Show Your Miyata 1000!
05-14-22, 01:48 PM
#201
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I have a Miyata 1000 frame and fork and I need to buy a bottom bracket for it. The rear dropouts are 126mm, and the bottom bracket shell is 68mm. It was origionally a 15 speed set-up (1983 or 1984ish), and I am happy to keep it that way. When I ask about the correct bottom bracket overall axle length and length on the drive and non-drive side - the answer is always "it depends upon the crankset".
I do have a Shimano Deore triple (#1 choice) that I could use, or I could use a Sakae SX double in a pinch.
I intend to keep it as a 5 or 6 speed rear.
It came to me with a Suntour VX(?) bottom bracket that was adjustable left and right. It lacked both lockrings, was stuck, and had to be destructivly removed. I'm not sure that this was the origininal BB or a replacement, and I am not sure that the set-up as found was correct. In any case that is gone now.
What I found was an axle that was 117-117.5 mm in length.
The end of the axle on the drive side was 30mm from the shell.
The end of the axle on th non-drive side was18.5mm from the shell.
Any suggestions?
I do have a Shimano Deore triple (#1 choice) that I could use, or I could use a Sakae SX double in a pinch.
I intend to keep it as a 5 or 6 speed rear.
It came to me with a Suntour VX(?) bottom bracket that was adjustable left and right. It lacked both lockrings, was stuck, and had to be destructivly removed. I'm not sure that this was the origininal BB or a replacement, and I am not sure that the set-up as found was correct. In any case that is gone now.
What I found was an axle that was 117-117.5 mm in length.
The end of the axle on the drive side was 30mm from the shell.
The end of the axle on th non-drive side was18.5mm from the shell.
Any suggestions?
05-14-22, 02:27 PM
#202
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 253
Bikes: Bike Friday PRP, Bike Friday NWT, Bromton M6R, 1991 Miyata 914, 1991 Miyata 1000, 1986 Raleigh Portage, many more frames
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I have a Miyata 1000 frame and fork and I need to buy a bottom bracket for it. The rear dropouts are 126mm, and the bottom bracket shell is 68mm. It was origionally a 15 speed set-up (1983 or 1984ish), and I am happy to keep it that way. When I ask about the correct bottom bracket overall axle length and length on the drive and non-drive side - the answer is always "it depends upon the crankset".
I do have a Shimano Deore triple (#1 choice) that I could use, or I could use a Sakae SX double in a pinch.
I intend to keep it as a 5 or 6 speed rear.
It came to me with a Suntour VX(?) bottom bracket that was adjustable left and right. It lacked both lockrings, was stuck, and had to be destructivly removed. I'm not sure that this was the origininal BB or a replacement, and I am not sure that the set-up as found was correct. In any case that is gone now.
What I found was an axle that was 117-117.5 mm in length.
The end of the axle on the drive side was 30mm from the shell.
The end of the axle on th non-drive side was18.5mm from the shell.
Any suggestions?
I do have a Shimano Deore triple (#1 choice) that I could use, or I could use a Sakae SX double in a pinch.
I intend to keep it as a 5 or 6 speed rear.
It came to me with a Suntour VX(?) bottom bracket that was adjustable left and right. It lacked both lockrings, was stuck, and had to be destructivly removed. I'm not sure that this was the origininal BB or a replacement, and I am not sure that the set-up as found was correct. In any case that is gone now.
What I found was an axle that was 117-117.5 mm in length.
The end of the axle on the drive side was 30mm from the shell.
The end of the axle on th non-drive side was18.5mm from the shell.
Any suggestions?
05-14-22, 02:51 PM
#204
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 253
Bikes: Bike Friday PRP, Bike Friday NWT, Bromton M6R, 1991 Miyata 914, 1991 Miyata 1000, 1986 Raleigh Portage, many more frames
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05-14-22, 03:13 PM
#205
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Location: Maryland
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Doh - Homer emoji here. That is what the Suntour bottom bracket was all about, an adjustable bottom bracket and no fixed cup, just lockrings on both sides with sealed bearings. That was another good design from Suntour.
