ISO and for trade thread part 5
#6351
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Looking for a clamp for these:
Suntour Superbe / Sprint top mounted power shifters
The frame I want them on doesn't have braze-on shifter bosses. I don't mind actually mounting them using the gizmo they are on, but I think I'd rather have them mounted the usual way, using a standard clamp. As last resort, I can get shifter bosses brazed on the downtube, but I think I'd rather just use a standard clamp. From what I can see, clamp from chunky power shifters is not going to work, nor one made for Vx shifters. It has to be a kind of clamp where the shifter limiting bosses / cable guides can be removed. I think Cyclone paint-stripper clamp could be a good candidate, maybe some others. I have some stuff for trade, depending what you might need.
Suntour Superbe / Sprint top mounted power shifters
The frame I want them on doesn't have braze-on shifter bosses. I don't mind actually mounting them using the gizmo they are on, but I think I'd rather have them mounted the usual way, using a standard clamp. As last resort, I can get shifter bosses brazed on the downtube, but I think I'd rather just use a standard clamp. From what I can see, clamp from chunky power shifters is not going to work, nor one made for Vx shifters. It has to be a kind of clamp where the shifter limiting bosses / cable guides can be removed. I think Cyclone paint-stripper clamp could be a good candidate, maybe some others. I have some stuff for trade, depending what you might need.
#6352
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Whoo-hoo! It has found a good home.
Going to try it this way. This is a nice frame in very good condition in a beautiful color. It's essentially my size, but despite being pretty cool, I'm just not going to get to it.
It's a 1996 Schwinn Passage. Seat tube is 21" ctt, Seat tube extends an additional inch beyond that. Top tube is 22"" ctc. Rear spacing is 130mm. It comes with what you see here. Headset and Bottom bracket both need service, and the seatpost clamp is missing.
I've tried to sell it for $35.00 plus shipping, but it remains here. I'm open to trades. I'm not limiting myself to this, but a pair of decent, alloy 700c or 27" wheels or rims (36 hole please) could make this yours. This is just an example. Other things I could use are a front rando bag, a front rack, bottle cages, 27" tanwalls, goatskin or elk leather suitable for making bar covering, derelict Brooks (or similar) saddles, an orbital sander, an engraving tool, a few 2 gallon plastic planters, a mask with filters (yes I am flexible). Someone, please, make me an offer. I'm eager to see this (and one of my larger boxes) gone to a better place.
Going to try it this way. This is a nice frame in very good condition in a beautiful color. It's essentially my size, but despite being pretty cool, I'm just not going to get to it.
It's a 1996 Schwinn Passage. Seat tube is 21" ctt, Seat tube extends an additional inch beyond that. Top tube is 22"" ctc. Rear spacing is 130mm. It comes with what you see here. Headset and Bottom bracket both need service, and the seatpost clamp is missing.
I've tried to sell it for $35.00 plus shipping, but it remains here. I'm open to trades. I'm not limiting myself to this, but a pair of decent, alloy 700c or 27" wheels or rims (36 hole please) could make this yours. This is just an example. Other things I could use are a front rando bag, a front rack, bottle cages, 27" tanwalls, goatskin or elk leather suitable for making bar covering, derelict Brooks (or similar) saddles, an orbital sander, an engraving tool, a few 2 gallon plastic planters, a mask with filters (yes I am flexible). Someone, please, make me an offer. I'm eager to see this (and one of my larger boxes) gone to a better place.
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Last edited by USAZorro; 02-06-24 at 03:51 PM.
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#6354
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ISO: Raleigh or Raleigh subsidiary lugged crown 27" wheel fork. Need at least 190mm steer tube. Prefer 27.0mm crown race. If I can't find a Raleigh or Carlton fork anything decent will do, probably. This is for a freebie new acquisition Super Course Mk II which will get all the components from my 1951 Rudge Aero Clubman which is just a bit too small.
Please PM me if you have a fork that may work. It's difficult to keep up with this thread, it's so active!
UPDATE: Found a fork!
Thanks all!
Phil
Please PM me if you have a fork that may work. It's difficult to keep up with this thread, it's so active!
UPDATE: Found a fork!
Thanks all!
Phil
Last edited by PhilFo; 02-08-24 at 09:31 PM.
