the downtube and the extra clamp was to address that rather than properly placing the guide. That re-route sure won't make the shifting any crisper and if you opt for bar end shifters like the old Suntour ratcheting or the springy Shimano friction shifters (which work very well -- as good as the old Suntours, for me) you wouldn't want the extra drag, I'd think.

DiegoFrogs

It may have been to keep the cable from flopping out of the cable guide if all of the cable's tension was released + a lot of slack.

I'd definitely remove it.

JacobLee 

Thanks for the info and advice! The story goes that the original owner rode this bike across the country on the 1976 Bikecentennial route, so maybe this was some sort of desperate fix in the middle of nowhere. The right crank arm is also heavily worn by the toe clip strap, so maybe the guy had a weird right foot and it was snagging things.

The Wikipedia page on the old Whitworth bolt standard is fascinating. I think I understood that they labeled the wrenches to coincide with the size of the bolt, not the size of the hex head. Makes sense, I think.

JacobLee 

CLM (PO’s initials engraved in downtube) must have had a big right foot




The offending strap:




One Brooks, one Christophe.

JacobLee 

It’s cleaning up nice!

JacobLee 

A couple of what looked like scratches turned out to be paint streaks, like it had rubbed up against other bikes. They came off with a little scrubbing, and a little wax helped bring some shine back.

repechage

Snap-on makes the correct sized spanner.

repechage

My editorial comment. The cranks wear to me is the sign to retire them. Way Way back the Campagnolo cranks that came to the shop broken apart all exhibited this wear and fractured at the region of most wear. Some more worn, some not.
Replacement arms are not that expensive. Alternately, you could set the toe clips a bit more outboard, gamble. I would reference crack check dye in that case as used in the aircraft industry, aircraftspruce.com

JacobLee 

I found this one in an estate sale grab bag, but it’s not much better than crescent:




It seems like a different binder bolt is the reasonable solution.

JacobLee 

I agree. I’ll probably get this all cleaned up, put it back together, ride it a few times, then make a bunch of changes. I really do like a triple crank, and I have one of those Suginos that everybody uses on the Rivendel type stuff, so I’ll probably use that.

Thanks for the caution! The amount of input I’ve received from this forum is invaluable.

Narhay

Shined up very nicely. Mine is a 1975.

repechage

Note to the Internationalist's out there, the earlier Lime green bikes used a cast bottom bracket shell, much more stout than the later bulge formed units.

HLloyds in the UK may have the seat tube herald in a varnish fix or waterslide version, vs sticker. GusSalmon might have done these too.

JacobLee 

I couldn’t figure out at first why the last three digits of his social security number looked different from the others, but I get it now: His engraver hit chrome for the last three!

flyinfscotsman

Great color.

JacobLee 

Finally, I’m in the last stages of re-assembly! I picked up some new brake pads, along with cables, etc, forgetting that I was going to have to fuss with a 700c wheel swap. I found the bike with two fronts, but no rear wheel, so I’m using a set from craigslist with the correct hubs, but Open Pro rims. I’m sure lots of folks have been through this process, but I eventually ended up using a set of cyclocross canti pad holders that take road size pads and have a big set of avid style shims. I took some pics with cardboard in the background so you could see the alignment.

These are the sunlight pads. Nope!



These are the originals. Nope!



Jagwire cross holders. Nice!



They weren’t cheap, but they sure seem like a nice solution.

jackbombay

Modern pads don't work too well with the weinmann 750 brakes, the brake bridge being so high on this era Raleigh certainly makes things worse. My alignment issues on my 72' Super Course are not as bad as yours, but I do wish the pads were a 1/4" thicker to keep the arms of the brake parallel when the brake is not engaged. The Jagwire holders make the brake geometry look correct!

repechage

Better, but you are cheating. the dimension on the last image shows a pad/holder with much more dimension from the inside of the caliper arm to the rim.
Of course the caliper will look better when the pads are in contact with the rim.

The pads in the first image with black pads are upside down.

jackbombay

Thats the point, the geometry of the Weinmann brakes was designed with much thicker brake pads in mind that is typical today, so adding more dimension to the brake pads makes the brakes look better because they were designed with that extra dimension in mind.