But the spacers (looked like cups for a conventional bb) were aluminum or some other similar alloy and bonded to the bottom bracket shell after time. Why? I can think of at least two reasons.
1. Ignoring the possibillity that different metals may bond.
2. Not using an agent (grease or anti seize) in assembly.
But the spacers (looked like cups for a conventional bb) were aluminum or some other similar alloy and bonded to the bottom bracket shell after time. Why? I can think of at least two reasons.
1. Ignoring the possibillity that different metals may bond.
2. Not using an agent (grease or anti seize) in assembly.
Last edited by dweenk; 05-14-22 at 03:33 PM.
05-23-22, 12:26 PM
#206
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Location: Maryland
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Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
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I have one of those Miyata 1000 frames from around 1983 that was painted in a deep blue, almost going toward violet - you can see photos of the color I speak about on this forum. Anyone know of a matching paint or nail polish color? Like this one. Not mine - the paint is in worse condition on mine.
I am tempted to polish it and leave the patina. Got the right sized seatpost on Sunday, and now I have it in the stand. I'm still waiting on the bottom bracket.
I am tempted to polish it and leave the patina. Got the right sized seatpost on Sunday, and now I have it in the stand. I'm still waiting on the bottom bracket.
05-23-22, 03:37 PM
#207
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Location: Maryland
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Test fitting a triple with the new bottom bracket (Sunlight/Tange SL26). Looks OK. Oh, the clamping bolt for the seatpost is weird. It requires two tools, a big a** screwdriver on one side and an allen wrench on the other. Right now I am using a quick release from a mountain bike or cruiser.
Last edited by dweenk; 05-23-22 at 04:02 PM.
06-14-22, 12:24 PM
#208
Junior Member
Sold for $380 in Montreal, I found the sold listing by accident and couldn't believe that I missed it. The worst part is that it was sold as Miyata « One Tousend » and I guess it never appeared in my searches and I have only seen one Miyata which was written One Thousand instead of 1000 until this thread.
10-07-22, 08:58 PM
#209
Newbie
Here is my 1987 Miyata 1000LT, in nearly final form. It is replacing my ‘83 Expedition, which was 56cm and just a bit too big.
This 53cm beauty is PERFECT.
This 53cm beauty is PERFECT.
Likes For mattia76:
10-07-22, 10:05 PM
#210
Banned.
10-08-22, 10:00 AM
#211
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Georgia
Posts: 40
Bikes: Chiorda, Gitane, Trek 420, Trek 410, Trek 920, Trek 1100, Miyata One Thousand, Bridgestone XO-4
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Hello
Thanks for the message. These are from DIRT Research. Unfortunately there is no other name or number on them. I bought them online years ago. Have been on and off a couple of bikes. I really like them.
I wish I could give you more information.
Thanks for the message. These are from DIRT Research. Unfortunately there is no other name or number on them. I bought them online years ago. Have been on and off a couple of bikes. I really like them.
I wish I could give you more information.
08-09-23, 09:05 PM
#212
Newbie
Update
Finally got everything dialed in just right with my 1987 1000LT.
I now call him FaramirBike: Captain of Ithlien.
I was looking for one for YEARS when this popped up in the local Marketplace, in my perfect 53cm size. It came to me CHERRY, clean, barely ridden, and bone-stalk to the point that it still had the original foam handlebars. I really dig the shiny black wheel interiors.
I have kept the original Shimano 600 group all around, but moved the shifters to the bar-ends. I was able to keep the same shifters using an adapter that Rivendell sells.. Also the Deore XT derailleurs and the Biopace chain rings.
What I have added and changed:
-Nitto Albastache bars. I’ve never been one for drops, but these have always agreed with me.
-Black and yellow cork tape. Super comfy.
- Dia-Compe dummy levers for more grip options.
-Portland Design Works Alexander Graham Bell
-Nitto Dirtdrop stem
-Brooks B67 saddle
-MKS Monarch Pedals
-Rene Hearse Bon Jon Pass 35 tires
-Nitto Campee Large rear rack
-VO Moderniste bottle cage
-Sackville Bag
I now call him FaramirBike: Captain of Ithlien.