#6355
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ISO: Raleigh or Raleigh subsidiary lugged crown 27" wheel fork. Need at least 190mm steer tube. Prefer 27.0mm crown race. If I can't find a Raleigh or Carlton fork anything decent will do, probably. This is for a freebie new acquisition Super Course Mk II which will get all the components from my 1951 Rudge Aero Clubman which is just a bit too small.
Please PM me if you have a fork that may work. It's difficult to keep up with this thread, it's so active!
Thanks all!
Phil
Please PM me if you have a fork that may work. It's difficult to keep up with this thread, it's so active!
Thanks all!
Phil
#6357
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FOUND ONE! ISO Simplex SLJ5000 RD part.
Found one, thanks all.
I just acquired a very clean and tight 1st Design SLJ5000 RD but the tab on the tension plate where it sits against the hanger has been broken off so I'm in need of a replacement. I'd prefer just that piece but I'd take a complete derailleur if you have one that's worn out, rusty, mangled and nly good for parts as long as that piece is in good condition. I don't want to part out a decent functional derailleur just to make this one whole.... yet. TIA.
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Last edited by Murray Missile; 02-12-24 at 05:18 AM. Reason: Part located.
#6358
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I just acquired a very clean and tight 1st Design SLJ5000 RD but the tab on the tension plate where it sits against the hanger has been broken off so I'm in need of a replacement. I'd prefer just that piece but I'd take a complete derailleur if you have one that's worn out, rusty, mangled and nly good for parts as long as that piece is in good condition. I don't want to part out a decent functional derailleur just to make this one whole.... yet. TIA.
#6359
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Simplex SLJ5000 RD part 3557
I just acquired a very clean and tight 1st Design SLJ5000 RD but the tab on the tension plate where it sits against the hanger has been broken off so I'm in need of a replacement. I'd prefer just that piece but I'd take a complete derailleur if you have one that's worn out, rusty, mangled and nly good for parts as long as that piece is in good condition. I don't want to part out a decent functional derailleur just to make this one whole.... yet. TIA.
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#6360
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I don't have the plate you're looking for, but I do have one NOS black aluminum nut (?) thing that fits into the plate. The flat is prone to rounding off, it's not ovious how to remove the rear derailleur and if you think it's like a Campanlo SR you will ruin this part. These are very hard to find! $25 shipped in the 48 states. Jim Merz
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#6361
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ISO: Suntour Superbe Pro drive side crank. 165mm arm, 130BCD strongly preferred. I'm willing to buy a whole crankset for the drive side only. Also willing to use a Sugino version of the Superbe Pro: AP130. Suntour Sprint 165mm with 130BCD would work also. The crankarm length is the important part.
Many thanks all!
Phil
Many thanks all!
Phil
Last edited by PhilFo; 02-21-24 at 04:59 PM.
#6362
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I have a relatively pristine chromed steel rear rim that's laced to a Sturmey Archer AW hub shell. What I'm lacking is the business part of the hub. I have a more modern RSF hub that's not laced to anything, but even if it would fit (which I am skeptical of), I do not thing that's the ideal thing to transplant into this "shell". I don't even have a frame in mind at this point, but as I have a matching front rim, and a suitable hub for that, I am thinking, "why not see if I can locate something that would be usable?" I am far from an expert on this technology, but I am thinking that, while the shell says AW, an AM, FM, FW or possibly other internals would work.
This is far from an urgent request, but I am thinking that at some point in the future, I may want to spiff up a three speed with "appropriate" parts, and the wheel set could be a significant part of the endeavor. If you have such an item gathering dust, and would be inclined to make a trade, I'd be quite open to it and grateful for it.
edit: If you happen to have a complete AW, AM, FW or FM and would be interested in a trade, I'm certainly open to that as well.
TIA
This is far from an urgent request, but I am thinking that at some point in the future, I may want to spiff up a three speed with "appropriate" parts, and the wheel set could be a significant part of the endeavor. If you have such an item gathering dust, and would be inclined to make a trade, I'd be quite open to it and grateful for it.
edit: If you happen to have a complete AW, AM, FW or FM and would be interested in a trade, I'm certainly open to that as well.