I was looking for one for YEARS when this popped up in the local Marketplace, in my perfect 53cm size. It came to me CHERRY, clean, barely ridden, and bone-stalk to the point that it still had the original foam handlebars. I really dig the shiny black wheel interiors.
I have kept the original Shimano 600 group all around, but moved the shifters to the bar-ends. I was able to keep the same shifters using an adapter that Rivendell sells.. Also the Deore XT derailleurs and the Biopace chain rings.
What I have added and changed:
-Nitto Albastache bars. I’ve never been one for drops, but these have always agreed with me.
-Black and yellow cork tape. Super comfy.
- Dia-Compe dummy levers for more grip options.
-Portland Design Works Alexander Graham Bell
-Nitto Dirtdrop stem
-Brooks B67 saddle
-MKS Monarch Pedals
-Rene Hearse Bon Jon Pass 35 tires
-Nitto Campee Large rear rack
-VO Moderniste bottle cage
-Sackville Bag
Likes For mattia76:
08-24-23, 05:04 PM
#213
Newbie
A surprise encounter when I went out for a ride yesterday.
Mine is the cooler one.
Mine is the cooler one.
Likes For jameskm:
08-24-23, 05:11 PM
#214
Newbie
Finally got everything dialed in just right with my 1987 1000LT.
I now call him FaramirBike: Captain of Ithlien.
I was looking for one for YEARS when this popped up in the local Marketplace, in my perfect 53cm size. It came to me CHERRY, clean, barely ridden, and bone-stalk to the point that it still had the original foam handlebars. I really dig the shiny black wheel interiors.
I have kept the original Shimano 600 group all around, but moved the shifters to the bar-ends. I was able to keep the same shifters using an adapter that Rivendell sells.. Also the Deore XT derailleurs and the Biopace chain rings.
What I have added and changed:
-Nitto Albastache bars. I’ve never been one for drops, but these have always agreed with me.
-Black and yellow cork tape. Super comfy.
- Dia-Compe dummy levers for more grip options.
-Portland Design Works Alexander Graham Bell
-Nitto Dirtdrop stem
-Brooks B67 saddle
-MKS Monarch Pedals
-Rene Hearse Bon Jon Pass 35 tires
-Nitto Campee Large rear rack
-VO Moderniste bottle cage
-Sackville Bag
I now call him FaramirBike: Captain of Ithlien.
I was looking for one for YEARS when this popped up in the local Marketplace, in my perfect 53cm size. It came to me CHERRY, clean, barely ridden, and bone-stalk to the point that it still had the original foam handlebars. I really dig the shiny black wheel interiors.
I have kept the original Shimano 600 group all around, but moved the shifters to the bar-ends. I was able to keep the same shifters using an adapter that Rivendell sells.. Also the Deore XT derailleurs and the Biopace chain rings.
What I have added and changed:
-Nitto Albastache bars. I’ve never been one for drops, but these have always agreed with me.
-Black and yellow cork tape. Super comfy.
- Dia-Compe dummy levers for more grip options.
-Portland Design Works Alexander Graham Bell
-Nitto Dirtdrop stem
-Brooks B67 saddle
-MKS Monarch Pedals
-Rene Hearse Bon Jon Pass 35 tires
-Nitto Campee Large rear rack
-VO Moderniste bottle cage
-Sackville Bag
Likes For jameskm:
10-23-23, 05:33 PM
#216
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: PA cycling central
Posts: 8
Bikes: n+1 please - a list of 20-ish, everything from a 1951 Schwinn to a 2019 Lynskey GR270, many 1970s Schwinns, road, dirt, mtn, CX, SS, casual, folder, and a '66 Schwinn Twinn violet
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Excellent tape - really pops with the stickers!
04-10-24, 08:17 PM
#217
Newbie
This is a bike being refurbished at the local co-op, I think the serial number indicates a 1990 build date. Just curious if anyone knows anything about this fork? I don't believe it would come from the factory with it?
imgur[DOT]com/a/y1vL8zn
I can't post links here, which seems silly. I think that might work if you delete the "dot"
imgur[DOT]com/a/y1vL8zn
I can't post links here, which seems silly. I think that might work if you delete the "dot"
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