TIA
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Last edited by USAZorro; 02-17-24 at 02:39 PM. Reason: additional information
#6363
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RSX hubs no longer needed. Thanks.
Took the path of least reistance and went a different route. Thanks.
Last edited by Murray Missile; 02-20-24 at 05:28 AM. Reason: Went different route.
#6364
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I need a set of Shimano RSX 36 hole hubs, all I can find in the Western Hemishpere are 32h. A 7 speed freehub is a plus, believe it or not, but an 8 will do just as well. They don't have to be show quality just presentable with a little spit shine. For the rear I can get by with just the shell if need be, I have a 32h I can cannibalize but the front needs to be complete.
Also, there are almost no differences between Shimano hubs of the era in terms of shape. Finish might be different (this one is polished anyway), locknuts might be differently shaped and I guess they might be using slightly different materials, but my suspicion is they were churning them all out from a single production line and then just changing finish and some hardware and putting them in different boxes. Put in decent grade bearing balls and Bob's your uncle
#6365
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I have a front Shimano 36H from the era, but not RSX. Exage 500EX, if I remember correctly. Decent hub.
Also, there are almost no differences between Shimano hubs of the era in terms of shape. Finish might be different (this one is polished anyway), locknuts might be differently shaped and I guess they might be using slightly different materials, but my suspicion is they were churning them all out from a single production line and then just changing finish and some hardware and putting them in different boxes. Put in decent grade bearing balls and Bob's your uncle
Also, there are almost no differences between Shimano hubs of the era in terms of shape. Finish might be different (this one is polished anyway), locknuts might be differently shaped and I guess they might be using slightly different materials, but my suspicion is they were churning them all out from a single production line and then just changing finish and some hardware and putting them in different boxes. Put in decent grade bearing balls and Bob's your uncle
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#6366
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Yeah, you're pretty much on point, wihtout the stickers it's hard to tell the difference on a lot of them BUT "if" I can find a set of RSX with original labels that would be great. If I can't then I'll go for the next best thing. I'll keep yours in mind if I don't come up with a set soon. Thanks.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#6367
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WTT or buy, COLNAGO FORK
My chrome colnago fork is .5cm to short for the stack. I've already attempted using a PISTA set (33 vs 37) and its still too short.
I don't care if its chrome or painted.
Thanks
I don't care if its chrome or painted.
Thanks
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#6368
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Actually if I found a set of wheels with RSX and the "right" set of rims I'd consider that too. I have a Guerciotti I need to build a set of wheels for and the Campy Super Record hubs I have for it are also 36 hole. In fact I originally bought the rims for it but they clashed horribly with the blue on it, I decided I rather have more traditional polished rims for it anyway.
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#6369
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That and milling 1mm off top and bottom of head tube, if that much is still available, might get you there with the existing fork.
Then again, just because something can be done doesn’t mean it should be done. The effect of lowering the front end by 4-5mm should be considered, but worse indignities have been inflicted upon classic frames to keep them in the fray.
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Actually if I found a set of wheels with RSX and the "right" set of rims I'd consider that too. I have a Guerciotti I need to build a set of wheels for and the Campy Super Record hubs I have for it are also 36 hole. In fact I originally bought the rims for it but they clashed horribly with the blue on it, I decided I rather have more traditional polished rims for it anyway.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#6371
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I wouldn't mill the head tube, but then again, I don't have the workshop to do something like that precisely. Can't imagine having a go at it with a file would be a good idea
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Is having your steerer tube lengthened out of the question? I would think any good framebuilder could do it without messing with the joint at the fork crown.
#6373
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WTB/Trade for women's Avocet saddle in good condition. I finally found a bike my daughter likes and rides, but don't want to break the bank as we trial-and-error saddles. Have multiple decent condition San Marco Regals (men's/white) available for trade, or PayPal if the price is right. Thanks!
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#6374
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"...women's Avocet saddle in good condition" do you have a particular model in mind (Touring, R1 or R2) leather or Spandex cover?
I might have one but will have to look thru the old bin
I might have one but will have to look thru the old bin
#6375
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Right now I'm making arrangements for a W1 touring model, but depending on results I may want to try a road version. Leather preferred. If you happen to run across one do let me know. Thanks!
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera